Photo by Andrea Peck

Kiwi

By Andrea Peck   UCCE Master Gardener

Kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa)

Planting Area: Full Sun, USDA Zones 7-9

Size: Grows 15'-30' tall and 6;-10' wide

Bloom Season: Spring

Fruit Season: Fall

Exposure: Sensitive to frost/freeze.

Pruning Needs: Twice yearly

Water Needs: Medium.

Snapshot:

The kiwifruit is tart, sweet, packed with Vitamin C, and despite all cautionary appearances, the fuzzy exterior is as edible---and delicious---as the interior. Aesthetically, and for maximum fruit gleaning, the vine grows best on a pergola, trellis, or similar supporting structure. Kiwi blooms during the spring and fruits in the fall. During the non-active seasons, the kiwi is a beautiful vine with large, rounded leaves and a somewhat disorderly, yet attractive, mien.

Kiwi grows best in a sunny, but protected location. Pick a spot away from harsh winds, extreme heat, and frost.  The kiwi thrives in loose, well-drained soil and prefers moderately moist soil. Though there are varietals that are self-fertilizing, most kiwi vines are dioecious, meaning that the female plant produces fruit only after the flower is pollinated by the male plant. Timing here is key since the male and female plants must be ready for business at the same time. If you are interested in growing and harvesting fruit (and who isn't?) then you will need to get both a male and a female cultivar or one that self-fertilizes.

Though the fun factor of the hairy kiwi cannot be disputed, there are hairless, or smooth-skin varieties such as Anna, Issai, and Ken's Red. Smooth-skin types are generally much smaller; Ken's Red has red, not green, flesh.Each cultivar has different needs so be sure to pick one best suited to your home.

Plant your kiwi after the chance of frost, preferably in the spring. During the first winter, prune the vine to one straight 'trunk.' Each winter thereafter, prune each branch to 8-10 buds. The kiwi does not have a high need for fertilizer---a small dose of compost will keep it in good stead. Kiwi comes in all shapes and sizes, select the appropriate one and you should find success with this easy grower.

We are still here!!!

No in-person workshops for now, but you can view workshops on:

Instagram live at slo_mg or visit our You Tube channel

at “San Luis Obispo County UC Master Gardeners”.

Visit our website; https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/

or email us at anrmgslo@ucanr.edu

Our physical offices are closed, but you can still call or email questions:

San Luis Obispo 805-781-5939

Arroyo Grande 805-473-7190

Templeton 805-434-4105

Photo by Alissa Bright

Nasturtium

By Alissa Bright  UCCE Master Gardener

Nasturtiums

Tropaeolum majus /Tropaeolum minor

Planting Area: USDA zones 2-11

Size: Parasol leaves grow to 6” in diameter, while majus vines can sprawl up to 20'. Minor stems are more compact and bushy; ideal for pots.

Bloom Season: Spring through Fall

Exposure:  Full to partial sun

Pruning needs:  The longest trailing vines of Tropaeolum major can be pruned when leggy (6-12”) to stimulate new leaf & flower growth.

Water Needs:  Nasturtium prefer ample water and well-drained, sandy soil; though some easy-going species are drought-tolerant.

Snapshot:  Even “brown-thumb” gardeners can grow nasturtium; in fact, they often pop up as volunteers in Central Coast gardens.  Every garden bed visitor can feast on nasturtium- hummingbirds, bees, and even people!  The entire plant, from its cheerful flowers to lily-pad-like leaves to stems to seeds, is edible for humans.  Exceptionally sweet nasturtium blooms attract hummingbirds to stop and sip, thanks to a concentrate of sucrose in its nectar.  

      Nasturtium's wide, rounded, landing-pad leaves invite butterflies to lay their eggs on the undersides.  Veggie gardeners can steer pests like the white cabbage butterfly looking to lay eggs in your garden to this sacrificial scapegoat plant and save their cabbages from becoming a pest nursery by inviting nasturtium into their beds.  Most plants enjoy nasturtium as a neighbor to attract away aphids.

     Plant from seed to enjoy jewel-tone blooms in orange, red or ivory in your garden, as nasturtium doesn't transplant well.  Poor soil produces more flowers and pruning spurs on new growth.  Adventurous horticulturalists can add nasturtium blooms and leaves to their salad- just be sure to check the undersides for insect eggs first.

We are still here!!!

No in-person workshops for now, but you can view workshops on:

Instagram live at slo_mg or visit our You Tube channel

at “San Luis Obispo County UC Master Gardeners”.

