- Author: Ben Faber
So after five years of drought a grower told me he finally gets it. Farming avocados in Goleta with limited well water and poor quality and expensive, rationed delivery, he has finally cut out trees that were not performing well. These were wind sept trees, areas with root and crown rot. Tree were either stumped or removed altogether. The idea is to focus on those trees that are productive, and are they ever. They are getting the water they need and their schedule has been changed. Previously irrigation had been on a fixed schedule of 2 weeks and got 24 hours per set. The schedule was dictated by the time it took to get around to all 300 acres. Now trees are irrigated one to two times per week with shorter sets, from 5-8 hours depending on the time it takes to get 18 inches of penetration in sandy ground. Yields per acre have significantly increased, largely because non-productive areas have been eliminated and the remaining trees are getting what they need.
He is also anticipating irrigation needs – projecting a schedule.
The driving forces for water loss in avocados in decreasing effect are sunlight (day length, cloud cover), wind, humidity, and temperature. More light, more transpiration. More wind, more water loss, lower humidity, more water loss. And least of all if temperature which is what we normally respond to, but which the tree responds the least. Usually, though the most desiccating conditions occur during periods of high, dry winds that blow out of the Great Basin – the dread Santa Anas or in the case of Santa Barbara the Sundowners. When they start blowing, it's hard to play catchup. It takes a while for water to infiltrate and for the roots to start taking it up and filling all the drained leaves and stems. Now the grower more carefully watches the forecasts and makes sure to get water on before the high demand conditions arrive. With multiple blocks he wants to get all of them wetted to a normal irrigation depth and then it's time to start the cycle over again. He keep an eye on the nearest CIMIS station to see how much the water demand is increasing and adjusts the irrigation frequency. Importantly, h keep your eye on how fast the soil in the root zone is drying out and then makes even smaller and more frequent applications.
When it comes to making the water meet the needs of the trees, he is really customizing each irrigation.
- Author: Cheryl Wilen - Area Wide IPM Advisor
There has been more than the usual number of questions about what I am calling "bio-based" herbicides recently. Arguably, this is coming from news that some school districts and cities specifically calling out the use of glyphosate on the properties they manage. Landscaping departments want to know which of the products available work the best.
To start, please be aware that all of these products are contact herbicides that will not move through the plant. Therefore, they will not be effective if you are trying to get to any underground organ such as the roots, rhizomes, tubers, etc. of any perennial plant. Do not try to make a head to head comparison to glyphosate - glyphosate will win every time. These act more like diquat (Reward) so if you are using Reward, some of these could be a good replacement, if needed.
Here's what I have in:
Suppress* |
CAPRIC ACID + CAPRYLIC ACID |
Finale |
GLUFOSINATE-AMMONIUM |
WeedPharm* |
ACETIC ACID |
AvengerAG* |
LIMONENE |
AXXE*,** |
AMMONIUM NONANOATE |
WeedZap* |
CLOVE OIL + CINNAMON OIL |
Burnout* |
LIMONENE |
Scythe |
NONANOIC ACID |
Fiesta** |
Fe HEDTA |
Roundup Pro |
GLYPHOSATE |
*listed as “organic” but not necessarily OMRI certified
**listed as a biopesticide
I also tried A.D.I.O.S. (active ingredient: sodium chloride + other ingredients: potassium chloride, sodium bicarbonate) in a preliminary experiment and found that it was a waste of my time.
The rates for most of these can be quite high. For example, WeedPharm is applied with no dilution even though it carries a “Danger” signal word on the label. Other are applied at 3-25% rates by volume.
- Author: Ben Faber
Because of potential contamination of mulches from pesticides, mulch use is being called into question and testing may be required for mulches applied to organic orchards. This is a recent ruling. As always, anything applied to a certified organic operation should be cleared with the certifier first.
http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/beyond-pesticides-federal-court-finds-usda-process-for-allowing-pesticide-contaminated-compost-improper-and-stops-use-300288112.html
- Author: Ben Faber
Here is a system of avocado pruning that seems to be working for the grower. He has been keeping his 12 year old ‘Hass' planted on 16 x 16 to 8 feet high by pruning out center limbs each year. He leaves some to flower and fruit the next year, then removes those with the fruit once they pass maturity in January. The cost of the pruning and chipping is about the value of the fruit that is harvested off those limbs. On older trees that were planted in the 1970's are treated in a similar manner. The trees were scaffolded to 5 feet and once tamed, have been allowed to grow in a similar fashion as the 12 year old trees. Both tree ages are productive throughout the canopy. In the spring, the trees are size picked from the ground with picking poles and as necessary with short ladders. In the summer they are stripped. The key is yearly pruning. I have been somewhat disenchanted with this style in the past because the centers would fill up so fast. In this case, the trees are kept short to keep light throughout the tree and the yearly pruning keeps opening it up.
Photos:
12 year old center pruned trees
Center prune
Fruit hanging in the interior
40 year old, scaffolded then center pruned trees
- Author: Ben Faber
Get ready for more rotting avocado fruit if you have leaf blight showing up in your tree canopy. The fungal spores (one of the Botryosphaerias we once lumped as Dothiorella) that create the infection spread in an irregular pattern over the leaf and down the stem (then called “stem blight”). This is often confused with salt or tip burn. The two conditions are caused by the same problem, water and or salt stress. However, in the case of leaf blight, this is a pathogen that can pass to neighboring fruit and begin the process of rot. This starts happening when the fruit starts ripening and softening, so it's often not seen in the orchard, but the packhouse or in the market.
Control is basically gaining control over the soil moisture and salinity in the root zone and when the leaf blight starts showing up in the canopy, cutting as much out back to green tissue as is economically possible.
Leaf blights from this group of fungi have also been reported as infecting other fruits, such as citrus, apple, peach and grape among others. The solution is the same - water right and cut the stuff out when and if it shows up.
Photos:
Body rots
Rot spreading to flesh
Leaf Blight