If you have an older rose that you wish to duplicate it may be possible to start a new plant by taking a cutting. The technique is not difficult, although some types of roses respond better to this method of propagation than others. Miniature roses are usually successful, and are a good place to learn the technique.

Generally speaking most roses that are sold nowadays have been grafted often using a budding technique. This is done because a hardier more disease resistant rootstock can transfer these benefits to the flowering part of the plant which has been chosen for beautiful flowers or outstanding perfume, but which may not be a robust grower on its own roots. It is a reliable way to propagate roses commercially, but cuttings can also be propagated. The most common rootstock in this area is the ubiquitous 'Dr. Huey' rose which certainly gives vigor but also suckers prolifically, and all too often outgrows the chosen rose to dominate with its red flowers!

If planning to try your hand at propagating from cuttings you must make sure that the parent plant that you are planning to use is not covered by a Plant Patent. These patents are awarded to hybridizers and developers of new varieties in order to protect the tremendous investment that they make in time and money as they bring these varieties to market. Plant patents last for 20 years, and it is illegal to asexually propagate a plant during the period that the patent covers. Rose labels and plant catalogs, including those online, almost always indicate if the cultivar is patented, or if a patent is pending. (It will sometimes say "PPAF" to indicate a patent.)

TO GROW A ROSE FROM A CUTTING YOU WILL NEED:

• A well-grown current year's stem that has finished flowering about 8” long for a hybrid tea rose, or 4”-5” for smaller landscape roses. It should be healthy, disease free, green and slightly flexible but not floppy, and should ideally have 4-5 leaf nodes. Place the bottom in water immediately after cutting. Old, woody stems are challenging to root.
• A large, clean pot of moisture retaining compost such as seed starting compost with a good proportion of vermiculite or perlite, or use a loose, commercial soilless potting mix.
• A cover of some sort to keep a humid environment around the cutting (a two liter soda bottle with the bottom cut out and the cap removed is ideal).
• A sharp knife or sharp pruners – sterilized with alcohol.
• Some rooting hormone. (not essential but produces better results)
• A stick or dibber for making planting holes.
• An area of bright light but out of direct sun. I have a north-facing greenhouse window in my kitchen which is ideal.
• A method of watering.
• Labels for each plant.

Method:

• Fill pot with soil, and water well so that it is evenly moist (but not wet).
• Make a hole in the soil 3”-4” deep and about the diameter of the stem to be planted.
• Put a little rooting hormone in a shallow container such as a jar lid.
• Prepare cutting material. Cut base of stem straight across just below a node and cut top off at an angle just above the 4^th or 5^th joint. Remove leaves from the bottom three nodes, but leave some leaves at the top of the stem. If these leaves are large cut them in half to reduce transpiration while the roots are forming.
• Dampen the bottom of the stem in water and dip it into the hormone rooting powder, then carefully place it into the prepared hole burying the bottom two nodes under the soil.
• Firm the soil round the stem.
• Cover with soda bottle without a cap, or place in a plastic bag with the top closed.
• Label with variety if known or description of flower.
• If your soil is well moistened there is no need to water again at this time, so that the rooting hormone does not get washed off.
• From this point on until roots are established it is important to make sure that the cutting does not dry out. I usually water from the bottom, but also keep an eye on the surface moisture.
• Roots may form in about 6 weeks, but more often take about 8 weeks, and once new growth has begun the cover can be removed and care is the same as for any young plant.

Cuttings of recently flowered stems.

Stems prepared for planting

In our climate in the Owens Valley I don't plant out the starts until the following spring, but if you have frost protection such as a cold frame and the plants are well grown they may over winter under such cover.

Many years ago an elderly neighbor who had a garden full of roses started them in the fall by digging a trench and putting well-rotted horse manure in the base, then placing a row of cuttings in the trench and back-filling. He had a wonderful success rate but my attempts to emulate this invariably failed. For now I will just stick to the flowerpot method which I know works. Of course there is always the option of sticking the cutting in a potato as touted on the Internet, but I have yet to see any positive results from that method!

 https://www.jacksonandperkins.com/how-to-propagate-roses/a/how-to-propagate-roses/

 https://www.rosenotes.com/2012/03/dr-huey-you-sucker-you.html

During a February work party at the ESVC, we noticed that the roses were already beginning to bloom. That signaled “time to prune!” Accordingly, at our next work party, four Master Gardeners took the first steps at training and feeding the roses that line the entry at the ESVC.

The ESVC entry was designed to promote an arbor of yellow climbing roses.  A rose was planted at the base of each of the four pillars. Over the years, the roses have grown, but due to the Covid-19 shutdown and other circumstances, they had not been trained. At our work party, each Master Gardener worked on one of the four roses, and pruned to promote growth up and over the arbor.  Where possible, branches were draped over the arbor.  Pruning was designed to open the center of the rose and encourage upward growth, with an emphasis on no more than 3-4 major canes for each plant.  We finished the day with fertilizer and a good soaking.  Two Master Gardeners returned the following week to complete the pruning and training efforts.

