I am a third-generation California-born gal. I've grown different plants, but I could never grow California poppies. My state flower, my favorite flower - I tried and tried and always got zippo, nada, nyet, nuttin'. So I gave it up.

Two years ago I went to the Walker Canyon poppy superbloom twice; once when there were lots of people, and a second time early in the morning when there were very few visitors. It was unbelievably beautiful. I felt compelled to try to grow poppies one more time.

During a visit to the Theodore Payne Foundation in Sun Valley last year (theodorepayne.org). I picked up several packs of California Golden Poppy seed and a few packs of red poppy seed. Last September I sprinkled all but one of the packs along the dry creek bed we'd put in years ago. I kept all the seed within the rocky confines of the creek.

Fast forward to this past winter. There was another superbloom in Walker Canyon.  I saw that one as well, and somehow it seemed even more spectacular than the 2017 superbloom. I wished I could have a bit of that golden glory of my own to see every day. But all I had was a dry creek bed. Period.

And then – a tiny, unmistakable poppy leaf appeared from under a rock. Later in the day, it had the company of another tiny poppy leaf. I scrutinized the seeded creek bed daily, like a 49er examining his claim, hoping to find gold. During the following weeks more and more little poppy plants popped up. I was thrilled. But that's all there was. Plants. No little golden explosions of color. I thought “Well, okay. It's a start. Better than I've done before. Maybe next year.”

On March 15 at 11:29 a.m. I saw it: One lone Golden California Poppy atop a long, reedy stem. It wasn't open, but in my eyes it was the singularly most stunningly gorgeous and perfect flower that ever existed. It was every happy holiday, birthday, and special occasion all rolled up in soft petals of golden orange. I was sure it was smiling at me.

If that one closed poppy had then disappeared, I would have felt satisfied. I'd gotten a poppy! But evidently the end of the rainbow had settled down on my dry creek bed, for not only did that first poppy open in all its glory – others started appearing. Daily; almost hourly! I had a poppy pot of gold!

Poppies are wild flowers; they grow where they want, and regardless of how their seeds are placed, I am certain that when no one is looking, those little seeds get up and march to the very spot they think they should be. The strictures of a human plan cannot contain them; they are an expression of freedom in nature. If we are lucky, we get to witness that expression. 

The golden poppies have been joined by red poppies, appearing somewhat later than the goldens.  They are growing outside of the creek bed and have shown that their design sense is far superior to mine.  Each of them is perfectly situated, their size and colors in a balanced palette I could never achieve.  

Next September I will again seed poppies. But this time I will toss them into the breeze, rather than in a neat arrangement of where I think they ought to grow.  The poppies know much better than I where they ought to be. 

Cathi Bibeau is a home gardener, growing various fruits, seasonal vegetables and a few types of ornamental flowers.  And now poppies.

As I wander around my yard, I am seeing many flowers that have bloomed and are now starting to look "dead." They are actually ready to go to seed.  So I pinch off the spent flowers or "deadhead" to cause the plant to flower again. Deadheading is very simple. As plants fade out of bloom, pinch or cut off the flower stem just below the spent flower and just above the first set of full, healthy leaves. Repeat with all dead flowers on the plant. The plant will flower again in a week or two. Most annuals and many perennials will continue to bloom throughout the growing season if they are regularly deadheaded.

The plant's purpose is to seed and reproduce so when you pinch off the spent flowers, it will re-flower to produce more seeds. I cut or pinch off "dead" flowers on snapdragons, dianthus, violas, pansies, roses, and sometimes columbine. Other plants that will re-flower with this process are bleeding heart, phlox, delphinium, lupine, sage, salvia, veronica, Shasta daisy, yarrow, and coneflower to name a few.  I usually let them seed out after one deadheading, but this can be done more than once during a growing season. I spread the seeds after the second flowering after the seeds pods have dried on the plant so they will return next year in more abundance.

Although some people might consider this to be a tedious task, I enjoy being in my yard and “communing” with my plants. I encourage you to get outside and extend your summer flowering with deadheading!  

Used coffee grounds are abundantly available for the asking at your local coffee shop. But just because the item is free, is it beneficial for composting?

Compost your coffee -

Coffee grounds add nitrogen to the compost, but as fertilizer they do not add nitrogen immediately to the soil. About 2% nitrogen by volume, used coffee grounds are a safe substitute for nitrogen-rich animal products. A study at Oregon State University showed that when composted, coffee helps sustain high temperatures in compost piles, in contrast with manure, which doesn't sustain the heat as long. When grounds made up 25 percent of the volume of a compost pile, temperatures stayed between 135 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit for at least two weeks. High composting temperatures help reduce potentially dangerous pathogens and kill seeds from weeds and vegetables that have been added to the compost. In the OSU study two weeks was sufficient time to kill a significant portion of both pathogens and seeds. When composting coffee, remember that grounds are considered green material, so balance your mix by adding an equal amount of brown material, like dried leaves, shredded cuttings, or paper.

