With spring quickly approaching, many gardeners are dreaming of their garden preparations:  ordering seeds, prepping the soil, cleaning up from last year.  With all these things in mind, have you ever thought about saving the seeds from the crops you grow? There are many benefits in considering this.

• Seeds and plants saved become acclimated to our environment, climate
• There is a greater variety of vegetables to grow
• There may be more genetic diversity when growing old-time veggies
• It is can be cost effective due to higher seed prices

Hybrids vs. Heirlooms

With this in mind, there are some important things to know about what veggies to grow in order to save the seeds. 

There are two major types of seeds:   Hybrid and Heirloom seeds

• Hybrid seeds have been cross pollinated from two different varieties in the same plant species. They are crossed to produce seeds that carry desired characteristics or appearances.
  • Seeds saved from hybrid plants will revert back to their parent plants.
• Heirloom Seeds are non-Hybrid, and open pollinated.
  • Heirloom Seeds are usually more than fifty years old and have been passed down from generation to generation
  • If you plant an Heirloom seed that you have saved from an Heirloom plant, it will grow true to the parent plant.

Spacing plants to prevent cross-pollination

For the seed saving beginner, here is a list of seeds that are easy to save because they are self-pollinating.  However, despite being self-pollinating, it may still be important to space crops for guaranteed purity.  Pollinators can be attracted to the flowers and help with pollination, thus producing offspring with new characteristics. To keep seed varieties ‘pure', using ‘isolation' –planting related varieties at appropriate distance to minimize the chance of crossing.  

How long do seeds last?

This is dependent on the type of seed, but also on how they are taken care of after you save them. To ensure saved seeds will sprout in the future, store them in a cool, dry place away from moisture, heat, and light. 

Common Beans

The seed is the mature bean.  Allow the bean pod to dry on the vine. If growing more than one variety, isolate by at least 20 feet.

• Harvest the dried bean pods and place in a paper bag.
• Dry for a week or more before separating the bean from its pod.
• Grow and harvest from at least 10 plants of the same variety for diversity.  
• Seeds can last up to 4 years.

Eggplant

Allow several fruits from at least 10 plants to ripen far past the edible stage. The skin will become a dark yellow or yellowish-brown color. If growing more than one variety, isolate by at least by 50 feet.

• Mash the pulp by hand as best as you can. The seeds are hard, smooth and plump and won't damage easily.
• Toss seeds and pulp into a bucket of water and stir until pulp separates from the seeds. Seeds will sink.
• Rinse until the water comes out clear. Pour seeds through a screen, spread them in a thin layer and dry for about 3 weeks.
• Seeds can last 3-6 years

Garlic

The clove is the ‘seed', so propagation is achieved by replanting cloves. It is generally agreed that planting the largest cloves will produce the largest bulbs next year. Isolation is not necessary even if growing several varieties.

• After harvest, store garlic at room temperature to prevent premature sprouting.
• Plant from your crop every year.

Lettuce

Seeds are very easy to save.  Allow a dozen plants to grow, unharvested, through the spring and summer.  They will “bolt” (send up seed heads). Isolate by 20 feet if growing more than one variety. Once the seed heads are a yellowing-tan color and very dry, they are ready to save.

• Cut at the stem and place in a paper bag. Once dry, crush the heads and sift to separate the seeds from the chaff.
• Harvest from at least 10 plants of the same variety.
• Seeds can last 2-4 years.

Okra

Pods should be left on the plants until fully mature. Okra is self-pollinating but will cross via bees if two varieties are planted near each other. Plant one variety to ensure purity.

• Pick just as the seeds begin to split.
• Clip and store in paper bag for a few weeks.
• Seeds can last up to 3 years.

Peas

Peas are self-pollinating, however, keep favored plant 20 feet away if growing more than one variety.

• Allow pods to slightly dry on the vine before harvesting.
• When picked, place in a paper bag and allow to dry further for a week or two.
• Thresh them from the pod, and store in a jar or envelope.
• Seeds can last up to 5 years

Peppers

Peppers are very easy to save. Once ripe, it's time to harvest the seeds. Peppers are self-pollinating but will occasionally cross via bees if two varieties are planted near each other. Plant varieties 100 feet away.

