by Melody Kendall
• Begin by examining your garden to see what worked, didn't work, what could be done differently or better.
In my garden: staking my chrysanthemums and giving my lantana a chance to recover
• Consider plant revisions (species and location changes, size considerations, color, texture, pollinator activity, and adding accessories like rocks and logs).
In my garden: get rid of the morning glories and wait to see what recovers from spring frosts
• Select plants for fall installation while the soil is warm and to take advantage of winter rains. Plant spring blooming bulbs. Warm soil allows microorganisms to thrive so your new fall plants will establish their roots before the cold sets in.
In my garden: get my spring bulbs settled into the garden beds
• Leave the leaves! They are free mulch and provide winter shelter for creatures and insects. Plus, the leaves protect the soil from erosion and run off. Exceptions to this would be in fire prone areas where leaf and debris removal is a must.
In my garden: I'm going to leave the leaves
• Eliminate as many weeds as possible.
In my garden: An ongoing effort in any garden at any time.
• Aerate the soil with a garden fork, but don't till — it damages root systems. Aeration will allow water and air penetration, essentials for healthy soil and plants. Avoid soil compaction by limiting where you walk.
In my garden: Gently poke holes in the soil with a wide tined garden fork while watching out for the irrigation lines
• Nutrients in the soil are depleted in the spring through summer months. Help the soil replenish nutrients by adding compost and slow-release organic amendments.
In my garden: Application of compost and manure mixture
• Remove diseased plants by cutting them off at soil level. Remove any diseased leaves under the plants, such as those with black spot, fungus, and more that will infect new and existing plants in spring.
In my garden: Cut the stalks of the dahlias to the ground and assess the needs of the perennials and shrubs
• Leave deadheads on plants that have seeds for birds to eat.
In my garden: Leaving the Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia) until late winter
• Cut off broken or dead tree branches for safety, tree health, and appearance.
In my garden: Shape the trees
• Remember, to maintain a vibrant habitat space, avoid the use of pesticides and herbicides.
In my garden I don't use any pesticides or herbicides. I feel like I'm contributing to the environment by avoiding their use and besides having a dog. That is not to say that pesticides and herbicides don't have their place, just not in my garden
Put in the effort now and your spring garden planning will be more satisfying. It sounds like a lot of sweat and energy, but plug into your latest audio book while you enjoy the fresh air and accomplish these preparations in anticipation for the next growing season.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Mel Kendall
Information links: UC IPM
Weeds http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/weeds_intro.html
Powdery mildew http://ipm.ucanr.edu/QT/powderymildewcard.html
Chrysanthemum http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FLOWERS/chrysanthemum.html
Zinnia http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FLOWERS/zinnia.html
Lantana http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/lantana.html
UCMG Sonoma County
Smoke Tree https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Cotinus/
UCMG Tulare/King Counties-Gaillardia https://ucanr.edu/datastoreFiles/268-497.pdf
by Bob Niklewicz PT MG.
Figure 1 shows the 27 bones of the hand and wrist. Figure 2 shows the relationship of the blood vessels, nerves and muscles in the hand. Except for a few of the muscles that are in the palm of the hand, the finger muscles start in the forearm. Figure 3 indicates where a person will feel pain or numbness when they suffer from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS).
To get a “handle” on why these awkward hand postures are a problem is found in Figures 7 & 8. If you look at the numbers of Figure 7, the top it says “Neutral” and just below 0° and below that 100% of grip strength, the best and strongest position of your hand.
If you have an existing hand and/or wrist issue, or suspect one is starting, consider ergonomically engineered tools. Below are examples of tools that can reduce the risk of wrist injuries. They are available online or in larger box stores.
Remember, your hands are so much a part of your life you may not give them the protection and respect they deserve. You do not have to hurt to have fun in the garden.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Figure 1: Vectorstock.com; figures 2-8 Dreamstime; figures 9-12 Bob Niklewicz
Information links:
UHSBerkeley.edu-ergonomics tips for gardening at home
https://uhs.berkeley.edu/sites/default/files/ergonomics_tips_for_gardening_at_home.pdf
- Author: Jane Callier
by Jane Callier
One of the first things we learn in Master Gardener training (in Napa County) is our mediterranean climate. This plant is a “ringer” for plants typical of this summer-dry climate although the plant is said to be from a more central area of South America. Water-saving strategies include leathery oval foliage, its leaves are on the small side, even the oval shape are all aimed at saving water. Today, New Zealand is by far the major producer of commercial Feijoas. Since the early 20th century New Zealand has been developing new and improved varieties of Feijoas. Other countries with a mediterranean climate that grow Feijoas commercially are Chile, Turkey and Australia.
