by Cynthia Kerson

Being a UC Master Gardener of Napa County has many joys in volunteering to educate home gardeners. In between volunteering, our members decided to tour each others gardens during spring and summer months. Besides being fun and sharing camaraderie, we learn new things to pass along to others. Let's take a look at the last two gardens we visited this season.

The last tours were both in the city of Napa, a family vineyard and an urban garden. The gardens at the vineyard are beautifully arranged around gathering areas for friends and family between a barn and the home, including a traditional lawn, bocce court (to the left of the roses), and bean bag toss, just outside of the photo. The linden trees they planted that line the home are spectacular.

The family vineyard is 1½ acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and was planted 3-4 years ago. Each row is lined with roses, which look lovely. We are unsure why the tradition started of planting roses at the foot of each vineyard row. Throughout the property, there are fruit trees, including  Blackjack figs, stone fruits, citrus, quince, pomegranate, and olive. Also present is an abundant summer garden with all the usual suspects. Things grow beautifully on the valley floor! 

Now off to our final property, an urban oasis. The property contains a few Redwoods that have personalities all their own. The family utilizes every inch of available sun for their vegetables and other sun-loving plants, outside the umbrella of these beautiful Sequoia sempervirens. There is a Meyer lemon that is pruned in the vase pattern with lots of fruit, so it must be precisely arranged. The property owner cleverly and beautifully shades her vegetables with repurposed lace. Throughout the garden are thoughtful objects, found treasures, and sculptures that add to the artistic, eclectic nature of the space.

Our garden tours were a lovely biweekly social get-together from which we all took little gardening pearls of wisdom home. Watch for next year's tours.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Cindy Kerson

 

 

Informational references: Linden Tree http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/linden.html 

Roses http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/rose.html 

Fruit trees, nuts, berries and grapevines http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/fruit.html 

Growing grapes in your backyard https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Growing_Grapes_in_the_California_Garden/ 

Coast Redwood 

https://ucanr.edu/sites/forestry/California_forests/http___ucanrorg_sites_forestry_California_forests_Tree_Identification_/Coast_Redwood_Sequoia_sempervirens_198/#:~:text=The%20coast%20redwood%2C%20also%20called,or%20biomass%2C%20in%20the%20world. 

UCMG Sonoma County-Meyer Lemon Tree https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/The_Kitchen_Garden/FRUITS/Meyer_Lemon/

 

By Bob Niklewicz PT 

Last week I introduced you to the Class 1 Lever. It is the primary lever used in pruning and prying up large stones or the toughest of weeds. I presented the key elements to successfully overcome stubborn weeds or thick branches. Those elements are: Applied Force, the Fulcrum and Resistance. Force is what the gardener generates physically when they use pruners/scissors or a pry bar.

Leverage can also help you protect your back and legs when the amount of resistance becomes even greater or the quantity of materials is larger than can be safely handled.

Image 1

For instance, how do you safely carry or move a heavy load like a sack of potatoes or gardening material such as rocks, branches or soil as seen in Figure 1?

In those cases a “Class 2” Lever is what you need. A “Class 2” used in the garden is most commonly found in a wheelbarrow. Image 2. You could carry the weight the old fashion way like the men grunting in Image 1. Or save your back, legs and several trips by using a Wheelbarrow Image 2. A wheelbarrow is a Class 2 lever set up. The weight is placed between you and the Fulcrum.

Image 4

The Long handles move the load safely towards onto the wheel that is the Fulcrum as shown in Image 3. However, the mechanical advantage is negated by a poor lifting posture as seen in Image 3. There he is bent forwards, knees are straight and the strain of lifting will be placed at the discs and muscles of the low back. In Image 4  the model has perfect lifting posture by keeping his back straight, and his head up. He can lift the load safer by using his leg muscles as the weight is transferred to the wheel. A balanced, stable posture makes the load safer to lift and move.

Diagram 5

Then there is also the “Class 3” Lever. The Class 3 is the most common lever in the body.  It is designed for speed as the Force is generated close to the Fulcrum. Diagram 5 “F”. The Class 3 takes less motion at the Fulcrum to generate a larger and faster arc of motion. This set up allows us to shovel, climb or throw rocks with more velocity. Images 6 & 7 show examples of the Class 3 as used during shoveling.             

