- Author: Ann Dozier
- Editor: Noni Todd
My six-year- old lavender plants are woody and falling apart. What have I done wrong? Should I plant some other variety? Jean W. San Luis Obispo
by Ann Dozier Master Gardener
Local gardeners love lavenders; hardy sweet-smelling plants resistant to insect pests and deer. Lavender can live up to 20 years, but plants often get woody after six to eight years. Heavy soil and regular summer watering are primary reasons for this problem.
To encourage longer life, let plants dry out in summer before watering. If you have clay soil, plant on a slope and/or amend soil in the planting area. Lavenders prefer light, rocky soils and require little fertilization. Over-fertilizing is another reason plants quickly grow woody and break open. Fertilize them lightly the first year you plant them; they probably will not need further nutrients.
Regular pruning improves the looks of lavenders and prevents them from breaking apart. Start when plants are young, as it’s hard to get back to a nice rounded shape if pruning is neglected. Prune after bloom or as you cut flowers in the summer. Cut off about 1/3 of the green growth at this time and shape up the outer edges of bushes to keep them rounded. If you didn’t cut back after blooms faded, you can prune into fall (but not too late in the year in hard frost areas).Try regenerating a woody plant by pruning the remaining green down almost to the wood and hope for new growth. Dry wood on lavenders will not re-sprout, according to experts.
As for varieties to plant, choices are many. Most nurseries sell fast-growing, sturdy hybrid lavenders (Lavandin) such as Grosso and Provence– reputed to resist heat and fungus disease better than the English lavenders (Lavandula angustifola). For drying, the English lavenders which come in several named varieties, retain color well. French (Lavandula dentata) or the early-blooming, fuschia-colored Spanish (Lavandula stoechas) can be lightly cut after their first bloom to encourage summer re-bloom. Newer lavenders also come in white, pink and yellow as well as blues and purple.
- Author: Terri Sonleitner Law
- Editor: Noni Todd
There’s much to do in the September garden!
by Terri Sonleitner Law
UC Master Gardener
Q. I’m unsure what gardening activities I should be doing now. Any suggestions? Sam S., Atascadero
A. September’s a great month in the garden and there’s plenty to do. Although some days may be summertime hot, days are shortening, shadows lengthen, and fall colors begin to appear in the landscape with the arrival of the Autumnal Equinox on September 22nd.
- Fall is our best planting season! Select healthy trees and other permanent plants, considering your site, drainage, and soil requirements. Consider selecting and planting California natives and be sure they have enough water until rains begin.
- You can plant fall-blooming perennials, such as asters, chrysanthemums, daylilies, and salvia, which add fall color to the garden and will be in good supply in September.
- Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials, such as bearded iris, that produced few flowers or were smaller than usual. Share the extras with friends and neighbors!
- Mulches decompose in the warm months, so it’s a good time to add more to the garden. It’s also a good time to check your watering system to make sure it’s working properly and not wasting water.
- Fertilize trees, shrubs, groundcovers, roses, and warm-season grasses.
- If your lawn is in bad shape due to drought stress, insects, weeds or other reasons, and you want to spruce it up, September is a great time to do so.
- A light pruning of roses will reward you with another round of lovely blooms once daytime temperatures have moderated.
- There is life after basil! Plant some perennial culinary herbs such as parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme, or winter savory.
- The kitchen garden is a busy place. Continue harvesting summer crops. Many delicious and nutritious cool season vegetables can be planted now from seed or starts: beets, cabbages, carrots, kale, kolhrabi, lettuce, mesclun mixes, mustards, green onions, peas, radishes, spinach, turnips and rutabaga.
- Lastly, don’t forget to take some time to enjoy the warmth and renewal the changing seasons bring to your September garden.
- Author: Andrea Peck
- Editor: Noni Todd
Q. I am interested in growing an avocado tree. What should I be aware of before I plant?
Aedan G.
By Andrea Peck Master Gardener
A. The first step to planting anything is to make sure it is well suited to your specific climate. Your climate zone and microclimate will determine which plants will grow well in your garden. The avocado tree originated in the tropical climates of South America and may not be well suited to some cool coastal climates. If possible, purchase your tree in the spring, after the last chance of frost to give your tree a good head start.
The avocado tree requires delicate treatment during planting. Make sure the hole is as deep as the root ball and twice the diameter. Once planted, the tree ball should rest about one inch above the surrounding ground to prevent excess moisture from reaching the trunk. Irrigate your new tree immediately after planting.
Botanically, the avocado flower is unique. Each flower has a female portion which opens for a few hours on one day. On the second day the flower sheds pollen and is now acting as a male flower. Honey bees transfer pollen from male-stage flowers to female-stage flowers. Pollination activities and fruit set are improved when more than one tree is planted within close proximity.
Pollination is highly dependent on temperature. Temperatures around 70⁰F are ideal for flowering. Colder temperatures, even in the 60⁰F range, significantly lower fruit set while sudden hot spells may cause fruit drop.
