Precautions and Harvesting Review
A reminder: before consuming edible flowers, one should always proceed with caution. The flowers should come only from your garden or other trusted sources that have not been sprayed with pesticides. Many flowers share common names, so always look for the scientific name (genus and species) to ensure you have the right flowers, since not all flowers are edible.
Harvest fully opened flowers in the morning right after the dew has dried. Carefully wash them, and as needed remove the stamens, styles, pistils, and sepals (the parts that hold the pollen and the green stems that hold petals together). Use as soon as possible for maximum flavor.
Edible Flowers from Fruits & Vegetables
- Squash flowers are often used in Mexican and Latin American cuisine. Use male flowers that have been removed after pollination. They can be stuffed with a variety of foods, and fried or baked as appetizers and side dishes. In addition to being delicious, they look stunning.
- Pea flowers: Rather than letting some flowers become pea pods, pick a few of these flowers to add a mild pea flavor to a salad.
- Onion/Chive flowers are grown primarily for their bulbs or stems. However, the flowers, along with other parts of the plants from this family have a mild garlic or onion flavor that works well in a range of recipes. Some varieties can remain green all year, thus providing a year-round source of flavor for salads, soups, etc.
- Elderflowers are one of the most common examples of edible flowers and are used in a wide range of drinks such as elderflower cordial or syrups.
- Cherry blossoms are also edible from fruiting cherry trees. They are often an ingredient in Japanese cuisine. They can be pickled in salt and vinegar.
- The blossoms from fruiting plums, peach, citrus, and apple trees, and almond trees are also sometimes eaten, but are generally used as garnish or decoration.
Don't Forget Flowers from “Weeds!”
- Dandelion leaves and green ends of the flowers are bitter, while the petals and stamen have a mildly sweet flavor. Like elderberry, dandelion flowers can be used to make cordials or syrups.
- The daisies you might find all over your lawn have little flowers that can be eaten in salads or sandwiches.
- Clover flowers, both the white and red varieties, are both suitable for eating. The red flowers are the most flavorful and can be used in teas, syrups and a range of desserts.
As the two articles from last week and this week on edible flowers show, there is an incredible array of flowers you can choose from to expand your meals, desserts, and decorate your plates. Your local library is a good source for books for ideas, preparation, and recipes. I'm looking forward to collecting summer squash flowers from our vegetable garden, stuffing them, and grilling them!
Denise Godbout-Avant has been a Stanislaus County Master Gardener since 2020.
/h3>/h3>/h3>If your company does residential landscape pest control, your employees should be trained to know what to do when they encounter a vegetable garden, or fruit or nut trees in a yard (Figure 1). Their training should include how to answer a customer's questions about the safety of their pesticides around vegetables or herbs. Talking to a customer about the edible plants in their garden so you don't accidentally spray their plants might save that account from subsequent cancellation.
Is it appropriate for a technician to recommend that a resident simply wash their vegetables after having their yard treated for say, mosquitoes, or should the vegetables be thrown away? What about a perimeter spray around the home? The answer to these questions depends on whether the plants were directly exposed to the sprayed pesticide and what the product label says about proximity to edible crops.
Insecticides used for perimeter sprays and mosquito control generally don't allow application to edible plants. For example, the Suspend Polyzone label states “do not apply this product to edible crops.” The Termidor SC label says, “DO NOT treat within a distance of one foot out from the drip line of edible plants. DO NOT treat fruit-bearing or nut-bearing trees.” Some product labels make no mention of vegetables or edible crops at all. If application on edible plants is not explicitly mentioned, it is not allowed.
Will pesticides make a plant toxic?
Many insecticides, including some common active ingredients familiar to urban pesticide applicators, are used legally on agricultural crops. This is allowed by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) only if that pesticide has been granted a tolerance for a given crop, and certain days-to-harvest intervals are followed. These rules work to ensure that any pesticide residues left after a pesticide application are below levels of concern for human health. The 2019 Pesticide Data Program survey by USDA shows that this system works. Out of 10,000 market food samples analyzed in the study, nearly 99% had residues well below the EPA established tolerances. More than 42% had no detectable pesticide residue.
