- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Lauren Fordyce
Hydrilla is easily spread since it often breaks apart into tiny pieces that can each produce new plants. It also produces special survival structures on the stems (turions) and in the sediment (tubers). Each tuber can produce a new plant. The tubers can survive up to seven years in the sediment before sprouting, even if no water is present.
What can you do?
Hydrilla can be introduced to new areas on boats, trailers, fishing tackle, and sometimes even waterfowl. Inspect these items and remove any plant material from them before leaving the water. Hydrilla is also commonly sold for use in aquariums. Never dump your aquarium water into waterways or down the drain.
The California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) conducts eradication efforts in multiple counties throughout California. The largest eradication effort is the infestation in Clear Lake which began in 1994. The program has successfully eradicated hydrilla from 15 counties since 1976.
If you find hydrilla, contact your local agricultural commissioner's office or the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) Pest Hotline: 1-800-491-1899.
Learn more about this invasive aquatic weed by visiting the links below:
- California Invasive Plant Council https://www.cal-ipc.org/plants/profile/hydrilla-verticillata-profile/
- Educational pamphlet on hydrilla https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/npdes/docs/aquatic-weeds/HydrillaPamphlet.pdf
- Hydrilla Eradication Program https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/ipc/hydrilla/hydrilla_hp.html
- Author: Erin Wright
No matter what you grow - trees, shrubs, flowers, veggies, turf areas - they all require some kind of irrigation in our Mediterranean climate. We had a good and late rainy season this year, so our plants were happy when the growing season kicked off and moisture ‘banks' were full. Dry and warm days are here, so now is a good time to test your sprinkler and irrigation systems to keep your garden happy and beautiful. Watering is one of the key cultural problems (culture in gardening means those activities involved in siting, selecting and caring for plants) master gardeners will ask about as they help to diagnose plant problems. Proper watering can keep some plant problems under control. Keeping ahead of irrigation problems by checking each sprinkler, drip head, or micro sprayer in your garden will ensure your plants receive the proper water to thrive and provide beauty, shade and food for your summer enjoyment.
Use this handy checklist and basic troubleshooting guide to check your watering system.
Warm Season Irrigation Checklist
Walk Your Garden
A visual inspection can help you identify problems with your irrigation system.
- Look for stunted or wilted plants that indicate a clogged or misaimed emitter or sprinkler.
- Turf areas will turn a dull gray color as they get too dry. Conduct a sprinkler/irrigation station test to reveal if there is enough water coverage for that spot. To test, turn on each irrigation station in sequence and observe the results.
- Check your plants for pests since plants suffering from under watering or over watering are more susceptible to pests and disease.
- Pay special attention to how much water is distributed during the station/zone test (see details below). Observe if all the plants are getting sufficient water, or if there is pooling under the plants or runoff onto the sidewalks
- Check any historic problem areas to ensure adequate irrigation coverage.
Irrigation Controls/Timers
If you have an automated sprinkler timer, here are the things to check as you head into the new growing season.
- If you turned off the system for the winter, turn the system back on.
- Replace the battery if your timer has one.
- Set the clock to the proper time and year.
- Check the timing for each valve and zone program
- Set time based on plant needs. You can find watering guidelines below in the Resources section.
- Set watering days and times of the week to match your water agency's watering guidelines/restrictions.
- Test each station/zone on your sprinkler timer (see below for troubleshooting repairs)
Sprinklers
Your station test from above should have helped you identify problems with your system.
- Replace broken sprinkler head “geysers” with a new sprinkler head. Most common sprinklers are easy to replace by untwisting the sprinkler from the riser (the part attached to underground piping) and replacing with the same type. Your sprinkler type may allow you to replace just the watering head. Check the manufacturer's website for full instructions.
- Use the same type of sprinkler in each zone. Not all popup sprinklers deliver the same volume.
- Use Teflon tape in the threads of the riser to ensure a leak-free seal.
- Adjust the sprinkler radius and spray pattern to get full coverage to reduce dry areas and water waste. You can find instructions for sprinkler adjustments on the sprinkler manufacturer's website as many offer instructional videos for the DIYer.
- Modern or smart sprinkler timers offer advanced settings to optimize how you water your garden. One feature, ‘cycle and soak' allows you to divide the total irrigation time into shorter intervals so the water has time to soak in. This setting is valuable for lawn areas as it promotes deep watering for root health. This also works well in sloped yards, raised beds, or heavy soils, preventing wasteful runoff. Even if your system doesn't have this feature, you can schedule several short consecutive watering times that provide the same effect.