Less than two months later, the results of our efforts were apparent.  Lush cascades of yellow blooms greet visitors to the ESVC. Some of the roses have started to spread on the overhead arbor.  We have removed the grasses that were invading the water wells at the bottom of each plant and fertilized again.  Only time will tell whether the roses will have a second and even a third bloom this season.  By next year, with additional growth, training, pruning, and feeding, we anticipate an even more spectacular display of roses.

By Cindy Watter, UC Master Gardener of Napa County

After the sedate revelry of our pandemic purgatory (and a happy new year to us all), it is time to get back to work in the garden. We have had a few rains, and now would be a good time to prune our roses and tidy up their areas, to help them look their best next spring and summer.

I once taught a rose pruning workshop in Yountville and made two terrible mistakes. The first, and worst, was being frivolous when someone asked what would happen if she didn't prune her roses. I joked that she could end up in a place that was uncomfortably warm. That was wrong. Actually, depending on the roses, and how long you go between prunings, the answers are: a) nothing; and b) something.

You can go for five years without pruning a Cecile Brunner (a climbing polyantha which has many clusters of small flowers), and it will put forth its fluffy pink blooms same as ever. However, if you prune it just a bit after it blooms, you will get a more abundant repeat bloom during the summer.

On the other hand, a rose that is intended for cutting for vases or bouquets will produce larger blooms with sturdier stems if you prune it. These bushes are generally hybrid teas, grandifloras or floribundas, such as Double Delight or Julia Child. Hybrid teas were developed to have stronger stems than the original tea roses from Asia. Grandifloras (large flowers) and floribundas (many flowers on one stem) need strong stems to support all those petals.

The second mistake I made, and it was mortifying, was neglecting to sharpen my clippers before the workshop. Their dull edges would not penetrate the branches of a gnarled, twenty-years-neglected-and-completely-tangled rose, at least in my arthritic fingers. A nice man in the audience helped me out. It was probably a better learning experience that way, but still, sharpen your tools.

Another reason to prune is to remove branches with leaves that have mildew, fungus or rust. First, clean up the area around your roses and remove fallen rose leaves. This will keep winter rains from driving pathogens into the soil and is one of the most important things you can do for general garden health, because it lessens the chances of having to use fungicides later. Do not put these leaves in your home compost, which does not get hot enough to kill the pathogens. Of course you should wear gardening gloves while doing this work.

There are a couple of ways to approach pruning, depending on the purpose of your rose. If you want larger roses with sturdy stems for vase display, prune more aggressively. If you planted roses for landscaping, prune for shape. There are some common guidelines to follow, however.

Remove any damaged or cracked canes. Remove any canes that are thinner than a pencil. If canes are crossing, remove one.

Make clean cuts on a slant. (You sharpened your clippers, right?) All cuts should be above a bud. These cuts will heal so you don't need to paint anything on them. Make sure the center of the plant is open for good air circulation, with no crowding canes. You want to have a shape rather like a vase or an urn.

In general, prune back two-thirds of the growth. Some gardeners take it down even farther.

Roses grow well in Napa County. Even if, to your eyes, the newly shorn rose looks naked, relax. It will grow back better than ever.

Climbing roses shouldn't be pruned the first three years or so after planting. After that, remove all broken canes, leaving about six canes that you will trellis or tie to a form. Every year leave a few new canes and you will have a healthy climbing rose.

Many people are afraid they will destroy their roses if they prune them. Indeed, it is initially a shock to chop off what appear to be perfectly viable leaves and canes. I felt like a horticultural ogre the first time I did it. However, the wonderful thing about plants is that they renew themselves. Roses require a bit more care than our native plants and perennials, but they reward us with their stunning blooms.

Napa Library Talks: First Thursday of each month. Register to get Zoom link. Thursday, January 7: Bare Root Basics.

Free Rose Pruning and Winter Care Workshop: Saturday, January 9. Register for the Zoom link.

 Find UC ANR's Healthy Roses publication here.

Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.

For more information visit http://napamg.ucanr.edu or find us on Facebook or Instagram, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

Roses in the garden can be infected with a variety of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, leading to diseases like powdery mildew and rust. Roses may also be damaged by nutrient deficiencies and other environmental problems.

Rose leaves infected by rose rust. (Credit: Jack Kelly Clark)

This updated Pest Notes includes additional details about the biology and management of downy mildew and anthracnose, as well as information about emerging viral diseases. The authors also added new photos, references, and an updated list of fungicides.