- Author: Shannon Wolfe
First, I want to say that I have never had an infestation of carpenter bees. I just enjoy seeing them in my front yard. If my home or any of my fences were suffering from an infestation of carpenter bees, I might have to rescind this post. If you think you might have an infestation of carpenter bees, please check out this link.
I think most, if not all, home gardeners have heard about the plight of the honeybees in the past few years. But did you know that there are most than 25,000 species of bees around the world? The United States is home to about 4,000 species. Both honey bees and bumble bees (family Apidae) are what are called "social" bees - meaning that they create colonies (hives) and work as a team. I was surprised to learn during my training to become a Contra Costa County Master Gardener that most native bees are solitary bees - I did not know that any bees were solitary! Carpenter bees fall into this category - a solitary bee.
Just because carpenter bees are solitary and do not belong to a colony does not mean that they are not good pollinators. The carpenter bees that I see most often are buzzing around my front yard - specifically around the Hot Lips Sage that grows in the front corner of my front yard
Now, you might wonder, why are these bees called carpenter bees?They make their nests in old wood - in fence posts and eaves most commonly in developed areas. Digger bees are similar in appearance and size to carpenter bees, and they make their nests in bare soil.
I do not know why, but I have always enjoyed seeing one or two of these big, black beauties buzzing around my yard. In researching for this post I learned that male carpenter bees, which are the solid black ones I see most often, cannot sting. So yes, I enjoy them even more now! So keep you eyes open, and the next time you see one of these beauties thank them for the solitary hard work they do in pollinating our plants!
Client Question:
The client brought a leaf sample into the Help Desk. The leaf was from a Redbud tree. It was covered with spots. The client wondered if we could help with diagnosis and treatment of the problem.
CCMG Help Desk Response:
The spots on the leaf are most likely caused by a fungus, Cercospora. The web page at http://bit.ly/ZePPMa was generated from a Google search of “cercospora leaf spot redbud” It has photos which you could check to see if they look like your problem.
The good news is that most fungal diseases, including Cercospora, will not seriously damage the tree, but it will not look its best at times, including the loss of some leaves. The best way to manage this is to give the tree good cultural care, as stressed trees are more susceptible to problems. Eastern Redbuds, being originally from the Eastern U.S., need regular water and good drainage, so you should water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry, but not so much that the soil stays wet. A several inch layer of mulch out to several feet past the drip line of the tree will help, but make sure the soil close to the trunk is clear of mulch. Also using drip or soaker type irrigation near the drip line will help; to keep the leaves dry, you should not use overhead watering. If the foliage is thick you can lightly prune out the tree to improve air flow, and you can prune off and discard any dead wood and badly affected leaves to remove some of the fungal material. Clean up fallen leaves and debris under the tree as the fungus can survive in fallen leaves and twigs. You should avoid over fertilizing, as new growth is more susceptible to diseases. Anti-fungal sprays are not usually recommended in the home garden and are not usually helpful.
Like most landscape trees, they sometimes have their minor problems, but with some minimal care, the Eastern Redbud is a beautiful and useful garden tree that can add significantly to your home landscape.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
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Help for the Home Gardener from the CCMG Help Desk
Client Question:
The client was at the Shadelands Farmers' Market in Walnut Creek and made contact with the “Ask A Master Gardener" table. They wanted some information on planting a suitable vine for this area that could be grown on a trellis. They would prefer a California native. The vine will be in full sun. The AAMG table provided some guidance and also passed the question along to the Help Desk to provide a more complete answer.
Master Gardener Help Desk Response:
We are blessed with a large number of vines that grow well in Contra Costa County. The Contra Costa Water District website “Gardening in Contra Costa County, Guided Plant Search” (http://www.contracosta.watersavingplants.com/search.php) lists 57 low-water using vines which do well in full sun. The UC Davis Arboretum All-Stars website (http://www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu/arboretum_all_stars.aspx) also lists several low water-using vines. On both websites, each vine is accompanied by a picture and description. The choice can be daunting! There are many personal preferences to be considered when selecting a vine: do you want an evergreen vine (has leaves year-round) or a deciduous vine (loses leaves in winter); what color flowers do you prefer; do you want fruit; and how vigorous a grower?
Because I don't know if your trellis is on a fence or is a free-standing arbor, I will list a few of my favorites which could be used in either location.
- California Grape (Vitis californica ‘Roger's Red') is a fast-growing deciduous native California grape, or at least a hybrid with a native, which has the benefit of being rather drought tolerant, needing deep watering every 2 weeks or less when planted in the ground. California Grape is a pretty aggressive plant and once established will want to reach out and grow wherever it can. I have this vine growing on a large arbor to provide shade. This selection is also well known for its glorious red/orange leaf coloration in the fall. It does produce grapes about the size of raisins, edible but not exactly fulfilling….maybe small batches of jams? And you might want to give consideration to where the grapes fall as they will be something of a nuisance if they are stepped on and carried into the house. You will also become close friends with the neighborhood's birds and squirrels.
Violet or Lavender Trumpet Vine (Clytostoma callistegioides) is an evergreen non-native vine with large lavender trumpet shaped flowers in late spring to summer, a low to very low water user, and also on the UC Davis All-Stars list.Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia violacea) This a vigorous evergreen vine originally from Australia with purple pea-like flowers in late winter to early spring, a low water user, and also on the UC Davis All-Stars list. You would probably want to prune this vine back annually to prevent tangling. There are also varieties with white ('Icicle') and pinkish purple flowers ('Happy Wanderer' and 'Canoelands'), although I don't know the local availability. The purple flowers are usually widely available. This vine makes a glorious show when in bloom and will cover a long fence top to bottom. You can ask my neighbor.Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) is a beautiful evergreen non-native vine with yellow flowers and shiny green leaves. This vine needs regular water when young, but is fairly drought-tolerant once established. One caution -- all parts of the plants are poisonous if eaten.Chilean jasmine (Mandevilla laxa) is a deciduous non-native twining vine with white funnel shaped flowers in summer, low water user, and also on the UC Davis All-Stars list. This vine shouldn't require much pruning.
