On Saturday, October 26, join the UC Master Gardeners to hear a free talk on these marvelous butterflies that so many love. Learn about butterflies in general, more about Monarchs, their life cycle and their incredible migration, the importance of nectar plants and milkweed to their survival, and how you can help them. Free milkweed seed packets will be given to attendees. Use the link below to register. If you register before Friday, October 25 at 12 you will receive a handout at the class.
Date: Saturday, October 26, 2024
Time: 9:30 am – 11:30 am
Where: Stanislaus County Ag Center, 3800 Cornucopia Way, Harvest Hall Rooms D&E
Register: https://surveys.ucanr.edu/survey.cfm?surveynumber=43599
Join UC Master Gardener Denise Godbout-Avant of Stanislaus County for an online webinar on Monday, October 14, 7:00-8:30pm. Register ahead of time to receive the link at:
https://www.cnps.org/event/indigenous-peoples-use-of-california-native-plants
- Author: Ed Perry
Trees normally begin to show fall colors in late October, especially after a several cold nights. If you are seeing orange, yellow, red, burgundy, and purple leaves on deciduous trees this time of year, it's a symptom of stress. You might not be able to do anything to correct the problem now, but much can be done to prevent a repeat next fall, and improve the health of your tree before spring.
First, determine the source of the stress and correct it. Look closely at the tree. Check for wounds on the trunk from mechanical injury or sunburn. If early fall color is the result of wounds, take steps to prevent further wounding. The trunks of young trees can be protected from string weeder damage with plastic sleeves. Better yet, place chip mulch on the soil around the tree to remove the temptation to mow or weed right up to the trunk.
Determine if the tree is growing in a site where the roots may be restricted by pavement or buildings. Is it possible the roots were recently cut? Root disease, recent disruption to roots from construction or grade changes, surface soil compaction from vehicles or foot traffic and girdling roots can also cause trees to develop early fall color. If surface compaction is a problem, loosen the soil by cultivating to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. This should improve moisture and oxygen penetration. Follow up by watering the tree deeply.
The best way to prevent stress and early fall color is to make sure the tree receives sufficient deep water during the summer. If you haven't already, deep water your tree. Sprinkler water does not provide adequate water for trees, so supplement with a hose, focusing the water underneath the tree canopy. For mature trees, water needs to penetrate to a depth of 12-18" to provide enough water.
For questions about your trees, contact the Master Gardeners at (209) 525-6862 or fill out this form http://ucanr.edu/ask/ucmgstanislaus
Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.
Meet two real-life entomologists that studied bugs in school and now work with them for their job. Learn how they became interested in bugs, and the projects they work on.
You'll also learn about the common critters found around your home, and then make an insect collection. (bring all the dead bugs you can find!)
We will provide a box, pins, labels, and some bugs. Put bugs you find around your home in a jar and freeze them, then bring it to the workshop. You will take home a bug magnifier and bug net.
Where: Ag Center, Harvest Hall rooms D&E, 3800 Cornucopia Way, Modesto, 95358.
When: Saturday, October 5, 9:30 AM - 11:30 AM
Cost: $10
Sign up: https://ucanr.edu/get/buggy/2024
Questions? (209) 525-6800, ask for Anne.
Instructors: UC Cooperative Extension Entomologists Mahesh Ghimire and Dr. Samaneh Sakaki, UC Master Gardeners Alycia Johnson-Urban, Doone Cockrell, and Tara Hoffknecht.
Questions? Call (209) 525-6800 and ask for Anne, or email her at aschellman@ucanr.edu
*never try to catch bees or wasps, as they may sting you. You can usually find them already dead, laying on the ground.
/span>- Author: Barbara Kissinger Santos
Where to plant
Planting seeds
Once the seedlings emerge you will need to thin them. For me this is the hardest part of gardening, removing perfectly good seedlings to give others the chance to grow. But it is especially important with root crops like carrots because leaving too many seedlings causes them to compete for limited nutrients and space and results in a poor crop. So, toughen up, identify the hardiest seedlings, and thin them to a minimum of ¾ inch apart to as much as 2 inches apart depending on anticipated root size. Pulling them can disrupt nearby seedlings so cutting them at ground level can be a better option. If you can't bring yourself to do it, do like I do and pretend the ones you are thinning are weeds. Check back at least weekly and remove any late sprouting seedlings.
Young seedlings are fragile and should be watered using the mist option on your hose nozzle or with a drip system. Only light watering is needed. Once your plants are past the seedling stage the important growing occurs beneath the soil so make sure the soil is moist throughout the root zone.
Fertilizing
Carrots use a lot of nutrients and can benefit from a light application of fertilizer. Use a fertilizer with a balanced amount of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) such as 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or 12-12-12. Follow manufacturer recommendations on the amount and method to apply as it will vary based on the amount of NPK per pound of product. More fertilizer can be applied while plants are growing, generally starting after plants are 3-4 inches tall. Add to the sides of the row and water in or apply through your drip system. Light application every 3-4 weeks is preferred to one heavy application.
At last, harvest
Most varieties of carrots are ready to harvest 90 days after planting. Harvesting too early yields undersized carrots that may not have the flavor and texture you were hoping for. If left in the ground for too long they will become tough and may crack. Check the root size by digging the soil around the carrot and harvest when they are the size you want.
Read more about carrots in the following UC IPM publication
Cultural Tips for Growing Carrots: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/carrot/cultural-tips/index.html?src=307-pageViewHLS
Barbara Kissinger Santos has been a UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Stanislaus County since 2024.
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