In our previous blog, we posted a Pollinator Quiz. How did you do? Check the answers below to find out. Please post your responses in the comments section, or reply to the post on our Facebook page.

Longhorn bee. (Ellen Zagory, UC Davis Arboretum & Public Garden)

Question #1: What is pollination?

Pollination happens when pollen is moved by an insect, animal, or the wind. Pollen moves between the male part of a flower to the female part of either the same flower or another flower of the same species. This is how fertilization takes place and produces fruits and seeds.

Male longhorn bee and red admiral butterfly on Tithonia. (Kathy Keatley Garvey, UC Davis Entomology and Nematology)

Question #2: Which of the following are pollinators?

• (European) Honey bees
• Flies
• Wasps
• Butterflies
• Moths
• Hummingbirds
• Dragonflies
• Rats
• Native bees
• Lizards
• Beetles

All the above are pollinators, except for dragonflies, rats, and lizards! You may have been surprised to see flies, wasps, bats, and beetles listed. These pollinators help fertilize plants, although some are more efficient than others. You can support these animals and insects by planting a pollinator garden.

Pipevine swallowtail butterfly larva. (Anne Schellman)

Question #3: What 3 important things do you need to provide in your garden to support pollinators?

When planning a pollinator garden, keep these 3 elements in mind:

Food
Flowers provide nectar (energy) and pollen (protein) for pollinators. However, moth and butterfly larvae (also called caterpillars) often rely on one specific plant for food.

To attract pollinators when planning your garden, purchase at least three of each kind of plant species and plant them in a group. This makes it easier for pollinators to find the plants and to return to your garden.

In fall and late winter, nectar and pollen resources are scarce, so look for plants such as Knifophia ‘Christmas Cheer,' California fuchsia (Epilobium spp.), various species of salvia such as ‘Mexican Sage' (Salvia leucantha) and Gooseberry (Ribes spp.). You can also visit nurseries and garden centers to see what's in bloom during those times.

Western tiger swallowtail. (Ellen Zagory, UC Davis Arboretum & Public Garden)

Water
Many pollinators need water for survival. Bird baths and fountains attract hummingbirds and bees and help them stay hydrated. However, make sure your water source isn't too deep, or the pollinators may drown. Add pebbles or stones to shallow dishes and floating corks to deeper containers.

Shelter
Moths and Butterflies
In addition to providing food for moths and butterflies, larval food plants also provide shelter. If you remember the book The Very Hungry Caterpillar, these critters eat a lot! Make sure you have enough food, and be prepared to have your plants stripped bare of leaves if you get a lot of caterpillar visitors!

Native Bees
Seventy percent of native bees nest in the ground, so leave bare areas in your landscape for them. The other thirty percent nest in wood or a cavity created by another critter. Create bee boxes by drilling holes ¾ apart of various diameters between ¼ to ⅜ inches. To see native bee photos, visit the UC Davis Arboretum & Public Garden page Beyond the Honey Bee. To create habitat for wood nesting bees, visit this Xerces Society page for directions.

Honey Bees
If you want to have your own hive, you can learn all about it and even take classes at UC Davis. Visit the Apiculture Courses page. 

Hummingbird at feeder. (Kathy Keatley Garvey, UC Davis Entomology and Nematology)

Online Resources
How to Attract and Maintain Pollinators in Your Garden
California Bee-Friendly Garden Recipes  
Gardening for Pollinators
What You Might Not Know about Hummingbirds
Get to Know Common Local Native Bees

Print Resources
Frankie, G.W. et al. 2014. California Bees and Blooms, a Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists. Berkeley: Heyday books.

Jadallah, C. et al. 2017. Common Bees in California Gardens, UC ANR Publication 3552. (Bee identification cards, spiral bound.) 

Shapiro, A.M., and T. Manolis. 2007. Field Guide to Butterflies of the San Francisco Bay and Sacramento Valley Regions. Berkeley: University of California Press. 

You may have heard a lot of “buzz” about pollinators lately. Declining pollinator numbers have caused concern among gardeners in California, prompting them to ask the UCCE Master Gardener program how it can help. But instead of us just telling you about pollinators, let's test your knowledge about them with a fun quiz!

Pollinator garden. (Ellen Zagory, UC Davis Arboretum and Public Garden)

Question #1: What is pollination?

Question #2: Which of the following are pollinators?

• (European) Honey bees
• Flies
• Wasps
• Butterflies
• Moths
• Hummingbirds
• Dragonflies
• Rats
• Native bees
• Snakes
• Beetles

Question #3: What 3 important things do you need to provide in your garden to support pollinators?

