“Kill your lawn!” has become a popular phrase and landscaping trend in recent years. Whether you are looking to completely remove your lawn or just renovate it, this article will give you useful information to help you decide how best to do away with your existing lawn and prepare for your new design.
There are many reasons someone might be looking to get rid of their lawn.
- Can be costly to maintain (water, landscapers, time, equipment, fertilizers, etc.)
- Aesthetics (desire a different look)
- Create habitat (plants for birds, pollinators, natural enemies, etc.)
- Replace groundcover (plant different grass type, install turfgrass alternative)
- Save water by using drought resistant or low-water needing plants
On the other hand, someone might decide to keep or install a new lawn for many reasons.
- Use by children and pets (soft outdoor area for moving around and playing)
- Can be low maintenance (compared to certain plant selections)
- Aesthetics (prefer the look of a lawn)
Whatever your reasoning for killing your existing lawn or removing sections of it, there are several methods you can use to do so, both chemical and non-chemical. You may also choose to use a combination of both.
Sheet mulching
A low-cost method for killing your lawn is to cover it with cardboard or several layers of newspaper. Closely mow the grass and place 1 to 3 layers of unwaxed cardboard or newspaper on top to prevent sunlight from allowing the grass to grow. Top with 1 to 2 inches of compost and 3 to 4 inches of mulch.
Soil solarization
This method works to “cook” the existing lawn by trapping heat from the sun under a clear plastic tarp. Intense sunlight and high temperatures are required for this method, so it is best done in the summer, in areas that receive full sun. Cloudy or foggy regions, or shady parts of the yard won't be as effectively killed. Dig out or closely mow the existing lawn. Wet the soil in the area that you intend to cover. Tightly cover with a clear plastic tarp. Leave the tarp on for 4 to 6 weeks, and maintain soil temperature below the tarp between 110º to 125°F. For more in-depth soil solarization instructions and information, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Soil Solarization for Gardens & Landscapes.
Hand-digging or machine use
You can remove a lawn manually by digging it out, using a sod cutter, or using a rototiller machine. These methods are more physically demanding so they are better for smaller spaces. Moisten the soil prior to removal to make it easier to dig or cut out. To dig out your lawn, use a flat shovel and dig parallel to the soil to remove the top 1 to 2 inches of lawn. A sod cutter can be rented to similarly remove the top 1 to 2 inches by cutting the lawn into strips.
Herbicide application
One of the quickest and less labor-intensive ways to kill an existing lawn is to apply a nonselective, systemic herbicide like diquat or glyphosate that will kill most weeds and the turfgrass and their roots. It may take up to 7 days after the application for the grass to completely absorb the material and plant damage to start showing. Depending on temperature, it can take up to 2 weeks for the entire lawn to die.
Herbicides that work on contact like acetic acid (vinegar) and ammonium salt of fatty acid (herbicidal soap) are not as efficient as they do not kill weeds and grasses to the root. Multiple applications of the contact herbicide are likely needed as well as hand-removing the plant material.
For more detailed information on lawn removal see Lawn Removal Methods by the UCCE Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.
You've successfully killed your lawn, now what?
If you want to reestablish your lawn and reseed, you'll need to think about irrigation, amending the soil (if needed), and choosing a grass variety that is best suited for your area and goals. To learn more about lawn renovation and how to establish and care for a new lawn, see the UC Guide to Healthy Lawns. If you're considering installing artificial turf (fake grass), evaluate the risks involved by visiting https://gba.org/blog/artificial-turf-fields-health-and-environmental-concerns/.
If you'd like to replace your lawn with mulch or rocks, see our Mulch resource page to learn about this option. Prior to applying wood or rock mulch to an area, you may want to place landscape fabric or sheet mulch (cardboard or paper) over the soil to prevent weeds and grasses from growing.
If you wish to replace your lawn with an alternative, like clover or thyme, see the Lawn & Lawn Alternatives resource from the UC Marin County Master Gardeners. For more information about replacing your lawn with flowering plants to attract pollinators and beneficial insects, or reduce water use, visit:
- UC Master Gardeners
- UC Davis Arboretum's Planting Plans
- California Native Plant Society's Native Plant Lists and Planners
- UC IPM Insectary Plants
- CA. Department of Water Resources Water Efficient Landscaping
Keep in mind that none of these methods will absolutely prevent weeds and grasses from invading your lawn or landscaped areas in the future. Keeping weeds out and preventing undesirable grassy areas from regrowing, requires diligence and a combination of control methods. To learn more about weed management in landscaped areas, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Landscapes. For weed management in lawns, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Lawns.
/h2>- Author: Anthony Presto
Residential wood burning is the largest single source of particulate matter pollution in the Valley during winter months. For this reason, the District's residential wood smoke reduction program imposes restrictions on the use of fireplaces, wood stoves, fire pits and chimneys. The District recommends using other methods to heat your home unless wood burning is your sole source of heat. For full details on the District's Residential Wood Smoke Reduction Program, visit www.valleyair.org/rule4901.
Another source of air pollution are small engines on gas-powered yard care equipment, which have no emission controls. One gas-powered lawn mower can pollute as much as 12 late-model cars.
For every gas-powered lawn or garden tool, there is an electric or manual alternative that works just as well.
The District's Clean Green Yard Machines yard care incentive program provides significant rebates on electric lawn mowers, trimmers, edgers, pole saws and chain saws. For details on these incentives visit www.valleyair.org/cgym.
In addition, the Valley Air District suggests using a rake or broom instead of a blower. Leaf blowers create particulate matter in the form of dust and can be a nuisance to your neighbors.