• Cut open the ripe fruit, scrape out the seeds and let dry on a paper plate for a week before storing in a jar. 
• Seeds can last up to 2 years.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are mostly self-pollinating, but to ensure purity, separate the favored plant by 10 feet. Allow the fruit to fully ripen on the stem before harvesting. 

• Cut the tomato open and scoop out the seeds.
• Place the seeds in a jar of water and allow to ferment until a white mold forms on top of the water.
• During this process, cover the top of the jar with paper towel to keep flies out.
• Rinse the contents of the jar with water until it comes out clear.
• Allow seeds to settle between rinses. Good seeds will sink to the bottom each time.
• Spread seeds out on a paper plate and allow to dry for 3-4 days before storing in a paper envelope.
• Seeds can last up to 5 years.
• Watch our Tomato Seed Saving Video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FvTCfcpLQgw&t=1s

Hopefully, these suggestions will inspire you to begin the exciting adventure of saving your own seeds from the crops you grow.  Happy Gardening!!!

Heidi Aufdermaur has been a UCCE Stanislaus County Master Gardener since 2019; Heidi took all photos used in this article.

Resources

California Master Gardener Handbook.

Seeds Matter. www.seedmatters.org

The Heirloom Life Gardener.  Bake Creek Heirloom Seed Company.  Jere and Emilee Gettle.

 

While out harvesting your tomatoes this season, did you notice any fruits that had round, sunken, water-soaked spots on the bottom?  This is a common disorder called blossom-end rot.  As the name implies, it always occurs on the blossom end of the tomato, opposite the stem end.  You'll often notice it after a few very hot days

Symptoms of Blossom-End Rot

The first symptom is usually the appearance of a small spot at or near the blossom scar of green fruits.  As the spot enlarges, the affected tissues dry out and become light brown to dark brown.  The area then develops into a well defined sunken spot, with the tissues collapsed and leathery.  The spot can grow large enough to cover the entire bottom half of the fruit.  The skin remains unbroken because it is the tissues beneath that have dried out and collapsed.  The disorder not only affects tomatoes, but can also occur on peppers and squash. While the fruit looks unappetizing, you can still eat it - just cut out the affected part. 

Causes of Blossom-End Rot

Blossom-end rot is not caused by an insect or disease organism, so fungicides and insecticides will not work to control the problem.  Instead, blossom end rot is caused by a number of environmental conditions, especially those that affect the supply of water and calcium in the developing fruits.  When rapidly growing plants are suddenly exposed to hot, dry conditions, insufficient water is absorbed by the plant's roots and water and calcium are not transported up to the rapidly developing fruits.  This results in blossom-end rot.  Anything else that reduces the ability of the tomato plant to take up water will also increase injury due to blossom-end rot.  For example root rots, nematodes, lack of aeration due to soil compaction, overwatering, underwatering, overfertilizing, high soil salinity and root damage caused by cultivating too close to the plant may all contribute to the disorder.

Tips for Preventing Blossom-End Rot

There are several things you can do to prevent the calcium deficiency, and blossom end rot.  First, water deeply, and on a regular schedule, especially during hot weather.  Use a soil-covering mulch around your plants to conserve moisture, especially if your soil is sandy.  If you are growing tomatoes in containers filled with a porous potting soil, you may need to water the plants every day during hot periods.  When cultivation is necessary, it should not be too near

the plants nor too deep, so that valuable water absorbing roots remain uninjured and viable.  The best way of preventing the disorder is to maintain adequate and uniform soil moisture in the root zone throughout the growing season.

More Questions about Vegetables?

Stay tuned for an announcement about an upcoming in person class in August! In the meantime, fill out our Ask a Master Gardener survey http://ucanr.edu/ask/ucmgstanislaus and attach any applicable photos.

References

UC IPM http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/ENVIRON/blossomendrot.html 

Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.