Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: Thank you for calling the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk this morning with a question about your young peach tree.
You have a young tree, planted bare root into a pot in January 2018, and then transplanted directly into the garden in the late spring / early summer when you were able to do so. You planted several fruit trees at the same time, and all were planted initially into pots and then into the garden, in roughly similar locations, with good drainage in the garden. All of the trees have been similarly irrigated. All of the trees are doing well with the exception of the peach. The peach had curling leaves last year (every single leaf appeared wilted) and you would like to prevent this, this year. You are wondering whether this is “peach leaf curl” or something else, and whether or not to presume it was peach leaf curl and to spray now.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7426.html
If, after looking at these images, you decide that your leaves looked like this, then I would proceed as recommended in the UC Pest Note linked above.
If you do not think that your leaves looked like this, then we need to consider other possibilities. Wilted leaves can be evidence of a water transport problem in the plant. In this case, something in the vascular system isn't working as it should.
Beginning with the transplant from pot to garden last year, is it possible that the root ball was damaged? Or that there were air pockets in the garden created during transplant, causing some of the roots to dry out? Or that moles, squirrels or other garden visitors have created air pockets near the roots? If you think this is possible then I would dig down and fill those pockets with a wet-soil-sludge mixture to fill them in.
Is it possible that you have overwatered or that the drainage isn't quite as good as you had thought? Good drainage is one of the most important factors in siting fruit trees. Excess water in the root zone will produce a similar-looking result in the plant to a lack of water, since the roots will rot and cannot perform their intended function. In this case be cautious this spring with watering. Once the rains stop and you begin watering again, use a moisture meter or dig down 4 to 6 inches, and learn about your soil. Or perhaps you didn't water enough? Young trees are particularly susceptible to roots drying out. This link discusses irrigation of fruit trees:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/fruitwatering.html
Young trees have undeveloped root systems that are not very extensive. Because of this, your young trees need consistent moisture levels in their root zone in order to thrive. The "goldilocks" amount: not too much, not too little.
Some peaches are susceptible to root-feeding nematodes. Nematodes are tiny, eel-like roundworms. The species that attack plants are usually too small to be seen without a microscope, a soil test will be required. Here is a link to our local ist of soil testing labs for home gardeners. (http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/51308.pdf) Different labs perform different tests at different costs. I suggest that you call all or some of the labs to find out if they test for root feeding nematodes, whether or not the tests can provide definitive results, and the costs.
Inadequate nutrition from the soil can also result in discolored and crinkly leaves, look at the pictures at this link:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/nutrientdefic.html
The soil test can also provide information about the nutrition available in your garden soil, if you request this.
You mentioned that you purchased the tree from a local nursery. Although a few local nurseries (usually bigger stand-alone ones) also are a grower for some species, they do not grow their own fruit trees, they rather purchase them (this year, last year, and many years prior) from a grower specializing in fruit trees, often in the Central Valley or lately for citrus in the Monterey Bay area. You might take a look at one of the various grower nursery websites and look up the particular variety of peach that you purchased to find out what you can learn. Most of the nursery grown fruit trees are grafted on root stocks. Some rootstocks are resistant to root-feeding nematodes. It might be helpful to know whether you have a more susceptible tree by identifying the rootstock which can often be found in the grower's catalogue or web site..
Overall, this link will give you valuable information on planting, care, and irrigation of young trees. http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8048.pdf
Good luck with sorting this out and please contact us if we can help further.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (MCW)
Note: UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I'd like to feed my horses with Orchard Grass Hay. I'd like to be assured that it is "safe" for the horses and get it tested and analyzed to assure that it is "safe". Can you point me to labs that do that type of testing?And does UC do that type of testing like other states do?
Help Desk Response: Thank you for calling the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk. You asked about finding a testing facility for your orchard grass hay. The University of California does not provide this testing service outside of their own research, but here is some information below that may be helpful to you.
