Garlic, a member of the Allium — onion — family, is easy to grow and takes up very little space in the garden.
There are more than 600 varieties of garlic grown, and although China produces most of the world's garlic, California produces more than any state in the nation.
Garlic is believed to prevent cardiovascular problems, reduce cholesterol and lower blood pressure, and has been used to treat asthma, diabetes, atherosclerosis and a host of other ailments.
Santa Clara Master Gardener Sue Zaslaw, an expert on the stinking rose, says homegrown garlic is more nutritious and much more flavorful than supermarket garlic. By growing your own, you can choose the varieties based on size, shape and, of course, taste.
Sue inspired me so much that I planted seven varieties last fall. I was completely surprised by how different each tasted and the assortment of cloves' sizes.
Most garlic is either hardneck, with a hard, woody center stalk, or softneck, which lacks a central stalk. Hardnecks tend to have fewer cloves — 4 to 12 — and have more flavor. They grow well in cooler climates, but don't store as long as softnecks. They also produce flowering tops, called scapes, that are delicious when cooked.
Softnecks can produce up to 30 cloves and have a milder taste. The stalks can be braided for hanging storage. If you have both, use your hardnecks first as they will not last as long as the softnecks.
The best time for planting garlic is now through the end of November. Break the bulbs into individual cloves just before planting. Remove the outer papery wrapping, but be sure to leave the covering on the individual cloves.
Plant pointed side up, 2 inches deep in well-draining, well-amended soil. Space cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows that are 10 to 12 inches apart. Fertilize once after planting and once again in the spring when the weather warms up.
Make sure your soil or planting medium is damp before planting. Garlic likes water, but not too much or it will rot. If we have winter rains, you won't need to provide supplemental water, but if we have a dry winter, water when the soil dries out.
Harvest in June or July when the tops begin to turn yellow or brown and are starting to fall over. Carefully lift the bulbs out of the soil using a spade or garden fork, and let them cure in an airy, shady spot for a couple of weeks before using.
Once dry, brush off the excess soil and trim off the roots and leaves. Braid softnecks together and hang them in a cool, dry location. For hardnecks, or if you don't want to braid softnecks, cut off the roots and tops, and store them loosely in wire baskets, mesh bags, or on a slotted shelf. They need good air circulation to prevent rotting. With proper storage, your garlic will keep for about a year.
You should harvest up to 10 times the amount of garlic that you planted. Save some of the biggest and best bulbs for next year's planting.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the October 16 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
No, wait, I didn't mean it like that. Well, yes it's true that I'm not a big fan of complaining. But I'm all about being resourceful. So your patio isn't big enough. Or maybe you just overplanted your spacious veggie beds. And just before snap pea season! Either way, there's still hope. Beyond saving space, growing veggies vertically has many advantages. In addition to using less square footage, plants grown vertically benefit from much better air circulation which can result in fewer pests and less disease.
I saw you look over at your big blank fence. Nothing going on there. You're thinking about it, aren't you? With sturdy 8- or 10-gauge wire and some eye hooks, you can get anything from grapes to blackberries to transform that otherwise strictly utilitarian space. Pick a wire size that is strong but flexible enough for your own hand strength. Feeling like putting down roots? That big strong arbor over your back deck looks pretty bare.
If wrangling with rolls of wire is not your thing, you can try hog panels. Also known as cattle panels or feedlot panels. No matter what you call them, don't let the uninspiring terms dissuade you. Attach a few of these 5' x 7' wire sections to your fence and watch the (insert skyward climbing plant here) take off! If properly secured, these panels will provide plenty of support for just about any plant. Or perhaps you're not looking for a permanent installation. In that case, a roll of garden twine will come in handy. Lightly tap in a few nails at the top and bottom of the fence, spaced six to twelve inches apart, then run regular old garden twine up and down between the two rows of nails. Beans, peas and cucumbers will grow skyward for easy harvesting.
If you garden in containers, there is no shortage of compact trellis options that will fit perfectly inside a pot. From fancy wrought iron to practical, inexpensive wooden lattice, your local nursery will have something for all your vertically-growing veggies. Or you can go minimalist with a few bamboo stakes and some twine.
