- Author: Max Light-Pacheco
- Editor: Noni Todd
Wildlife Habitat
By Max Light-Pacheco UCCE Master Gardener
I want to provide an enticing refuge in my yard for wildlife. How can I make this happen? Anne L. San Luis Obispo
What a wonderful idea! In fact, if you want your garden to thrive, you will need a variety of bees, butterflies, birds and other vertebrates to help. It's truly a community effort. A wildlife habitat must include food, water, cover, and shelter for little critters. Such an environment will attract pollinators and other beneficials to your yard. This balance of plants and fauna can reduce the need for pesticides and other chemicals. Increasing the biodiversity will ring beauty into your space and have a community of helpers to help maintain your garden.
First choose plants that provide food and shelter and those that will best fit into your landscape. Native plant species that support wildlife are often energy and water efficient and, perhaps more importantly, create balance in nature as certain plants and animals have evolved together over the centuries.
Water is another requirement for wildlife. A birdbath or ground level water source is sufficient. Another option is to develop a water garden by diverting water into an area to create a wetland for wetland species.
Space is needed for courtship and mating, to bear and raise their young. They need protection from the elements and from predation. Diverse native plant communities provide varied sources of food, cover and space for mating and raising young. Dead trees, brush piles, fallen logs in your yard would closely mimic their natural habitat.
Purchasing prefabricated homes for wildlife is one option, but it's not the same as restoring native plant communities. Always research before you purchase. Any manmade structure will require maintenance.
For further information on creating a habitat for local wildlife, please watch UC Master Gardener's Advice To Grow By on Instagram Live on August 21 at noon. Master Gardener, Susie Silva, will discuss the benefits of using the garden to create a wildlife habitat. Her credo is to “Nurture the nature that we have in our own yards.” The National Wildlife Federation's Wildlife Habitat Certification program at www.nwf.org/garden-for-wildlife. walks you through the process for certifying your garden as a Wildlife Habitat.
- Author: Leslie Stevens
- Editor: Noni Todd
Parrot's Beak
By Leslie Stevens UCCE Master Gardener
Lotus berthelotii
lanting areas: Sunset Zones 9, 15-24, H1
Size: 8-12 inches high with 2-to-3-foot long trailing stems
Bloom season: Spring through summer
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Pruning needs: shear to maintain shape, size and bushiness
Water needs: Relatively drought tolerant once established; requires well-drained soil to avoid rot.
Snapshot:
If your garden could use a shot of color and a touch of whimsy, Parrot's Beak could be for you. This tropical perennial derives its common name from its abundance of flamboyant bird-beak shaped flowers in striking shades of yellow, orange and red.
This Canary Islands native thrives in our mild coastal climate zones where it enjoys full sun and nearly frost-free weather. It also prefers cooler nights that promote blooming. In colder winter areas, it can be grown as a summer annual.
Parrot's Beak's long stems covered in fine, silvery-gray leaves make an attractive ground cover. It's also very effective cascading down walls or over boulders. Or better yet, grow this bushy, exuberant bloomer in a large pot where it's sure to become a garden focal point.
This member of the Lotus family is relatively disease free and easy to grow in its proper climate. It will not tolerate water-saturated soils that can lead to root rot. Also monitor plants regularly for aphids, spider mites and mealy bugs. Wash off with strong water spray. If that doesn't work, apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Now, sit back and admire this handsome prolific bloomer!
- Author: Carol Michael
- Editor: Noni Todd
Preserve Your Tomatoes
By Carol Michael UCCE Master Food Preserver
Our tomato vines are heavy with fruit. We have plenty for sandwiches, salsa and salads.
Can you give suggestions to safely preserve them for winter? Jason R., San Luis Obispo
There are many methods to preserve tomatoes. There's drying, canning, freezing; relishes, plus sauces: catsup, chili, and pasta. The possibilities are endless.
Drying is the simplest and least expensive method of preservation. Drying removes moisture from the food, destroying microorganisms and preventing their growth. It extends shelf life by slowing down natural enzymes that make food soft, and mushy. Drying concentrates their flavor, adding richness to recipes, and it is a great method to preserve cherry, grape, or Roma tomatoes. There are many delicious ways to cook with them! Add to salads, soups, pastas, pizzas, frittatas, sandwiches, and biscuits. They make a quick snack. If you have a dehydrator, set to 140°F, and follow manufacturers' directions. Or use your oven to dehydrate tomatoes. This oven-dried tomato recipe is delicious and easy.
