The current emphasis on water-wise gardening has created an interest in succulents. All succulents are able to store water and food in their leaves, stems and roots. These stored nutrients can be released when needed. This makes them drought tolerant. Succulents require good drainage, deep but intermittent water, bright light, and good air circulation. The soil should be open and airy with low organic matter.
Because many purchased succulents are unmarked, while others are given by friends as cuttings, it can be difficult to know the genus of a particular plant. This is especially the case because the genera of Echeveria, Sempervivum, and Graptopetalum are similar in appearance. However, careful observation will aid in identifying succulents. First, look to see if the succulent is spiky or chubby, and whether it forms rosettes. What is the shape of the leaves? Look at size, texture, and color. Notice if offsets hang from the edges of a rosette, or attach to its center.
Sempervivums are native to Europe. Their value as talismans is reflected in their name semper (always) and vivus (living). This reputation comes from their ability to survive in freezing weather while their leaves stay green. Sempervivums are commonly called Houseleeks or Hen and Chickens. Open rosettes range from one to five inches across and form clumps to two feet or wider. The leaves of Sempervivum are narrower than those of Echeveria, they have pointy tips, andaregray-green to red-brown in color. Small pink, red, or orange star-shaped flowers arise on fleshy stems to 10 inches tall. These succulents reproduce from offsets attached to a stolon (a stem that can take root).The stolon breaks easily, allowing the tiny offsets to roll away before forming roots.
Graptopetalum are native to South America. These succulents are so closely related to Echeveria that they hybridize to form the intergeneric hybrid x Graptoveria. The rosettes are two to five inches in diameter and have gently pointed chubby leaves, noticeably thicker than those of Echeveria. The rosettes grow at the tips of ever-lengthening stems, creating a low cascading grouping about 12 inches tall. Commonly called Mexican Ghost Plant, their leaves are a pale, chalky, ghostlike gold or green. With partial shade and regular water the color changes to a mauve blue. The flowers are star-shaped, large, white-and-red or yellow and one-quarter of an inch in diameter. They bloom in spring and early summer. Graptopetalum reproduces by rosettes that break off and root.
When looking at “mystery” succulents think in terms of leaf shape, color, and thickness. Then look to see if there are offsets. Are the offsets located on stolons or attached to a main stem? Watch for flowers and see if they are bell shaped or star shaped. All of these characteristics will provide information about the genus of the “mystery” succulent.
Table for identifying Echeveria, Sempervivum, and Graptopetalum:
Characteristics of common varieties |
Echeveria |
Sempervivum |
Graptopetalum |
Origin |
North & South America |
Europe |
South America |
Rosette size |
3/4”-20” diameter |
1”-5” diameter |
2”-5” diameter |
Offset Spread |
spread from a main stem |
clumping, stolon held |
rosettes break off from root |
Leaves |
thick & spoon-like |
narrow & pointy |
thickest & rounded |
Leaf color |
gray-green, bluish |
gray-green, red-brown |
chalky gold or green |
Flower shape |
bell shaped |
star shaped |
star shaped |
Flower color |
white, orange, pink, red |
red, yellow, pink |
white/red, yellow |
Flower growth pattern |
on stem amidst leaves |
on stolon from center |
stem from center |
Common name |
Hen & Chicks |
Hen & Chicks |
Ghost plant |
Table created by Barbara Ott
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
What can you do with a plot of land that's empty and full of weeds? Plant a garden and start composting with your neighbors! St. Timothy's Episcopal Church in Gridley, with the help of generous grants from the Episcopal Foundation of Northern California and California Alliance for Community Composting, has transformed the lot next door to the church at 450 Jackson Street into a garden and composting center for the community: a place to grow food or learn how to garden, a drop-off site for compostable kitchen scraps, and a peaceful outdoor space for people to enjoy.
The idea for a community garden at St. Timothy's began back in 2015 with the Gridley Community Roots Garden, which closed in 2018. In addition to the individual garden plots for rent, the church's relaunch of the garden includes a teaching garden which doubles as growing space for food to give away to the community, a children's garden and mud kitchen (for messy outdoor play), an outdoor sink and potting area, and of course shaded seating and pleasant surroundings for those who gather.
The composting program at the garden is expanding thanks to a grant from California Alliance for Community Composting (CACC) funded by CalRecycle. St. Timothy's currently composts about 75 pounds of kitchen scraps weekly, with the capacity (and goal) to triple that amount, significantly reducing the amount of organic waste going to the landfill. All compost produced at the garden will be used in the garden or shared with those who donate kitchen scraps.