Insecticide residues on plants are not necessarily acutely toxic, especially when label directions are followed, and adequate time passes to allow the product to naturally degrade. The products used by professional pesticide applicators may contain the same active ingredients used by farmers; but they may differ in concentration and formulation. Most importantly, insecticides used for landscapes and homes do not carry food-treatment labels, so they cannot legally be used on edible crops.
Talstar products, for example, consist of the active ingredient bifenthrin, the same active ingredient used by farmers and even home gardeners under a variety of trade names. The Talstar® P label however, says "do not use on edible crops." You must follow the label for the product you are using.
Spray contamination
If an insecticide is deliberately sprayed on an edible crop or plant, and the product is not labeled for such use, the plant would not be considered safe by EPA standards. The implication is that the whole plant, or at least the edible parts, should be thrown away. Your customer could replant unless that is prohibited by the label.
Backpack mistblowers are commonly used for applying residual insecticides in areas such as mosquito resting sites; but mists should be applied carefully to avoid drift onto fruit and nut trees and vegetable gardens.
Labels generally do not, however, prohibit use of these products in the vicinity of a vegetable garden. Take care to keep sprays directed away from vegetable gardens, so that any incidental drift from nearby spraying does not land on edible plants. Thermal foggers and ULV applications used nearby should leave insignificant residues if the application orifices are always directed away from edible plants.
Applicators should always be aware of weather conditions and the locations of edible plants. If wind is blowing toward a garden, upwind applications should be avoided.
What should you do if a fruit, nut, vegetable, or herb is accidentally sprayed? Notify the customer that an accidental spray contamination has occurred. Annual plants should be pulled. For both annual and perennial plants, the produce must be discarded by the customer and not eaten.
Systemic insecticides
Some insecticides are "systemic," meaning they have enough water solubility to be taken up by plant roots and translocated to other parts of the plant. Although the EPA allows some systemic insecticides on crops, in general systemics are not labeled for use on food crops because they can leave residues in edible plant tissues that do not quickly degrade.
Insecticides containing neonicotinoids and acephate are examples of professional grade insecticides that may be systemic in plants. These include products like Premise, Alpine, Tandem, Transport, Temprid, Orthene and others. Herbs and other root or leafy vegetables exposed to systemic insecticides should be considered contaminated for the season and should not be consumed.
Some termiticides can also be systemic in plants, leading to concerns about vegetable gardens and fruit trees planted next to homes treated for termites. Fipronil, for example, is slightly systemic in some plants; and the Termidor SC label says not to apply around edible plants. The label does not say explicitly how far away an edible plant must be, although the Premise Pro label (whose active ingredient, imidacloprid, is much more water soluble) is more specific. It says to "not treat within a distance of one foot out from the drip line of edible plants." The Premise instruction is probably a good, conservative guidelines for all termiticides. Keep the outermost leaves of garden plants at least a foot away from any soil-applied termiticide.
Washing Crops
A concerned customer whose nearby yard or house perimeter has been treated with an insecticide spray should consider washing their vegetables or other harvested edibles. Washing is a good idea whether p
esticides have been used or not. The best washing technique is to gently rub off any dirt while holding the produce under running water. This is a great way to remove dust, microorganisms, and any traces of pesticides from vegetable and fruit surfaces.
Would you recognize an edible plant?
Can you and your technicians and applicators tell basil from begonia, mint from marigold, or pear from poplar? Applicators following label directions around a home needs to be aware of what plants are present. You don't have to be a botanist or know all the local tree species; but you should recognize the most common fruit and nut trees, herbs, and vegetables (Figure 2).
When visiting a residence for the first time, ask your customer if they have any herbs, fruit trees, nut trees, or vegetables. Gardeners may plant edible plants within flower gardens, so they might have a basil plant or a tomato plant growing among the daisies. Assume your customers don't use pesticides in their vegetable garden and avoid these areas accordingly.
Your customers will appreciate any extra consideration you give to their edible garden plants. Treat them well and they might even greet you at the door with a big bag of zucchini!
