Donating Produce 2020  

By Aliza Golan   UCCE Master Gardener

During the month of September 2020, the local community has been enjoying our donations from the last gasps of summer produce from the Kitchen Garden such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, green beans, and squash. It was also a big transition time for the Kitchen Garden, as the Harvest Team and the Kitchen Garden Team worked together to retire and rework several raised beds. We now look forward to harvesting cool weather crops in the months to come. 

The Orchard celebrated the end of summer with good yields of figs, apples and a few Asian pears. Over the next couple of months, yields of persimmons and pomegranates will round out a very productive 2020. 

We have officially surpassed the record setting 1,103 lb total from 2019, with a new whopping total of 1,152.5 lbs of produce donations through the end of September 2020! 

Pinus Attenuata

By Linda Lewis Griffith    UCCE Master Gardener 

Common Name: Knobcone Pine 

Planting Zone: Sunset 2-10, 14-21 

Size:  20-80 ft. tall, 20-25 ft. wide 

Bloom Season: non-flowering 

Exposure: Full sun 

Pruning Needs:  None needed 

Water Needs: None needed 

The knobcone pine is the most widespread of the three California closed-cone pines.  Sporadic populations are found in southwestern Oregon, through California's Klamath Ranges, Coast Ranges and Santa Lucias down to Ensenada, Baja California.  It also spreads across the Cascades, Modoc Plateau and Sierra Nevada.  Elevations range from near sea level to almost 5,500 ft. on Mount Shasta.  Knobcones frequently rely on marine layer condensation along the coast to supplement moisture during dry summer months.  In many areas, including San Luis Obispo County, they are the dominant plant in serpentine and granitic outcroppings where little else is able to survive.  Knobcone pine communities occur at the transition between chaparral, woodland and higher elevation forests. At lower elevations, they grow alongside chamise (Adenostoma fasciculatum), manzanita (Arctostaphylos ssp.) and various oaks (Quercus ssp.).  At higher elevations, they are found among assorted conifers. Trees grow rapidly, forming a dense rounded crown that becomes open and irregular as they mature. Yellow-green needles are 3-5 inches long and occur in groups of 3. Multiple trunks are encircled by tight whorls of cones that tenaciously cling to the tree and give it its name.  Layers of cones can be covered by new growth of wood.  When the tree finally burns it contains all of the seeds and cones it has produced over its lifetime. Lifespans are relatively short; while some trees survive 75-100 years, most die by 60 years. Knobcones are serotinous, meaning reproduction is completely dependent on fire. Cones are sealed with a hard resin and require extremely high temperature to open.  Once burned, they open as the ground is cooling and continue opening for at least 4 years. Small, delicate seeds are wind dispersed and can be carried well beyond the range of the fire.  Birds and squirrels also aid in the dissemination of seeds. Knobcone seeds are among the earliest to germinate.  Seedlings are drought tolerant and able to take root in poor soil.   

Irises Part 2: Lessons Learned   

By Patty Smith   UCCE Master Gardener

After documenting the pro trips for separating iris rhizomes, I trundled into the garden with my fancy new three-pronged digging fork and set in to divide. 

First lesson learned: my summer-dried clay soil laughed at the digging fork. So, out came the spade-head shovel.  

Second lesson learned: While iris will live in the worst of soils (and when I “planted” these three years ago I took full advantage of that and pretty much just placed them atop the soil…) that makes them mighty hard to dig back out. While they have multiplied beautifully, they were exceedingly hard to dig out. Before replanting them I will be amending the soil with a heavy dose of compost to make iris dividing easier next time this needs to be done.  

Next lesson learned” “shake the soil” from the roots is not a phrase people with clay soil can act upon. My mass of iris roots and rhizomes was encased in rock-hard clay. A few inches of water in the wheelbarrow, though, and a short soak, yielded rhizomes free enough of clay that they could be divided.  

Last lesson: trim the strappy leaves BEFORE digging the rhizomes out.  Yes, this is a bit harder, and may mean having to trim twice. BUT, the first clump I dug up suffered a good many leaves broken and smashed, which then had to be trimmed off shorter than ideal.  

Irises 

By Patty Smith   UCCE Master Gardener

I purchased this iris a few years ago. Wow, has it been a pleasure—providing these enormous showy blooms for several seasons. Alas, the reliable iris has one drawback—it really needs to be divided periodically. Fall is here, the plant has just withered into dormancy, so now is the time.  

Begin with a clean, sharp shovel.  Move any groundcover away from the iris' tuberous “bulb” so that you can easily see it. The correct name for this plant's propagating part is rhizome. Plunge the shovel straight down, 6 to 12 inches away from the plant the rhizome's skin so it is not damaged. Because these grow at soil level, you won't need to go very deep before being able to lift the rhizome and the root ball.  

After lifting the rhizomes, shake off any loose soil and rinse gently.  This will let you see the plant clearly and inspect the roots for damage. Trim off any dead or damaged part with a clean, sharp tool and also trim the leaves, leaving about 6”. If any rhizomes are soft, discard those.  

Now separate the individual rhizomes from one another.  Typically they are only loosely attached to each other. Let the rhizomes dry out in a cool dark place, preferably in shavings to protect them. Once they're dry, find a new sunny spot where you'd like some color, and plant the iris at soil level, with the dry leaves sticking up and the top of the rhizome exposed to sun. Water well, wait, and reap rewards in a few months!  

You can also read more about iris separating here:  

http://cesutter.ucdavis.edu/Master_Gardener_116/?blogpost=21775&blogasset=77621