- Author: Ben Faber
Oh, oh is there going to be a wet fall and winter? If it comes and washes the accumulated salts of the last four years out of the root zones of citrus and avocado, that's a good thing. But what happens if there is a little too much of the good stuff? In the winter of 2005, Venture got over 40” of rain, which is 200% of what is normal. The last time big rains occurred prior to that was in the winter of 1997-98. That year the rains were evenly spaced on almost a weekly basis through the winter and into the late spring and over 50" fell. That year we had major problems with both citrus and avocados collapsing from asphyxiation. The same occurred in 2005, but not so pronounced. This winter could also see some collapse.
Asphyxiation is a physiological problem that may affect certain branches, whole limbs or the entire tree. Leaves wilt and may fall, the fruit withers and drops and the branches die back to a greater or lesser extent. The condition develops so rapidly that it may be regarded as a form of collapse. Usually, the larger stems and branches remain alive, and after a time, vigorous new growth is put out so that the tree tends to recover.
Asphyxiation is related to the air and water conditions of the soil. The trouble appears mainly in fine-textured or shallow soils with impervious sub-soils. In 1997-98, this even occurred on slopes with normally good drainage because the rains were so frequent. When such soils are over-irrigated or wetted by rains, the water displaces the soil oxygen. The smaller roots die when deprived of oxygen. When the stress of water shortage develops, the impaired roots are unable to supply water to the leaves rapidly enough and the tree collapses. The condition is accentuated when rainy weather is followed by winds or warm conditions.
Canopy treatment in less severe instances consists of cutting back the dead branches to live wood. If leaf drop has been excessive, the tree should be whitewashed to prevent sunburn. Fruit, if mature should be harvested as soon as possible to prevent loss. In the case of young trees, less than two years of age, recovery sometimes does not occur, and replanting should be considered if vigorous regrowth does not occur by July.
Asphyxiation can be reduced by proper planting and grading. If an impervious layer is identified, it should be ripped prior to planting. The field should be graded so that water has somewhere to run off the field during high rainfall years. Heavier soils might require planting on berms or mounds so that the crown roots have a better chance of being aerated.
Post-plant, if an impervious layer can be identified and is shallow enough to break through, ripping alongside the tree or drilling 4-6 inch post holes at the corners of the tree can improve drainage. It is important that the ripper blade or auger gets below the impervious layer for this technique to be effective.
We don't know what the future holds. Hopefully rain that does some good without too much harm.
Avocado asphyxiation 2005
- Author: Ben Faber
California is suffering historic drought conditions. The information on this webpage offers farmers and ranchers links to valuable resources, carried out by researchers and specialists, on a vast array of issues they are facing during this extremely dry and difficult year. For general drought information please click on the links below.
For drought issues with a particular crop, please see the left navigation buttons where you will find resources for your specific agricultural needs.
UC ANR California Institute for Water Resources Drought Information
http://ciwr.ucanr.edu/California_Drought_Expertise/
UC Davis Rangeland Watershed Laboratory Managing Drought http://rangelandwatersheds.ucdavis.edu/main/drought.html#RancherPerspectives
Coping with Declining Groundwater Levels
CIMIS Drought Tips
View film excerpts from University of California Researchers and Academics on a large variety of expert water and drought topics
Insights: Water and Drought Online Seminar Series
Irrigation Scheduling Tools
UC Drought Management-Evapotranspiration Scheduling
Soil Moisture Monitoring
UC Drought Management-Soil Moisture Monitoring
Extension- Soil Moisture Sensors
Drought Strategies
Irrigation Scheduling during a Drought
- Author: Ben Faber
How to Manage PestsUC Pest Management Guidelines
I have had a number of requests to identify fruit spotting on lemons. It turns out to be Septoria fungus which can show up on leaves, stems and fruit. The key to this is to make sure there is a fungicide on the tree in the fall before the wet weather kicks in
CitrusSeptoria SpotPathogen: Septoria citri(Reviewed 9/08, updated 9/08) In this Guideline: SymptomsEarly symptoms of Septoria spot appear as small, light tan to reddish brown pits on fruit, 0.04 to 0.08 inch (1 to 2 mm) in diameter, which usually do not extend beyond the oil-bearing tissue. Advanced lesions are blackish, sunken, extend into the albedo (white spongy inner part of rind), and are up to 0.8 to 1.2 inch (20 to 30 mm) in diameter. Dark brown to black fruiting bodies often develop in these lesions, which usually do not extend beyond the oil-bearing tissue. The spots are much more conspicuous after the fruit has changed from green to yellow or orange. Small spots may develop into large, brown blotches during storage or long-distance transportation. Septoria citri may also cause similar spotting on leaves or twigs that are weakened by frost or pests. Comments on the DiseaseThe Septoria fungus causes spotting of Valencia oranges, late-season navel oranges, and occasionally of lemons and grapefruit. It occurs in the San Joaquin Valley and interior districts of southern California during cool, moist weather. Infections begin when Septoria conidia are transported throughout the tree by rainfall. The spores germinate with additional moisture from rain or dews and commonly infect cold-injured fruit tissue and mechanical injuries. The damage to the rind lowers the grade of the fruit and results in culling. Septoria spot may be confused with copper injury and other abiotic and biotic agents. ManagementApply a preventive copper spray in late fall or early winter, just before or after the first rain. In years with heavy rainfall, additional applications may be necessary. For California oranges (Navels and Valencias) shipped to Korea:
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- Author: Ben Faber
By way of the San Francisco Chronicle
Hopes of an almighty El Niño bringing rain to a drought-stricken California - with its fallow fields, depleted streams and parched lawns - were further dashed Thursday. The National Weather Service, in its monthly El Niño report, again downgraded the chances of the influential weather pattern occurring in the fall or winter.
