- Author: Mark Bolda
Here is another example of orange rust, which are caused by two fungi, Arthuriomyces and Gymnoconia, the two of which are distinguished by the shape of their spores and life cycle length. To re-iterate, growth of orange rust is strictly on blackberry and is favored by cooler temperatures and high humidity, but I have yet to see an infection of this rust explode across the landscape no matter what the conditions are. Instead, several plants around a single locus will show infection at one time and the advance of the disease, if not addressed, is measured in years rather than days or weeks.
Orange rust is distinguished by the intensity of its orange color and the sharp outlines of the infected area. Usually one can see the spores by rubbing or brushing up against the leaves.
Probably the most important point about managing orange rust in the field is that it is systemic and cannot be controlled by any fungicide we have labeled in blackberries. Leaving plants alone or trying to spray one’s way out of it will end in tears. Orange rust MUST be removed by hand, that is to say the whole infected plant dug out with a shovel. It is best to remove plants directly adjacent to the infected area as well, since they are quite likely infected but not yet showing the symptoms. Take care to remove the whole plant, including the roots down to at least 12 inches. Plants should be bagged at the point of removal and disposed of properly. Personnel removing the plants should use clothing which can be disposed of or washed quite soon after working with the infected plants so as not to continue to spread spores across the blackberry field over the course of the remaining workday.
One last point, graphically illustrated in the last picture, is that groundsel in blackberry fields gets a type of rust also, but this is not the same rust the orange rust occurring on blackberry and is rather a species of Puccinia. Rusts tend to pretty specific to their hosts, so removing groundsel with the goal of reducing the rust pressure on blackberries will not work.
Yet another hat tip to the PCA and grower for letting me know about this one.
I would have left the roots in fact did and now must figure it out.
Can effected be burned?
To the extent that you have to remove the roots to burn them, that would be ok. If you are thinking that just burning off the tops will be sufficient, it won't. Everything has to go with this rust, it is systemic.
Mark
How is this transmitted? I literally had none last year. This year one patch has 50% loss and another 25%. Can I at least wait on the roots until fall?
How far around effected plants do I need to clear? Can I just clear just touching for now? May be looking at total loss in one area and 50% the other. Again, this is first year seen.
On one hand disheartening, but at least helps make a path for picking.
Thank you very much! I have terminal brain disease. Trying to take best care of land I can for daughters (and God). Hard to imagine if I wasn't here now. Know wouldn't matter to me, but this is their inheritance. (And, so many love the fruit:-) .)
All around here are curious where this came from, and I wonder why 2 effected with 1 between not.
BTW, not cool & damp here. Last year was more wet,and for long period. Great for production! Never picked so much & so long. Temperatures are relative. All growing wild. Truly gift from the God,YHWH.
If this is spread by dust, I am sunk. Still have pollinating insects and am sure some has to get on them. Could be bad for whole area!
Thanks again for any & all help!
Mark
Before digging it all up you want to be sure that this is indeed orange rust and something like leaf and stem rust, which can be controlled by fungicides. What are the varieties of blackberries you have there?