Looking at each vine's characteristics, you can decide for yourself which will be the best for your garden. Any choice you make will be a good one and one you will enjoy for years.
Good luck!
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
Help for the Home Gardener from the CCMG Help Desk
Client's Question:
“I am thinking about what to plant in a strip along our concrete driveway and a fence line. I am wondering about a cactus garden. There is no watering source, other than by hand, which I am fine with and actually enjoy. Do you have any suggestions on types of cactus or plants? If cacti, I was thinking of ones that are not too spiny as I have small children as neighbors.”
CCMG Help Desk's Response:
Thank you for contacting the CCMG Help Desk about what to plant along your fence. It is difficult to give you specific suggestions without knowing what kind of sun exposure that strip gets. Walnut Creek gets quite warm in the summer and many plants that generally do well in full sun might not do as well between a fence and a concrete patio or driveway because both the fence and the concrete can increase the heat.
You also need to be careful about drainage, especially for succulents. Many succulent gardeners create a small mound (8-12” high) to plant the succulents on to assure good drainage. In your case, maybe that mound would be parallel to the fence. The reason: the soil in many parts of Contra Costa is clay, which does not offer good drainage, making it difficult to grow succulents in the ground. Many succulents grow well in containers where it's easier to give them a better soil mix and control the water. Although most succulents are drought-tolerant, prolonged periods without water may cause their leaves to lose color, shrivel or drop. Give plants just enough water to keep them plump and attractive. You might consider planters (maybe rectangular to fit the space). This could be a solution for you to consider.
Other possibilities for the space would be some of the drought-resistant grasses, perennials or smaller shrubs, either planted in the ground or in containers. Some suggestions for these include lavender, salvia (such as Salvia greggii--autumn sage), Origanum, Santolina, or “pink muhly”--a grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris).
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
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- Author: MaryJo Smith
"Me mind on fire -- Me soul on fire -- Feeling hot hot hot" are not just lyrics to the catchy one-hit wonder by Buster Poindexter. It's also what we've been thinking (and our plants have been feeling) this summer. Although as of September 22nd, the season technically shifted from summer to fall, the temperatures have remained in the mid- to high 90's.
The hot sun and high temperatures can be brutal on a garden causing plants and vegetables to wilt, and soils to dry out. This isn't only about the heat and sun though; when diminished water availability is added to the scenario, it becomes about the effects that all three combined have on the garden. The goal this year has been to keep a healthy amount of moisture in the soil using less water.
With the water restrictions still in effect, it's important to look at ways to grow a fall garden with less water. One way to do that is by using row covers or shade cloths.
Protecting the plants from direct sunlight by using row covers or shade cloth reduces the leaf temperature and plant watering needs (they don't "sweat" as much). This can raise the production of your garden and reduce your irrigating and fertilizing costs. Its also useful in protecting your vegetable patch from insects and birds.
Row covers are often used in the winter to protect plants from frost, and during the spring and summer months to block out the sun. However, consider using them during the early fall season to protect your newly planted "cool" season crops from the sun and heat. Row covers generally block out 15-30% of the sun, depending upon the thickness of the cloth.
With the autumnal heat we've been having, shade cloth, which is a little heavier, might be an even better way to go. It comes in a variety of colors and densities depending upon the amount of sun to be blocked and what vegetables or plants need protection. While light colored shade cloth will reflect more of the sun's rays and heat, expect higher temperatures under darker shade cloth, unless you provide ample air space.
Shade cloth requires a simple support structure consisting of PVC or metal bows that span one or more rows. The bows support the shade cloth over the crop, providing cooling shade and reducing water needs.
If you are planting a vegetable garden, understanding the light requirements of each crop may allow you to plant some crops in a naturally shaded environment. Lettuce, currants, gooseberries, spinach, cauliflower and most beans can grow in conditions with less than full sun. Under these conditions, water use needs will be reduced due to the natural cooling of the plant.
Even plants that require full sun and love the heat (80-90°), such as peppers and tomatoes, sometimes need shade cloth too due to the intense summer sun or heat. I placed shade cloth over my tomatoes this summer when the temperatures were especially high.
Shade cloth can be placed over plants during the hottest time of the day (11 am to 4 pm) to keep them from getting sunburned or stressed. Sun damage can result in wilted or burned leaves and skin. Many of the cool season crops will bolt or go to seed prematurely in higher temperatures, and leafy vegetables turn bitter in taste.
Seedlings and recently transplanted starters do best with reduced sun until they are established. Initially, a shade cloth with a 10% percent density is perfect for sun-loving plants; 30% density cloth is best for more sun sensitive plants. This weight of cloth can also provide some protection from the drying effects of wind. During the hot summer months, most vegetable garden plants require 40% to 60% percent protection from the sun. Even though we are now in October, given the high temperatures were experiencing, using a 40-50% shade cloth to cover the newly planted crops can help with reducing the temperature. Shade can lower plant and soil temperatures by as much as 10°F.
Row covers and shade cloth can be purchased at many garden centers or online. I purchase mine online because of the broader selection.