Visit our website; https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/

or email us at anrmgslo@ucanr.edu

Our physical offices are closed, but you can still call or email questions:

San Luis Obispo 805-781-5939

Arroyo Grande 805-473-7190

Templeton 805-434-4105

Photo by Polly Nelson

Banksea Rose

By Polly Nelson UCCE Master Gardener

Common Name: Lady Banks Rose

Scientific Name: Rosa Banksiae   

Planting Area: Sunset zones 4-24

Size: 20 feet or more if allowed

Bloom Season: Early to late spring

Exposure: Full sun or light shade

Pruning needs: Depends on placement, at least annually

Water needs: Average; do not overwater

Snapshot:

Picture your arbor, fence or bank covered with green foliage and large clusters of yellow or white blossoms in the spring! Originally from China, this climbing rose was named after Dorothea Lady Banks, wife of botanist Sir Joseph Banks. Two varieties include “Lutea” (pictured), with small, scentless double yellow blossoms; and “Alba Plena” with white, violet-scented blossoms. Both have glossy, leathery leaves on stems with a limited number of thorns.  Many Rosa Banksiae plants bloom twice, first on last year's post-bloom growth, then on the growth of the current season, which lasts from early to late spring. Blooms attract bees and butterflies.  

Water regularly. Irrigation amounts depend on location, season and climate. One cause of yellow leaves can be overwatering (along with insufficient nitrogen or viral/fungal infestation).

Fertilize established plants once at the beginning of the growing season, and once after blooms finish, using a balanced fertilizer, NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) or 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. When first planting climbing roses, amend the soil in the planting hole by mixing in compost to increase humus and organic fertilizer to provide the needed nutrients. Choose an organic fertilizer with a NPK ratio of 2-5-2. Mix in a handful of bone meal at planting time to provide phosphorus for healthy root development.  Maintain 1-3 inches of mulch around the plant, but away from the trunk.

Prune during the year to remove dead or diseased branches. In winter, remove injured, crossed, spindly branches. Remove woody canes at the base, and trim canes that can no longer provide support. Pruning also helps to maintain the desired shape of the rose bush. Deadhead spent flowers during the bloom season to promote new growth. Fasten new (and old) growth to the trellis, wall or fence with tape or ties.

We are still here!!!

No in-person workshops for now, but you can view workshops on:

Instagram live at slo_mg or visit our You Tube channel

at “San Luis Obispo County UC Master Gardeners”.

Visit our website; https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/

or email us at anrmgslo@ucanr.edu

Our physical offices are closed, but you can still call or email questions:

San Luis Obispo 805-781-5939

Arroyo Grande 805-473-7190

Templeton 805-434-4105

Photo by Jutta Thoerner

Apricots

By Jutta  Thoerner   UCCE Master Gardener

 Prunus armeniacum

Size of Tree: 6 to 35 feet high, depending on rootstock

Bloom description and season:  Apricot blossoms have five bright white petals that can sometimes be tinged with pink.  Blooming time is in the spring.

Pruning needs: needs to be pruned in summer.

Exposure: full sun.

Water needs: needs regular watering to produce ample fruit

Apricots are member of the rose family and the origin of the apricot is disputed. Theories have its beginnings in China, Armenia or Japan. We do know it was domesticated more than 4000 years ago.  Then English and Spanish settlers brought it to North America in the 1700's.  Apricots grow best in a light, loamy soil in full sun. They produce fruit for about 25 years. Reasons why apricot trees fail to produce fruit include:

1. Blooms have been destroyed by late frost or heavy rains, preventing pollination and fruit set. Planting a mid or late blooming tree will mitigate this issue for the most part.

2. The tree did not receive enough water during bloom or fruit set. Apricots need one inch of water weekly for a successful fruit set.

3. The apricot tree is an alternate or 3 year alternate varietal for fruit bearing. Today's industry has a wide selection on yearly bearing apricot trees to choose from.

4. No fruiting wood to bear fruit on. Apricots bear fruit on spurs which need to be pruned to force new growth. If you have not pruned the spurs in four years or more, poor or no fruit set will result.

If you love apricots, consider a semi dwarf or dwarf rootstock for your yard.  By following some of the tips, selecting the perfect tree for your needs is easy.  Apricot trees don't require a lot of space and they will give you many years of gorgeous spring blooms and juicy apricots. You'll enjoy eating them, as the astronauts did on their Apollo mission to the moon.