To sign up to bring kitchen scraps to The Garden at St. Timothy's, go to Butte Environmental Council - Composting and scroll down to find the links to Gridley. When you sign up, you can request a complimentary 5-gallon bucket with a lid.
With faith that the grant funds would come through, St. Timothy's began preparations for the garden in July 2022: cutting weeds and clearing rubbish, grading and leveling the ground and solarizing the soil to kill weeds. The church paid for a new chain link fence on the alley side of the garden.
By the fall of 2022, volunteers were digging trenches, repairing existing piping, and installing new in-ground irrigation pipe and sprinkler valves for the watering system. Old lumber left over from the first garden was repurposed to build a potting bench, outdoor sink, and mud kitchen for children.
In March of 2023, new redwood was purchased to construct the garden beds, and many volunteers showed up to tackle the job of filling the beds with soil and compost. Pathways between beds were covered with donated wood chips.
The newest addition to the garden is an 8' x 16' greenhouse that is currently under construction. Other plans include comfortable benches and a small fountain at the center of the garden, espaliered fruit trees, a rainwater recovery system, and a redwood deck at the front garden entrance.
You don't need to be an experienced gardener to get started at St. Timothy's. There are lots of resources and support (everything from tools to seeds), as well as guidance from UC Master Gardeners of Butte County! A recent seed-starting event at the garden attracted a friendly mix of new and experienced gardeners and volunteers who had fun planting seeds in flats (for transplanting outside later this spring). Other recent events included free public talks about composting and the 1,000 Acres More program by Amy Roseman of Butte County Local Food Network.
Butte County Local Food Network has donated a “Free the Food” stand to The Garden at St. Timothy's, so that gardeners can share their produce with the community, and the community can bring food to share with others as well: fresh, whole vegetables and fruits are welcome. The food stand will soon be located in front of the church at 410 Jackson Street.
The Garden at St. Timothy's is growing, thanks to the many gardeners, volunteers, and other folks who have provided ideas, effort, enthusiasm and support. There's plenty of room in the garden and it's always open…come and take a look!
The Master Gardeners' Spring Workshop Series has begun! There will be 15 more workshops on a variety of topics (including composting) between now and May 22. For information about the workshops, and to register, go to our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
If you plan to travel this summer, now might be a good time to install an automatic watering system. Doing so can ensure that your plants will not be under-watered or over-watered in your absence.
Drip irrigation is the tool that can help you minimize water wastage and maximize water's benefits to your garden. Drip watering is the frequent, slow application of water to soil through emitters or micro-sprinklers. Drip irrigation works well for vegetable gardens, ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs, vines, and outdoor container plants. Even without an automatic sprinkler system installed, a drip system can be set up using a standard garden hose attached to the main drip line.
Installation of a basic, simple drip system is quite straightforward, and easily within the grasp of most home gardeners. It goes together much like a tubular erector set, all snapping together. Main one-half-inch (1/2”) or five-eighths inch (5/8”) polyethylene tubing line connects to your water source (if you're on well water, you need a filter on the water source). Drip emitters, microsprinklers, or ¼” spaghetti tubing with emitters can be installed off the main line using barbed connector fittings that poke into the main lines. Solid spaghetti tubing can also be attached to the main line with an emitter attached at the other end to provide water directly to the plant. Alternatively, main line poly tubing can be purchased with in-line emitters pre-installed inside the tubing. Both the main poly tubing line or the in-line emitter tubing can be snaked through your beds or circled around shrubs and trees to deliver water directly to your plants.
The second consideration for smart watering is consistency. An automatic watering system is extremely consistent because it runs on a set schedule.
The timing and amount of water you deliver depends on the plants to be watered and the soil type. Depending upon your soil's density, water will move quickly or slowly through it. For example, water poured through sand will move very quickly because sand is loose rather than dense or compact. But water poured through clay will trickle very slowly. Consider the plant's whole root structure within your particular type of soil. An effective water system will deliver water to the entire root structure. The goal is to water for deep, strong roots that that aren't waterlogged.
Watering is an active relationship that requires constant adjustments. You may need to tinker with your system to make seasonal changes, fix broken pieces, and make adjustments for better efficiency.