In Image 6  the load (resistance) is at the end of the lever (wrist, holding shovel) and the effort (your lower hand) and the fulcrum at the top hand. When the effort (your lower hand) is further up from the shovel blade, you will stand straighter but will have less power to lift. In Image 7 the hand is even closer to the blade. You will have more control and power, but you take the chance to strain your low back. In Image 8 The person can stand much straighter, move faster but has less power. A trade off to protect your back.

Image 8

Using tools that take advantage of leverage will reduce your chance for injury. If you rotate tasks or change hands/sides when using tools while gardening, it will make the job easier and safer to do. It does take a little awareness and practice to frequently change sides or postures but you will be safer at the end of the day.

Bottomline: Use tools that allow you to “leverage” a task without hurting your body. 

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits:

Image 1, ABC News; Image 2, Dreamstime; Wheelbarrow and shovel photos by Olga Morham; Diagram 5, (elbow joint), CC-BY-SA; Image 8, Dreamstime

Information links:

UHSBerkeley.edu-ergonomics tips for gardening at home

https://uhs.berkeley.edu/sites/default/files/ergonomics_tips_for_gardening_at_home.pdf

 

By Bob Niklewicz PT MG  

Archimedes once said, “Give me a place to stand, and a lever long enough, and I will move the world.”

In Mechanical Engineering terms Archimedes would be the force, the long stick would be the lever, the rock would be fulcrum or axis and the world would be the resistance or load. The longer the lever, the greater the mechanical force is multiplied and the easier it would be to move the resistance. Granted, it would have to be an incredibly long lever, but theoretically it could be done. (Figure 1) This set-up would be called a class 1 lever. We don't intend to move the world, so how does this apply to a gardener?

Mechanically, there are three classes of levers. Archimedes was using a class 1 lever. It is the same principle you use when you are on a seesaw with a child. The trick is where do you place the fulcrum. The closer the fulcrum is to the resistance (weight) and with a longer Lever, the more you can move. So a little person can lift a bigger person if the Fulcrum is closer to the big one. (Figure 2) In a smaller tool such as a pair of scissors or pruners, the screw or pin in the scissors or pruners, is the fulcrum. (Figure 3)

Have you noticed that when you try to use the tip of a long pair of scissors to cut something, it is harder to cut than if the cut is made closer to the screw? That is because leverage works both ways. The resistance at the tip can increase your effort to close the scissors. If the child on the left side in figure 2 was considered to be at the tip of a pair of scissors, the person on the right side would be considered the effort to move the child on the left. More effort (weight) is needed on the right to close the scissors. So when cutting an item, branch, stem, cord etc, try to get the item as close as possible to the fulcrum. That will take less force from your hand and less strain to your muscles.

How about if you are digging up rocks or weeds? Lengthening the lever or moving the fulcrum closer to the object to be moved will make the job easier.  In figure 4 there are two weeders. The one on the top has a greater curve, (think bigger fulcrum) that will make it a little easier to get results for digging smaller weeds.  In figure 5 there is a longer handle and it is using a piece of wood as a Fulcrum close to the weed to pop the weed up. In figure 6 you simply push down from higher up on the handle (longer lever) and up the weed comes.

For the bigger pruning jobs, what else could you use? How about some long handled loppers, figure 7.  They work well on the bigger branches having longer handles that gives you more leverage. Also note the size of the jaws in figure 8. They are short so you have to use them close to the fulcrum, but very wide to tolerate the force the long handles generate.

Use tools that allow you to “leverage” a task without hurting your body. Be an Archimedes, not a patient. Watch for part 2 on gardening using leverage in the next post of Spill the Beans.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits:

Information links:

UHSBerkeley.edu-ergonomics tips for gardening at home

https://uhs.berkeley.edu/sites/default/files/ergonomics_tips_for_gardening_at_home.pdf

 

 Margaret Legg

As we all know rainfall this year has been extremely low.  According to UCCE the rainfall total for this calendar year in the Carneros and Oakville region is recorded as 4.51 inches. If one considers the “rainy” season from October 2021 to the present the total would be 20.86 inches, it's still quite below our average annual rainfall of 26-28 inches as referenced by City of Napa Utilities/Water Division. We all have a responsibility to do what we can to conserve this precious commodity and analyze our usage.  Give cold tap water that would otherwise go down the drain a second chance and water something outside. Every drop counts.

