When discussing fruit tree planting and growing, I always stress the importance of developing trees for the long run. While you may plant and harvest vegetable crops in a single season, fruit trees and grapevines remain in your garden for many years. You need to keep this in mind while you are pruning and caring for your young trees.

During the first two to four years after planting a new fruit tree, fruit production is either light or absent. However, this is the time when major root growth takes place and the basic framework of the tree is being developed. Actually, the first year that the tree is in the ground is the most important for root development. Stress caused by diseases, nematodes, weed competition or insufficient water can slow or stop root development, and hence top development. If your tree's growth is stunted from the beginning, there is little chance that it will grow satisfactorily in later years. After the first years, young trees become more tolerant to many of these stresses.

The second and third growing seasons are critical ones for developing your tree's framework for fruit production.  Deciduous fruit and nut trees must be properly trained for structural strength while developing maximum fruiting area.  The system most used is the open center or vase system. Citrus and avocado trees, on the other hand, do not require extensive pruning. Pests such as twig boring insects that cause distortion of early limb growth are most serious during these early years, because their damage affects the ultimate shape of the tree.

Young trees are often most susceptible to certain diseases such as bacterial canker or verticillium wilt. If your trees reach eight or nine years of age without being badly injured by these diseases, chances are good that they will survive future attacks.

Stunting of growth due to weed competition can be very serious during the first two or three years of fruit tree development. Vertebrate pests such as gophers or mice can also do serious damage to newly planted trees because the trunks and roots of young trees are more susceptible to their feeding.  You need to take quick action to control weeds and rodents around young trees.

Of course the most common and serious cause of poor tree development is improper watering practices. Too much or too little water will prevent the vigorous growth of young fruit trees, and make them more susceptible to pest, disease and sunburn problems as well. More than any other cultural practice, irrigation will affect the growth, development, and long term health and productivity of your fruit trees.

Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.

Learn more about planting and pruning bare root fruit trees by watching the recording of our past class on our YouTube Channel.

The bare root fruit tree planting season is already here! Between December and February, deciduous bare root fruit trees are available for sale at nurseries and garden centers.

Deciduous Fruit Trees

Deciduous fruit trees lose their leaves each winter. These trees include apple, pear, cherry, nectarine, peach, plum, and apricot; it does not include citrus or avocado trees, which are evergreen.

What is a Bare Root Fruit Tree?

A “bare root” fruit tree is a tree sold in its dormant state. The tree has no leaves, is not actively growing, and is sold without a pot. When you choose your tree, a store employee pulls it out of a large container with other trees that is filled with sawdust. The tree roots are wrapped with moistened newspaper, and then covered over with butcher paper and tied with a string. You'll be advised to take it home and plant it right away. Some garden centers may sell bare root fruit trees in plastic bags. If the material around the roots is moist and the roots have not dried out, the tree should be healthy.

Choosing a Fruit Tree

Fruit trees require a lot of care. This 90-minute class will cover the basics of planting and pruning fruit trees, including how to choose the tree and trees which kinds of trees need a pollinizer. There isn't time to cover pest management, but you are welcome to stay on the call and ask questions about this at the end.

I have a Small Yard or an Apartment, Can I have a Fruit Tree?

Deciduous fruit trees as well as evergreen fruit trees get very large. Fruit trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock and labeled “genetic dwarf” are smaller than semi-dwarf and standard trees, however they have extensive roots and are not recommended for containers. One exception is the kumquat, a sweet and tangy citrus fruit. Small yards can have fruit trees, but you have to start your tree out right for this to work. 

If you live in an apartment and want fruit, you can grow your own blueberries or strawberries in containers. See our publications:

Blueberries in Your Garden  https://ucanr.edu/sites/CEStanislausCo/files/111737.pdf 
Strawberries in Your Garden  https://ucanr.edu/sites/CEStanislausCo/files/111651.pdf 

Registration Open for our Free Class

We hope to “see” you at our Planting and Pruning Bare Root Fruit Trees Zoom class at the end of the month! If you miss it, you can find it later on our YouTube Channel.

