- Author: Ed Perry
For many in California, the backyard orange or grapefruit tree is almost a member of the family, and any negative change in its appearance elicits concern. One such change in appearance is leaf yellowing and drop that often occurs during the winter in citrus. Citrus leaves can remain on the tree for as long as three years depending on tree vigor, but disease, inadequate or excessive nitrogen fertility, excessive salt or born in the soil, poor irrigation practices, freezing temperatures, pest pressures and low light levels significantly reduce leaf longevity. Excessive leaf drop during the growing season is more likely to indicate a serious problem than leaf drop during the winter. Winter leaf drop normally reflects nothing more than a momentary swing in the natural balance between the natural elimination of old senescing leaves and their replacement.
Reduce winter water applications to citrus trees that have defoliated or that have a significantly thinning canopy. Trees like this require little, if any, supplemental irrigation. Even a mature tree with a full leaf canopy will require less than 10% of the water that it would require during the summer.
The best indicator of tree health for a defoliating citrus tree during the winter will be how well it produces the first flush of new growth in the spring. A decision to keep or remove a citrus tree based on tree health should not be made during the winter. Even trees that lose most of their leaves during winter are capable of replacing leaf canopies with the spring flush of growth, usually with little loss in fruit production. Trees that do not produce a vigorous flush in early spring may have a more serious problem. March is an excellent month to begin applying fertilizer to encourage new leaf growth and fruit production and to help keep an old friend of the farm or family backyard around for years to come.
Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.
Citrus trees are one of the most popular fruit trees grown in California. Not everyone can grow Lemons, limes, kumquats, pomelo, grapefruit, and oranges, just to name a few! The climate has to be just right, and the Central Valley of California is perfect for this crop.
We hope you will join us for an evening learning how to successfully grow citrus in your garden. We will discuss how to properly plant, water, and care for your tree, including when to fertilize, if and when you should prune, and also some of the common pests that cause problems for gardeners.
Where*: On Zoom. You will receive a link the morning of the class.
When: Tuesday, March 29, 2022 6:00-7:30 p.m.
Cost: Free
Register at: http://ucanr.edu/citrus/2022
Instructors: Master Gardener Tim Long and Master Gardener Coordinator Anne Schellman
Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Subject: Grapefruit Tree vs Woodpecker
Cllient's Request: How can we keep a woodpecker(s) from making holes in the tree bark? We don't have any insects/ants on the tree bark and we're concerned that the damage will make the tree susceptible to disease. Thank you.
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with a question about woodpeckers on your grapefruit tree. From our phone conversation this morning, I identified the culprits as sapsuckers. These drill a series of holes, usually in straight horizontal lines, in live trees so plant sap oozes out of the holes. Sapsuckers feed on the sap, as well as on any insects that become trapped in the sap. Most of the time, sapsucker holes do not cause problems for the tree. When there is continuous sapsucker activity that increases the lines of holes to a significant percentage of the tree's trunk area, it can weaken the tree and potentially kill it.
Physical exclusion is the best way to prevent any kind of woodpecker damage. There are several methods you might see mentioned to prevent such as frightening devices or repellents, but these are not typically successful as birds quickly become accustomed to the deterrent. Covering the trunk with something that will prevent access to the tree bark is the best way to get sapsuckers to move on. Sections of lightweight sheet metal or roof flashing are fairly easy to shape around the trunk. You can get rolls of aluminum flashing at home improvement stores. Heavyweight plastic material can also be used. Use duct tape to hold it in place. You can also use wire mesh such as chicken wire, especially if it's bunched up somewhat. You will probably need to cover a great deal of the tree's bark to prevent the birds from just moving to an uncovered area. Whatever you use to cover the bark, make sure it is not too tight--you want to leave room for the tree to grow--and remove it when the birds have moved on. Depending on the size of the tree, you could also cover the entire tree with bird netting that you securely attach around the low base of the trunk to prevent all access to the tree.
Woodpeckers drill holes in trees for a variety of reasons. The largest holes are drilled for nest construction, usually in dead trees. Acorn woodpeckers drill 1/2 inch holes in which they store acorns. Smaller random holes are those made while looking for food. Woodpeckers' sharply pointed beaks and long tongues are used for extracting larvae and other insects from wood crevices. This can actually alert you to burrowing insects damaging a tree.
This link is to more information from the University of California about managing woodpeckers: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74124.html.
I hope this information is helpful. Please don't hesitate to contact us again if you have more questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
- Author: Ben Faber
So, this image comes across with the question of what is going on. It's a grapefruit, but what is going on with the leaves? It's happening to two grapefruit side by side or two different ages. It's not affecting other citrus nearby, and not a grapefruit several hundred feet away. Nothing like insect damage. It's not a nutrient deficiency because it's not following a clear pattern. It doesn't look like a chimera, which is common in citrus, because it's only a few outer leaves. It doesn't fit the pattern of an herbicide. It wouldn't be a contact or a drift spray because is both veinal and interveinal, and not strongly one or the other, so it's not consistent with a soil-applied herbicide either.
A plant pathologist and an herbologist (weed specialist) both asked if there had been a change in light -Different light exposure or more drought stress. Was a nearby tree removed or somehow the tree got more exposure than previously? Citrus Specialist, Peggy Mauk, nailed it, though. She said this type of coloration is characteristic of ‘Star Ruby' grapefruit when it is water stressed. And this can occur when the tree is more exposed to wind or light which is what happened here when a nearby hedge was pruned. The other citrus being less affected by such obvious symptoms, although probably stressed, as well.
- Author: Ben Faber
The whole group of plants we lump under the taxonomic classification of citrus are really changeable. It's out of this changeability that we get new varieties. Some of these can be quite fanciful, almost dream like fruit which is where the origin of the name chimera comes from. Buddha's Hand is a pretty dream-like fruit.
These changes are a genetic mutation that occurs in a branch or twig, and if that tissue survives, it can produce new shoots (called sports or chimera) with characteristics different from the those of the mother tree. These mutations can affect the color of the rind or pulp or the shape of the fruit.
Leaves on these twigs can have a different shape or size have a variegated color.
Mutations can cause the development of multiple buds, creating bunchy growth or “witches' broom.”
A chimera can produce an improved crop: some of today's cultivars were propagated from chimeras, such as the variegated pink lemon.
Usually sports are of inferior quality and should be avoided as propagation material. Prune sports that obstruct normal growth or interfere with harvest.
But some of them are so weird you just want to keep them around. This one showed up on one and only one tree branch in a lemon orchard. It looks like citrus scab, sort of, but on only one branch of one tree.
Some of the changes that you see in a tree can also be symptoms of a whole lot of other problems, like nutrients, Huanglongbing or herbicide damage. Check out some of the symptoms:http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpfruitdis.html
Some chimeras are yet to be found out. This image of spiral tattooing showed up for several years ago in a Meyer lemon orchard. It was erratic and inconsistent in a tree, not typical of a chimera. The orchard was finally removed because it wasn't making money. Now it just seems like a dream and will never know if it was a true chimera.