- Author: Jan Rhoades
Do you recycle? Compost? Plant a vegetable garden? Have fruit trees? Raise chickens? If so, you are already practicing permaculture.
A while back, a fellow Master Gardener shared an article about permaculture, which enticed me to research and explore local permaculture practices. The term ‘permaculture' was coined in the mid-1970's by two Australians, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren, to describe a philosophical approach to living and gardening: permanent culture and permanent agriculture. What sparked this line of thought was a reaction to the petroleum shortages of the era, food shortages, and the desire for self-reliance. Combining philosophy and practical application, permaculture encompasses anything from recycling, reusing and regeneration, to simply observing.
Most formal definitions explain that permaculture is an ecological design system for sustainability in all aspects of human endeavor. Inspired by nature, it teaches how to design natural homes and abundant food production systems, regenerate degraded landscapes and ecosystems, develop ethical economies and communities, and much more. As an ecological design system, permaculture focuses on the interconnections between things more than individual parts.
Permaculture philosophy proceeds from three ethical principles: Care for Earth, Care for People, Care for Community. Design for anything must be held up to these ethics– care of the earth is the prime goal, the root of sustainability. Care of people is rooted in respect for self,family, and culture. Reinvesting surplus creates equality, as everyone gets their fair share– no one takes more than they need.
By adopting these ethics and applying these principles in daily life, a transition from dependent consumers to responsible producers is possible, building skills and resilience to face an uncertain future with less available energy. Permaculture envisions a world of abundance for all beings and aims to supply natural human rights: clean water, clean air, clean food, access to land, safe affordable housing, ethical meaningful work, community, and spiritual freedom.
This philosophy goes beyond Backyard Gardening – it is a very big idea. Yet, the pervasive thought is that agriculture, big or small, is a good place to begin. Permaculturists aim to design agriculturally productive ecosystems that have the stability, diversity and resilience of natural ecosystems. Creating a permaculture environment is a gradual process that involves discerning optimal methods for integrating water catchment, human shelter and energy systems with tree crops, edible and useful perennials, self-seeding annuals, domestic and wild animals and aquaculture. Methods include the use of excess or waste products as nutrients to benefit other elements in the system. Plantings can be arranged in patterns to catch water, filter toxins, absorb nutrients and sunlight and block the wind. Particular associations of trees, perennial vines, shrubs and groundcovers known to nourish and protect one another are clustered together. Ponds and other elements are incorporated in patterns to maximize their edges to take advantage of the increased biological activity at the intersection of two ecosystems.
Since 1981, the permaculture community has offered two-week intensive design courses around the world. These workshops, courses and seminars help to form a loose global network. I recently had the pleasure of participating in a week-long permaculture workshop hosted by the Big Pine Paiute-Shoshone Tribe. This workshop came about as an extension of the idea that tribal sovereignty must include food sovereignty.
In addition to the Big Pine Tribe, there are several entities in the Owens Valley quietly working to incorporate these principles into their work. The Owens Valley Growers Cooperative – along with the Eastern Sierra Certified Farmers Market – espouses these principles in its quest to provide wholesome food for all. The Metabolic Studio (derived from “metabolism”, the process that maintains life) has a goal of transforming resources into energy, actions and objects that nurture life by working to sustain the continuous cycles of creation and destruction of energy and matter. To that end, the Metabolic Studio Soil Exchange (headed by Julie Fought, a Master Gardener) transforms manure, water and waste carbons (leaves,paper, cardboard) into compost. The project aims to capacitate the region toward food sovereignty by offering local growers improved soil. Compost users are encouraged to see their role in the community as one of vital participation. The exchange aims to create community by collaborating with local pack stations, local businesses, neighbors and the larger community. It supports local food production and addresses the issues of healthy food choices in a region that is isolated and economically challenged.