The avocado’s smooth, creamy and subtle taste continues to rise in popularity as a culinary treat. The avocado packs a nutritional wallop as well. It is known for its cholesterol-fighting monounsaturated fats and its high vitamin and mineral content.
For more information on planting and maintaining avocados, visit The University of California’s Backyard California Orchard - http://ucanr.org/sites/home_orchard/
Join the UCCE Master Gardeners at the “Lawns to Food” Demonstration Garden at Centennial Park, 600 Nickerson Drive, Paso Robles on Saturday, August 25, 10:00 am to 12:00 for a Summer Pruning Workshop. This is event is free and methods to prune fruit bearing trees, shrubs, and vines will be demonstrated.
- Author: Jim Borland, Master Gardener
We have an upcoming " Worm Composting Made Easy" Workshop on Saturday, September 8th 10 am - noon.. Register here
Worm composting is slow, but it's great for your plants~ It's worth it!
Vermiculture by Jim Borland, Master Gardener
Q – I've heard it's possible to get good compost from worm manure.
Is this true?
Curtis Reinhardt, Shell Beach
A – Yes, you can let worms eat your kitchen scraps and convert it into fertilizer. It's called vermiculture which is a fancy name for worm composting. You need only a few things to get started: a worm bin, newspaper bedding, kitchen scraps and, of course, your little red wigglers.
The worm bin is an aerated container and will be lodging for your worm farm. It may be made from a covered plastic tub, Styrofoam, metal, wood, or you can purchase a commercial worm bin. Your bin will need holes in it for air circulation as well as holes along the bottom to drain excess moisture.
The composting worms most often used are Eisenia foetida, commonly known as red wigglers, and can be purchased at garden centers, bait shops or from suppliers on the Internet. This type of worm has adapted to living in decaying organic material, and they thrive in rotting vegetation.
You can create bedding for your bin with shredded paper such as non-glossy newspaper, office paper or cardboard. Prepare your worm bedding by wetting the paper and wringing it out until it is like a damp sponge. Fluff up the paper and bury some kitchen scraps in the worm bin. Avoid food that contains yeast, onions, meats, oils, citrus or dairy.
The bin may be placed outdoors in a protected place but keeping it indoors works fine in harsh climates. To keep your worms happy you need to think about temperature, moisture, and ventilation. Add fresh kitchen scraps to the bin about twice a week, covering the newly deposited waste with an inch or two of bedding.
Bacteria and fungi exist in the worm bin and help break the food down. The end result will be vermicompost (worm castings), an excellent nutrient-rich food for growing healthy plants. Worm compost is ready to use when it is dark in color and all the vegetation has been digested. You will then harvest your worms and prepare some new bedding for another cycle. Use your vermicompost to fertilize house plants or those in your garden. An for more information, there is a book called "Worms Eat My Garbage" by Mary Appelhoff. Calrecycle offers information online at: http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/worms/
Find more information about Worm Composting and Purchasing a Wriggly Wranch Worm Bin
/span>Worm composting flyer May 2012
- Author: Tami Reece
- Editor: Noni Todd
Tomato Extravaganza and Plant Sale
by Tami Reece Master Gardener
On Saturday August 18, 2012, 10:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m., the UC Master Gardeners of San Luis Obispo County, will be having their 6thAnnual Tomato Extravaganza and Plant Sale. It will be held at the Garden of the Seven Sisters, 2156 Sierra Way in San Luis Obispo near the intersection of Johnson Ave & Bishop Street. At 10:00, the event kicks off with Chef Joe Thomas, of Thomas Hill Organics, giving a very popular Tomato Cooking Demonstration. At 11:00, the California Rare Fruit Growers will be teaching how to “Graft a Tomato”. The presentations will end at 12:00 with “Success with Succulents”. In addition, the UC Master Gardeners will have all their educational gardening plots available for view and the lead gardeners of those plots will be available for questions. In the back part of the garden will be the UC Master Gardeners massive plant sale. Edible plants such as basil, herbs, berries and fruit trees will be available for purchase as well as plenty of Mediterranean climate ornamental plants. There will be Master Gardeners on hand to answer any plant questions you may have and to make sure you buy the right plant for your area of San Luis Obispo County. The high light of the Tomato Extravaganza will be the “Tomato and Basil Tasting” in the auditorium. We will have booths if you have questions about “Ocean Friendly Gardening” or “Chickens in Your Garden”. The California Rare Fruit Growers will be selling several varieties of grafted trees. There will be activities for the kids, special children’s gardening plots to see and a “Make a Tomato Head” project. If you have questions on what tomato grows best in your micro-climate, what plants grow best in your part of the county, would like to hear quality presentations, or just want to walk in one of the most beautiful gardens in San Luis Obispo County, please join the UC Master Gardeners of San Luis Obispo County on Saturday August 18.
Click on Workshops & Event Information to the left for a printable flyer with schedule and address. See you in the garden!
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