- Author: Trisha E Rose
Need to pull out my juicer, here they come and come, those sweet and juicy Washington Naval Oranges, Citrus sinensis 'Washington'. I have a mature tree in a raised bed alongside my backyard fence line. My tree is at least 20 feet tall and at least as wide. This tree grows in zones 9 and 10 so it is well suited to our Solano County climates. The bounty of oranges has been unfailing every year to share with friends and family. A few weeks before Christmas the fruit is ready to enjoy and it only gets sweeter as we get into January and February.
This tree is so easy to care for and has done very well through our drought years. As an evergreen tree, it keeps its glossy green leaves year round, sometimes I use them in floral arrangements. My tree has a well established root system so only occasional water is needed during those rare weeks of high temperatures. It sits on an elevation so the drainage is very good, I've read that poor drainage can be a problem for these trees, so keep that in mind if you choose to add one to your garden. Mine is probably around 25 years old now, part of the original landscape plan. It receives citrus fertilizer in spring and fall, and fortunately I haven't had any problems with zinc deficiency or chlorosis.
Although I do really enjoy the fruit, later when the blossoms develop the fragrance is truly heavenly. I grew up in Southern California nearby large orange groves. Many families would drive around the orchards as a weekend outing just to enjoy the perfume from the orange blossoms, a much simpler non-electronic time.
- Author: Sharon L. Rico
What is a frost? 32 degrees or lower; a hard freeze is 28 degrees or lower, when cold air is blown in from somewhere else (like the Artic). Fruit such as oranges and lemons can freeze and dry out, making the fruit inedible.
Keep plants in ground and in containers well-watered. Moist soil holds more heat than dry soil and keeps the humidity level higher helping protect against frost burn (moisture being pulled from foliage).
Wrap trunks of tender and young trees (especially citrus) for frost protection. Cover tropical plants, succulents and young citrus plants and tender perennials with frost cloth, old sheets or large cardboard boxes. Cover before sunset to help retain any ground heat. Covering should go all the way to the ground and held away from contact with the plant. Mature, established trees will usually survive the freeze.
You can string incandescent holiday lights (NOT LED LIGHTS), through trees and under coverings for extra warmth. Old Christmas lights work well and can be found in thrift shops.
Place frost sensitive plants in containers so they can be moved to shelter or plant near SOUTH or WEST facing walls for reflective warmth. Small portable plastic covered greenhouses can be purchased for little cost and will hold a multitude of smaller containers. This is how I protect my succulent collection and Staghorn fern.
Using anti-transpirant spray available at most garden centers is another way to save your plants. This non-toxic polymer spray works on most plants except those with hairy leaves. It forms a thin film that allows plants to breathe but reduces water loss. This spray protects plants from wind, frost, and heat. Also, helps with transplant shock.
Freeze damage can be anything from fruit & leaf damage to the complete death of plants. Don't rush to prune plants with frost damage. Be patient, the plants may recover. Check for green growth as late as May or June.
Companion planting like Lantana and Ceanothus (California Lilac) may save your Lantana. Bougainvillea will survive in containers if sheltered. If using frost covers at night, remove during the day and replace at night. Wrap frost cloth around hanging plants too large to move, using clothes pins to secure edges. The longer the frost, the more damage caused to your plants. Be diligent to protect your garden investments.
- Author: Jenni Dodini
Work has been a much more constant presence in my life lately, so when I finally had a chance to get out in my yard, I was really surprised to find my Narcissus already blooming. They usually don't open until January. After my amaryllis blooming again in the fall last year, I was really wondering about global shifts from earthquakes and global warming. Instead, I went and researched Narcissus in a couple of sites on-line.
Most of what I found was the common knowledge stuff: Usual bloom period is December through March, but commonly forced to bloom early in December and used as gifts. Indeed, my original plants went into the ground years ago after the blooms died back. This particular clump came from a replanting when I dug up the originals and separated them maybe 4 years ago. According to the literature, the bulbs only need to be divided every 5 to 10 years. These get pretty full sun after the walnut trees drop their leaves and partial sun during the warmer months. The soil is rich and drains well. (Seems like I picked a good spot way back when I really didn't know to check things out before planting. :-) Clumps of bulbs are best divided in late summer. I honestly don't remember when I dug them up and divided them, but imagine that it was sometime in the summer after the foliage died back. The literature also says that they like to be deadheaded so that the plant energy is used to feed the bulb for the next season's bloom.
