- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Did you know that there are 73 species of dragonflies (Anisoptera) in California?
We've been waiting for an updated field guide book on our state's dragonflies, and now it's here.
Dragonfly experts Kathy Biggs and Sandra von Arb have just announced their newly published book, Dragonflies (Anisoptera) of California,published by Nature/Field Guides. It's a 200-page, spiral-bound book, rich with images, and featuring ALL of the 73 known species of dragonflies in California (many of these dragonflies also inhabit nearby states).
We remember Biggs and von Arb sharing their expertise at a dragonfly open house at the Bohart Museum of Entomology, UC Davis, on Sept. 20, 2015 with international dragonfly authority Rosser Garrison, author of Dragonfly Genera of the New World: an llustrated and Annotated Key to the Anisoptera (now a retired insect biosystematist, California Department of Food and Agriculture); and Bohart associate Greg Kareofelas. UC Davis doctoral candidate Christofer Brothers also has shared his expertise on dragonflies at Bohart Museum open houses.
Biggs and von Arb relate they met through their shared passion for dragonflies. Biggs? An experienced dragonfly guide and author. Von Arb? A biologist and founder of the Biodiversity Education and Research Foundation, commonly known as BEAR or BEAR Foundation.
The authors point out that the book contains:
- More than 146 full-color photographs of both the males and females and their descriptions (photos also include nymph/exuvia for each genus)
- Habitat, distribution maps, flight periods, behaviors, similar species and oviposition techniques for each species
- Clear and easy-to-use format
Among the photographers contributing to the book are Pierre Deviche, Jim Johnson and Matthew Matthiessen. "Greg (Kareofelas) has a thumbnail showing a close-up of one of a snake tail faces showing the horns on the females," Biggs added.
You can order the book here. The link shows sample pages as well. It may be available soon from the Bohart Museum of Entomology gift shop, where Biggs also has dragonfly books.
Now, I'm waiting for that flameskimmer to snag a flying insect, just as its ancestors did. Dragonflies existed before the Age of Dinosaurs; dinosaurs lived during the Mesozoic Era (and that was 252 to 66 million years ago). Indeed, fossil records show that these dragonfly ancestors were the world's largest flying insects, some with wing spans measuring three feet.
It's hot. Tomatoes like heat, right? Actually, tomatoes like warm weather, between 65 and 85 degrees. When temperatures soar past 95, tomatoes stop growing. In that kind of heat, their flowers fail to pollinate and instead they dry up and drop off, putting a pause on the production of new fruit. Tomatoes that have begun to color will halt at orange and fail to turn red.
If your tomato plant has good green leaf color, is flowering and has fruit developing, but its leaves are curling up, you are experiencing a common summer problem for tomatoes in our area. The culprit again is most likely heat. Tomato leaves transpire water from the undersides of their leaves. When a tomato plant can't take in as much water as it is losing, its leaves will curl up. This occurs when the soil is too dry, the temperature is too hot, or it's too windy. Check soil moisture by poking a finger an inch into the soil. If it's dry, it's time to water. Leaf curl is the tomato's way of reducing leaf surface area to reduce water loss. Curling up will not affect fruit production or the health of the plant.
There is one further thing to rule out before you rest in the tranquility that upward leaf curl requires no action on the gardener's part: pests. Check a few leaves to be sure the curl isn't harboring an insect or caterpillar cocoon. No caterpillar, no problem. Your tomatoes are fine in their self-protective upward curl.
A two- to three-inch layer of mulch around tomatoes will help the soil retain moisture and stay cooler. Straw, wood chips, chopped leaves, and grass clippings are all fine mulches for this purpose. Mulch also helps keep moisture around tomato plants more even; this can keep the fruit from cracking and help to prevent blossom drop.
Ever wondered how to encourage sweeter tomatoes? Here temperature and sun are your friends, to a point. Ninety degrees and lots of sun will give you a sweeter tomato. At 100 degrees, fruits develop color on the outside, but stay green on the inside: not tasty. So when temperatures soar, pick tomatoes that have begun to color and allow them to ripen indoors. Remember: never refrigerate a tomato.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
- Author: National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC)
Acetic acid, also known as vinegar, is used in products for weed control. Many people choose it because it is natural. However, acetic acid can damage skin and eyes, especially at concentrations commonly found in weed killers.
