- Author: Anne Schellman
What is a Deciduous Fruit tree?
Deciduous fruit trees lose their leaves in fall, and include apple, pear, fig, pomegranate, nectarine, cherry, apricot, peach, and plum.
Planting New Trees & Understanding Where Fruit Originates
Sometimes a fruit tree mysteriously dies, and the gardener isn't sure what happened. A common cause is a tree that was planted too deeply. Root and crown rot slowly affect the tree, causing it to die years later. Watch the detailed instructions on how to plant correctly.
It's important to understand how new fruit develops and grows on the tree. Not all deciduous fruit trees produce fruit in the same place. It's important to know this so you don't accidentally cut off fruit spurs and damage your tree's ability to produce fruit. See this video for guidance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4fgVrf8XHE&t=250s
Publication - Fruit Trees: Planting and Care of Young Trees https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/Details.aspx?itemNo=8048
Fruit Trees: Training and Pruning Deciduous Trees https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/Details.aspx?itemNo=8057
Keeping New Trees Small – the Fruit Bush Method
Tired of out-of-control fruit trees? If you are planting a new tree, watch this video! It details the Fruit Bush Method, a specific way of keeping fruit trees small. See photos of 5-6' tall fruit trees planted over 30 years ago that continue to produce an ample amount of fruit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry4YAp6NzdI&t=1s
Pruning Established Trees
Other Helpful Publications
Fruit Trees: Thinning Young Fruit https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/Details.aspx?itemNo=8047
What about Citrus Trees?
Citrus trees such as oranges, lemons, grapefruits, lime, and kumquats are evergreen trees and need different care than deciduous trees. It's not recommended to prune citrus trees at the same time as deciduous fruit trees. Wait until spring to prune your tree for size and shape.
We are offering an online class on citrus on January 31, so watch for our registration advertisement in about a week. Locally, we will be teaching at 8 library locations about citrus during March.
/h3>/h3>/h3>/h3>/h3>/h3>- Author: Ben Faber
That's a good question. Some question whether they flourish now. Southern California does not have the landscapes of apples, pears and peaches of Oregon, Michigan, Pennsylvania or even Fresno, but there are nice little niches of persimmon, low chill apple, and even blueberries that thrive in the lower winter chilling environments along the coast and in the south of California.
Here is an example of what might happen to this fruit industry here. A recent, detailed study extrapolate the accumulation of cold periods in Spain over the next 30 years and to the end of the century. This provides growers with important information on the viability of future fruit cultivation in the various Spanish regions, as it allows them to know if there will be the necessary accumulated cold for the fruits to grow correctly or if they should relocate their crops to other areas.
The results obtained show a general reduction in the accumulation of cold in any future period for all the chilling models and scenarios considered. The reduction is especially significant at the end of the century, under the most pessimistic scenario. These results invite us to strongly commit, not only to adapt but also to mitigate climate change, something that would make an important difference. The probable reduction of cold would threaten the viability of some varieties of fruit trees in the near future, especially in regions where there is currently a low accumulation of cold and there are varieties that require a lot of it.
The study can be viewed at:
https://www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/19/1087/2019/
Climate change discussions for California can be found at these websites:
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=30513
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=28175
An intriguing Santa Barbara apple study grower's observations are worth noting: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/Topics/index.cfm?start=1&tagname=apples
By the way the 'Moor Park' apricot is not from Moorpark, CA, but from England and the variety has never done very well in Moorpark (http://www.ngr.ucdavis.edu/treedetails.cfm?v=997).
Winter is the time of year when many people prune their deciduous fruit trees. However, did you know that now is not the right time to prune apricot and cherry trees?
In the past, home gardeners were advised to prune stone fruit trees (cherries, apricots, plums, peaches, and nectarines) after trees lose their leaves and go dormant. However, cherry and apricot trees are more likely to be attacked by certain diseases that can be spread by rain.
Gardeners who prune cherry and apricot trees during winter create wounds that may be invaded by fungal and bacterial canker diseases. Symptoms show up in spring and summer, when infected tree limbs wilt and suddenly die with their leaves still attached, or when bark becomes discolored and limbs produce an amber-colored ooze.
This year, wait to prune apricot and cherry trees until late spring or early summer. For more information about fruit trees, visit The California Backyard Orchard.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Apricot Tree Showing Signs of Brown Rot
by Chantal Guillemin , Master Gardener
Request: My Royal (Blenheim) apricot tree usually produces delicious fruit, but this year almost all had brown discoloration. Globs of golden sap ooze out in many places along branches and the ends of some branches have brown, withered leaves and dead flowers. What kind of disease is affecting my apricot tree? What can I do about it?
Response: Thanks for contacting the Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County about the problems with the brown spots appearing on your apricot fruit.
Expanding dark brown, firm, circular spots on apricots are symptomatic of a very common and serious disease of stone fruit called brown rot. The exudation (oozing) of sticky droplets of gum (sap) from the base of dead flowers and the bark of infected twigs is further indication that Monolinia spp., the brown rot fungus, is present on your apricot tree. Brown rot can also infect other stone fruit such as almond, peach, plum, cherry, nectarine and quince (a pome fruit).
The first symptom of brown rot is the browning and withering of blossoms. These infected blossoms cling to twigs for months. Cankers, which are sunken brown areas, may develop around twigs at the base of infected flowers, causing leaves at tips of twigs to become dark brown and shrivel up.
Gardeners in Contra Costa County can practice the following sanitation measures to decrease the spread of brown rot fungal disease: frequent checking of stone fruit trees for signs of brown rot, timely and appropriate pruning, furrow or drip irrigating versus overhead sprinklers, and planting disease tolerant varieties.