While drip irrigation is a good way to achieve efficient watering, it is not absolutely necessary. What is necessary is analyzing your own plants and determining how to best meet their needs given your personal situation. If you are a gardener who travels frequently, implementing a reliable automatic watering system will reassure you that your plants will remain happy, well watered, and growing until you return.
Even more helpful can be an in-person workshop, and drip irrigation is the topic of a workshop April 17 at the Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch, one of many in the Master Gardeners' Spring Workshop Series. For more information about this and the other workshops in the series, and to register, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Quiet, solitude and a connection with nature can be vital to one's peace of mind. Health care centers and hospitals have discovered this, and often incorporate garden spaces into their architectural designs with an eye towards reducing anxiety and improving recovery.
Garden spaces specifically designed for this purpose are called healing or restorative gardens. Guidelines for them include water features, artworks, plants with different textures and seasonal color changes, comfortable seating, and accessibility. Ideally at least seventy percent of outdoor space should be planted in greenery. Plenty of seating in both sun and shade can offer private spaces for those who wish to be alone, and adjacent benches where groups of visitors can gather.
If these therapeutic gardens can be so powerful for healing in hospitals, why not create one in your own yard? Gardens are wonderful spaces for connecting with nature: merely stepping out in the garden provides an instant reprieve from the day's weariness and provides us with a heightened awareness. You can extend that benefit by creating a space in your garden specifically for relaxation and mindfulness.
There are four types of healing gardens to consider: 1) a meditation garden is designed to invitequiet reflection and reduce stress; 2) a rehabilitation garden is not only good for reducing stress but also good for the garden, by providing shelter and food for birds and pollinators like bees and butterflies; a restorative garden focuses on calm healing through horticultural therapy from colorful plants, water features, and natural elements; and an enabling garden aims for therapeutic results from active gardening (e.g. planting, weeding, pruning, harvesting). You can pick and choose from all four of these garden types to create the healing garden space best suited to your needs.
The most important factor in designing such a space is noise. A corner of the backyard next to a busy street or noisy neighbors will not be very calming. A welcoming, comfortable spot to sit is a necessity. Screens for privacy, pathways, water features, wind chimes or bells, rocks or statuary can become elements of design. Grasses and plants will provide texture. Look for seasonal color and native plants to add interest, and don't underestimate the therapeutic benefits of fragrant plants like lavender, thyme, and rosemary. Plants in containers can be moved into a covered area during winter, then brought out again when the weather warms up.
Dream, plan, and design your way to a healing garden best suited to all five senses and your own personal needs.
If the sounds and activities of birds are important components of your ideal healing garden, consider attending “Native Gardens for the Birds,” an upcoming Master Gardener workshop on Friday, April 12th. For more information about this and the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Spring Workshop Series, and to register, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
As concern grows over the decline in the honey bee population, alternative pollinators are gaining attention. Mason bees, which are native to North America, are one option. These gentle-natured bees do not produce honey but they excel at pollinating and are easy to raise.
The mason bee is a solitary bee which lives in natural cavities such as woodpecker holes or hollow stems. They also seem to be just as happy in artificially-constructed nests, so long as these nests include tubes made of cardboard or paper where the female bee can lay her eggs.
Purpose-built nests, often called bee boxes, are set out in early spring when daytime temperatures regularly reach 55 degrees. The bee box is placed outside, facing south in a location that is sunny but protected from wind and rain. Because mason bees will not fly farther than three hundred yards from their nest, bee boxes must be located within range of fruit trees and flowering plants.
The mason bee gathers pollen on her underside. As she zig-zags among the blossoms she is picking up and dropping off pollen, thus pollinating the flowers as she travels. One mason bee can pollinate 2,000 blossoms in a single day. She brings pollen back to her nest and deposits it at the back of the tube, making a mound on which she will lay one egg. She then seals the space off with mud to create a cell. It is because they use mud in their nest construction that they are called mason bees.
All this activity can be closely watched since the bees don't sting. The female can be seen heading into her chamber when she is laden with pollen, and backing into her chamber when she is about to lay an egg. Sometimes she just likes to rest in the front of the chamber. This activity continues for six to eight weeks, and then the mother bee dies.
Mason bee larvae hatch a few days after their eggs are laid. The larvae eat the pollen the mother has provided and then each larva goes into a pupal stage. The following spring, the adult bees emerge. The males emerge from the nest first, the females follow, and the process begins all over again.
More information on mason bees can be found at the Crown Bees website.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.