There is a bit of ancient Rome and a taste of old Egypt at the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden at the Patrick Ranch. Butte County MGs are practicing espaliering, the early horticultural art of training and pruning a tree or shrub to grow flat against a support. Espaliering is believed to have been practiced by the early Romans, and hieroglyphs of espaliered fig trees have been found in Egyptian tombs from as long ago as 1400 BCE. In the Middle Ages, Europeans refined espaliering into an art, and designs became increasingly decorative and elaborate.
The word “espalier” is French, but it comes from the Italian spalliera, meaning “something to rest the shoulder (spalla) against.” Eventually, it came to mean both the practice of training and shaping plants to a frame, and the plants themselves.
An Espalier Garden Grows in Chico
In late spring 2015, a small group of Butte County Master Gardeners proposed an Espalier Garden for the educational gardens being developed by the Master Gardeners at Patrick Ranch. They created plans to showcase fruit trees and to display different patterns of espaliering. From there, they embarked on the basic steps of espaliering: site selection, espalier structure design, tree variety selection, planting technique, espalier pattern choices, and methods of pruning and training. The trees were planted in Spring 2016.
Espalier Structure Design: Because the Espalier Garden is a teaching tool, the Master Gardeners built sturdy, long lasting espalier supports. The structure consists of pressure-treated 4 x 4 posts with eyehooks supporting wire cable that can periodically be tightened. The cable is strung horizontally at one-foot intervals, although intervals of up to two feet are also common. The home gardener could use a length of hog/cattle wire instead of cable.
Tree / Vine Variety Selection: Certain types of trees adapt better to this practice than others, but almost any woody plant can be trained to grow along a flat plane. Grapevines are particularly adaptable to espaliering. Fig and apple trees are also good choices.
Fruit tree varieties should be self-pollinating, unless several trees of the same variety are planted in proximity. Select bare root trees that are not fully branched or budded out, as once planted, they are cut back to a single cane (if they are already branching, prune to leave branch stubs with two buds to make sure you get re-growth at each node). The Master Gardeners have planted Tiger Fig, Lapins Cherry, Santa Rosa Plum, Pluot, Fuji Apple, Arkansas Black Spur Apple, Plumcot/Aprium, Brown Turkey Fig, Warren Plum, and North Star Cherry in their Espalier Garden.
Espalier Pattern Choices: There are many designs to choose from, ranging from traditional formal patterns developed over hundreds of years, to modern informal designs. Among the most common are V-Shaped; Candelabra; Belgian Fence; Cordon (horizontal or double vertical); and Palmette or Fan. The MGs chose for their Espalier Garden two types of candelabras, a fan, a horizontal cordon, a Belgian Fence, and the elegant Crossover pattern.
Pruning and Training to Espalier: Expect to engage in heavy pruning and training for the first one to three years. After five to seven years, the tree will retain its shape even if the support structure deteriorates or is removed. Any major pruning is generally accomplished either while the plant is dormant, or during the proper season for pruning that species. Bending and tying limbs that remain in the design is done during the summer season as growth progresses, when shoots are most flexible. The Master Gardeners use rubber anchor bands to tie the limbs and shoots to their supports. Whatever you use, ties should be loose enough that water and nutrients can move through the phloem.
The ten fruit trees selected and planted by the Master Gardeners are in their eighth year of espalier training. You can view the developing espaliers at the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch, Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 3 pm.
For more information on espalier training, a good reference work is Pruning and Training published by the American Horticultural Society.
Attend our Espalier workshop on November 8. For descriptions of this and all the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required; registration for all November workshops opens on October 1st.
Come to our Plant Sale on Saturday, September 30, 9 am till noon at our Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch, 10381 Midway, Durham. For more information including a list of the plants that will be available visit our Plant Sale webpage. Two free workshops (no registration required) will be offered during the plant sale: No-Fail Native Plants at 10 am, and Raised Garden/Vegetable Beds at 10:30.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
If you've been wanting to grow your own blueberries, fall is a good time to plant a blueberry bush (or two, or three) in our climate. Many hybrid Southern highbush blueberry varieties have been adapted for the hot summers and low winter chilling seasons of our milder Valley climate, and will produce fruit from April through mid-July.
