- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
If you visited the horticulture building during the Dixon May Fair (the four-day fair traditionally ends on Mother's Day), you probably saw a team of UC Master Gardeners answering questions from fairgoers and handing out literature.
The UC Master Gardener Program, founded in 1980 and part of the UC Agriculture and Natural Resources (UC ANR), is directed by Missy Gable. The members share a passion for gardening and environmental stewardship, as noted on their website. "UC Master Gardeners are rooted in education and grown in-service! In exchange for training from the University, UC Master Gardeners offer volunteer services and outreach to the general public in more than 1,286 demonstration, community and school gardens across 53 California counties. Last year 6,154 active UC Master Gardener volunteers donated 446,237 hours, and 6.8+ million hours have been donated since the program's inception."
"Our mission is simple: To extend research-based knowledge and information on home horticulture, pest management, and sustainable landscape practices to the residents of California. We stand guided by our core values and strategic initiatives, aiming to inspire, educate, and build communities of eco-conscious gardeners."
The team at the Dixon May Fair mostly fielded questions about vegetable crops--tomatoes proved to be a popular topic. They distributed information from the UC Integrated Pest Management (UC IPM) Program.
If you missed them, the enthusiastic team of Master Gardeners will be back next year. Same fair, same building, same booth...and with some of the same questions asked by fairgoers--"I have a question about planting tomatoes..." You can also contact the UC Solano Master Gardeners via their website. Jennifer Baumbach serves as the program coordinator for both Solano and Yolo counties.
- Author: Lauren Fordyce
Indoor food waste bins (also known as kitchen bins or compost bins) have become a popular addition to Californian homes. They are a great way to collect food scraps and divert food waste from landfills, but they can sometimes attract pest insects like maggots, ants, and fruit flies. Below are some tips for keeping a pest-free food waste bin:
- Empty and clean indoor food waste bins frequently. Dump the food waste into your outdoor compost pile, drop it off at a composting facility, or place it into your municipal green waste bin. Emptying your indoor bin frequently (even if it's not full) can make it less attractive to pests and prevent flies from developing inside. Once empty, rinse the bin and clean it with soap and water before putting it back on the counter. Be sure to check the bin for any fly maggots or pupae stuck to the sides; scrape them off if found.
- Keep your bin or food scraps in the freezer. Putting your food waste in the freezer prevents it from breaking down and smelling. It can also kill any pest insects and prevents them from infesting your food waste bin.
- Place food scraps in a paper bag, wrap in newspaper, or use a compostable bag before placing in your organics or green waste bin for collection. Don't use a regular plastic bag since these are not biodegradable. This can keep the inside of your bins cleaner, but also reduce moisture which maggots need to survive. Excess moisture can also make your bin smell.
- Choose a bin with a tight-fitting lid. Prevent pests from being able to get into the bin by choosing a food waste bin with a secure lid. If your bin has ventilation holes at the top, choose an appropriately sized charcoal filter to cover the openings. Inspect the filter frequently for any fly maggots or pupae.
For more information about controlling indoor pests, visit the UC IPM household pests page.
Check with your local composting program for more tips on maintaining a food waste bin or visit CalRecycle's Organic Materials Management website at https://calrecycle.ca.gov/Organics/.
/span>
- Author: Ryan Daugherty
I recently helped one of our local student gardens install a drip irrigation system in some raised beds. During the installation, I had to explain why we were using ½” tubing for most of our system instead of ¼”. Some believed that using the smaller tubing would give us better pressure, like putting your thumb over the mouth of a garden hose. I explained why this would actually result in less pressure and worse water distribution throughout our system. This misconception is common, so I thought I'd discuss it here.
If you think there's no way I'm about to talk physics in a garden blog, prepare to be amazed!
First, a review. Friction is the force that opposes the sliding or rolling of one solid object over another. There are a few different types of friction, but the one most relevant to our irrigation lines is kinetic friction.
Kinetic friction is the force that opposes the movement of two objects in contact while in motion. Think of it like using the brakes on a bicycle: when you pull on the brake lever, the brake pads contact the wheel, and the kinetic friction between the pads and the wheel opposes the wheel's forward motion, eventually stopping the bike. As water moves through our irrigation lines, it is in contact with the inside of the tubing. The kinetic friction between the water and the tubing surface opposes the water's forward motion, resulting in a loss of pressure. In irrigation lingo, we call this "pressure loss from friction" or just "friction loss."
If you could see a cross-section of your tubing while water was running through it, you wouldn't see a solid cylinder of water. Instead, it's more turbulent, with empty space, bubbles, and vortices. If the amount of water moving through the line remains constant and we decrease our tubing diameter, that empty space shrinks, and more water comes into contact with the sides of the tubing. More surface area of the water in contact with more surface area of the tubing generates more friction, resulting in more pressure loss.
Like tapping the brakes on a bicycle, there isn't much friction generated when it's just your thumb at the end of a garden hose. The real pressure loss comes from consistent friction over distance, like holding the brakes down until the bike stops. Multiply even a small amount of friction over any real distance, and you're looking at significant pressure loss.
In response to this, drip irrigation experts developed “rules” or guidelines for drip irrigation. For ¼” tubing, we call it the 30/30 rule: no more than 30 feet in any given run of ¼” line, drawing no more than 30 gallons per hour (GPH). More than 30 feet generates too much friction loss, and hydraulically only so much water can move through any given volume of tubing, hence 30 GPH. For ½” tubing, it's the 200/200 rule, for ¾” it's 480/480, and so on. As our system grows in length and demand, our tubing diameter has to increase accordingly.