Drip Systems
- Clean or replace clogged micro-spray heads.
- Adjust micro-spray head aim and coverage area. Squirrels, household pets and other garden visitors can knock them out of aim.
- Listen for weird squeaks, hums, whistles and gushing water noise that indicate a broken or missing drip emitter.
- Look for hard water buildup which can reduce water volume. Clean off or replace the emitter.
- Replace the broken emitter with an exact match.
- Join torn or broken drip pipes with connector pieces.
- Check that the supply tubing ends are closed to allow the system to build pressure.
- Adjust the drip system to deliver water where your plants need it now vs. when they were planted. Be sure to apply water to the entire root area. Mature plants may need another drip head or two added for adequate irrigation.
Add additional drip heads as needed for maturing landscape. Consult your irrigation design and manufacturer for the number of drip heads each zone can support. - Remove drip lines and heads in areas where they are no longer needed. It's easy to install a plug in the supply tubing.
Garden Hose and Watering Cans
If you water with a hose and watering can, don't let your trusty garden friends let you down when you most need them!
- Fully unreel your hose and inspect it for holes and cracks, smooth out hose kinks if you can and inspect bulging sides for failure. Repair or replace as needed.
- Replace hose rings at the faucet to get a tight drip-free fit.
- Replace hose rings in watering tools - wands, spray heads to keep the flow strong.
- Clean debris from watering can, inspect for holes, clogged spout and sprinkler head.
With this checklist, you have likely identified a few adjustments to your system before the temperatures soar. Continue to monitor your system for problems and make timely repairs for the best health of your garden and to avoid a surprisingly large water bill.
Resources
- Irrigating fruit and shade trees and shrubs
- Watering calculators from the Center for Landscape Urban Horticulture.
- UC Guide to Healthy Lawns
- Cultural tips for trees, shrubs and woody plants
- EBMUD Lawn and Landscape Watering Schedule (opens a pdf document)
Have a gardening question?
We'll help. You can reach us by:
- Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
- Using our online form.
- By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
- In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
We miss the late Robbin Thorp, 1933-2019, distinguished emeritus professor of entomology at UC Davis, who co-authored Bumble Bees of North America: an Identification Guide (Princeton University Press, 2014).
He loved to share his expertise on bumble bees, which originated more than 100 million years ago. But their distribution and diversity are not well known, he used to tell us.
Bumble bees are just one of the some 20,000 species of bees that populate the world. Of that number, however, only about 250 species are bumble bees, and they all belong to the genus Bombus.
Some 46 different species of bumble bees reside in North America, north of Mexico, Thorp related for a Bug Squad blog posted on July 10, 2014.
In their book, lead author Paul Williams and co-authors Thorp, Leif Richardson and Sheila Colla published information about bumble bees and their history, plant favorites, distribution maps, up-to-date taxonomy, and extensive keys to identify the many color patterns of the species.
They list sites to spot bumble bees:
- farms and gardens with a diversity of flowering crops and herbs
- hay fields
- roadside ditches
- windbreaks with good abundance and diversity of “weedy” flowering plants, such as clovers and vetches
- wetlands and wet meadows
- hardwood forests
- mountain meadows, and
- urban parks and gardens
The primary species found in Yolo County, Thorp related, are:
- Yellow-faced bumble bee, now known as the Vosnesensky bumble bee, Bombus vosnesenskii
- Yellow bumble bee, Bombus californicus, now known as Bombus fervidus
- Black-tailed bumble bee, Bombus melanopygus, formerly known as Bombus edwardsii. This is the first to fly in the winter and spring.
- Crotch bumble bee, Bombus crotchii, a short-tongued species
- Van Dyke bumble bee, Bombus vandykei, a medium long-tongued species
Lately we've been observing B. vosnesenskii, and B. fervidus, B. melanopygus in our pollinator garden in Vacaville, Solano County.
Currently, B. fervidus favors the rock purslane, Calandrina grandiflora. What a joy to see!
- Author: Lauren Fordyce
Aedes mosquitoes can transmit some of the most debilitating and deadly mosquito-borne pathogens to humans, such as Zika virus, dengue virus, chikungunya virus, and yellow fever virus. One Aedes species is also capable of transmitting heartworm to dogs. These invasive mosquitoes are now present in many regions of California, from Shasta County to San Diego County. View a map of Aedes distribution by county.