Oven Dried Tomatoes (adapted from www.thekitchn.com)
Ingredients:
- cherry, grape, or plum tomatoes
- fine sea salt or seasoned salt
- option; Mediterranean herb mix
Instructions: Heat oven to 200°F or lowest setting. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Place them cut-side-up on the baking sheet or a rack to help with the drying process.
- Lightly sprinkle tomato halves with salt, and dried herb mix, if desired.
- Bake for 3.5-4.5 hours, or until the tomatoes are dry, watching so they don't burn. You will know the tomatoes are dried sufficiently when they bend but not snap or break. There should be no sticky areas, and no moisture produced when bent.
- Remove from the oven, cool and store.*
*Place dried tomatoes into an airtight container and allow them to condition for several days at room temperature. Shake or stir daily to allow moisture from less dry pieces move to pieces which are drier. There should be no moisture buildup in the container. Return to the oven or dehydrator for further drying if needed.
Freezer Storage: Spread dried tomatoes in a layer on a parchment-covered baking sheet or plate. Then transfer to the freezer for at least 2 hours. Transfer tomatoes to a freezer-safe bag, squeeze out extra air, or use a freezer safe container. Freeze for up to 3 months.
- Author: Leslie Stevens
- Editor: Noni Todd
Japanese Barberry
By Leslie Stevens UCCE Master Gardener
Red Leaf Japanese Barberry
Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'
Planting areas: Sunset Zones A3, 2b – 24. Hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit
Size: 4-6 feet, tall and wide; pygmy varieties 1-1/2 to 2 feet, tall and wide
Bloom season: Tiny, bright yellow flowers in spring
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Pruning needs: Shear in late winter to maintain size and shape; prune out oldest stems as needed
Water needs: Drought tolerant once established
Snapshot: This deciduous shrub's popularity on the West Coast is well deserved. Japanese Barberry's compact size fits nicely into smaller landscapes, while its rich burgundy foliage provides attractive contrast to green shrubs and lawns. It's especially striking against chartreuse.
It's also not fussy when it comes to soil as long as it's not soggy. Japanese Barberry uses water sparingly; requires little care; and deer, slugs and snails avoid it.
Barberries make excellent hedges as well as effective barriers due to their dense, slender, spine-covered branches that deter animals and potential intruders.
In autumn and winter bright red berries adorn branches, while leaves take on yellow and orange tones before falling.
Barberries are native to Japan and eastern Asia and were imported to the United States in the late 1800's. They are widely planted throughout North America, but are considered invasive in many parts of the Eastern United States.
- Author: Jutta Thoerner
- Editor: Noni Todd
Cucumber Beetle
By Jutta Thoerner UCCE Master Gardener
Western Spotted Cucumber Beetle
Diabrotica undecimpunctata
Region of county most prolific: all areas
Size: 1/5 inch long, 1/10 inch wide.
Season most prolific: spring, early summer
Bug environment: Adult beetles are found on leaves; grubs are in soil.
IPM: http://ipm.ucamr.edu/pmg/r116300511.html
Snapshot: The western spotted cucumber beetle shows itself with 12 black spots on a light green wing covers in the garden. This small beetle is a destructive pest than can kill young seedlings before the 3rd leaf stage and will cause considerable damage to adult plants through feeding on flowers and leaves. They also attack young melons and cucumbers, leaving scar- like marks. Adults will lay eggs at the base of non-host plants like grasses or corn in the soil. Eggs (laid in pale, orange-yellow clusters) will hatch after several weeks and larvae (3/8 inch and cream colored) will feed on plants roots and underground stems. It takes 40-60 days to develop from egg to adult. There is typically one generation per year. The adults prefer cucurbit plants like cucumber and squashes, but also feed on leaves and flowers of radish, mustard, lettuce, roses, beans, peppers and even tomatoes.
Non-pesticide options for reducing damage include the following. Use row covers until plants flower. Plant a trap crop of desirable plants close to the plants you want to protect. Options include radishes, mustards or Swiss chard. If high infestation occurs, low toxicity insecticides, such as neem oil, can be applied to the trap crop if you find more than 25% of a plant defoliated. Preventive measures for the following year include keeping the garden clean. Remove all leaf litter and weeds as these are potential hosts for adults. Monitor your garden in the spring, catch and destroy beetles as they emerge. Make it a game and challenge yourself to stay one step ahead.
