Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County

Client's Request: … Visiting the Master Gardener Help Desk at our new relocated offices @ 2380 Bisso Lane in Concord… I found these spiders in my home … Although I know that they aren't normally found in California (e.g., see spiders.ucr.edu/myth.html), I think that they are Brown Recluse Spiders!

Help Desk Response:  Thank you for bringing your spiders in to the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk. These are not Brown Recluse Spiders, although I would agree they look somewhat similar. We have identified them as Yellow Sac Spiders,  (Cheiracanthium species). Here is a photo of this spider. The eye pattern is one of the main keys to identification: your specimens have eight eyes whereas the brown recluse only has six.

The link following provides some UC information on spiders, and if you scroll down in the link you will see your spider mentioned.http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7442.html 

Yellow sac spiders do sometimes bite if picked up or trapped by clothing, although most people do not experience a bad reaction. You can also find information in the Pest Note on how to manage them. Because spiders are beneficial in the environment, you might consider catching the ones you see and releasing them outside; vacuuming up the spiders and any webs is also quite effective. The bites you have experienced may or may not be caused by the spiders, and I hope that you will not have further problems with this.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us again.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)

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Note:  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (//ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)

Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County……

Client's Request: How do I know when to pick the ripe apples off my backyard tree?

Help Desk Response:  Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Help Desk. Your question about when to pick your apples is an excellent one. Deciding when to pick fruit at the perfect time can be a challenge. Apples can be particularly difficult because they do not soften like a peach or plum when ripe, as well as the fact that not all varieties show an appreciable color change when it's time to pick them.

Using a combination of methods should help you to decide when it's best to pick:

• Monitor the color as it changes. The fruit is ready to pick when it reaches full color, which varies quite a bit by apple variety. Background color on varieties that aren't solid red at maturity will change from greenish to yellowish. Yellow apples will also change from a greenish yellow to a more golden yellow.
• Some varieties will show a whitish, waxy outer coating. This is another sign the apples are ready for picking.
• Watch for apples that begin dropping to the ground. While unhealthy fruit, or fruit that has been damaged by birds, insects or rodents may fall from the tree at anytime, healthy apples typically only begin falling when the fruit is ripe and ready to pick.
• Testing an apple from the tree is the easiest and most obvious way to test for ripeness. Unfortunately, if you have a small tree or a small amount of fruit, picking and testing fruit will cause you to end up with even less to eat or use for cooking. It is important to not pull the fruit from the tree. Lifting the fruit gently up should cause the ripe apples to easily detach from the tree with the stem attached.
• Ripe apples will also have brown seeds instead of the white seeds that appear in immature fruit.
• Flesh will be white instead of tinted green. (for white fleshed apples)

Here is a link to the UC Davis information about harvesting and storing apples.…http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/harvesting.html

I hope this information is helpful. Please feel free to contact us again if you have more questions or concerns.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMH)

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Note:  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (//ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)

Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County

Client's Request:  My Bougainvillea is five years old, but it has never bloomed. What should I do?

MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about your non-blooming Bougainvillea. Based on the fact that your plant is five years old and hasn't bloomed, we find there are a few things to consider.

First, the Sunset Western Garden Book says that these vines need to be planted on a protected warm wall or the warmest spot in the garden. If they get by the first winter or two, they will be big enough to take most winter damage and recover. They do need full sun and the definition of “Full Sun” is at least six hours of sun per day. We think you may need to consider carefully relocating your plant to a sunnier area for better bloom results, or you might also consider transferring your plant to a large pot and locating it in a protected yet sunny location on a patio. Bougainvillea do not like to be moved, so if you decide to do this, make sure to dig out as much of the root ball as you can in order to lessen root disturbance.

Second, for great color and abundant blossoms, it is recommended that you feed your plant. According to our research, hibiscus or Bougainvillea food are a good choice for Bougainvillea because of the inclusion of iron and other micro-nutrients these plants need. If you use other types of fertilizer, read your fertilizer label and make sure that the first number is lower (nitrogen amount) and follow the directions for application. The (higher) nitrogen content of the fertilizer you use may be what is causing your vibrant flush of green leaves and no flowers!

Third, Bougainvillea are drought tolerant once they are established. However, they like to be watered deeply and then allowed to dry out. They do not like wet soil, so drainage is important whether you plant them in the ground or in a pot. If you plant in a pot, do not use a saucer or water dish. Too much water or waterlogged roots can cause bracts to drop, or your plant to stop blooming completely.