Then, the literature went into the history and mythology of the plant. It was first described by Linnaeus in 1753, but dates way back. It originally came from the Iberian peninsula and southwest Europe. The name comes from the Greek word for narcotic. The name is also thought to come from the Greek myth about Narcissus, the beautiful son of the river God, who fell in love with his own reflection in the water. In his mesmerized state, he fell into the river and drowned. The next year the beautiful flowers grew at the river's edge. This jives with the folklore and special meanings associated with the gifting of this plant, which are, rebirth and renewal, future prosperity and wealth in Chinese culture, good luck and happiness, and also clarity and inspiration.
Then lastly, (and I did not research this as yet) one of the chemical compounds in the plant, galantamine, is being researched for use in the treatment of Alzheimer's! This is interesting since the alkaloids that the plant produces for self protection can be poisonous if ingested. These alkaloids are found in all parts of the plant. (I will look into this when I am really awake as medical research literature is horrendously boring!)
The picture below was taken on Nov. 27th, a good 6 weeks earlier than the usual time that I see them in my yard. Mine are all Paperwhite, or Narcissus papyraceous. I do have other varieties in my yard, the tazetta variety that is yellow and orange and usually blooms with the daffodils. There are tips of all the rest of them popping out of the ground already, so I wonder if they will bloom early as well.
- Author: Kathy Low
Earlier this month I stopped by a retail chain department store to purchase some poinsettias. Displayed next to the poinsettias were some attractive 3 ½ foot Norfolk Island Pine trees (Araucana heterophylla) decorated with red bows being sold for $15. Seeming like a good deal, I impulsively bought one.
The tree is native to Norfolk Island in Australia. Captain Cook discovered the island on his second ship voyage to the South Pacific. When he saw the Norfolk Island Pines he thought they would be good for making ship masts and yards. But they latter proved unsuitable for that purpose.
On Norfolk Island the tree can grow to over 200 feet tall. However, according to the San Francisco Botanic Garden website, it grows to a mere 100 feet in the Bay Area. Technically it's not a true pine tree, since it is not in the genus Pinus, although they resemble pine trees in appearance. Not as hardy as true pine trees, it is winter hardy down to USDA zone 9.
They are frequently grown as houseplants, or indoor Christmas trees. If grown as a houseplant, it grows best when it receives several hours of sunlight each day and light afternoon shade. It tolerates most well drained soils. Biweekly or weekly application of a liquid balanced fertilizer is often recommended during the spring.
- Author: Lanie Keystone
With the holidays just around the corner, you might be looking for that perfect gift for your favorite gardener or history buff. I can't think of any book that fits the bill more perfectly than A Rich Spot of Earth: Thomas Jefferson's Revolutionary Garden at Monticello, by Peter Hatch, Yale University Press, 2012. Since 1977, Mr. Hatch has been responsible for painstakingly restoring Jefferson's unique 2,400 acre vegetable garden, orchard and grounds. Today the garden is made up of the same symphony of plants that Jefferson so passionately cultivated in the early nineteenth century.
The book is filled with more than two hundred full-color, sumptuous illustrations and photographs. One of the remarkable qualities of the volume is that it is the first book devoted to all aspects of the Monticello vegetable garden. The author takes us on a tour starting with the asparagus and artichokes first planted in 1770 and guides us through the horticultural experiments of Jefferson's retirement years—1809-1826.
The book's topics are wide ranging and include such things as labor in the garden, garden pests of the time, and seed saving practices. We also become privy to Jefferson's favorite vegetables and the hundreds of varieties that he grew. Hatch lets us in on the gardening traditions that he adapted from the many countries that he visited or read about as well as the half-Virginian—half-French cuisine the former President developed and served at Monticello. As an extra bonus, there is an inspiring Forward by Alice Waters.
The book can be ordered on-line from the “usual suspects” or, you can go on-line and check out the wonderful and tempting gift shop at Monticello and place your order there. It's such a “delicious” book that it might be difficult to turn loose of it and give away!