The National Forage Testing Association has a list of certified labs, some of which are in California:
http://animalrangeextension.montana.edu/forage/documents/2016_Certified_Labs.pdf
Here is an article from the Western Farm Press listing the California labs.
https://www.farmprogress.com/12-california-labs-certified-national-forage-testing-association
Also, an internet search 'Hay analysis for horses' came up with a number of good sites, including those from horse journals and university extension websites, with information on this subject.
If you contact one of the above certified labs, they will advise you on how to collect and submit the samples.
I hope this is helpful, and that your horses are in the best of health!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Note: UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request via email (preceded by telephone conversation at 925- 608-6683).
Thanks for your interest in our distressed navel orange tree. Here is the information you requested from our phone conversation and some photos. My 60 - 80 (?) year old orange tree has, for the three years we have lived here, regularly produced abundant crops of many hundreds of exceptionally delicious fruit each year, February - June.
In the last four weeks it has been dropping oranges at an increasing rate, by now many dozens a day, totaling over 300.
It is over two stories tall and grows in Martinez, California, in a moderate climate with hot summers and cool winters.
As you can see from the photos, the fruit is splitting, leaves are drooping, the canopy is diminishing, and a few clusters of branches have died. There is a tree nearby of the same age and size that does not appear to have any problem at all.
Our tree has not been watered regularly during the dry season, whereas the neighboring tree is surrounded by a watered lawn.
It was given a fertilization of nitrogen last year, and we wonder if this, or the lack of watering, could be the cause.
What can we do to save this magnificent tree?
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your primary issue that your orange tree's fruit splitting and also the leaves are drooping and turning over
Splitting citrus fruit is a common problem, especially with navel oranges. The following link (http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8038.pdf) is a short 1-1/2 page informative UC document which describes the condition, along with suggestions for resolution.
Very briefly, fruit splitting is likely the result of stress to the tree, and is probably related to extreme fluctuations in temperature, humidity, soil moisture, and possibly fertilizer levels. The disorder is often caused by a combination of these factors rather than by a single cause.
Avoiding fluctuations in soil moisture (I suggest adding mulch under the tree canopy and consistent and ample water, especially during heat spells) as well as fertilizer levels throughout the growing season may help to minimize fruit split.
I believe the leaf drooping and turning over are also symptoms of too little water during the hot season. The dropping of leaves and resulting thinning of canopy often are the result of too little water on both fruit and ornamental trees.
I am also including some additional links which will provide information on growing healthy citrus here in Contra Costa County. In particular take a look at the 2nd link below as that will provide you with assistance on watering and fertilizing.
http://ucanr.edu/blogs/slomggarden/blogfiles/4260.pdf
http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Citrus/
Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (EDC)
Note: UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk. It was nice to speak with you this morning. You asked about when to spread compost on your garden--whether you should do it now or wait until spring. There is no wrong time to put compost into the garden, but the microbes that decompose the compost and make nutrients available work much slower in the winter. As soon as the soil warms up, the microbes work faster. If you choose to wait until spring, make sure you apply it at least a couple of weeks before you plant.
Here's a link to information about rapid composting you might find interesting: https://vric.ucdavis.edu/pdf/compost_rapidcompost.pdf.
And more information about using compost in the home garden can be found at:
http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/221120.pdf.
Please don't hesitate to contact us again with further gardening questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Note: UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Updated Version of 12/24/18 blog to correct errors
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I would like to plant an avocado tree that has the following specifications: I live in West County where it is cool and foggy and I want a dwarf tree that is self-pollinating. Also, how far from my existing avocado tree can I plant my new tree?
Pollination: While avocado trees self-fertilize and produce fruit, yields should increase if both a Type A avocado tree and a Type B avocado tree are planted in order to increase the chances for successful pollination. The avocado tree has both functional male and female organs. The male floral organ (stamen) which produces pollen, is comprised of the anther and filament. The female floral organ (pistil) which receives the pollen, is comprised of the stigma style and ovary.
