Photo by Polly Nelson

Banksea Rose

By Polly Nelson UCCE Master Gardener

Common Name: Lady Banks Rose

Scientific Name: Rosa Banksiae   

Planting Area: Sunset zones 4-24

Size: 20 feet or more if allowed

Bloom Season: Early to late spring

Exposure: Full sun or light shade

Pruning needs: Depends on placement, at least annually

Water needs: Average; do not overwater

Snapshot:

Picture your arbor, fence or bank covered with green foliage and large clusters of yellow or white blossoms in the spring! Originally from China, this climbing rose was named after Dorothea Lady Banks, wife of botanist Sir Joseph Banks. Two varieties include “Lutea” (pictured), with small, scentless double yellow blossoms; and “Alba Plena” with white, violet-scented blossoms. Both have glossy, leathery leaves on stems with a limited number of thorns.  Many Rosa Banksiae plants bloom twice, first on last year's post-bloom growth, then on the growth of the current season, which lasts from early to late spring. Blooms attract bees and butterflies.  

Water regularly. Irrigation amounts depend on location, season and climate. One cause of yellow leaves can be overwatering (along with insufficient nitrogen or viral/fungal infestation).

Fertilize established plants once at the beginning of the growing season, and once after blooms finish, using a balanced fertilizer, NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) or 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. When first planting climbing roses, amend the soil in the planting hole by mixing in compost to increase humus and organic fertilizer to provide the needed nutrients. Choose an organic fertilizer with a NPK ratio of 2-5-2. Mix in a handful of bone meal at planting time to provide phosphorus for healthy root development.  Maintain 1-3 inches of mulch around the plant, but away from the trunk.

Prune during the year to remove dead or diseased branches. In winter, remove injured, crossed, spindly branches. Remove woody canes at the base, and trim canes that can no longer provide support. Pruning also helps to maintain the desired shape of the rose bush. Deadhead spent flowers during the bloom season to promote new growth. Fasten new (and old) growth to the trellis, wall or fence with tape or ties.

We are still here!!!

No in-person workshops for now, but you can view workshops on:

Instagram live at slo_mg or visit our You Tube channel

at “San Luis Obispo County UC Master Gardeners”.

Visit our website; https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/

or email us at anrmgslo@ucanr.edu

Our physical offices are closed, but you can still call or email questions:

San Luis Obispo 805-781-5939

Arroyo Grande 805-473-7190

Templeton 805-434-4105

Photo by Jutta Thoerner

Apricots

By Jutta  Thoerner   UCCE Master Gardener

 Prunus armeniacum

Size of Tree: 6 to 35 feet high, depending on rootstock

Bloom description and season:  Apricot blossoms have five bright white petals that can sometimes be tinged with pink.  Blooming time is in the spring.

Pruning needs: needs to be pruned in summer.

Exposure: full sun.

Water needs: needs regular watering to produce ample fruit

Apricots are member of the rose family and the origin of the apricot is disputed. Theories have its beginnings in China, Armenia or Japan. We do know it was domesticated more than 4000 years ago.  Then English and Spanish settlers brought it to North America in the 1700's.  Apricots grow best in a light, loamy soil in full sun. They produce fruit for about 25 years. Reasons why apricot trees fail to produce fruit include:

1. Blooms have been destroyed by late frost or heavy rains, preventing pollination and fruit set. Planting a mid or late blooming tree will mitigate this issue for the most part.

2. The tree did not receive enough water during bloom or fruit set. Apricots need one inch of water weekly for a successful fruit set.

3. The apricot tree is an alternate or 3 year alternate varietal for fruit bearing. Today's industry has a wide selection on yearly bearing apricot trees to choose from.

4. No fruiting wood to bear fruit on. Apricots bear fruit on spurs which need to be pruned to force new growth. If you have not pruned the spurs in four years or more, poor or no fruit set will result.

If you love apricots, consider a semi dwarf or dwarf rootstock for your yard.  By following some of the tips, selecting the perfect tree for your needs is easy.  Apricot trees don't require a lot of space and they will give you many years of gorgeous spring blooms and juicy apricots. You'll enjoy eating them, as the astronauts did on their Apollo mission to the moon.