Rooted in and inspired by long-time practices of people and cultures all over the world, permaculture can become a vital tool for food growers and gardeners alike. The facilitator at the Big Pine workshop explained that the first step is always observation– a commonsense, but often overlooked, approach. She encouraged us to: consider the natural inclination of our site along with the needs of its inhabitants; observe light,wind, and water through the seasons to discern microclimates before planting, and; plan plots with a nod to zones. Considerations of which plants will be visited the most and which will require the most tending can help us identify which should be planted closest to the house, thus receiving the attention they need to thrive. Plants placed farthest from the house should be those that require less attention. Beyond that is the wild, undisturbed haven for nature and wild life.
After observation and planning, composting and sheet mulching can help get things growing without turning the soil. Companion planting, natives, and edible landscaping with hardy perennials are encouraged, as is the use of natural predators for pest control. Employing such sustainable practices is economical, beneficial to all living things and,at the end of the day, satisfying, as we observe the fruits of our labor and harvest our daily meals. Perhaps as we enjoy and share these gifts, we can contemplate the “big ideas”of permaculture.
Resources:
- Author: Alison Collin
Originating in the Andes regions of South America, potatoes quickly became a staple food in much of Northern Europe, from there spreading to Northern India and beyond. There are many areas of the world, however, that have not embraced this humble vegetable with much enthusiasm, unless it is presented in the guise of french fries.
Potatoes are easy to grow, exciting to harvest and, when eaten minutes after being dug from the ground, have a flavor that it is impossible to experience from those found in stores. Only the tubers which form on the roots are eaten since all other parts of the plant are poisonous, including any tubers which have been exposed to light and have turned green.
Hundreds of varieties exist with colors that vary from red, yellow, russet, white and even purple. Depending on the structure of the starch in the tuber, the texture can be either waxy (good for salads) or floury (preferred for mashed potatoes). Early varieties are harvested when quite small, while others grow more slowly, become large and store well. Likewise, shapes vary from round to oval and finger-like. In ideal conditions, the yield from 2 pounds of seed tubers can be as much as 50 pounds, although I have never managed achieve that.
In Bishop, I have grown Yukon Gold, Red La Soda, Cal White, Purple Majesty and one that is popular in Fish Lake Valley called Victoria. These varieties have all been consistent with satisfactory yields and not been troubled by any obvious diseases or pests; one year, they had aphids, which responded well to a basic horticultural soap which I had to use only once. Anthocyanin – which gives the purple potatoes their pigment – is an antioxidant and present at four times the amount in these potatoes when compared with russet varieties. Although these tubers are a fabulous color when raw, I found that the grayish color once they had been boiled and mashed rather lacked appeal. Judging by the images for mashed potatoes on Google though, perhaps it is my culinary skill that is lacking.
Potatoes grow best in full sun, with some afternoon shade in the hottest places. They are able to produce in a wide range of soils, but prefer a well-dug sandy loam to which rotted compost or manure has been added. If necessary, a nitrogen fertilizer can be mixed into the soil at planting. They can also be grown in grow-bags or large pots with good compost. Potatoes need a regular supply of moisture, as their tubers will become knobby if the plants are allowed to become too dry between watering. The tops will form a soft-stemmed floppy bush about 2 feet high, so make sure that you have enough room.
Seed potatoes are not seeds at all, but small tubers which become available in catalogs and nurseries in early spring. Buy only certified disease-free stock. Do not use eating potatoes from the grocery store, as these are sprayed with a growth inhibitor to stop them from sprouting in storage and will not have been checked for disease. The best seed potatoes are about the size of a large egg, not withered, and with sprouts just showing where the “eyes” (little indentations) are. Before planting, these sprouts should be developed into shoots. Look carefully at the tuber. One end was attached to the parent plant and will show a slight scar which will not have any sprouts nearby, while the other end will have more plentiful potential shoots showing. Place the tubers with the sprouting end upwards – I use an egg carton to keep them separate - and leave them in a bright but cool, frost-free place for a few weeks until the sprouts have grown a little (about the size of a pencil eraser) and small roots appear at their base. Do not let the shoots become long, drawn and white like those potatoes that one finds forgotten in the back of the pantry. Now it is time to plant!