The yellow fever mosquito (Aedes aegypti), the Asian tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus), and the Australian backyard mosquito (Aedes notoscriptus) are unlike most native mosquitoes. They prefer to bite during the day, especially around your legs and ankles. Adults are black with white stripes on their legs and back.
Many Aedes mosquitoes live in close contact with people and can breed in backyards and even inside homes. They are known as “container breeding mosquitoes” because they lay eggs in small containers, such as flowerpots or old tires. Eggs are laid in moist areas just above the water surface, can overwinter, and are resistant to drying so may remain viable for months or longer.
How can you protect yourself?
In many areas of California, public Mosquito and Vector Control Districts aim to keep mosquito numbers down to tolerable levels. You can aid their efforts by eliminating mosquito breeding sources around your home. This includes keeping fine mesh screens on windows and doors in good condition, draining standing water or treating it with Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Bti), and wearing mosquito repellents and protective clothing outdoors.
Learn more about invasive Aedes mosquitoes and how to protect yourself by visiting the following resources:
- UC IPM Pest Notes: Mosquitoes: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7451.html
- Mosquito repellent information from the California Department of Public Health: https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/CID/DCDC/Pages/Mosquito-Repellent.aspx
- Interactive map of Aedes distribution in California: https://cdphdata.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=57367199287a4d18a2cecf107854255b
- Invasive Aedes fact sheet from the Mosquito and Vector Control Association of California: https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:US:908f4b9e-8266-47b3-9e3d-ec165913fc7f?viewer%21megaVerb=group-discover
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
In images, text, and analogies.
“Just like in a honey bee colony, it takes a team to win an award," he said, and graciously proceeded to thank all those who made it possible. Family, friends, students, postdoctoral fellows, colleagues, staff and more. Or, as he said "work performed by the cast of thousands deserve the distinguished research award."
Leal, former professor and chair of the Department of Entomology (now the Department of Entomology and Nematology) joined the Department of Molecular and Cellular Biology faculty in 2013. He is first UC Davis faculty member to win Academic Senate's trifecta of coveted awards: Distinguished Teaching Award for Undergraduate Teaching (2020), Distinguished Scholarly Public Service Award (2022) and now, the Faculty Distinguished Research Award.
A week before the seminar, Leal was elected to the National Academy of Sciences.
“Dr. Leal is an internationally recognized entomologist and a world leader in his field for his groundbreaking and transformative research in insect olfaction and chemical ecology,” said UC Davis distinguished professor Bruce Hammock, who nominated Leal for the Faculty Distinguished Research Award.
Leal credits Hammock, a 25-year friend and colleague, as instrumental in “luring” him from his tenured position in the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries, Japan, to the Department of Entomology (now the Department of Entomology and Nematology) in 2000. A native of Brazil, Leal received his Ph.D. in applied biochemistry from the University of Tsukuba, Japan, with subsequent postdoctoral training in entomology and chemical ecology at the National Institute of Sericultural and Entomological Science and Cornell University, respectively.
In his letter of nomination, Hammock pointed out "I especially applaud him for elucidating the mode of action of the insect repellent DEET, developed in 1946 and known as ‘the gold standard of repellents.' Its mode of action remained an enigma for six decades until Walter's discovery. In researching the neurons in mosquito antennae sensitive to DEET, he isolated the first DEET-sensitive odorant receptor, paving the way for the development of better repellents.”
Leal's analogy of bees working together to succeed, just like what occurs in a successful lab, is spot on. The worker bees inside the hive perform specific duties: nurse maids, nannies, royal attendants, builders, architects, foragers, dancers, honey tenders, pollen packers, propolis or "glue" specialists, air conditioning and heating technicians, guards, and undertakers.
As an aside, Leal mentioned that one research project in his lab involved his daughter Helena, honey bees and her shampoo. “Helena always said the bees were bothering her and then when we collected the volatiles from her, we noticed that there was a contaminant, isoamyl acetate,” Leal told the crowd. “To make a long story short, isoamyl acetate is a chemical that elicits a very aggressive behavior. It's called a sting pheromone known from the early 1960s, and we figured out that that chemical was coming from a shampoo that she was using at that time--the so-called Aussie. So, she stopped using that shampoo and there was no problem with the bees anymore.”
Read more about his lecture here and watch his lecture at https://youtu.be/HkfhsYQE5bI.