- Author: Ben Faber
This has been a hot time. Look for irrigation problems, but also look for other weather related problems. This is possibly the most shocking.
If you see your citrus tree suddenly collapse. It happens on a weekend or in a few days, and it has suddenly turned hot with a Santa Ana or Sundowner, it is quite likely "Dry Root Rot". This is a situation where the water conducting tissues, the xylem, have been clogged by fungi and when a sudden demand for water comes from the weather, the tree collapses because it can not support the movement of enough water to satisfy that demand. It is more common along the coast than the Valleyk, but it does occur there, as well.
It starts with some type of wound to the crown roots or stem - gophers or field mice nibbling away at the roots or crown. Or damage from weed whipping or some sort of mechanical damage. This allows entry of the Fusarium fungus that causes the xylem clogging. You can usually see the damaged tissue just below the bark, near the base of the tree. The damage has usually occurred several years prior and takes awhile for the fungus to do its clogging. There's no know cure for this situation. Cut the tree out. It's not particularly contagious as far as we know. The fungus is cosmopolitan, meaning it is found in most orchards, and it just waiting for a wound to invade. You can replant into the orchard, but just avoid causing wounding.
Dry root rot affects all citrus species and varieties.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r107100211.html
Photos:
Collapsed canopy, grapefruit
Dead tissue below the bark
- Author: Ben Faber
Recently some 'W. Murcott' mandarins were shown to me. Brown spots in the core of the fruit. Another problem caused by drought and lack of leaching rains. Endoxerosis, also called internal decline, yellow tip, dry and blossom end decline is often confused with Alternaria rot which frequently accompanies or follows it. Internal tissues back of the stylar end break down, dry and become pinkish or brownish in color. Gum commonly forms in the core and either in or nest to the rind. Green fruits lose luster and frequently but not always develop a yellow color in circular areas surround the stylar end. The cut fru9i shows the gummy pinkish to brownish mass of partially dried and collapsed tissue. Gumming may even extend into the twig bearing the affected fruit. When the fruit turns color, the malady is more difficult to detect without cutting.
The cause is believed to be related to water and the physiological conditions within the tree and fruit and temperature conditions in the air and soil influencing transpiration and water stress. It is suggested therefore that water condones in the soil be kept as favorable for tree heath as possible and pick on time so that they are not over mature.
From: The Citrus Industry, Volume IV, Editor: Walter Reuther, UC Press
In other words, make sure to leach the root zone of accumulated salts from previous irrigations and pray for rain.
Craig Kallsen in Kern County says he often sees this in young mandarins especially on the south and west sides of the canopy, to the point that growers will not even bother to harvest this fruit until the trees are older. The fruit just transpires so much water when it's not shaded that the fruit just dries out.
If my Latin serves me right: endo - inside, xeric - dry. Dry Inside.
- Author: Ben Faber
Lots of seeds; thick, coarse skin; not big, not small; thorns; sour; but fragrant, cold tolerant and selling for good prices. A cross between one of the original citrus parents – papeda – and a mandarin. It's got some pretty ancestral properties with something of a lemony flavor and a grapefruit odor. Yuzu is a citrus fruit esteemed by Japanese and Korean chefs just for the qualities of the juice and peel. At this point it cannot be imported fresh, so must be grown in California if it is used as a fresh ingredient. And prices at a recent farmers market made me shake my head at what was being charged. I would hate to think what would happen to prices if suddenly we had 500 acres of the fruit.
For more on yuzu, check out the UC Citrus Variety Collection at:
http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/yuzu1.html
Check out the seeds in this fruit
And the productivity
- Author: Ben Faber
It is that time of year and we should be alert to threat of freezing weather and damage to trees. Last winter was one of the warmest on record, but there was still a sneak cold blast around the New Year that caused some problems in some areas. Wet winters tend to have lower frost threats, and even though wet is forecast for this winter, that rain is not forecast until late in January. That still leaves December and early January which historically when most of our damaging frosts occur. Fox Weather on the CA Avocado Commission is forecasting some cold weather coming up, so growers need to be prepared for the worst.
Here are some links to frost information, preparing for frost and managing frost damage to trees.
A Frost Primer
http://ceventura.ucanr.edu/Com_Ag/Subtropical/Publications/Frost/A_Frost_Primer_-_2002_/
Protecting Avocados from Frost
Rehabilitation of Freeze-Damaged Citrus and Avocado Trees
The forecast is for north winds, which often means cold, dry air and often with winds. Winds mean no inversion and no warm air that can be introduced at ground level to warm trees. If this occurs, running a wind machine can make the damage worse. Wind machines and orchard heaters work on the principle of mixing that warmer air higher up – 20-100 or so feet higher than ground level which has colder air. When temperatures drop, the air is dry (wet-bulb temp below 28 deg F) and there is no inversion, running a wind machine can just stir up cold air and cause worse conditions (freeze-drying). It's better to not run the machine. The only thing left to do is to run the microsprinklers during the day so that the water can absorb the day's heat. Then turn the water off before sunset so that evaporative cooling from the running water isn't accentuated. Then when temperatures drop near 32 at night and the dewpoint is much below that, it's time to start the water again and let it run until sunrise (when risk is less). Running water works even if the water freezes. This is due to the release of heat when water goes from liquid to frozen state. This 1-2 degrees can mean the difference between frost damage and no damage. Also, ice on fruit and leaves can insulate the fruit. As the ice melts at the surface of the plant, it releases heat, protecting the plants. If there is not sufficient water to run the whole orchard, it's best to pick out the irrigation blocks that are the coldest or the ones you definitely want to save and run the water there continuously. Running the water and turning it off during the night to irrigate another block can lead to colder temperatures in both blocks.
Keep warm this winter.