In Santa Clara County, shallots can be planted from fall into spring. Just a few varieties are commonly grown in our area, all descended from French or Dutch shallots. Some require 110 to 120 days from planting to harvest, but quick ones like Dutch Red Shallots can be grown in about 90 days. So unlike garlic, which is planted in the fall for June harvest, it’s possible to plant quick shallots in two or even three 90-day cycles within the same year.
Cultural Tips for Growing Onions and Garlic, UC IPM
Soil preparation
- Shallots tolerate a wide variety of soils, but do best in loose, loamy soil with high organic matter (i.e. compost) that provides good drainage. Boggy or wet soil can cause bulbs to rot or develop poorly.
- If it hasn't rained yet, water the bed a few days before planting so that the soil is damp.
Planting
- Select a sunny spot that gets at least 8 hours of direct sun.
- If the shallots are in clusters, carefully separate them. Do not plant any bulb that appears diseased or damaged.
- Plant bulbs 5 to 6 inches apart in rows 10 to 12 inches apart. Push the bulb into the soil with the root end down until the soil just covers it.
- Shallots need room to develop into a cluster, so don't crowd them.
Unwanted visitors
- Newly planted shallots may be visited by gophers and ground squirrels who “un-plant” them. Simply re-plant them until the critters lose interest.
- The green stems of growing shallots can sometimes attract experimental chewing. This should not be too serious and can be managed with row cover or netting.
Watering and fertilizing
- In a typical winter, shallots do not need additional watering, but occasional watering might be needed during a dry winter.
- In the middle of the growing cycle, optionally fertilize the plants with a mild, well-balanced fertilizer such as fish emulsion.
- Do not water or fertilize during the last month of the cycle. Withdrawing water causes the stalks to dry, which is essential for the growth of the bulb.
- If flowers or scapes begin to develop, cut them off at the stem to prevent the shallot from flowering.
- Keep the bed free of weeds. Shallots don't like competition.
Harvesting, curing, and storage
- When the stems have yellowed and begun to dry out, carefully uncover the shallots by loosening the soil and exposing them to the sun. Do not uproot; simply allow them to dry for a day or so. Then lift the shallots free, breaking off the roots holding them to the soil.
- Cure shallots by spreading or hanging in a warm location out of the sun until they feel completely dry. This can take 1 to 4 weeks.
- Trim the stems and roots, leaving about 1½ to 2 inches of stem. Store out of sunlight at moderate temperatures.
- Be sure to keep some of your shallots for replanting. Save the best and eat the rest!
Pest management
Onion and garlic pests and disorders, UC IPM
Recommended varieties for Santa Clara County*
| Dutch Red Shallots | Fast growing Dutch Red Shallots can mature in just 90 days. Small, red/copper-colored, round, mild-flavored shallots, slightly larger than French Grey. Easy to grow and quick to harvest. May be planted in fall, late winter, and early spring in our climate for three possible harvests. Easy to grow in containers. Will produce a large number of offspring. 90 to 100 days |
| Dutch Yellow Shallots | In shape, exterior appearance, and taste, these shallots are virtually indistinguishable from French Red, except for having very pale-yellow flesh. Mild, easy to use. 110 to 120 days |
| French Grey Shallots | Small, slightly irregular, pear-shaped, greyish/brownish shallots. Prized In French cuisine as the “true shallot” or “griselle”. Its unimpressive appearance belies its intense, distinctive, and highly concentrated flavor, which is well-maintained in cooking. Slower to emerge and harvest than others. 120 days |
| French Red Shallots | Large, torpedo-shaped shallots are bigger than Dutch Red. Mild, almost sweet, pinkish flesh. Easy to peel; easy to use raw. 110 to 120 days |
* Other varieties may also do well here in Santa Clara County. This list is based on UC Master Gardener trials, taste tests, and feedback from local growers.