Based on the article “Bugs and basil: Insecticides and veggies don't always mix” by Dr. Mike Merchant, Texas AgriLife Extension at https://insectsinthecity.blogspot.com/2018/08/pesticides-and-veggie-gardens.html
[Originally featured in the Fall 2021 edition of the Green Bulletin Newsletter for structural and landscape pest professionals.]
/span>/span>/h2>/h2>/h2>/h2>/h2>Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa
MGCC's Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting Master Gardeners about your fava beans. And, thank you very much for sending the photo. It was very helpful.
I do not think that the fava beans was damaged by the frost. Frost damage generally appears on the tops of plants rather than the bottoms. Also, fava beans are generally hardy down to 21 degrees. Unless you are in a severe microclimate area, we have yet to see temperatures that low this winter.
Instead, I believe that the beans may have been affected by a fungal disease called Chocolate Spot (Botrytisfabae). Chocolate Spot has been found in fava beans in the northern San Joaquin Valley which is not far from us. Chocolate Spot begins with small red-brown lesions on leaves and stems which can expand and, in an aggressive form, can lead to necrosis (death) of leaves and stem tissue. The aggressive form occurs in high humidity situations, so, if this is the disease you are seeing, it could have come from the earlier rains. I noticed also from the picture that there is a lot of plant material (weeds?) around the fava bean patch which could have also raised or maintained a higher humidity level. It is also possible that this is from some other fungus, but in any case I would suggest hand weeding in the area to increase air circulation to the plants.
With the weeding, it may be possible to save the plants for this year. You have some flowers that would provide you with some beans to enjoy. However, if you are interested in a larger crop you may want to remove these plants now and replant in February or March. That is the planting time for growing fava beans as an edible (as opposed to cover) crop. In either case, once you are done with the plants, I recommend pulling them up and putting them in the commercial green bin for disposal rather than your compost pile. You should also avoid digging them into the soil, since that could cause the fungus to spread.
One other tip: You had mentioned and the photo shows that the plants had fallen over. I have found that to be a common problem with fava beans myself. I use my tomato cages in fava bean patches in my garden to help keep the plants upright.
For more information on fava beans, please see: http://sfp.ucdavis.edu/pubs/brochures/favabean/
While this link is farm-oriented, it has some good background information.
I hope this is helpful. Please let us know if you have further questions or would like more information.
Good luck with your favas!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (ECS)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
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Seedlings for winter greens
By UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
![Seedlings for winter greens Seedlings for winter greens](http://ucanr.edu/blogs/uccemgsantaclaranews/blogfiles/38337.jpg)
Ornamental shrubs, trees, lawns, and countless unknown plants fill most landscapes. These plants provide shade, beauty, and erosion protection, but you can't eat them.
As older plants are replaced, or new areas are developed, consider adding edible plants to the landscape. Often more flavorful than grocery store produce, homegrown edibles come in all shapes and sizes, making it easy to match any landscape design. Gardens are not limited to traditional rows of tilled soil. Even if all you have is a balcony or a sunny window, you can grow edible plants!
What do these plants need?
Nutrient rich soil, adequate water, and 6-8 hours of direct sunlight are all that's needed by most plants. Our soil tends to be heavy clay, which holds more water than other soil types, but it can be a tough barrier for young roots. Adding compost and mulching your soil will make it more hospitable and productive. If you have shady areas, mint, blackberries, chives, spinach and parsley can be planted. Before planting, be sure to read and follow the directions for specific planting depth, sun and water needs, and spacing. Mature plant sizes should be kept in mind, too. Some of those tiny seeds turn in to really big plants!
Creative Planting 101: Towers, Containers & Raised Beds
Many edible plants can be grown in containers, towers, or repurposed pallets. While there are many vertical or container gardens for sale, a little creativity can go a long way to adding edibles to a landscape without spending a lot of money. Leaky buckets, broken down wheelbarrows, plastic coffee tubs, even old boots can be used as planting containers! Just make sure there is good drainage.
Raised beds are easy to make and they have the added benefit of being easier to weed and work than traditional garden beds. They also allow the soil to get and stay warm sooner, extending the growing season.