Inspect your apricot and other stone fruit trees nearby often for symptoms of brown rot. Do this during the bloom period, as fruit turn green, and when they begin to ripen. Consider harvesting fruit before it is ripe but once it is soft will lessen the risk of brown rot. After harvest, remove all fruit left on trees or destroy them because they are potential overwintering sites for brown rot. Ensuring that gardening sanitation tasks are performed on a regular basis will go a long way to minimizing the development of spores from mummified fruit hidden beneath weeds and debris on the ground.
As for apricot trees, pruning should never be done during winter dormancy. That's our wet season, and atmospheric moisture carries airborne spores and pathogens. Apricot and cherry trees are particularly susceptible to Eutypa dieback, a disease which causes whole branches to wither away. Do not inflict pruning wounds on apricot trees at this time. Pruning diseased twigs and dead blossoms still clinging to branches of apricot trees should be done after leaves drop but before the first fall rains.
Other stone fruit require the same removal of infected plant tissue but this can be done as soon as these are detected. Burn, bury or bag all diseased branches and leaves. Destruction of these affected parts and the removal of mummies from the tree and from beneath the tree prevents the buildup of brown rot inoculum. This applies to flowering cherry, plum and quince as well. Do not put diseased plant parts in compost. Remove broken or diseased branches. Prune trees from the time they are planted to allow good ventilation in the canopy.
Avoid wetting blossoms, foliage, and fruit during irrigation by using furrow or drip irrigation. As far as prunes are concerned, drying them immediately after harvest kills the brown rot fungus.
Some plant varieties are known to be least susceptible to brown rot. Apricot cultivars Tilton, Harcot, and Harglow are touted to have some brown rot resistance. Royal, Blenheim, Perfection, and Derby Roal are most susceptible to this fungal infection.
If left unmonitored, brown rot fungal infection of apricots and other stone fruit can thwart homeowner's plans for a harvest of healthy fruit. Familiarization with brown rot symptoms and taking action to remove sources of brown rot spores can alleviate the problem of brown rot fungal infection on apricots and other stone fruit.
For additional information, you can also consult:
UCANR publication 7259, Apricots: Calendar of Operations for Home Gardeners;
UCANR publication Pests in Garden and Landscapes – Brown Rot Monilinia spp.;
UCANR publication 3332, Pests of the Garden and Small Farm, pp 144-145;
UCANR publication 3382, California Master Gardener Handbook Chapter 16
UCANR publication 3311, Postharvest Technology of Horticultural Crops;
UCANR publication 3345, Diseases of Temperate Zone Tree Fruit and Nut Crops;
UCANR publication 3485, The Home Orchard
Those not available as free download UC publications are often available at your local branch library or by mail order from UCANR.
Please do not hesitate to contact the MGCC'S Help Desk if you have further questions and/or need recommendations.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (CCG)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I've managed to grow an apricot tree from seed. It's now big enough that it has produced a few apricots in prior years. However, it hasn't produced any fruit now for several years. What is preventing fruiting and what can I do to get fruit?
The apricot tree's lack of fruit production could be due to flower or young fruit damage from weather; it could be due to reduced pollination, also potentially affected by weather; it could be due to tree damage caused by a pest or pests, or it could be a nutrition issue for the tree.
Weather
Fruit trees form their flower buds in the fall. Lack of rain or high winds can damage buds before they blossom. Spring rains or late-spring frosts can also damage or kill buds and blossoms. Apricots in general perform best in climates with dry spring weather. This year we had both late frosts and spring rains in parts of the County. Last year we also had significant spring rains, and prior to that several dry years in succession. So, weather could certainly have had a negative impact on the fruit production of your apricot tree for the past several years.
Reduced Pollination
Pollination issues could also have played a role. Fruit production depends on pollination, which is the transfer of pollen from the male part (anther) of a flower to the female part (pistil) of the same or another flower usually of the same species. Apricots are self-fruitful, meaning that they may be pollinated by pollen from another flower on the same tree, or in the case of apricots, by pollen from the same flower. The transfer of pollen from one variety to a different variety of the same type of tree is called cross- pollination. Although not required, cross-pollination does improve the number of fruit that form on apricots. Pollinators, such as bees, are usually responsible for apricot pollination.
This link to a Penn State University extension website
https://extension.psu.edu/pollination-requirements-for-various-fruits-and-nuts
identifies several factors can affect pollination:
Temperatures below 55-60°F reduce bee activity
Windy and rainy weather can slow bee activity
Presence of other flowers -- the fruit plants generally are poor nectar producers and bees will naturally seek out the best nectar producing flowers
Most insecticides will reduce bee activity -- therefore do not spray them during bloom
Pests affecting apricot trees
Apricots are susceptible to a variety of pests, listed at this link:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/apricots.html
These include sucking and boring insects and other invertebrates, and bacterial and fungus diseases. If, after reading the descriptions, you suspect that you have any of these issues, there are controls suggested at the same link and sub-links.
Cultural care
The best prevention is good cultural care. Maintaining a good fertilization program can keep your tree vigorous and help prevent infections. Adequate irrigation will help as well.
http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Apricot_Prunus_armeniaca_L/
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apricotfert.html
http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/The_Big_Picture/Irrigation/
With respect to pruning your tree, apricot trees should be pruned in late summer, since they are susceptible to a fungus infection if pruned during wet weather. Because of this, they should be pruned in August -- after fruit production is complete, and early enough to allow time for pruning wounds to close prior to the beginning of winter rains. Information on pruning apricots can be found at this link.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apripruning.html
I hope that this information is helpful. If you have any questions about the material in these links, or anything else, please contact us again.
Good luck with your tree!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (MCW)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer our gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523, although we will be moving this spring. We will notify you if/when that occurs. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)