Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Subject: Best Tree for Fast Shade
Client's Request: I live in mid-County and am going to remove 9 dying Birch Trees due to beetles this fall. I need to plant a tree for shade in the afternoon and evening. I am debating between the Chinese Elm and the Raywood Ash. I am looking for a fast-growing shade tree so I would like a tree to be tall and have a large canopy. If you need to see a picture of my back yard please check Google Earth. Perhaps you have a better tree to suggest. I really do not want a very messy tree, if possible. Thank You,
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk concerning the replacement of your birch trees. You asked about Chinese Elm or Raywood Ash - both of these could likely fit your requirements for growth rate and shade, but they also have some considerations to consider as well.
The Raywood ash is a very attractive tree and sometimes does very well in our area, but in recent years many trees have been affected by dieback of branches. This is caused by a fungus which does not seem to kill the tree but can make it look quite unattractive.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/ashdieback.html
The Chinese elm could also fit the bill, but can be somewhat messy from dry fruit litter.
https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/ulmus-parvifolia
A few other suggestions you might consider, all of which have a reasonable growth rate include:
Common Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)
https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/celtis-occidentalis
One issue with this tree is that it is often attacked by an aphid which can cause messy drips from honeydew.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74111.html
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Chinese_Pistache/
Fruitless Mulberry (Morus alba)
https://ucanr.edu/sites/urbanhort/files/80182.pdf
This is the tree that is often pruned back to pollarded stubs that can look quite ugly to some in the winter. This is done to keep the tree small, but mulberries can also be pruned to retain good structure through normal growth.
I hope this helps in selecting your tree. For the long-term health of your new tree, it will be very important to select a good tree in the nursery, plant it properly and begin training the young tree for good structure. We do have some good information on these topics, so if you are interested please get back to us. You can also find this information on our UC website, http://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Landscape_Trees/
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Note: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Advice for Home Gardeners from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: We live in the south County currently and are moving 10 miles north into the center of the County in April 2020. We currently have tree roses that we planted 4years back and lots of fruits trees that we planted 10 years back. How can we move roses and fruit trees to our new home. Fruit trees that we are mainly looking to move are pluots, plums, pears, grapes, persimmon, pomegranates, apple and a few citrus plants. Would appreciate all your information on if and how to make the move for my favorite plants without giving them a shock.
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk for information about moving several trees to your new home. Unfortunately, you can't move trees without causing them stress and while it is possible to successfully move a plant from one location to another, moving established fruit trees like yours, is very difficult and usually not advised. Unless the tree is uniquely special, buying new trees for the new location makes a lot more sense.
Here's a link to an article by Clemson University Cooperative Extension giving detailed instructions about moving established trees. I think you will find it helpful if you decide to try to move your trees despite the difficulty. They recommend pruning the tree roots in the fall and then moving the tree before bud break next year. The most important thing is to get as much of the root ball as possible and go at least a foot deep. The new hole should be 50 percent wider than the root ball and about the same depth. You do not need to amend the soil.
Moving the rose trees will probably be much easier as they are quite resilient and it may be possible to move them at any time if done correctly. Here's another link to an article called "Myths About Transplanting Roses" which won an award from the Northern California, Nevada and Hawaii Rose Society. You may find this helpful since it gives good instructions on how to transplant a rose during the growing season. In short, they advise to give the rose as much water as possible the day before transplanting, get as much of the root ball as possible and minimize the time out of the ground.
Good luck and please let us know if we can be of further assistance.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (TDT)
Note: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
And can you please identify the green plant for me and what I should do with it? The ones I see in our neighborhood look more like a low ground covering but ours has a large trunk and is very woody and unattractive. I am open to pulling it out if it can't be pruned attractively.
Fuchsia: I suggest that you hold off pruning the fuchsia until next spring. Your fuchsia looks like it is struggling as it only has sparse stems, leaves and flowers and the leaves look rather pale. If you were to prune it most likely you would be removing many of the leaves and without those it would not be able to produce its food. Flowers appear on new wood so do any pruning before spring growth begin but after the last frost. During this part of the season focus on providing good cultural care.
Fuchsias like to be watered regularly; you want to maintain a moist but not waterlogged condition.
Fuchsias are heavy feeders so while blooming provide a monthly application of a balanced liquid fertilizer. A balanced fertilizer is one with 3 numbers about the same. You may see 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. The numbers represent the percentage of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus respectively in the product.
Unknown plant: Your unknown plant is a ceanothus. There many varieties of ceanothus both upright shrubs and ground covers as you see in your neighbor's yards. Regardless of the type you have, I can provide you with general information on pruning and care.
The part of the plant you are showing in the picture has nice green growth. Since I cannot see the whole plant I am unable to tell you if you will be able to make it more attractive. For pruning, wait until the blooms have faded and avoid cutting off any branches more than an inch in diameter. While most Ceanothus can be shaped by tip pruning and cleaning out interior or low dead growth, it resents serious hacking. Ceanothus will not produce shoots from old wood, so never prune back severely to old wood. Prune from the inside, lightly thinning and removing a few lower limbs.