The odds were 80 percent in May, but were placed between 60 and 65 percent this week.
Meanwhile, the agency also announced that the much-needed weather event is likely to be weak instead of moderate in strength - another retreat from the more robust projections made earlier this year that fueled speculation that California's three-year dry spell might be snapped.
- Author: Ben Faber
"We don't need to irrigate, it's winter." This is a commonly held idea, and many years it is true. Adequately timed rains will often meet the needs of avocado trees during the winter period, and in times like last year, even satisfy much of the spring requirement. And the calls are coming in – “What’s wrong with my trees, they have all these brown leaves?”. This from San Diego to San Luis Obispo.
In a low rainfall year, irrigation can be as necessary as at other times of the year. This is because a subtropical evergreen like avocado continues to use water regardless of rainfall patterns. At the time of writing this article in March, we have had a scant 4 inches in Ventura and this is on top of a low rainfall year in 2011-12. Rain is necessary to leach the salts that have accumulated from the last irrigation season.
The driving forces for plant water use are light intensity, wind and relative humidity, as well as temperature. Remember how cold, dry winds can dry your skin or freeze-dry backpack food. Even during the winter, the trees are quite capable of losing large amounts of water with clear skies and cold winds.
Dry Santa Ana conditions are also more common in winter than in the past. This winter, a time of drought, I went out to see an orchard to evaluate it for pruning. On arrival, my first concern was for the water stress in the trees. The grower, however, was unconcerned. The trees had been dutifully irrigated the previous Friday. But over the weekend, a Santa Ana had blown for three days and completely dried the soil in the top 10 inches. Digging around the roots convinced the grower of water stress. Do not take irrigation for granted.
Contributing to the problem is the determination of what amount of rainfall is effective. Effective rainfall is defined as the amount of water that is retained in the root zone after rain. Avocados, especially on shallow soils, do not have much of a root zone. Most soils can be expected to hold about 2 inches of available water in the top 2 feet, less the more sandy, more the more heavy.
If rainfall exceeds the holding capacity within the root zone, it is lost to the plant. Just imagine if all the year's expected rain fell during one storm. It would not be long before irrigation would be required with no more rain coming. The extra water may, however, perform the all-necessary function of leaching accumulated salts from the root zone. When the rain gauge says that 2 inches fell, it is quite possible that all that rain will not be available to the tree. This also goes for the quarter inch storms we get that do not even make it through the leaf litter. It is not effective rainfall, even though it may wash the persea mite off the leaves.
One of the best ways to assess the effectiveness of rainfall within the root zone is with tensiometers. These trusty instruments are most commonly used to schedule irrigations. A good rainfall should return the 8- and 18-inch depth gauges to close to 0 cbars. This will tell you whether the rain thoroughly wetted the root zone. It will not tell you how much may have passed through the root zone, however.
If you are using soil sampling to assess the depth of rain infiltration, simply squeezing a handful of soil can help. Regardless of soil texture, a wetted soil will form a ball or cast when thoroughly wetted. Water moves as a front through the soil. After a rain, take soil samples with depth to find where the potential to form a ball abruptly ends. This will tell you the depth of effective rain.
How well a soil holds together can also be an indication of when to irrigate. Even a sandy loam texture will retain a ball that does not hold together well when there is still adequate moisture for the tree. The possibility of forming a ball decreases with water content. When visible cracking of a soil ball is obvious, it is time to irrigate.
Winter irrigation is something we do not commonly perform, but in low rainfall years it is an activity we need to consider, especially for controlling the salts that accumulate from our previous irrigation season.
Salt damage due to lack of leaching