The Stuff of Salads
Lettuce, spinach, radishes, arugula, onions, garlic, fennel, cucumber, tomatoes and peppers can be added to most landscapes. Alternating green Romaine and red leaf lettuces make a lovely border. Repeat planting can provide many months of edible landscape. Cucumbers, squash and melons can be trained up a fence or trellis, providing beautiful greenery and blooms, plus a surprising bounty of food.
Culinary Herbs
Herbs are very easy to grow and most of them require little to no care once they are established. Tender basil is an exception, but its favor more than makes up for the effort. Thyme, lavender, lemon balm, chives, lemon grass, parsley, cilantro, and sage all grow well from seed. Most of these plants are perennial, which means they will last for many years. Instead of traditional house plants, mint and oregano drape beautifully from a hanging planter and they add flavor to many favorite foods. They can be paired with a more upright plant, such as chives, to make the most of the space and provide twice as much food.
Fruits & Nuts
Fruit and nut trees, bramble fruits, and vines add value to property and they produce delicious edibles each year. Dwarf fruit trees can be grown on balconies, in containers. Bramble fruits, such as raspberry or blackberry, can be grown along a fence, providing extra protection along with luscious fruit. Instead of an ornamental trumpet vine over your pergola, why not plant grapes? Just picture those sweet clusters hanging above your head, only an arm's reach away.
You can learn more about edible gardening from your local UC Master Gardeners. Check out the Vegetable Planting Chart for Santa Clara County. Free talks are regularly offered to the public. For more information, check our events page. For gardening questions, ask online or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
This article first appeared in the May 13, 2016 issue of the Morgan Hill Times.
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Remove all lower leaves, keeping just the top two to three sets. Allow the wounds to heal for a few days, then plant in a deep hole or sideways in a trench so that only the remaining leaves are above the soil. Roots will form where the leaf nodes were, resulting in a stronger, more stable plant as it grows.
Prepare your soil by mixing in 2 to 3 inches of compost. Add in some organic fertilizer if your soil is lacking in nutrients. For raised beds or containers, add in some fresh potting soil and slow-release organic fertilizer to ensure plants have the nutrition they need to grow and produce.
Choose an area that gets 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day.
To avoid problems with fungus and disease, don't plant in an area where in the past three years you have grown tomatoes or plants from the same family, including eggplants and peppers.
Rotating your crops will help to avoid fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt, two common fungal diseases that affect tomatoes.
Fusarium wilt invades the plant through its roots. It is a serious problem that causes branches and leaves to become yellow and wilt; infected plants usually die. Look for plants labeled "F," which means they are resistant to fusarium.
Verticillium wilt causes leaves to yellow and turn brown before dropping off. The infection usually appears in a V-shaped pattern. Although it is seldom fatal, it reduces vigor and yield. Due to significant leaf drop, sun damage to the fruit also may occur. Buy plants labeled "V" or "VF."
Blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, often a result of irregular watering as well as a lack of calcium in the soil. Symptoms first appear as a water-soaked spot near the blossom end of the fruit. The spot will become brown, leathery and sunken, and may cover half of the fruit's surface. It's unsightly, but the fruit is still edible -- just cut off the damage and enjoy the rest. Avoid blossom end rot with regular and deep irrigation.
Another common tomato ailment is tobacco mosaic virus. It causes light green, yellow or white mottling on leaves, which may become stringy or distorted. It is usually caused by contact with tobacco products. Don't smoke or allow tobacco in or near your garden. Look for disease-resistant plants labeled "T."
Tomato and tobacco hornworms cause extensive damage to both plant and fruit. Look for black droppings or eggs on the leaves. It is best to hand-pick and discard them. If necessary, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis.
Russet mites are minute pests that can't be seen by the naked eye. Use a hand lens to identify their yellowish, conical-shaped bodies. They feed on leaves, stems and fruit, and if not controlled they will usually kill the plant. Apply sulfur dust or spray to young plants, and avoid planting near petunias, potatoes or other solanaceous plants that are often a host for the pest.
Blossom drop is caused by environmental issues. Insufficient pollination, lack of water, extremely high or low temperatures, and even smog -- all conditions we can't control -- are to blame.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the May 1 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.