Blueberries

Growing Blueberries in Owens Valley

By Alison Collin, Inyo-Mono Master Gardener Volunteer

 

Requirements:  Blueberries must have an acid soil with a pH of 4.5 - 5.5.  They need soil that is moist, but not waterlogged. They are very shallow rooted and do not tolerate root disturbance or competition from weeds, and often fail to reestablish if moved.   For best fruit production two different varieties should be planted for cross pollination.    They also need sun, but not intense heat. Winter chill requirements vary by type.  They can make quite large bushes so need room to grow and spread.  Blueberries don’t reach the peak of production for 5 years so patience is also required!

Varieties:  There are three main categories – Northern High Bush which require most winter chill, but don’t tolerate heat, Southern Highbush which have large berries and tolerate the heat and require less chill, and Rabbitseye which have small fruit.  Southern Highbush varieties are recommended for the Owens Valley region.

The following varieties have been grown for several years in Bishop and produce reasonable crops, but the yield is not as high as obtained in many places with ideal conditions.

Pink Lemonade: Fruits are reddish pink when its fully ripe.  Bushes grow to 4-5' tall.  Berries are sweet and productive and of medium size and ripen mid to late season. The leaves turn a pretty yellow/orange in the fall. Spring blooms are white and the winter twig color is red, giving you interesting color in all seasons.  USDA Zones 5-9.

Misty: Evergreen in mild winters. To 5’ tall. The bright blue green foliage provides a perfect contrast to the hot pink spring flowers and the sky blue, very flavorful fruit. It yields best when planted with another variety. Hardiness to 0? F, a very low chilling requirement of only 150 chilling hours and a tolerance for higher pH soils makes this a perfect USDA Zones 7-9 choice. Sunshine: Year round foliage and hot pink spring flowers. The bush grows 3-4 feet tall and wide, and produces up to ten pounds of delicious, light blue, medium sized berries. They ripen over a very long season, from early August through early September. Hardiness to 0 degrees F, a very low chilling requirement of only 150 chilling hours and a tolerance for higher pH soils .

O'Neal : Very sweet and firm, large O'Neal berries are held up by many as the best flavored of the Southern Highbush varieties. From mid-May through mid-June, the 4- to 6-ft. bushes produce delicious, medium blue berries. Attractive green-gray foliage turns to shades of orange to wine in fall. Zones 5-9.  Considered best-flavored Southern Highbush

Revielle: Highbush begins flowering in late winter. Very firm and sweet but productivity low. Has not done well in Bishop.

Sweetheart:  Sweetheart is a unique blueberry that produces two crops per year. This berry is considered a Northern Highbush and is winter hardy.  Grows 5-6 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide, USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-8, Chill Requirement: 750-800 chill hours, Harvest Date: Late May to Early June / Second crop in August.

There are smaller varieties which have been bred for growing in containers which have not been tried here. Peach Sorbet is claimed to be very ornamental and suitable for zones 5-10.  Top hat grows slowly and is suitable for rock gardens or containers and is hardy in zones 3-8.

Planting:  Choose container grown plants that look healthy, are not root bound,  and have not suffered any chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves) may be planted in fall or spring (preferred in cold climates).  The soil should be amended with peat or generous amounts of other acid organic material especially if it is not naturally acidic,  or if the irrigation water is alkaline.  Plant at the same depth that it was in the container.  Mulch heavily with pine needles or peat if it is available.  If you should happen to live in a wet soil area then a raised bed would be good.

Irrigation:  Because of the surface growing and spreading nature of the roots the whole area around the plant needs to be watered so drip irrigation, unless the emitters are very close together and encircle the plant is not ideal.  Micro sprinklers are better for giving an even watering. The soil should not become soggy since this will encourage root rot.

Fertilizing:   Do not fertilize at planting time. Four weeks after planting, use a 10-10-10 fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate or a potassium sulfate. Sprinkle 1 ½ tbsp within 12-18 inches of each plant, but not directly on the crown or stems. Or use organic-based fertilizers such as blood, feather, or fish meal at the rate of 1 pound per plant.  If the leaves become yellow (often with veins still green) this most likely indicates chlorosis, or possibly overwatering.  For a quick treatment the plants may be watered with 2 tablespoons of vinegar to one gallon of water. For further information check out this link.

Pruning:  Remove any dead or damaged wood, and as the bush becomes established remove 1-2 of the oldest branches (4-5 years old) each year.

Pests and Diseases:  In this area blueberries don’t seem to be prone to any major diseases or pests.  Leaves can become sunscorched with hot sun exposure.  Berries are said to have problems with anthracnose and botrytis in some damp areas, but so far we have not experienced this problem.