Photo by Tami Reece

Making Broth

By Carol Michael, UCCE Master Food Preserver

It is cold and gloomy outside. We need something to brighten our days. What do you recommend? Nora S., Paso Robles

A favorite activity is preparing chicken bone broth. Make a stockpot or slow cooker full.  Your kitchen will fill with a delicious comforting aroma.

Containers of chicken bone broth tucked in the freezer is my secret treasure. Make as large a batch as you can safely store. It can be heated with a dash of red pepper flakes and a squeeze of lemon to sip and warm you.

It can be used to prepare soups, and stews, in place of water for rice and pastas. Use it to sauté vegetables instead of oil or butter. The broth can be used for many comforting dishes: chicken & dumplings, tortilla soup, scalloped potatoes, rice pilaf, or pastas.

Try making broth; you likely have the ingredients on hand. Keep a designated container in your freezer adding roasted bones and vegetable trimmings until you have enough for a recipe.

Adapted from Natasha's Kitchen©2019-Stovetop Method:

2 ½ lbs. of roasted* chicken bones

1 tbsp. cider vinegar or lemon juice (draws collagen and calcium from bones)

1 tsp. salt

1 onion, peeled and halved

2 celery ribs cut into thirds; leaves attached

2 carrots, peeled and halved

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 bay leaf

Filtered water

16 cup stockpot

Quart or pint size wide mouth mason jars; or other freezer safe containers

* Place bones on a lined rimmed baking sheet and roast at 400˚F for 20 minutes. Skip if using bones from a cooked chicken.

1. Place bones and accumulated pan juices into stockpot. Add 4 quarts water, vinegar, and salt. Bring to boil; reduce heat to simmer. Skim off impurities. Cover.  Simmer on low 6 hours; add vegetables.
2. Continue simmering 9 hours for total of 15 hours. Don't bring to hard boil or broth will look “foggy.”
3. Strain through fine mesh sieve into a container. Discard solids. Cool strained stock, cover and refrigerate.
4. The following day it will thicken. Remove fat from top.  Store in refrigerator 3-5 days, or transfer to freezer safe containers and freeze up to 3 months.
5. Broth expands when frozen. Leave space in containers for expansion: 1” for wide mouth jars and containers, 2” for regular mouth jars.

We are still here!!!

No in-person workshops for now, but you can

visit our website at : http://cesanluisobispo.ucanr.edu/ ,email us at slomfp@ucanr.edu, or  call our helpline at: 805-781-1429.

We also check pressure canner gauges at no cost. Contact us for more information!

Photo by Andrea Peck

Guava Trees

By Andrea Peck  UCCE Master Gardener

Guava Tree

 Psidium guajava

Planting Area: Full Sun, USDA Zones 8-11

Size: up to 20' in height

Bloom Season: Fall

Fruit Season: Fall/Winter

Exposure: Sensitive to frost/freeze.

Pruning Needs: Yearly.

Water Needs: Medium.

The guava tree is a non-assuming plant with thick, silver-green leaves and oblong fruit. Though the guava is not a showy tree, it has an amazingly delicious fruit which is rich in Vitamin C. This tree is sensitive to frost but can grow in more temperate areas of the Central Coast as long as it is located in a protected, sunny spot. Alternatively, the guava can thrive in the right greenhouse environment.

The guava grows best in well-drained soil and once established, can tolerate some drought. It is considered a 'heavy feeder.' The young guava needs ½ pound of fertilizer every other month. Decrease fertilizing to 3-4 times a year as it becomes more mature and increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 pounds. Using a 6-6-6-2 fertilizer, spread it a foot away from the trunk, up to the drip line, and rake it in. A foliar spray of copper and zinc is recommended 3 times a year (skipping winter) for the first two years to promote healthy growth.

Prune your guava tree each year in late winter or early spring. The guava fruits on new growth. A yearly pruning will promote growth and increase fruiting. During the first year, trim the tree to establish a shape, leaving one trunk and three or four lateral branches for a classic 'tree' shape. You can also leave it to grow in bush form if you like.  After the first year, trim excess growth, particularly interior branches that shade out the center of the tree---this will allow sunlight in for greater photosynthesis and promote air circulation.

When winter arrives, the quiet guava will surprise you with the most amazing fruit---you'll have to hunt for it though, this fruit tree expertly hides its treasure in silver-green camouflage.