When: Tuesday, January 25, 2022 6:00-7:30 p.m.
Cost: Free
Register at: http://ucanr.edu/bareroot2022  
Instructors: Hector Vera-Uribe and Johnny Mullins

 [From the UC IPM blog Pests in the Urban Landscape] 

Citrus trees need care throughout the year, including cultural practices to keep trees healthy and pest management. During the fall season, several pests can attack citrus trees in many California regions. 

Brown Rot

Monitor for this disease by checking for damaged fruit on your tree, as well as fruit in storage. Sometimes affected fruit develops a pungent odor and can ruin fruit held in storage. See the UC IPM web page on Brown Rot to learn more.

Citrus Leafminer

If you see what look like small “tunnels” on your citrus tree leaves, your tree might have citrus leafminer. The adult stage of this pest is a small, light colored moth; the larval stage feeds and develops inside the leaves of young citrus and other closely related plants.

Citrus leafminer rarely causes problems for mature trees, however, it can seriously damage very young trees. Read the UC IPM Pest Notes: Citrus Leafminer for recommendations for prevention or management.

Snails and Slugs

Snails and slugs are attracted to citrus trees and can feed on foliage and fruit. A good sign that these pests are the perpetrators of tree damage are the silvery trails of slime along the ground or on tree leaves, or even see the snails or slugs themselves. For management tips, read the UC IPM Pest Notes: Snails and Slugs.

Asian Citrus Psyllid and Huanglongbing

You may have heard of the Asian citrus psyllid (ACP) and the deadly disease huanglongbing (also called citrus greening) that has been featured in the news. This disease doesn't pose a threat to humans or animals, but is deadly to citrus trees. Once a tree develops huanglongbing, there is no cure, so for this disease prevention is key.

Stopping this serious citrus pest will require everyone's help. To learn more about the psyllid and the disease, as well as what you can do, visit the UC IPM Pest Notes: Asian Citrus Psyllid and Huanglongbing Disease.

UC IPM Web Site

For information on managing other citrus pests in the garden, see the UC IPM webpage on Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Citrus.

Citrus trees can be planted any time after the danger of frost has passed, which in our area is usually around mid-to-late March. It's a good idea to plant citrus early – try to have your trees in the ground by May – because a sudden hot spell may damage trees that are not well established. Citrus trees planted during the cool spring months will be better able to withstand the cold weather of their first winter than trees planted later in the year. Your favorite nursery or garden center should have a good supply of new citrus trees right about now.

Citrus trees grow best in loam or sandy loam soil, but you can grow them in most soils that have good drainage. If your soil drains poorly, you might try planting in a raised bed or on a mound. Plant your trees in an area that receives full sun, and allow enough room for the tree's mature size.  I don't recommend planting in a lawn area because it's difficult to irrigate both the citrus and the lawn correctly. Also, the grass tends to absorb many of the nutrients needed by the tree.

In the nursery, citrus varieties are budded onto suitable rootstocks and grown for one or two years. Trees are sold in containers. Choose a one or two year old tree, but avoid older trees that have been held in containers so long that they're root bound.

Dig the planting hole just deep enough to plant the tree at the same level that it was in the nursery. The diameter of the hole should be about 6 inches larger than the root ball. If the hole is too deep, the tree will settle too much after planting.  Trees that settle too deep are likely to be killed by crown rot, a fungus disease that frequently develops where the soil covers the bark of the tree.

You can place balled and burlap-wrapped trees in the planting holes without removing the cloth sacking that covers the roots. Plant them a little higher than they were in the nursery, allowing about 3 inches for settling. Try to have the uppermost roots branch out at about ground level after the trees have settled.

You should handle trees in containers in much the same way. Carefully remove the container and place the tree in the hole at the correct depth. Be careful not to break the ball of soil surrounding the root system. After you have the tree properly placed, fill the hole three-fourths full of soil and tamp the soil around the root ball. Then finish filling the hole. Be sure to form a basin around the tree and irrigate thoroughly.

Do not put any fertilizer in the hole when planting your tree because it may damage the roots. It's safer to apply fertilizer to the surface of the soil after you've planted. If you use manure, use it lightly because roots may be damaged by salts which manures contain.

Citrus trees do very poorly in dry soil, so be sure to pay close attention to irrigation, especially during the first summer.

Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.