- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
If Cinderella were a butterfly, she'd probably be a white cabbage butterfly, Pieris rapae.
The butterfly--in its larval stage it's a pest of cucurbits--is stunning as an adult. Just think of a flowing white gown, exquisite pirouettes, and a flutter like no other.
If you've ever tried to photograph a white cabbage butterfly, it's not all that easy. They are fast and fleeting. One minute they're on the lavender and the next minute they're not. One minute they're on the catmint and then...
Where did they go?
With a fast shutter speed, though, you can sometimes catch them in flight.
When Cinderella left the ballroom at the stroke of midnight (she should listened to her Fairy Godmother and kept better track of her time!) her carriage turned back into a pumpkin, the footmen into lizards, the coachman into a rat, and her dress turned back into rags.
Just as her Fairy Godmother warned.
But the finely, timely P. rapae just flutters away--white flowing gown intact...unless snagged by a predator.
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Ever seen the male longhorned bees, Melissodes agilis, zipping around your garden, trying to bump all critters, large and small, off of "their" blossoms? They own them, ya' know.
These male bees are SO territorial. We've seen them target honey bees, bumble bees, carpenter bees, syrphid flies, spiders and praying mantises. And one another. Everything is fair game.
"They're saving the flowers for the females of their species, so they can mate with them," according to the late Robbin Thorp (1933-2019), UC Davis distinguished emeritus professor, Department of Entomology and Nematology.
But as dusk settles, there they are, the boys sleeping together in what Thorp called "The Boys' Night Out." The females return to their nests and the males "snuggle" together on lavender, sunflowers or whatever blossom suits them.
If you try to photograph them during the day when they're being territorial, you'll need to set your shutter speed at around 1/8000 of a second to freeze the action.
But if you try to photograph them at dawn or dusk when they're sleeping, it's so much easier. They begin to stir around dawn, as honey bees and bumble bees buzz by their sleeping quarters.
What's up, sleepy head?
- Author: Melissa G. Womack
A scorching summer heat wave is bringing triple-digit temperatures and excessive heat alerts to much of California. The National Weather Service is predicting temperatures upwards of 105 and 115 degrees for several days in a row. Many home gardeners are wondering how they can help their plants, trees, or shrubs survive the intense summer heat.
“We are getting a lot of questions from around the state from people worried about how the extreme temperatures are going to affect the plants or trees in their yard,” says Missy Gable, director of the UC Master Gardener Program. “With a little extra planning, you can help your garden beat the heat and survive the hot summer weather.”
UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer gardening questions and provide advice. Here are seven quick and easy ways to help make sure your plants and trees survive the hot summer months:
- Take care of yourself first, only garden during the cooler times of the day in the early morning or evening hours. Limit the time spent outdoors during the peak temperatures. Drink plenty of water, wear lightweight loose clothing, a brimmed hat, and work in the shade whenever possible.
- Shade your plants. Use a shade cloth, patio umbrella or other temporary structure to protect sensitive plants from the direct sun. This can reduce the heat stress on plants and prevent scorching of leaves.
- Water in the morning. Watering plants in the early morning helps to minimizes water loss due to evaporation, which is less prevalent during the cooler part of the day. This practice allows your plants to absorb water efficiently and become fully hydrated before the heat intensifies.
- Water trees deeply and less frequently. Water trees deeply and less frequently—yes, that's right, less frequently! The key is to water "deeply." Deep watering, promotes a robust network of deep roots, which helps the tree access water from deeper in the soil and become more drought-tolerant.
- Mulch, mulch, and more mulch. When temperatures get extreme, having a good layer of mulch prevents soil from heating up excessively and loosing water to evaporation. Apply 4-6 inches of a medium shred bark mulch to insulate the soil.
- Group container plants together: Placing container plants close to each other may help create a microclimate that retains moisture and reduces temperature fluctuations. Consider temporarily moving container plants to shadier areas.
- Watch for radiant heat. Pay special attention to plants located near walkways, patios, and other structures that radiate heat. These plants are often the first to show signs of heat stress and may require extra water to cope with the increased temperature.
- Don't fertilize plants or trees during hot summer months. Fertilizers aim to increase the growth of plants and trees. When a fertilizer is applied, especially one that is high in Nitrogen, a plant is triggered to produce more green growth. An increase in growth means an increase in water and nutrient needs. During hot spells, it is especially hard to keep up with plant water and nutrient needs as soils dry out quickly and water may not be readily available.