From lightweight beans and peas to the heavyweight class (sorry, the Olympics are on after all) --wisteria, grapes, kiwi and climbing roses—growing plants vertically is a sure way to add height, color and even privacy to your garden.
So no more whining about your lack of space. Grow up already!
by UC Master Gardener Cayce Hill
This article first appeared in the August 16 issue of the Morgan Hill Times.
The answer is mixed. Although we made great inroads into saving water we need to continue conserving.
Our rain-year runs from July 1 to June 30, and fortunately, we got 96 percent of the annual average. The numbers were so good that this spring the State Water Resources Control Board updated its emergency regulations, allowing water retailers throughout the state to set their own restrictions based on local conditions and requirements beginning in June.
Many water districts in the Bay Area chose to ease restrictions or drop them altogether. Santa Clara Valley Water District, for example, reduced its restrictions to 20 percent from 30 percent, while Fremont, Newark and Union City dropped their reductions all together.
Some worried that the savings we saw under the mandatory restrictions would evaporate when residents began relying on their best judgment on how much and how often they water their landscapes; however, recent numbers show that we are continuing to conserve.
In June, compared to the same month last year, San Jose Water Company cut water use by 27.8 percent, East Bay Municipal Utility District by 18.1 percent, Santa Cruz by 20.9 percent, Alameda County Water District by 28.7 percent and Palo Alto by 17.9 percent.
The majority of our water -- 55 percent -- comes primarily from snow and rainfall in the Sierra Nevada. Another 40 percent is from natural groundwater and area reservoirs. The remaining 5 percent is recycled water -- purified waste water. With or without restrictions, we must continue to work on reducing water use, and capturing and reusing water for irrigation, industry and agriculture.
"Our main message to the public right now is 'Thank you' for the tremendous response to the drought and the savings that have been achieved over the last year," says Jerry De La Piedra, unit manager for the Santa Clara Valley Water District. "However, one average year doesn't erase four years of historic drought. We don't know what next year will bring, so we're asking everyone to continue to use water as efficiently as possible."
Fall is a great time to rethink and replant your lawn, renew your garden, or make major water-saving changes to your landscape. By planting new eco-friendly sod or native and Mediterranean plants, you will not only significantly cut back on your water use, you will be providing necessary food and shelter to help save our endangered birds, bugs and bees.
Try replacing your lawn with a gorgeous array of plants and shrubs that produce flowers and create interest all year long.
If you just can't bear to completely lose the lawn, try planting a smaller section of one of the many varieties of Delta Blue Grass California native sods. They roll out just like regular sod but require 50 percent less water. They also need to be mowed way less often, resulting in environmental savings well beyond water.
Look for city and county rebate programs that actually pay you to replace your water-guzzling lawns and replace older, inefficient irrigation controllers and sprinkler equipment.
You truly can go greener without the expansive, traditional lawn.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the August 21 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
Take a look at your landscape. It looks peaceful and serene, doesn't it? The truth is, it's a battlefield. Each plant is fighting its neighbor for food, water and sunlight. Weeds, in particular, are survivors. Unlike many garden and landscape plants, weeds often thrive in any soil, with minimal water and limited food. They grow fast, shading out desirable plants, stealing water and nutrients as they grow. They tend to go to seed faster than everything else. Generally, weeds take away from the overall appearance and performance of a landscape.
So, what are weeds? Very often, weeds are the plants that survive after we try to kill them. They seem to thrive everywhere and they provide no benefit in the form of food or beauty. They can also create fire hazards that threaten life and property.
Sustainable Weed Control
Many people use herbicides to rid their yard of weeds because it is fast and easy. This is a short term view. Regularly applying herbicides to the same area can develop resistant varieties. This means the next weed generation cannot be killed with the same herbicide. Sooner or later, you will run out of herbicides to choose from. Herbicides can also threaten your landscape and garden plants through run-off and wind distribution. If chemical herbicides are used to eliminate weeds, it is extremely important that the correct herbicide is used, and that package directions are followed exactly.