What is the difference between acetic acid, vinegar, and horticultural vinegar?
You may know acetic acid best as vinegar. Vinegar is a solution of acetic acid in water. Acetic acid is a naturally occurring substance that is found in all living things. It is formed during fermentation. Acetic acid can also be made industrially. It is used in many industrial processes, including the manufacture of dyes, plastics, some drugs, and other industrial chemicals. It is also used in textile printing.
Household vinegar such as distilled white vinegar used for cleaning or cooking generally contains 4-6% acetic acid, which is diluted in water. Higher strength acetic acid solutions are sold for other purposes. Horticultural vinegar typically refers to a concentrated solution of 20% or more acetic acid. It is sold to kill weeds. You may find even higher concentrations of acetic acid sold in stores or online.
Are there health risks of using vinegar/acetic acid?
Acetic acid is irritating to the eyes and skin. At concentrations above those usually found in household vinegar, it can be extremely irritating or corrosive. Acetic acid can permanently damage the corneas if it gets into your eyes. It can burn skin and the tissues of your mouth and throat if you accidentally swallow it. People have had irritation in their nose, throat, and in their lungs if they breathed in enough of the vapor.
Never leave any pesticide unattended around children or pets. Never leave any pesticide in an unlabeled container. "Natural" does not mean "safe!" Remember, the dose makes the poison. The higher the concentration of acetic acid, the greater the risk.
How does vinegar/acetic acid kill weeds?
Acetic acid is a non-selective contact herbicide. It must touch the foliage of the plant in order to work. It does not damage tissue it does not touch. It does not travel throughout the plant. Acetic acid breaks open cell walls and causes cell death. The plants die by drying out.
Acetic acid breaks down rapidly in the environment. It does not leave a residue.
Acetic acid readily turns into a vapor. Like other chemicals, warmer temperatures increase volatilization, or turning into a vapor. The vapor can irritate the nose, throat, and lungs if breathed in. Prolonged exposure to high concentrations of the vapor can cause fluid buildup in the lungs.
What sort of pesticide/herbicide products contain vinegar/acetic acid?
Products containing vinegar/acetic acid that have been registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA) as pesticides/herbicides will have a signal word and an EPA registration number on their packaging. Label information includes where and how to use the product, what precautions to take, personal protective gear to wear while using the product, and first aid instructions in case something goes wrong.
Products registered to be used as herbicides have high concentrations of acetic acid, typically 20% or more. All registered herbicides containing acetic acid have a signal word of DANGER because of the high concentrations and high toxicity. Specifically, it is because of the risks of the acid to the eyes and skin. Low concentrations of acetic acid are used in insect lures.
Acetic acid is available commercially for many purposes. Consider purchasing a product registered as a pesticide if you plan to use acetic acid for weed control. Doing so means you will have directions for use as an herbicide and information on precautions you can take to keep risks low. Products that do not have an EPA registration number and signal word are not registered to be used as herbicides and may not have appropriate safety or precautionary information for that use. Look for an EPA Registration Number and a signal word to ensure you are purchasing a registered product.
How can I reduce the risks when using vinegar/acetic acid?
- Any time you use a pesticide, always read and follow all label instructions. The label is the law.
- If the label specifies personal protective equipment, you must use that equipment.
- Wear long sleeves, long pants, shoes, socks, and gloves at a minimum whenever using any pesticide.
- Consider wearing protective eye wear and chemical resistant gloves when mixing, diluting, or applying vinegar as an herbicide because of its acidic and corrosive nature. The label instructions may require their use.
- Keep everyone else away from the treatment area until dry.
- Keep all pesticides away from children and pets. Remember that horticultural vinegar can badly damage your eyes or blind you!
- Consider integrated pest management strategies that do not use chemicals to control weeds.
For more information about pesticides and pesticide safety, visit the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) website at npic.orst.edu.
[Originally featured in the Summer 2024 edition of the Home and Garden Pest Newsletter]
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Let's go mothing!
What's mothing? The National Moth Week website describes mothing as "a hobby for nature enthusiasts who use light or bait to attract moths to a location for observation and data collection."