Finally, Bougainvillea bloom on new wood so pruning and pinching are important. Pruning can be done at any time of the year, and is used to shape the plant. Bougainvillea can be pruned hard to restrict growth, and stems can be pruned to create branching. Shaping your plant depends on if you want it to grow aggressively for a hedge, or vertically to cover a trellis, or want it to be full, bushy and overflowing for a pot.  Pinching is also important. Pinching is the method of removing the soft, growing tips of young plant stems to encourage fuller growth. The more you pinch, the more your bougainvillea will branch and bloom, so prune and pinch after a flowering cycle has completed.

Here are links to free UC information for optimum conditions for growth and common pests of these plants:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/bougainvillea.html
http://ucanr.edu/blogs/napanewspaper/index.cfm?tagname=bougainvillea

One cultivar that many gardeners are able to grow successfully in Contra Costa County partly due to its frost hardiness: Bougainvillea 'San Diego Red' is evergreen and grows to 15–30' tall. ‘San Diego Red' is one of the most cold-tolerant Bougainvillea available with lipstick-red bracts. It is known for its ability to cope with the occasional freeze; it has been noted as hardy down to 20°F.

Good luck with getting your Bougainvillea to bloom!  These lovely plants are definitely worth the effort to grow!

Please let us know if you have any additional questions.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)

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Mark your calendars now!  Our popular Fall for Plants gardening workshop will be returning to Walnut Creek on Saturday, September 8.  For more information, visit the event main page and the workshop program page.

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Note:  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (//ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)

 

Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
 
Client's Request:  Hi, I've created a new garden area this year. I've put down new dirt and compost but haven't had time this year to plant anything other than my green onions. I've recently noticed cat poop in the new garden from a neighbor's cat that roams at night. 

1st question: is there something to deter the cat from coming in our yard or at least the garden area?
2nd question: Nw that there's poop and pee all in the garden, I'd hate to waste $ on all that dirt. I keep extracting the poop but is the dirt now contaminated to where i shouldn't use that dirt anymore???

Help Desk Response:  Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your questions about cats in your garden. Your neighbor's house cat really doesn't belong in your garden. As you are finding, there is a lot of the "ick" factor about their feces.

Below are some ideas for keeping cats out of your garden. There are many levels of deterrent you can use, and it may take some experimenting to figure out what works best for you and the neighbor's cat. 

• The most effective method is to block access. Use a chicken wire fence or wire cage around your bed, or use floating row covers. If you don't have children, a low voltage electrical wire can be effective. You can find these online or at some home improvement stores.
• Another idea for blocking access is to erect a flimsy chicken wire fence attached to the top of your fence to block access. Cats don't like to climb things that won't support their weight, so this may keep it out of your yard completely. 
• Since cats like the garden's soft soil, you can make it less attractive by placing chopsticks or bamboo skewers every 8" or so, making it uncomfortable for a cat to do its business.
• Motion-activated sprinklers are another good way to deter visitors to the garden. Just make sure you turn it off when you want into the garden. You can find these online. 
• Cat (and dog) repellents are available, but in my experience, they don't smell very good to humans either. You could try spraying along the top of the neighbor's fence or other access point. I wouldn't spray this in any planted areas, though.

Cat feces can carry diseases such as toxoplasmosis, salmonella, and intestinal parasites. You don't, however, need to replace all your soil. When you notice feces, remove it and the soil it's touching. It's a good idea to put it in a plastic bag and dispose of it in your garbage can. Cat urine should not pose a problem for your soil, unless there is a large quantity in a small area. Then, use plenty of water to dilute it in the soil. Cats return to an area to defecate because they can smell where they went before, so removing the soil around the feces should reduce the repeet visits.

Food safety with plants grown in your garden is important. I would avoid planting root crops (carrots, beets, etc.) or leafy greens that are eaten raw (lettuce) in areas heavily used by a cat. Other crops should be fine. This link is to information about food safety in the home vegetable garden. https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8366.pdf

I hope some of these ideas will help keep the neighbor's cat out and give you a cleaner garden experience. And we can always hope cat owners learn that it's better and safer for their cats to be indoor cats. 

Good luck with your new garden. Please let us know if you have further questions.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)

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Mark your calendars now!  Our popular Fall for Plants gardening workshop will be returning to Walnut Creek on Saturday, September 8.  For more information, visit the event main page and the workshop program page.

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Note:  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (//ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)