Most weeds can be controlled by hand weeding, good garden design, mulching, and keeping garden plants healthy enough to defend themselves. A 4” layer of mulch can significantly reduce the number of weeds. Mulch also stabilizes soil temperature and reduces evaporation of irrigation water.
Good garden design incorporates proper site preparation for each plant, choosing plants suited to the Morgan Hill climate, and installing "smart" irrigation. In areas without plantings, porous ground covers, such as permeable pavers, can allow the soil below to breath and receive rain water. These practices work together to reduce weeds and to conserve water.
Smart Irrigation
Watering a garden or landscape is necessary to keep it healthy. Smart irrigation means improving watering efficiency and distribution to ensure the water goes where it is needed and not to the weeds. Drip irrigation, “smart” irrigation controllers and rotor heads, and soaker hoses can significantly reduce water waste. Plants that use a lot of water during the summer, such as roses, can be watered with plastic jugs buried in the ground. Simply cut the bottom off a 1-liter plastic bottle. Dig a hole a little deeper than the bottle and fill the bottom 1-2” of the hole with gravel or rocks. Place the bottle so that only the small opening on top is above the soil line. When it is time to water, use a hose to fill the bottle. This prevents watering weeds and it gets the water to the root system, where it will provide the most benefit.
If a system is already in place, be sure to check for leaks. A leaky sprinkler system can drown precious plants, help weeds to thrive, and can even kill sections of soil. Putting water where it will do the most good, in a way that reduces evaporation and run-off, will ensure that Morgan Hill gardens will have the water they need.
You can learn more about weed management from UC IPM. You can also contact your UCCE Master Gardener Hotline by calling 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday or submit questions online.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
This article first appeared in the July 26 issue of the Morgan Hill Times.
Do you have an area in your yard where you just can't get anything to grow? Have you struggled repeatedly with a prized plant or tree that just won't thrive? If you know what type of soil you have and are watering properly, it may be time to dig a little deeper to find out what's going on.
Check your soil texture. It dictates the way your soil drains and the amount of nutrients available to your plants. Providing the appropriate amount of water across the entire bed and at the right time also is of utmost importance.
Soil compaction is the next thing to look for. When soil is compacted, the air pockets are compressed, making it harder for roots to expand and grow and therefore harder for the plant to take up water and nutrients. Soil becomes compacted by foot traffic, use of heavy machinery, working the soil in overly wet conditions or when proper amendments — organic matter — haven't been added.
To improve your soil, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost once or twice a year.
Aerating, especially in lawn areas, also can be helpful.
Soil pH is another important factor; it determines how acidic or alkaline the soil is, which affects plant growth, soil bacteria, availability of essential nutrients and soil structure as well.
Acidic soil has a low pH, and extremely low levels can cause a plant to become stunted or die. Plants that thrive in acidic soil include blueberries, azaleas, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, gardenias, camellias, crepe myrtles and pine trees. Adding soil sulfur, peat moss or iron sulfate will decrease the pH level.
Alkaline soil is high in pH and is generally deficient in nitrogen and other important minerals. A high-alkaline soil has higher levels of sodium that may be toxic to plants. Plants that grow in alkaline soil include clematis, heuchera, delphinium and dianthus.
If your plants have pale green or yellowing leaves, that may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Plants may be stunted or have much smaller leaves than normal. To increase nitrogen, add good-quality compost; grow cover crops, such as fava beans, borage and vetch, in the offseason; or add coffee grounds to the soil.
The amount of soil organic matter — decomposed plant and animal residues -- really does matter. It has been called the most complex and least understood component of soils. High levels of soil organic matter improve water and nutrient retention; help fend off compaction and erosion; balance pH levels; and even bind harmful pesticides and trace elements, keeping them from polluting our watersheds.
To increase soil organic matter, apply compost and mulch, reduce tillage, leave grass clippings on the lawn and rotate crops in your garden.
Earthworms are an excellent and essential indicator of healthy soil. They create burrows in the soil, allowing water to move through the soil and roots to more easily expand and grow. Dig out about 6 inches of soil and count the number of worms you find. Three to five is a good indication of a healthy soil. If you don't see any, your soil is lacking in organic matter.
By UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the July 20 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
