Psyllid Adult FeedingThe pest can destroy citrus trees
The Asian citrus psyllid remains a serious and dangerous pest of all types of citrus, says Joe Deviney, Santa Clara County Agricultural Commissioner.
The tiny insect can carry the disease huanglongbing, also known as citrus greening. There is no cure for the disease; infected trees will produce bitter, misshapen fruit until the tree dies in as little as five years.
While the pest has been seen in Santa Clara County and parts of Alameda County, huanglongbing disease, which has been found in only a few trees in the state, has not yet been seen here. The only way to prevent huanglongbing is to guard against the psyllid.
The psyllid is prevalent in Mexico and across parts of the Southern United States. In Florida, the pest was first detected in 1998, and citrus greening was discovered there just seven years later. Both the pest and the disease are now in all of Florida's citrus producing areas and have resulted in the loss of trees, produce, more than 6,000 jobs and $3.6 billion in economic activity.
Psyllids, also known as jumping plant lice, are from the Psyllidae family and have been around for a long time. Psyllid fossils have been found from the Permian period, more than 250 million years ago.
The psyllids generally feed on one species of plant, or closely related plants. The pest is a tiny brownish winged insect, about the size of an aphid. They not only feed on all varieties of citrus — orange, grapefruit, lemon, lime, kumquat and mandarin — but also attack Indian curry leaf, Chinese box orange, wampeii, orange jasmine and others.
The pest is small, but easily identifiable thanks to its distinctive feeding habit. It eats with its body at a 45 degree angle with its head down and rear in the air. No other citrus pest feeds in this position. It also feeds on new leaf growth, causing young leaves to twist and curl, and prevents healthy new shoots from forming.
The insect can spread huanglongbing by feeding on a diseased tree and then spreading the disease to other, healthy trees. Grafting using infected budwood can also spread the disease.
To check for infestations, look for oblong, yellow orange eggs that are tucked inside new growth. Nymphs produce unique waxy, curly tubes with bulbs at the end. Adults are about 1/8-inch long and have a pointed front end with red eyes and short antennae. They can have greenish, yellow or orange abdomens, depending on what they have been feeding on.
The Bay Area's first report was in San Jose in 2014; the most recent sighting was last month. Approximately 200 square miles of Santa Clara and Alameda counties fall in an Asian citrus psyllid quarantine zone.
Although you can move fruit in and out of the quarantine zone, it must be free of all leaf and stem material. Be sure not to move any plant material outside of your zone, and if you are planting new plants or trees, make sure they are disease free by buying them from a reputable nursery.
Check the quarantine boundary lines and if you think you have seen the pest or are experiencing citrus greening symptoms on your trees, call the California Department of Food and Agriculture's Pest Hotline at 1-800-491-1899.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the November 9 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
There are some great resources to help you do your homework when planning additions to your garden.
This is an ideal time to add California native plants. The California Native Plant Society has a resource, Calscape, that lists plants that are native specifically to your area. One of my favorites for (zip code) 95037 is Arctostaphylos Dr. Hurd. I love its reddish, crooked branches. At about 15' tall, in sun or shade, it's easy to fit into many gardens. Calscape also lists some annual wildflowers native to Morgan Hill. How about Baby Blue Eyes and Smooth Tidy Tips?
Santa Clara County Master Gardeners have a Waterwise Plant list that gives you great tips about which plants thrive in our area. You can choose based on plant type, and water and sun/shade requirements. They've done the testing for you, and the practical notes about growing conditions and watering are really helpful.
I'm renovating a garden with old oaks and here's what's on my list, that could easily be on your list, even if you don't have oaks. These are all typically easy to find in your local nursery. If you don't see them, they can order for you.
Arctostaphylos Howard McMinn – Howard McMinn manzanita is a native, medium sized (6' x 10') shrub that can be kept smaller by pruning. It is both drought and garden tolerant. I think it's quietly elegant and a graceful addition to any garden. It plays well with lots of other plants.
Correa Dusky Bells and Ivory Bells – I love Australian fuchsias and use them a lot. Dusky Bells is smaller (1' x 3'), with reddish pink flowers. I'm getting attached to Ivory Bells with its creamy white flowers and grey green, felt-like leaves. In the oak garden, it's planted next to A. Howard McMinn and underplanted with Stachys Helen von Stein, with its furry grey leaves, and they look great together.
This same planting bed under the oak includes Rubus pentalobus, a quiet, low dark green carpet, and iris Canyon Snow. There are lots of colors (purple, ochre, pale yellow, bronze) to choose from with our native iris, but I keep going back to the pure white charm of Canyon Snow.
Another area of this garden, includes drifts of Arctostaphylos Carmel Sur. Carmel Sur manzanita is my current favorite, low growing (1' x 4-6') native manzanita. It has glossy green leaves and grows relatively quickly. I'm also adding in Carpenteria californica Elizabeth as part of a mixed border.
When you're looking for inspiration and advice about great plants for your garden, make sure you also check out the UC Davis Arboretum All Stars plants list.
The horticultural staff of the UC Davis Arboretum have identified 100 tough, reliable plants that have been tested in the Arboretum, are easy to grow, don't need a lot of water, have few problems with pests or diseases, and have outstanding qualities in the garden.
Use your local Master Gardeners for advice to grow by! Call our hotline Monday through Friday, 9:30-12:30 at 408-283-3105.
by UC Master Gardener Janet Enright
This article first appeared in the September 21 issue of the Morgan Hill Times.