Write down your answers and then read tomorrow's blog post to see how well you did! Our next post will feature the answers to help you plan a pollinator garden. Also, look for a free class from us this summer or fall on pollinators. Subscribe to our blog and follow us on Facebook and twitter so you don't miss it!

Just like humans, pests need food, water, and shelter to live. Unfortunately, we may unknowingly attract and even invite them to live in and around our homes!

Various life stages of Oriental cockroach. (Jack Kelly Clark)

Pest Attractors and Supporters
Some pests prefer to live outdoors, while others like the ambiance inside your garage or home. Here are some ways you may be providing pests with food, water, and shelter:

• Pet food and water bowls (indoors and outside)
• Bird feeders
• Leaking water spigots
• Open food packages in your kitchen
• Hedges and shrubs near doors or windows

Varied carpet beetles. (Dong-Hwan Choe)

Entry Points
Insect and animal pests can pass through small spaces. For example, mice can get through a hole the width of a pencil, and cockroaches can flatten themselves and squeeze through cracks. Here are some ways pests might be entering your home:

• Holes in windows and screen doors
• Cracks in the foundation of your house
• Holes in the roof or attic
• Crevices around pipes indoors (bathrooms, laundry area, kitchens) and outside

Norway rat. (Jack Kelly Clark)

Use IPM to Manage Pests

Use integrated pest management or IPM to help you pest proof your home. First, walk in and around your home to inspect for the above pest attractors, and entry points. If you can't personally inspect your home or don't have time, you can call a pest control company and ask them to do it for you. This is helpful for hard to access places like basements and attics.

Follow directions on the Quick Tips cards below for common pests. If your pest isn't listed, check the UC IPM Website. If you find a pest you can't identify, contact the UCCE Master Gardeners of Stanislaus County at (209) 525-6800 or send an email to ucmgstanislaus@ucanr.edu.

Ants 

Carpet Beetles 

Cockroaches 

House Mouse 

Pantry Pests (pests found in the kitchen)

Rats 

When planning your spring garden, one of the first decisions you must make is whether to use those seeds you saved from last year. Are they still as viable as they were when you purchased them, or will you be better off simply buying a new supply? 

The answer depends upon the conditions under which the seeds were stored, as well as the length of storage. The two most important environmental conditions in seed storage are temperature and humidity. You should store all seeds under cool and dry conditions.  An airtight, sealed jar placed in your refrigerator is a good way to do this. Stored in this way, many vegetable seeds will retain almost “first year” germination and vigor for several seasons. If you can't refrigerate your seed, at least keep it as dry and cool as possible.

Germination Test 2.1.19

The length of time seed is stored is not as critical as the conditions under which it is stored, but all seed deteriorates with time. Older seeds tend to require a longer time to germinate, and the seedlings do not grow as rapidly. Delayed germination and slow  growth can cause young plants to be more susceptible to insect damage and seedling diseases. A delay in germination and growth can also delay maturity of the crop.

It's a good idea to test old seed before you plant. Place a few between moist paper towels and leave them at room temperature. Some seed normally takes longer to sprout than others, but if fewer than half of the seeds sprout or if they take an exceptionally long time, it's best not to use them.

Germination Test 2.3.19

Saving seed doesn't always save you money. In fact, it's more likely that losses due to poor germination and reduced vigor will more than offset any money you save by not buying fresh seed. However, buying new seed won't make up for poor planning.  Even new seed will fail to sprout if it is planted at the wrong time of the year. If the seeds of warm season vegetable crops are planted before the soil warms up enough, they will often rot.  For instance, the minimum soil temperature for seed germination of cucumber, cantaloupe, okra, pumpkin, squash and watermelon is 60ºF. However, at this temperature, the seed will not grow vigorously. A better soil temperature for those crops would be between 65ºF and 75ºF. Many summer vegetables require even higher soil temperatures for best germination and growth. For example, the optimum soil  temperature for beans, eggplant, pepper, tomato and corn is 85ºF.  As you can see, it doesn't pay to rush your planting.

Germination Test 2.6.19

Seeds need the proper amount of moisture and air in the soil to sprout. If the seeds dry out, even for a few hours, they will die. After you water, air enters the spaces between the soil particles as the excess water drains out of the soil. Since clay soils have less air space, seeds can suffocate if the soil is kept too wet. Mixing organic matter into the soil where you plant improves the soil's drainage and increases the amount of air in the soil. This will also help to prevent soil crusting, another reason seedlings often fail to appear.

Excess salts in the soil can burn tender plant roots. Soils with poor drainage may accumulate excess salts. Too heavy an application of fertilizer can also damage seedlings, so carefully follow the directions on commercial fertilizer products. If you use manures, mix them into the soil at least 4 weeks before planting and water heavily to wash out the excess salts they may contain.

Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County.