Place early cultivars 4-5 inches deep and 12 inches apart, with the sprout ends uppermost. Maincrop potatoes will produce better if planted 15 inches apart. If your seed potatoes are on the large side, cut them in half longitudinally or cut into smaller 2-oz. pieces, each with an eye. While the cut surfaces may be allowed to dry for a couple of days before planting, I have never had any luck doing this, and the pieces have invariably rotted. Since I use drip irrigation with emitters at 12-inch intervals, I use 12-inch spacing for all varieties. This seems to work just fine, although the maincrop potatoes are a little smaller.
While early April is the usual recommended planting time for Bishop, I have planted on March 3 for the past four years. Since it takes a couple of weeks for the sprouts to emerge, the temperature is generally warmer once they are up. I have been vigilant about covering them on cold nights, since the sprouts are tender and destroyed by even quite slight frosts. Potatoes do usually have some dormant buds kept in reserve, but I just hate losing all that new growth!
As the plants grow, draw up some soil around the stems - no higher than 6 inches - to form ridges along the rows. As needed, add soil or mulch around the plants to prevent the growing potatoes from being exposed to light (which makes them green and unusable). Keep an eye out for any pests or diseases, and use recommended Integrated Pest Management as necessary. In some areas, potato blight can be devastating, as what occurred during the great Irish Potato Famine, which resulted in severe starvation for the population of an entire country. So far, I have seen no hint of blight in Bishop.
Eventually, the plants will produce either purple or white flowers with the typical Solanum structure. At this point, the early varieties can be harvested by digging up the plant. It is usual to use a fork for digging up the roots. No matter what I use or how careful I am, I always manage to spear or chop the prize specimen! These early tubers will be small with a thin delicate skin which does not need to be removed. The flavor will be delicious. Potatoes grow rapidly at this point and can double their size in a week, so they will come to no harm if left a little longer. Maincrop varieties are harvested well after flowering when the tops have died down. Their skins are thicker and, if undamaged, they will store well in a dark, cool dry place.
Overview of types: http://www.potatoesusa.com/products.php?sec=Table-Stock+Potatoes
Integrated Pest Management: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.potatoes.html
Container planting demo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNml1YeDS5M
- Author: Paula Sayer
You may choose to sow your own seeds to grow interesting cultivars, or to regrow last year's magnificently-producing vegetable. My friend has saved seeds from her tomatoes for the last 6 years. They are now well-adapted to the Bishop climate and thrive here.
Sowing timetable
To plan the best time to start seedlings indoors, find the approximate date of the average last spring frost in your area. Count back from that date the number of weeks from the back of the seed packet to determine the appropriate starting date. A general guide would be:
- 12-14 weeks: onions*, leeks*, chives*, pansies*
- 8-12 weeks: peppers, lettuce*, cabbage-family crops*, hardy annual flowers
- 6-8 weeks: eggplants, tomatoes
- 5-6 weeks: tender annuals
- 2-4 weeks: cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash
(*) indicates a cold-hardy plant that can be set out 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost.
Choosing containers and medium
You can use nearly anything to start the seeds, from yogurt pots to paper milk cartons, homemade wooden flats to purchased seed trays but you may need to transplant them into larger pots once they've germinated. This can be fiddly and set the seedlings back. An alternative is to use biodegradable pots such as cow pots (made from manure), peat pellets or coco fiber pots that go straight into your soil. You can even make pots from newspaper – instructions here. Planting in large individual pots is ideal for plants such as squash and melons that won't grow well if their roots are disturbed.
Plastic (Seedling) trays last for years but should be sanitized by dipping them in a 10% solution of household bleach (1C bleach plus 9C water).
If sowing directly in flats, first line the bottom with a sheet of newspaper to keep soil from washing out.