Ceanothus typically requires little if any water during the summer months so caution here because your fuchsia that lives right next to it requires regular water.
Following is a link to a UC website that will provide more information on the history, pruning, and care of ceanothus: http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Ceanothus_796/
Help Desk of UC the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (EDC)
Note: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Gardener's Request: Can I plant mint and thyme together? Thank you for your response.
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk.
Mint and thyme are wonderful herbs to have in the garden; both herbs have a lovely scent and their flowers are attractive to many beneficial insects.
Mint is considered a rather aggressive herb; therefore, it is best to plant mint by itself in a pot, not in the ground. You can try to plant both mint and thyme together in a pot; however, please realize over time the mint will probably take over the thyme. Mint and thyme also have different water requirements, thyme requires less water than mint.
Hope the above addresses your question. You can find further information regarding mint and thyme in the links below. Both links reference Sonoma County but the information should apply to Contra Costa County as well (we assumed you live in Contra Costa County).
Mint: http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/The_Kitchen_Garden/Feature_Vegetables/Mint/
Thyme: http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/Feature_Vegetables/Thyme/
Please let us know if you need further assistance with this or other herb gardening.
Happy Gardening!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (mlk)
Note: Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about your oak tree. First off, let me say that I am sorry about your oak tree. It does not look very healthy in the picture you provided. While it is common for live oaks to shed significant leaves in the spring, it sounds like you are seeing a more general decline over years which is likely due to other causes. I also should note that our advice is based solely on the picture, as opposed to the arborist who come to your house and personally reviewed the tree on-site. Their advice is likely to be more accurate. You mentioned that they want to treat the tree yearly with a fungicide. Did they actually diagnose a fungal disease?
These would be my concerns for your oak based on the information you provided:
You mention that your neighbor's driveway was put in a few years ago. I presume that is the driveway either in front or behind the tree in the pictures. Regardless, both driveways appear to be under the drip line of the tree. The drip line of a tree is the outermost circumference of the leaf canopy. This is where, in rain, water will drip from the leaves of the tree onto the ground. Oak trees are very susceptible to damage from root compaction and grading. Any construction that has occurred under the tree could result in the death of important roots and the subsequent impending death of the tree. The death of the tree under these circumstances may not be fast, it might take years. Below is a link to a graph with an algorithm to determine if your oak tree may have Sudden Oak Death. Notably, it mentions that you need to consider physical damage first. Depending on when this driveway was installed, this may be the most likely cause of the trees decline. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pni7498-1c.html
- It is impossible to tell what kinds of plants were placed under the oak tree. The general rule for planting under oak trees is that plants should be quite a few feet from the trunk and that the understudy plants cannot require summer water. If these plants under the oak tree are being watered regularly, that can make the oak tree more susceptible to fungal diseases from the soil. Mature oak trees should not be watered during the summer at all. You should only water during the winter if there is insufficient rain (less than 20 inches/season).
- Lastly a fungal disease would be a possible cause for this kind of decline. There are a variety of fungal diseases that can affect oak trees, however, one of the most concerning is a fungal disease called Phytophthora ramorum. The common name for the disease it causes is Sudden Oak Death. This disease is typically spread from nearby infected California bay laurel trees, rhododendrons or camellias. The pathogen survives on the leaves of the bay laurel and is transmitted to nearby oaks by rain or wind. Once on the oak it infects the trunk and the tree can develop a canker where it bleeds a thick, sticky sap. There is a rapid browning (over 2-4 weeks) of the leaves, however, the tree has usually been infected for two years at that point. This disease is diagnosed by sampling the leaves of nearby host plants (usually a nearby bay laurel) or the bark. Bark sampling should be done by an expert. This disease does not have any cure. There is a fungicide (phosphonate, Agri-Fos) which is approved as a preventative treatment. This will not cure affected trees but will suppress disease progression in early cases. It is injected into the tree or sprayed on the trunk. While it appears you can purchase this product and apply it yourself, it requires special equipment to give the tree injections. You could spray the tree but would likely need special equipment to spray a tree of this size. Given those considerations, treatment is likely a job best left to the arborists. If you treat for fungal disease, and it is not a fungal disease, you may adversely affect the health of the soil under the tree. Fungicides are non-specific and using one may kill non-disease causing fungi that are normal components of soil. For this reason, it is best to get a diagnosis of this disease before starting expensive treatments. There is more information about this disease at the following link: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74151.html
I hope this information proves helpful to you as you make decisions about this tree. Below is a link to a very extensive guide to diseases of oak trees which you may want to look through. http://www.suddenoakdeath.org/pdf/psw_gtr197.pdf
Best of luck with your oak tree. Please contact the Help Desk again if you have more questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SES)
Note: Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.