Using coffee as mulch -

Fresh coffee grounds are acidic, but used coffee grounds are neutral when added to the soil. The acid in coffee beans is mostly water soluble, so it leaches into the coffee we drink. After brewing, the grounds are between 6.5 and 6.8 pH, so they won't affect the soil acidity. Coffee grounds can be used as mulch. Adding this organic matter to the soil improves drainage, water retention and aeration. Coffee grounds also help keep slugs and snails away from plants.

An additional benefit of composting grounds is diverting them from the landfill. And recycling coffee shop grounds fosters interactions between community residents and local businesses.

For more on composting, and the benefits of recycling coffee grounds see UCANR Master Gardener Tip Sheet, Composting is Good for Your Garden and the Environment, and the links used as reference, below:

Composting With Coffee Grounds – Used Coffee Grounds for Gardening, from gardeningkowhow.com

Coffee Grounds Perk Up Compost Pile with Nitrogen, from Oregon State University

 

 

 

In many parts of the world, a chile a day is the centerpiece of a good diet. The chile plant (Capsicum annuum) is native to the Americas, but from the first European contact, the nutrient-packed fruit was transported abroad. For more than five centuries, varieties of peppers have been cultivated worldwide, and are part of local cuisines, from Budapest to Delhi. What would Indian food be without hot curries, or a Thai meal without its peppers?

In the Americas, chiles are a traditional staple, along with corn, beans, squash, potatoes, and protein-rich grains, like quinoa. The Capsicum fruit is packed with nutrients like vitamin C, vitamin A, riboflavin, and niacin. It's also rich in calcium, phosphorus, iron, and potassium. An additional benefit comes with the spice; consuming chiles increases enzyme production and helps the body digest fats. This condiment is not only a flavor-booster – it's good for the heart! Chile connoisseurs have their favorites, which range from the super-spicy (Scotch Bonnets, Habaneros) to the mild and tasty (Sweet Cherry and Banana Peppers). California nurseries are expanding their selection of both chile plants and seeds. Treats like Shisitos (East Asia) and Pimientos de Padrón (Spain), once only found in high-end restaurants, can now be grown and grilled at home. Whatever variety appeals to you, all peppers grow well in sunny Southern California.

Capsicum annuum (chile) has three basic needs: full sun; warm weather; and well-drained soil. If you're planting from seed, it's best to start indoors by March or April. Don't worry about missing this year's germination time. Local nurseries stock ready-to-plant peppers of all kinds, and seeds can be gathered at harvest. First, choose a healthy plant, and then select a locale – either in a container or the garden plot. Be sure to separate chiles by variety, as they are notorious for cross-pollinating. This year's Serrano chile may wind up next year's Serrano/Pequín! The following are some basic tips for the chile gardener:

Germination – Chiles need a warm environment for sprouting. They'll need at least four weeks at a temperature of around 80 degrees ^F. A sunny window can provide the warmth, but be sure to moisten the soil regularly. Seeding soil should be well-draining, so the plants never stand in water.

Transplanting – Chiles love sunlight. They prefer temperatures of up to 80 degrees in the day and not below 60 degrees at night. Seedlings can be transplanted once they have developed their true leaves. Transfer plants outdoors once night time temperatures have reached a consistent 50 degrees. Chiles prefer growing alongside other plants. Space them 14 to 16 inches apart, and stake plants if you expect winds.

Soil and Nutrients – Chiles require well-draining soil, and a slightly acidic environment (pH 5.5 – 7). If the planting mix is loamy or moist, adding sand will make for better drainage. A typical tomato fertilizer (5-10-10) can be applied, but chiles don't require much. In fact, too much nitrogen can damage the plant, and inhibit the fruit's growth, so fertilize sparingly. The best strategy is to start with a mineral-rich soil, high in phosphorous, potassium and calcium. Prepare your plots with nutrients before the seedlings go in, then fertilize again lightly when the fruit begins to appear.

Water – Water deeply, and infrequently. Adding warm water will prevent root shock. Do this when the soil surface dries, but don't allow the area to dry completely. Be careful not to over-soak the roots.

Special Care – Unlike zucchini or pumpkins, peppers are self-pollinating. In times of stress, however, hand-pollinating the flowers helps ensure a good yield of fruit. In the afternoon, when pollen levels are highest, use a soft paintbrush or cotton swab. Gently touch one flower center, then another. The fruit is ready to harvest when it comes easily from the stem, about 70 to 80 days from planting, depending on conditions. Chile season can go from July through September. Some types can be treated like perennials, so look for grower's instructions on over-wintering.

Seed Saving – To save seeds, remove them gently from the fruit. To prevent mold, allow them to dry slowly. Store seeds in a paper bag or envelope. When spring comes around, rinse and soak seeds for a few hours, then place in loose planting soil, about ¼ inch deep. Set seed trays in a warm place and moisten regularly. They'll be the start of next year's tasty crop.