Scoop pre-moistened planting medium into the containers or flats, and spread it out. Tap the filled container on your work surface to settle the medium, and smooth the surface with your hand. Don't pack it down tightly.
Seeds contain enough nutrients to nourish themselves through sprouting, so a seed-starting mix does not have to contain nutrients but don't use plain garden soil to start seedlings; it hardens into a dense mass that delicate young roots can't penetrate. When transplanting seedlings, use a nutrient-rich potting mix.
Sowing Seeds
Follow directions on the seed packet to space the seeds correctly. Bear in mind that plants have varying germination rates, and you may be better off using more seeds per inch/pot. If too many germinate close together, snip off the weaker seedling(s).
Follow directions to cover the seeds or gently pat the surface of the mix so the seeds and mix have good contact.
Label each kind of seed you plant and gently mist the mix. If using a watering can, use a rose nozzle so you don't wash the seeds out of place. Cover the container, using clear plastic to help retain the humidity for a few days and remove it once germinated.
Finally, put the containers in a warm place where you can check them daily. Seedlings are not tolerant of drying out at all and will die, so it is important to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
If you're using plastic trays, you probably won't need a heating pad, especially if you put it somewhere warm like the top of a refrigerator. Other containers may need some help. Most plants germinate best in a temperature range of 65F-75F. A great idea for a heater is to use non-LED rope lights (LEDs do not provide enough heat.) Attach the lights with cable staples, turn them on, and place the trays on them.
As soon as the seeds start to nudge the surface, ensure they have plenty of light or they will grow spindly. You can buy a fluorescent grow bulb, just make sure the bulb will not give off heat and burn your plants (more info here). Position it an inch or two from the seedlings and raise it as they grow taller. I also use a timer to ensure enough light, and I gently brush the seedlings daily to strengthen the stems.
Stay tuned for a future post from Paula on when to plant your seedlings!
- Author: Dustin Blakey
If you're interested in vines or marginally edible landscape plants, you may want to check out the Akebia quinata vine at the corner of Lagoon and Main St in Bishop at Cobwebs antique shop. It is currently in bloom and appears to be the less common white-flowered type.
Akebia quinata is a fairly aggressive vine that is usually used as an ornamental. It has attractive palmately compound leaves with 5 leaflets that is the inspiration for its species name. While it's blooming (right now!) it has fragrant blossoms. To some they smell roughly like chocolate, leading some to call this plant "chocolate vine." To me it smells like a combination of freesia, privet, and hyacinth, but we all have different noses.
It is not as aggressive as wisteria, but it is no slouch, either. It is considered invasive in some eastern states, but I doubt we'd have much to worry about here in the desert. It will climb up tall trees and anything else it can find. In my opinion, akebia seems to like to grow up a lot better than sideways, unlike wisteria which will grow any which way. A great feature of akebia is that it is mostly evergreen.
Akebia will do best in Owens Valley on east and northern exposures. In my experience, it uses a fair amount of water, though nothing like a hydrangea. It tolerates shade, but if you have shade, chances are you have trees that it will like to grow up. Please don't plant this on your fence if you want to remain friends with your neighbor.
The plant itself is used in traditional Eastern medicine and apparently the fruit is edible. While sweet, it doesn't seem like something that you'd really get excited about eating. It's sort of a pulpy mass of seeds. The jelly-like mass reminds me of frog eggs in appearance.
I've not noticed the white type setting fruit. Maybe it does, but I haven't seen it. The standard purple flowered one will set some fruit, but it seems highly variable. I've noticed that the seeds germinate easily, at least east of the Rockies.
I'd suggest using it as an ornamental. Be willing to give it a haircut on occasion.
- Author: Jan Rhoades
I have always wondered about those free coffee grounds for your garden offered at most Starbucks. I never took them up on the offer, and pretty much decided that it was a good way for them to get rid of untold pounds of grounds and not feel guilty about caffeinating the landfills. Anyway, I have my own grounds to contend with, and that's what got me wondering again. So off I went to internet land and lo and behold, a plethora of posts and articles singing the praises of coffee grounds in the garden, as well as a few warnings and reality checks.