If we don't match our system to the length and demand, we risk poor distribution uniformity. We might have to overwater or underwater one part of our garden to properly water another, leading to water waste and poor plant health. For most home landscapes, 1/2" tubing works well since we seldom run more than 200 feet on a single line.
These principles are simple but powerful, and by understanding them, you can make more thoughtful decisions in the design of your drip systems to get the most out of them.
- Author: Belinda Messenger-Sikes
The emerald ash borer (EAB) may be beautiful, but it is the most destructive forest pest ever seen in North America. Hundreds of millions of ash trees across 36 states and 5 Canadian provinces have been killed by this invasive insect. Fortunately, EAB has not been found in California, but it was discovered in Oregon in 2022, the first time this insect has been detected on the West Coast.
Emerald Ash Borer Awareness Week is May 20-26th of 2024. During this week, the Don't Move Firewood campaign is offering SIX webinars over the first three days (May 20, 21, 22). Webinar topics include exciting new developments in ash tree breeding and resistance, research findings on best management strategies, and important updates on management responses to EAB. Register for any or all of these free webinars at https://www.dontmovefirewood.org/eabweek2024/.
If you think you've seen the pest or ash tree damage caused by an EAB infestation, report it to your local County Agricultural Commissioner's Office or the California Department of Food and Agriculture at https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/reportapest/.
/span>
- Author: Ryan Daugherty
It's a common frustration that anyone with a garden or landscape can relate to. I think that the temptation to apply undiluted herbicide stems from a widely held belief that the language on the label about human safety, environmental hazards, and the mixing instructions are just veiled regulatory activism designed to water down an effective product, sacrificing potency in service of some ulterior green agenda.
If you're like my friend and the conventional concerns aren't persuasive in the face of your weed woes, you may find it more persuasive (like he did) to know how declining to mix herbicides can actually make them a less effective tool in your quest for weed vengeance.
Misapplication Can Be a Waste of Your Time and Money
Herbicides can be broken up into several different categories, but two big ones are contact vs. systemic. A contact herbicide damages only the parts of the plant that it touches. Systemic herbicides translocate, meaning they move throughout the plant and poison the entire plant regardless of the point of contact.
Many well-known, home-use, brand-name weed killers sold at your garden center are systemic herbicides. When you use an excessive dose of systemic herbicide, it can damage the conductive tissue at the point of contact. This means that the material doesn't get translocated effectively and ends up working more like a contact herbicide, burning the parts of the plant it came into contact with and leaving others healthy and able to regrow. Systemics typically cost more than contact herbicides, making your cost per application higher.
Using systemics undiluted (and thus using more product) means that your cost per application is even higher than that. If you didn't mix your herbicide, you may not get the control that you need, and perhaps worse, you will have paid a premium to do it! This wastes your time and money. Don't do it to yourself. (And it's not legal and could be unsafe to you or animals.)
Microbial Breakdown
Some herbicides boast longer control for weeks or months. In the pesticide industry, this is called “residual action” or “pre-emergent action” in the weed control game: an herbicide that continues to work for a period of time after the application to ward off future weed incursions. Several things affect an herbicide's residual action, but one of the big ones is microbial breakdown.
Soil microbes are microscopic life forms like bacteria, fungi, protozoa, etc., that live in the soil. They break down all kinds of materials in the soil into their basic parts for use in their own growth and development, with different microbes being better adapted to breaking down one kind of material or another. Those materials include herbicides, which is great news because it means that herbicides don't hang around in our soils forever. However, it can be bad news when we abuse herbicides.
When we over-apply our herbicide either through dosage or application frequency, we could create a microbial imbalance in the soil. We kill some species of microbes vulnerable to the material while encouraging the population of others that are adapted to thrive on breaking down that specific material. In addition to the implications for the health of your soils, this imbalance also means that our residual herbicides are actually shorter-lived as they come into contact with a super population of soil microbes that break it down more rapidly. This is called “enhanced microbial degradation,” where pesticides are broken down more rapidly than they would be under normal conditions, even within a few hours. Like systemics, residual/pre-emergent herbicides typically come at a premium price, and your money can be wasted if your applications start becoming dinner time for a booming population of hungry microbes.
It will also mean that you won't get the longer-lasting control that you wanted and paid for, making breakout weeds and headaches more likely.
Spray Adjuvants
When you buy an herbicide, you aren't just paying for the active ingredient(s); you're also getting what they call the adjuvant package. Adjuvants are materials added to the herbicide formulation not necessarily to make the poison more poisonous, but to enhance the act of applying the herbicide itself.
If you were an herbicide manufacturer and you had a product that would work great if it didn't just bead up on the plant's surface, you would add an adjuvant to reduce the surface tension of the product. If it is too thin and runs off the plant before it can deliver the material, then there's an adjuvant for that too. Does it break down and become inert at certain soil or water pH levels? Does it gum up sprayers? Does it foam? Are the droplets too fine and prone to drift? Adjuvants have you covered. There's an adjuvant for nearly any application.
When manufacturers formulate their adjuvant packages, they do so with the assumption that you will follow the mixing instructions on the label. The adjuvants are designed to work best at the concentrations listed. Some of them are even activated by mixing them with a solvent like water or oil. If you apply the herbicide without mixing, then the active ingredient may not be delivered, or its mode of action hindered, all because you thought you knew how to use the product better than the people who designed and tested it.
Manufacturers want their products to work and to make you a satisfied customer willing to repeat your business. The label is how manufacturers communicate to their customers how to use their product for best results. When herbicides are used judiciously and responsibly, they can be powerful tools, especially when integrated with other weed management practices such as mulching, hoeing, and sensible irrigation practices. But don't skip the label!
Failure to follow label guidelines can lead to unintended consequences not just for the environment but for your busy schedule and your wallet as well.
/h3>/h3>/h3>