The avocado exhibits a type of flowering behavior known as “synchronous dichogamy.” An individual flower will open for two days and the timing of the male and female phases is distinct. There are two flowering types, referred to as “A” and “B” flower types. “A” varieties open as female on the morning of the first day. The flower closes in late morning or early afternoon. The flower will remain closed until the afternoon of the second day when it opens as male. “B” varieties open as female on the afternoon of the first day, close in late afternoon and re-open in the male phase the following morning. This flowering behavior is believed to promote cross-pollination since the male and female phases of an individual tree occur at different times. It is believed that the interplanting of complimentary flower types can boost fruit set and yield by making pollen more available.
The following identifies common varieties for each flowering type:
Table 1 of http://ucavo.ucr.edu/Flowering/FloweringBasics.html
You mentioned that you have an existing avocado tree. If you know which flowering type your tree is, then plan to plant another tree of the other flowering type, so you will be more successful in cross-pollinating both trees.
You also asked how far apart to plant the two trees. You can plant the new tree anywhere in the yard and cross-pollination should occur. Depending on the size of your existing tree, be aware that you don't want to plant the new tree in the shadow of the existing tree. Here is a link that provides information on avocado tree flowering behavior:
http://ucavo.ucr.edu/Flowering/FloweringBasics.html
In general, avocado trees do best at moderately warm temperatures (60‒85 degrees F.) with moderate humidity. Optimum fruit set occurs from 65‒75 degrees F. Cooler or warmer temperatures are less ideal. They can tolerate temperatures, once established, of about 28‒32 degrees F with minimal damage. Plant your tree in March through June. If you plant during the summer, there is always the risk of sun damage, because avocado trees don't absorb water very well when they are young. Plant in a spot protected from wind and frost, and planting in full sun is best. The avocado is a shallow-rooted tree with most of its feeder roots in the top six inches of the soil, so give it good aeration. Its root system is very sensitive, and great care should be taken not to disturb it when transplanting. Avocado trees like the pH of the soil to be about 6‒6.5. If you have heavy clay soil, elevate the tree in a mound for better drainage, making the mound 1‒2 feet high and 3‒5 feet around. Here is a link with information on growing avocado trees:
http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Avocado/
In my research for finding a type of dwarf avocado tree, I found this link:
http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/Edible_Plants/?uid=127&ds=530
The Wurtz avocado tree (flowering type A) is sometimes referred to as Little Cado and it is the only true dwarf variety of avocado. It will consistently produce good fruit from May to September. Compared to other avocado trees which can grow up to 80 feet, a Wurtz grows to about 10 feet. It is a hybrid created from the Mexican and Guatemalan avocado species, and produces abundant fruits within one to two years of planting if it is a grafted tree. Grown in the right conditions, and properly cared for, a Wurtz avocado tree will do well in mild-winter areas of California. While it can tolerate temperatures as low as 25 degrees F, it should be kept in a warm environment with protection against strong winds and frost. A young tree, one that is less than 12 months old, requires shelter from direct summer sunlight or the stems and bark will burn. If its trunk is exposed to sun, it will also be important to protect it from sunburn by painting it with a 50:50 mix of white interior latex paint and water. After several years the tree will grow enough foliage to shade itself from the sun.
If the Wurtz avocado tree is cared for properly, it will start growing flowers for pollination sometime between January and March within one to two years of planting (if it is a grafted tree). Purchasing a grafted tree from a nursery is the easiest way for the home gardener to have a fruit-bearing tree. Once the flowers are pollinated, the Wurtz bears fruit that ripens between May and September. The fruits are dark green and medium in size ranging from 6‒12 ounces. They have thin, shiny skins with a small seed. The fruits have been rated by growers as having a good and consistent flavor with an oil content of 16%. Avocados will not ripen while still on the tree. Harvest when fruits are of mature size and still firm. They will ripen in one to two weeks at room temperature.
Good luck in growing your next avocado tree and let us know if you have any further questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (BY)
and Allen Buchinski for correcting the original's copy errors and the editor's misses.
Note: UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ignore.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.