Kit Smith, an El Dorado County Master Gardener, warns that adding unlimited coffee grounds to the compost pile is not a good practice. She explains that coffee grounds include the pulp, hulls and effluent of the coffee bean. Additionally, coffee grounds, though a good source of nitrogen, are acidic, and excess acid prevents the compost heap from heating up enough to decompose. She recommends that grounds make up no more than 15 to 20% of the total compost volume.
Because they are acidic, coffee grounds make good acid mulch. Of course, too much of anything is just too much, so apply coffee grounds in limited amounts. Kit recommends a layer no thicker than half an inch. Working coffee grounds into the soil will improve its tilth, but do this sparingly unless you have acid-loving plants, like camellias and azaleas.
Sharon Lovejoy, the author of Trowel & Error, extols “Our ancestors had it right. Waste not, want not—And that includes coffee grounds.” She recommends them as pure gold for your garden, compost pile, and best of all, your worm bin. She goes on to say that, “From my point of view, the invention of the garbage disposal was one of the worst moments in household and garden history. For every pound of “garbage” washed down the drain, we waste at least 8 gallons of precious water and compostable vegetable matter that could be put to good use in our gardens.
The best article I came across was from Sunset Magazine – they actually sent a batch of Starbucks grounds to a soil lab – Soil and Plant Laboratory Inc., in Bellevue, WA. The findings were encouraging – amending soil with up to 35% grounds will improve soil structure over the short and long term. They should be tilled into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches and will improve the availability of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and copper – negating the need for additional sources of these nutrients. In addition, each cubic yard of coffee grounds provides 10 pounds of nitrogen (0.09% available). The grounds will provide nitrogen in a slow release fashion for use by plants over the long term. It is an excellent soil amendment and is recommended to be used at a rate of 25 to 35% by volume to improve soil structure. The slightly acid properties of the grounds are also a welcome addition, especially here in the west where soil tends more towards the alkaline.
Don't let the opportunity for freebie coffee grounds pass you by. Get courageous and ask your local coffee shop or restaurant to save some of their leftovers for you. Or, after you finish brewing your morning pot of coffee, take that treasure trove of nutrients and compounds out to the compost bin where they can release these compounds as they decompose and make a healthy amendment for the soil in your vegetable garden.
Put one-third coffee grounds, one-third grass clippings and one-third dried leaves into a compost bin. Mix the coffee grounds and carbon-rich matter together thoroughly with a pitchfork.
Allow the compost to develop a soil-like appearance and an earthy aroma before using it. It may take three months or longer for compost to fully break down, depending on the materials used.
Spread a 1-inch layer of moist coffee grounds on the soil in your vegetable garden. Add a nitrogen fertilizer to the soil according to the package directions. The nitrogen fertilizer speeds the decomposition of the coffee grounds and gives your vegetable plants more nutrients Mix the coffee grounds and the fertilizer into the soil with a pitchfork or shovel. Don't leave the coffee grounds on the surface of the soil, exposed to the air and causing them to dry out; dried-out coffee grounds repel water.
Though there was not much hard research on this, many gardeners enthusiastically insist that coffee grounds repel unwanted pests, such as snails and slugs, in your vegetable garden. Personally, I would take a wait-and-see approach to this.
Finally, if you run out of room for coffee grounds in your compost bin, store the remainder in a plastic trash bin until you can use them. The coffee grounds never expire or go bad. Better yet, give them away to gardeners in need. Tea drinking gardeners can compost their bags and leaves, but they cannot be used directly in the soil, so a gift of grounds would certainly be a welcome one.
References
Oregon State University: Coffee Grounds and Composting
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension: Using Coffee Grounds in the GardenCity of Davis: Backyard Composting Guide
Environmental Protection Agency: Composting
How to Compost Coffee Grounds