Anthony Presto is the Outreach & Communications Representative for the San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District
- Author: Gerry L Hernandez
Perennial vegetables and herbs for your garden
Personally, I am not a big vegetable gardener. I actually have a hard time growing zucchini. Now, don't laugh at me! If you are like me and love perennial plants then here is a list of great plants for you. All of these can be “inserted” into your landscape and look beautiful.
Perennial Vegetables
- Artichokes - Light afternoon shade in our hot valley. When I was growing up artichokes lined our driveway. I have artichokes in my garden now. Gophers can be a problem.
- Asparagus - The plants are tall, feathery and graceful. You will not get a lot of asparagus but the plant is beautiful!
- Cardoon - Similar to artichokes but grown for the edible stalks. This is also great in the landscape.
- Rhubarb - Needs partial shade in the valley. Great showy foliage for the garden.
Perennial Herbs
- Chives - Snip the leaves to use in the kitchen. Beautiful leaves and flowers. Great border plant.
- Lavender - Beautiful and very fragrant. Attracts bees to the garden. I have lavender in my garden and love it.
- Lemongrass - It will grow to about 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall. It looks like a tall clump of grass. Cut off the stem just above the crown and use in recipes. Yes, I have this in my yard and it is beautiful.
- Marjoram - 1-2 feet tall, great filler plant or ground cover for your landscape. Snip off a few leaves for cooking.
- Mint - Plants easily spread. Once you have mint you have mint forever. It is very fragrant.
- Oregano - Low growing ground cover plant. I have this one in a container and it produces a carpet of beautiful flowers.
- Rosemary - Who doesn't have rosemary in their garden? Great foundation plant, beautiful flowers and easy touse in recipes. Yes, I have a beautiful rosemary plant in my yard.
- Sage - Needs afternoon shade. Great gray color for the garden. I have sage and it can get a little scraggly, just keep it trimmed back.
- Sweet Bay - Can be a tree or shrub. Grows to 12 – 20 feet tall. Beautiful flowers. We had a bay tree growing up. Snip a leaf and throw in a soup.
- Tarragon - Needs light shade. French tarragon has rhizomes. It is best in a container.
- Thyme - Small plant with heavily scented leaves. Great in a rock garden.
Our next post will be about berries, vines and fruit trees.
- Author: Kathy Thomas-Rico
Cool, sunny spring mornings bring a visual and aural symphony to my neighborhood. Just the other day, I saw and heard this variety of fine-feathered friends in and around our yard:
- Harsh, assertive yet beautiful scrub jays. I can usually find my cat by following the yelling scrub jays.
- Twitchy, flighty but amazingly versatile mockingbirds. We have the world’s loneliest mockingbird in our area. He goes through his repertoire of songs 24/7, in hopes of finding a mate. Alas, no luck yet.
- Lovely, perfectly named mourning doves, always in a pair. Their coordinated flights are graceful yet pensive.
- Pert and perky finches and sparrows, arguing over a cache of ants or seeds.
- Chatty, glossy black and super smart crows and ravens. They do sky-high battle with the owls and hawks. Quite a sight.
- Acrobatic nuthatches, defying gravity by turning sideways and upside down on vertical surfaces as they forage.
- Hummingbirds of all kinds, glittering in the sun while they forage at the salvias. I have had hummers stop by the business end of my hose, just 2 feet away from my hand, as I water out back. What a gift! Stunning little creatures.
- Hawks, mostly red-taileds, riding the thermals and screaming their primeval cries. They often cruise by our chicken run, always hopeful of a quick fly-thru meal.
- California quail — lots of quail — sending out a sentinel, then the covey emerging, crossing the street and setting up shop in the shrubs. There’s a daily commute, across our street in the morning, then a return trip around dusk.
I am not a birder, but I sure do enjoy watching the local winged wonders. What about your yard? If it’s devoid of chirps and screeches, perhaps you need to put in some bird-friendly landscaping. This guide offers plenty of suggestions to get you started, if you’re closer to the Bay. Here’s another that is more specific to the Sacramento Valley.
I know birds can be voracious pests to backyard gardeners, especially if you’re growing fruits or nuts. Heck, we had to build Fort Knox-like frames of bird netting for our raised beds in order to protect our tomatoes. This publication is full of good ideas to keep the birds away from your future harvest.
- Author: Kathy Thomas-Rico
Every yard has its microclimates, pockets of sunlight or shade, dry or wet soil, wind exposure or calm. Learning the microclimates of your yard takes time and watchfulness, and maybe the guidance of certain plants.
Take the bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), for instance. We have several of the evergreen perennials planted hither and yon in our back yard. Some were here and already established when we moved in back in 2002. Some I have added over the years. And, quite honestly, some are thriving while others are languishing.
It’s a matter of microclimates, if you ask me. And the ever-changing nature of said microclimates, as the shrubs and trees within grow taller, throwing more shade and taking up more of the irrigation.
For instance, some of our long-established birds of paradise are located in a small “glen” of hypericum, pittosporum and rather aggressive Euphorbia. This spot has a protected eastern exposure, is watered regularly and gets a healthy sprinkling of fertilizer twice a year. Over the years, the birds of paradise have grown larger, but they flower rather weakly. Quite possibly the plants need division; I think the nearby pittosporums sop up all the irrigation and block the spring sun required for flowering.
Just 20 feet away stands another bird of paradise. It is a sight for sore eyes: Three-plus feet tall, healthy gray-green leaves, and a profusion of stunning orange and purple flowers. This plant sits in a sunny spot with a western exposure, next to our tiny back lawn. Its neighbors are New Zealand flax, a Chinese hackberry and a sprinkling of Santa Barbara daisies (Erigeron karvinskianus) at its feet. Admittedly, this plant is younger than the others, but it stands in full afternoon sun and has survived several frosts over the years.
Go figure. Maybe the birds of paradise are telling me it’s time to rearrange a few microclimates.