- Author: Alison Collin
Having spent best part of a week painstakingly trying to remove every scrap of Dichondra which has overrun a blueberry patch I am firmly of the opinion that it ranks with Bermuda grass as one of the most obnoxious weeds.
Dichondra micrantha was often planted as a lawn substitute until infestations of flea beetles proved devastating in some areas. It has small green leaves reminiscent of miniature water lily pads and spreads to make a dense mat by thread-like surface runners. It likes rich moist soil - just like blueberries.
We know not where the origination of this infestation began, but the blueberries were planted about seven years ago and have been mulched annually with a fairly thick top dressing of peat and fertilized using organic products. The first few strands of dichondra appeared about three years ago and grew quite rapidly, but it was fairly easy to remove from the soft peaty areas around the plant. However, this year the problem became much more serious, due mainly to lack of time to keep on top of it.
What to do? Blueberries hate to have their roots disturbed, so hoeing is not an option, neither would a selective weedkiller be safe, so there was nothing for it but to get down on ones hands and knees and try to undermine the mats of weed while taking great care not to move or damage the blueberry roots. The roots of the dichondra are very fragile, and tiny pieces easily broke off, and even with judicious use of my Japanese hand hoe, I was constantly aware of the fact that I was unearthing the blueberry roots.
When I had got the soil as clean as possible, I applied a layer of peat, and covered that with thick black landscape fabric cut to fit around the plants as best as the multi-stemmed growth would allow. Concerned that in our desert climate this might result in overheating of the blueberry roots, I then applied a thick layer of pine needles as a mulch.
Only time will tell if all this effort will pay off, but I know that we will have to be vigilant next season and pull out any dichondra as soon as it reappears from any area of the garden.
Has anyone else been able to manage such a weed in an effective and permanent way? If so we should love to hear from you!
- Contributor: Laurie Morrow, Volunteer InyoMono Master Gardeners.
Growing Blueberries in the Eastern Sierra
Growing blueberries is a relatively new trend in the Eastern Sierra. Our climate and soils are not ideally suited to growing them, but with a little help you may be able to raise plants that produce a small to moderate amount of fruit.
Local nurseries carry the varieties best suited to our area. The general name for these types are northern highbush blueberries for areas north of Independence and southern highbush for Independence to the southern Owens Valley. Blueberries are self-fruitful, but better crop production is obtained with 2 or more similar varieties.
Things to consider when planting blueberries:
Site Selection - Find a location that gets sun most of the day, but late afternoon shade is favorable. Don't plant bushes against a south or west facing wall. This may encourage the plant to flower too early and be damaged by late frosts.
Soil Requirements - Ideally, blueberries want a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Our soils are generally in the 7 – 8 range. When planting use a mixture of composted organic matter and peat moss. Soil needs to drain quickly, standing water will drown the bush. If you need to improve drainage add additional organic matter and sand. Blueberries will not tolerate high salinity soils and may not be a good choice for Chalfant.
Growing Requirements - Deep water your plants and apply 1 to 2 inches per week.
Mulching conserves moisture, controls weeds and protects roots from extreme temperatures. Blueberries are shallow rooted and are susceptible to winter kill. Fall watering and good mulching will prevent dieback.
Don't fertilize your bushes at planting time. In subsequent years apply a balanced fertilizer prior to buds appearing. Water in thoroughly. In May, apply a high nitrogen (21-0-0) fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and water in thoroughly, this will help to acidify the soil.
Pruning - In the first two growing seasons only remove damaged or dead wood. No pruning is required until the plant is 3 years old. Severe pruning produces fewer but larger berries and more new growth. Berries are produced on second and third year canes. Prune in winter or early spring. Remove weak side shoots in top of plant. To increase fruit size, head back shoots that have an abundance of flower buds.
Plants generally don't reach full fruit production until the 6th growing season.
If you have specific questions about your blueberry bushes please contact the Master Gardener Help-line at (760) 872-2098.
Further reading and references:
http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/filelibrary/5842/25993.pdf “Growing Blueberries in the Sacramento Region” UC ANR Publication #88
http://www.blueberrycouncil.org/growing-blueberries/ US Highbush Blueberry Council