Compost & Mulch…the secret sauce to reducing your water usage in your garden.

Mulch	Mulch	Mulch	Mulch	No Mulch	No Mulch
As organic mulch breaks down, nutrients are released into the soil.	Mulch keeps sunlight out, minimizing evaporation.  This helps retain water and keep moisture at the roots.	Without sun weed seeds are suppressed	Mulch insulates plant roots, protecting them from temperature fluctuations.	Without mulch heat builds up in the soil and moisture is lost to evaporation.	Without mulch, rain, and wind cause soil to erode.

The benefits of compost and mulching: 

• Insulates the soil
• Reduces weed seed germination
• Can save 20-30 gallons of water/1000 sq ft each time you water.
• Reduces waste that ends up in landfill
• Amends and improves soil health
• So many more benefits…win-win!

There are multiple options when it comes to compost methods and mulch choices. See references below regarding composting methods including vermicomposting (worm castings). One of the best options for compost to purchase is our own state of the art Napa Recycling Facility.

Watering

Shrink the lawn

• Lawns offer the greatest potential for water conservation.  Consider lawn alternatives; reduce your water schedule; water between 3am-8am; explore water reducing sprinkler heads
• Explore the City of Napa's Cash for Grass program (see reference)
• Control weeds. Weeds complete with desired plants for water and nutrients
• Group plants with similar exposure and water needs. Look for native or drought tolerant plants.
• Water deeply, infrequently, efficiently, and always use a timing device.

Watering systems/application options

• Hose and sprinkler: typical garden hose uses 9-17/gal/min. depending on water pressure.  I filled a 5 gal. bucket in 25 seconds at 80 psi.  A water saving hose nozzle can reduce that usage to 2.5/gal/min.
• Pop-up sprinklers: average use is 4/gal/min/sprinkler.  There are dozens of different types using varying amounts of water, and some frequently have overspray and run-off.
• Soaker hose: uses 1/gal/ft/hr.

 Drip irrigation Tubing:

• Some common size tubing options are:  1/4”, 1/2”, 5/8” plain tubing
• Pressure compensating emitter tubing: 1/2” with emitters every 12” or 18” uses 0.8-1.0 gph/emitter (depends on the brand)
• Pressure compensating emitter tubing: 1/4” with emitters every 6” or 12” uses 0.5 gph/ft

Emitters:

• Applies water directly where it is placed; eliminates overspray and runs off.
• Drip emitters allow water to drip or seep into the root zone; micro sprayers direct water into the air like a miniature sprinkler head.  Both have barbed ends that push into tubing or in the ends of micro tubing. Inline emitters fit between lengths of micro tubing and create custom systems.
• Output rates for emitters range from 1/2-2 gal/hr. and can compensate for plants with diverse watering needs that are run on the same tubing line. 

With this unprecedented time of extreme heat and limited amount of water it seems clear that composting and mulching your garden, along with drip irrigation are clear winners for keeping our gardens alive and the soil healthy.

On a final note, during the rainy season (fingers crossed) there are multiple options to save some of that precious liquid.  Roof runoff offers tremendous amounts of water that can be put to better use than rushing down the street to be deposited in the storm drain, only to end up in our streams and eventually the ocean, carrying with it pollutants from cars, pesticides, garbage, construction refuge, cigarette butts, and the list goes on. 

There are many water saving measures that can be created from simple to complicated:

• Rain barrels/tanks/cisterns
• Graywater catchment
• Underground reservoirs
• Rain Gardens

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Wild Valley Farms with permission

Information Links:

City of Napa-Cash for Grass info https://www.cityofnapa.org/585/Cash-For-Grass

Napa County Rainwater harvesting https://www.napawatersheds.org/managed_files/Document/5748/rain%20harv_updated_2013.pdf

Recycling center https://naparecycling.com/residents/napa-recycling-facility/

Carneros rainwater measurement station https://cenapa.ucanr.edu/about/weather/?weather=station&station=109

UCMG Napa County-Composting information https://napamg.ucanr.edu/Master_Gardener_Programs/Composting/