So, in keeping with National Moth Week, the Bohart Museum of Entomology is hosting its annual Moth Night from 7 to 11 p.m. on Saturday, July 20 at its headquarters in Room 1124 of the Academic Surge Building, 455 Crocker Lane, UC Davis. Outside, Bohart research associate John "Moth Man" De Benedictus will set up a blacklighting display, complete with white sheet and a UV light to attract moths and other night-flying insects.
Inside, Jeff Smith, curator of the Lepidoptera collection at the Bohart, and his colleagues will displays moth specimens and answer questions.
The event is free and family friendly. Tabatha Yang, education and outreach coordinator, says that traditionally, "we serve hot chocolate an cookies."
Have you taken any images of moths lately? In the moth world, we mostly photograph the diurnal or day-flying moths.
Take the plume moth. In his book, California Insects, UC Berkeley entomologist Jerry Powell (1933-2023) explains why they're called plume moths..."because the forewings are deeply notched and the hindwings are divided into three linear parts, each with long scale fringes. When perched, the insects roll the forewings around the folded hindwing plumes, resulting in peculiar sticklike or craneflylike appearance, unlike any other moth." Most are nocturnal and are attracted to lights, Powell adds.
Another example of a moth that flies during the day an night is the white-lined sphinx moth (Hyles lineata).
You'll see those and more at the Bohart Museum's Moth Night.
The Bohart Museum, founded in 1946, houses a global collection of 8 million insect specimens, plus a petting zoo (think Madagascar hissing cockroaches, stick insects and tarantulas) and an insect-themed gift shop. Director is Professor Jason Bond, the Evert and Marion Schlinger Endowed Chair, UC Davis Department of Entomology and Nematology, and associate dean, Agricultural Sciences, UC Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
- Author: Belinda Messenger-Sikes
Exotic and invasive pests threaten California's natural environments, agricultural production, structures, landscapes and gardens. Exotic pests are organisms introduced into an area beyond their natural range and become pests in the new environment. Most introductions have been unintentional and accidental, but some invasive plant problems began as ornamental plants for sale.
Invasive species prevention is the most economical and desirable approach to invasive species management. However, when prevention isn't successful, pesticides may be needed to eradicate or control invasive species.
What are some problematic invasive species?
Aedes mosquitoes can transmit some of the most debilitating and deadly mosquito-borne pathogens to humans, such as Zika virus, dengue virus, chikungunya virus, and yellow fever virus. One Aedes species is also capable of transmitting heartworm to dogs. These invasive mosquitoes are now present in many regions of California, from Shasta County to San Diego County.
The glassy-winged sharpshooter is a large leafhopper that can transmit several important, often fatal, plant diseases in California. This includes Pierce's disease of grape, alfalfa dwarf, almond leaf scorch, and mulberry leaf scorch. Pierce's disease is of most concern in California since the state produces 94% of U.S. grapes.
Pampasgrass is a common ornamental landscape plant that readily naturalizes throughout California's coastal areas and some interior regions. Historically, pampasgrass was planted for erosion control, but it has since escaped cultivation and spread along sandy, moist ditch banks throughout coastal regions of southern California. Pampagrass can also grow in the hot, dry climate of inland areas of California.
Hydrilla is an invasive, aquatic weed that can be found in many slow-moving freshwater bodies in California. The plant forms large mats that can crowd out native plants, restrict water flow, and interfere with boating and fishing. These mats can reduce habitat for fish and other wildlife, degrade water quality, and increase the risk of flooding
What can you do?
- Learn to identify invasive species new to California. See the UC IPM Invasive and Exotic pests pages.
- Use plants native to your area for landscaping. Native plants can require less water, provide habitat for native butterflies and pollinators, and usually have fewer pest problems, too.
- Don't release exotic or invasive plants into the environment. Never dump your aquatic plants or aquarium water into streams or creeks, since many aquarium plants are highly invasive.
- Be careful what you bring back when you travel. Don't bring foreign plant or animal material into California.
- Don't move firewood. Buy it where you burn it.
- Report invasive species in your area! Contact your local UC Cooperative Extension office or Agricultural Commissioner.
- Cooperate with authorities during invasive species control activities.
[Originally featured in the Summer 2024 edition of the Home and Garden Pest Newsletter]
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