Thankfully, we're not trying to garden on the surface of the sun. Unfortunately, sometimes it can feel like it. Stay cool, and don't forget to plan for your garden in the fall—it's the perfect excuse to stay inside with the air conditioning and an ice-cold beverage.
Ask your local UC Master Gardener Program
Have a gardening question? UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help. Click here to Find a Program and connect with your local UC Master Gardener Program. You will be redirected to your local county website and contact information. UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer questions for FREE. Happy gardening!
- Author: Lisa Nedlan UCCE Master Gardener
The effectiveness of olla irrigation lies in the interaction between soil moisture and the plant's roots. This dynamic creates a unique suction force, where the plant's roots 'pull' the water out of the olla if the soil is dry. Conversely, if the soil is wet from rainfall or surface watering, the water remains in the olla until the surrounding soil dries, ensuring a balanced and efficient watering system.
Implementing olla irrigation is not just about watering your plants; it's about fostering deep watering and dense root growth. This, in turn, enhances nutrient and water uptake, leading to healthier plants. Additionally, the controlled moisture levels prevent the extremes of wet and dry that can cause bitterness in greens and cracks in tomatoes and melons. As a bonus, the relatively dry soil surface acts as a natural deterrent to weeds and some unwanted insects, further enhancing the health of your garden.
Crops with fibrous root systems, such as tomatoes, squash, melons, and chiles, respond well to olla use. When using ollas with plants with shallow root systems, consider the shape and size of the olla and where the water will be in the soil. You can also use ollas with young perennial landscape plants (trees, vines, and shrubs.) Plants with woody roots might break an olla. If you notice that you are having to fill the pot more frequently, consider that a crack has formed in the olla.
Ollas are inefficient for densely planted annual crops due to the number of ollas necessary for even coverage.
Tips for using ollas
- Bury the olla, leaving 1 – 2 inches above the soil surface to keep dirt and mulch from getting inside. Gently pack the soil around the olla to prevent air pockets. Air pockets will prevent water from moving into the soil and keep roots from growing.
- To maximize impact, place ollas every 2 – 3 feet in the garden. Larger ollas, with a 2 or more-gallon capacity, can be placed up to 3 – 4 feet apart.
- If your soilis very deep, place a saucer or drainage tray under the olla at the bottom of the hole. This will promote water seepage outwards instead of downwards.
- Check the water level frequently and refill as necessary. Soil type, plant density, and weather can influence how often you need to refill. Refill times can vary from every seven days or more or as frequently as every other day.
- Cover the olla opening with a lid, rock, or plate to minimize evaporation and prevent mosquito breeding.
- Ollas are best suited for coarse-textured and/or sandy soil. Soil with a high clay content does not dissipate water well.
- When planting seeds, plant a few inches away from the olla opening. Water the entire planting area. If your olla isn't keeping the top 2 inches of soil moist, you may need to surface water until the seeds germinate.
- Know where your ollas are buried. Mark them with rocks, a pin flag, or something else to prevent someone from stepping on the olla.
- If you live in an area with hard freezes, dig up your olla each winter to prevent cracking underground.
Several types of ollas are available for purchase at garden shops, online, or from your local potter. There are several methods for making your own from clay or terracotta pots. Consider your space, the cost, how many ollas you will need, and how often you are willing to refill them. If you would like to make an olla from terracotta flower pots, click here.
Resources
How to use olla irrigation
https://wateruseitwisely.com/blog/olla-irrigation/
Olla Irrigation
https://images.nativeseeds.org/pdfs/Ollairrigationhandout.pdf
University of Arizona, Irrigating with Ollas
https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1911-2021.pdf
What you do with firewood this upcoming 4th of July (and year-round!) can impact more than just the s'mores on your campfire. If you move firewood around the state, you could spread deadly plant diseases and invasive insects. Don't take firewood with you if you travel or camp this holiday weekend.
Bringing firewood from home, even dry, aged, and seasoned wood, can spread pests. Once you arrive at your destination, pests can emerge from the firewood and spread to the surrounding area. Invasive pests like the emerald ash borer, shothole borers, and goldspotted oak borer, kill millions of healthy trees every year and can be spread to new areas on firewood.
Buy firewood within 50 miles of where you plan to stay or buy firewood that is certified, heat treated. Be a good steward and protect the areas you love; buy it where you plan to burn it!
To learn more, visit https://www.dontmovefirewood.org/.