These plants were previously termed as Feijoa sellowiana, but botanical research has determined that it fits more accurately in a different genus. The scientific name has been updated to Acca sellowiana, but the fruits are still called Feijoas.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Jane Callier
References:
www.feijoaaddiction.com/feijoafacts
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/acca-sellowiana/
https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/feijoa-sellowiana
by Rainer Hoenicke
Aware of the invasive nature of this species of running bamboo, I installed a 30 foot long corrugated PVC barrier to keep the three bamboo plants from spreading under the fence to our neighbor's yard and into our former veggie garden area. Little did I know then that the bamboo rhizomes would be worse than Audrey II in the cult movie “Little Shop of Horrors.” Within about three years, those three plants had formed a wonderful privacy screen 20-25 feet high. Unfortunately the lower branches of this dense hedge-like barrier was hiding the fact that the yellow bamboo rhizomes had found a way to take root in the new soil formed by decomposing leaf litter and to creep over the root barrier. The invasion of my former veggie-growing area had begun.
Wow, what a job that was. When a plant is designated "invasive" beware!
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Rainer Hoenicke
Information Links:
USDA Forest Service-Weed of the week-invasive Golden Bamboo https://www.invasive.org/weedcd/pdfs/wow/golden-bamboo.pdf
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension-Growing Bamboo https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/bamboo2019.html
UC ANR-Bamboo http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/bamboo.html
Missouri Botanical Garden-Controlling Bamboo
UC IPM- pittosporum http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/pittosporum.html
Just like we periodically redo the interior design of our homes, we may also need to redo the landscaping around our homes. A wide range of reasons may prompt a redesign. Perhaps you've inherited a yard from previous owners whose landscaping is just not your style. Maybe you've added an extension onto your house that requires making changes to your landscaping. Maybe you want to eliminate your lawn. Or maybe your landscaping was done decades ago, and it's simply old and tired.
For whatever reason, there's a way to simplify the process of landscape design, which can seem overwhelming to those who've never attempted it before. Basically, landscape design aims to combine practicality with aesthetics. A more formal definition of the purpose of landscape design: “the creation of exterior living spaces, [integrating] a variety of elements to achieve functional, beautiful spaces for outdoor living.”
• Unity – consistency, elements fit together to create a whole
• Repetition – placement of the same type of element – for example, boulders-- in various places throughout the landscape; repetition helps create a sense of unity
• Proportion – choosing sizes of elements that are neither too large nor too small relative to the size of your house and other permanent features of the landscape
• Focal points – one of more central points of interest
• Contrast – choosing plants that contrast in color and texture
• Simplicity
The design process really begins with thinking about and deciding on your goals for the new landscape. What functions do you want it to serve? Do you want low maintenance? To attract pollinators? To reduce your water bill? What style do you want — cottage-garden, minimalist and contemporary, woodsy? Clarifying your goals is key.
Once you've established your goals, the following steps will guide you through the process:
• Do a site analysis – Where are the hot spots? The wet spots? Shade? Wind direction?
• Measure the site – Measure house, hardscape, and permanent trees or shrubs
• Sketch a site plan – The site plan should include all the elements you measured. Permanent plants should be drawn at their maximum width. This requires only simple tools, like graph paper, rulers, triangles, and circle templates, available in art and office supply stores. Make copies of this base plan.
• Do a conceptual plan – Using your base plan, sketch out different ideas or concepts for placing hardscapes and groups of plants.
Planting should take place only after you've prepared the soil by adding generous amounts of compost. Avoid using chemicals and synthetics that harm the soil's fertility. Till the soil as little as possible. Install drip irrigation for water efficiency. Mulch after planting. Finally, include a wide variety of plants rather than just one or two species to promote biodiversity and maintain a healthy ecosystem. As the photos show, it's very possible to design a landscape that's lush, beautiful and water-wise.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Cathy Baskin
Resources:
Healthy Garden Tips
Choosing the Right Plant, Right Place https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/153367.pdf
Drought Strategies for Home Landscapes https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/354845.pdf
Step-by-Step Garden Design https://napamg.ucanr.edu/GardenDesign/
City of Napa
Water-Wise Gardening in the Napa Valley https://napa.watersavingplants.com/