You might think that this story, which by now you've noticed is about a bunch of lifeless, boring spheres, is getting overly dramatic. Believe me, I'm usually a very rational gardener; the kind who chooses the right plant for the right place, in season and after plenty of thought. You know the kind. But the bulbs always get me, and here's why: When planted in the right mix and at the right time, they are a solid, upfront investment in color and beauty for the rest of the year. Bulbs are easy and affordable and, if they aren't already, should be a permanent part of your annual garden plan. Keep these tips in mind and you can't go wrong:
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Plant bulbs in groups, just as you would (and should) plant other garden plants. A basic rule of thumb for garden design is to plant in odd numbers for a more natural look. Resist the urge to be methodical about spacing; in nature plants grow where the conditions are right and there is no grid-lined paper involved.
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Visit some of the gorgeous examples of natural landscapes we have access to in our area year round. No time to hike? Filoli Gardens will wow you with spectacular designs that include thousands of bulbs.
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Follow the directions included with the bulbs regarding planting depth and spacing, timing and sunlight and irrigation requirements.
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When the foliage of your bulbs begins to die back you'll want to have some larger, perennial plant companions to fill the gaps that bulbs leave when they go dormant. Examples include: Heuchera (alum root), Nepeta (catmint), and Hemerocallis (daylily.)
Ready to give in to the call of bulbs this Fall? Here's a shopping list for some that do well in our region: Snowdrops (galanthus), crocus (crocus sativus if you want to wow your friends by growing your own saffron), grape hyacinth (muscari), and daffodil (narcissus). Bonus points if you plan ahead and make the extra effort to plant these California native beauties: Meadow onion (allium unifolium), Brodiaea californica, Fritillarias, and Trilliums.
by UC Master Gardener Cayce Hill
This article first appeared in the September 28 issue of the Morgan Hill Life.
But what if late summer – and then early fall – happen to slip right by? And there you are with the first week of November staring you in the face. Too late to plant most of the delicious veggies I've listed above, my friend. But no worries, you can still plant garlic! Placed an inch or so beneath the soil, 6 inches from each other, in rows 12-16 inches apart, each clove will wait patiently underground until temperatures are just cool enough to trigger germination. Water your garlic enough to keep the soil moist until you see slender green leaves poking up to remind you that, yes, there is in fact something planted in that bed.
If you plant garlic now, it will be ready to harvest by early summer. Watch for the green tops to turn yellow, which is a good indicator to stop watering them. Allow them to dry out for a week or two in the ground and then lift the bulbs carefully out of the ground. Avoid nicking them as damaged garlic doesn't store well. Find a warm, dry place to hang your garlic for 2-3 weeks, then trim back the roots and top growth. Once the skin of the garlic bulbs feels papery, then it's time to store them in a cool (not too cold or it will sprout), well-ventilated spot. I'm usually able to grow and store enough of garlic to supply my allium-infatuated household for most of the year. In just 60 square feet. And I always set aside a few heads for re-planting in fall.
There are a number of online vendors who sell high quality, organically produced seed garlic. It's usually best to order it several months before planting time, so at this point you may find that their selection is pretty limited. However, even if UPS isn't delivering garlic to your doorstep (I forgot to order mine on time this year) local nurseries and feed stores usually have heads of garlic for sale to save the day. If you've never experienced the juicy, spicy cloves of fresh garlic that snap (not bend) between your fingers, then now is your chance. Go plant some!
by UC Master Gardener Cayce Hill
This article first appeared in the October 12 issue of the Morgan Hill Life.
Garden Design
A few sheets of paper and a garden book or two can help you create a year-round garden design. Begin by drawing a rough draft of an area. Next, pencil in existing perennial plants, structures, lawns, and walkways. Everything else is fair game. Color code the garden design to include sun and wind exposure, access to water, mature plant height, and color to create a workable garden design. This will also help select the best plants for each spot. Also, water use can be significantly reduced by planting varieties with similar water needs together. Put taller plants against a fence, medium-height plants in front of those, and then shorter plants closest to walkways. This makes full use of available soil without blocking anyone's view.
Garden books, online resources, and your local Master Gardeners can help you select plants that will provide flowers, food, and greenery for each season. As one season's plants wind down, the next season will be coming in, providing year-round food and color. Containers, vertical gardens, and raised beds offer extra growing space and extend the growing season.
Edibles and Ornamentals
Morgan Hill weather makes it possible to grow edible and ornamental plants year-round. Cool season greens and cruciferous vegetables prefer our winter and spring. Potato plants offer greenery in the landscape from spring to summer, and potatoes in the fall. Perennial edibles, such as asparagus, fruit trees, bramble fruits, grapes, kiwi, and rhubarb are excellent anchor points in a landscape. Ornamental plants can provide many different shades of green, along with other colors.
Planting it Forward — For Others
In honor of Lily Hardy Hammond's 1916 book, In the Garden of Delight planting it forward also means adding plants that can be gifted to others. Succulents are durable in drought-prone Morgan Hill and they nearly propagate themselves. Cosmos and marigolds go to seed easily. Those and other seeds can be collected and planted as gifts to family and neighbors. They also make welcome gifts to individuals in hospitals and retirement homes. Melon and squash seeds can be started in small pots and gifted to neighbors and local charities.
Learn when to plant edibles for year-round food for your family in Morgan Hill. For more information and classes, check our events page or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
This article first appeared in the August 17 issue of the Morgan Hill Life.