Like azaleas, blueberries belong to the family Ericaceae, and prefer acid soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Soil sulfur can be worked into the soil six to twelve months before planting, and side-dressed as needed in subsequent years. Peat moss too can be used to adjust acid levels. Soil testing kits are available at local nurseries and, used yearly, can spot when soil corrections are needed.
Most blueberries are deciduous shrubs that grow 4 to 6 ft. tall. Plants can be spaced 3 ft. apart for an informal hedge, or 4-5 ft. apart for individual shrubs. Place year-old blueberry plants in a sunny location. Two plants per person is advised, and some for the birds, unless you net your bushes. Because their shallow roots are 3-4 ft. wide, the soil should be dug this wide and at least 1-2 ft. deep. Amended soil in raised beds also works well.
Lightly roughen up the outside surface of a root-bound plant. Set the soil line of the trunk slightly above soil level to prevent settling. Cover soil with 4-6 inches of mulch to conserve moisture, prevent weeds, and add organic matter. Bark mulch (not cedar), pine needles, acid compost, and sawdust all work well.
Blueberries' shallow, fibrous roots need adequate drainage. Irrigate with soaker hoses, mini-sprinklers, or drip lines. Water is critical from berry development through harvest, also during bud formation in July and August. The amount of water will depend on soil type, drainage, and weather; too much water can result in root rot. For these reasons, frequent testing of soil moisture is recommended.
Take care to prevent over fertilizing. When needed, usually in early and late spring, gently rake back mulch and spread fertilizer on top of soil. Replace mulch and water well. Use a 10-10-10 mix or something similar containing ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate, both of which are acid-forming. Sprinkle one and one-half tablespoons within 12-18 inches of each plant four weeks after planting. Double fertilizer amounts yearly up to a maximum of five tablespoons per plant.
It takes at least three years for a blueberry plant to become established and healthy. Remove all blossoms in the first few years to prevent small berries and spindly growth. Blueberry plants have a naturally bushy form, but the number of branches should be limited to the age of the plant, up to a maximum of six to eight branches for old bushes. Yearly remove one to two branches so that none are over four to six years old.
Southern highbush varieties include the early-ripening Misty, O'Neal and Jubilee; the early to mid-season Sharpblue; and the midseason varieties Southmoon and Sunshine Blue. For more information, see Blueberries in the UC California Garden Web.
Upcoming Berry Workshop. For more information on planting and caring for blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries, attend the Master Gardener workshop by our berry expert in Paradise on October 20. For descriptions of this and all the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Butte County has a Mediterranean climate where drought conditions occur naturally from May to October. A wide variety of succulent plants have become popular across the country in recent years, and our local gardeners are no exception. Not only are succulents drought tolerant, they grow almost anywhere. They require little care and only small amounts of soil to thrive. They are bold and colorful. Some are able to take short dry freezes and hot sun, although most need some filtered shade in the heat of the Sacramento Valley.
Offsets are small plants that grow at the base of the main specimen. Aloe, Echeveria, and Sempervivum (hens and chicks) all produce offsets. To propagate more plants from a mature offset-producing specimen, follow these steps:
1) Remove offsets with a sharp clipper, or by twisting gently.
2) Be careful to avoid damaging any roots that have already emerged.
3) Place the offsets into cactus mix or a combination of sand and perlite.
4) Spray water directly, but gently and sparingly, on the offset daily. Do not soak the soil.
5) Wait three to four weeks for strong roots to develop.
1) Choose a leaf in good health.
2) Pull the leaf off neatly. Leaves that drop from the plant can be used if they are healthy and plump. If you use clippers be sure the end of the leaf is not cut off.
3) Let the leaf end dry for 1-3 days. Do not water. This allows the wound to seal and keeps pathogens out during the rooting process.
4) Once the leaf ends are dry, place the leaves on top of dry cactus soil. Do not bury or semi-bury them into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. You can also create a rooting medium by mixing together a 50/50 combination of compost and fine pumice or grit.
5) Spray with water sparingly every one to two days for four to six weeks. Do not soak.
6) After a few weeks you will see pink roots at the ends of the leaves and then tiny baby plants will begin to grow.
7) Once small plants have developed, separate them out and plant them in well-draining cactus soil, then water well once a week.
All succulents can be propagated by division or stem cuttings, but it is more efficient to divide or stem cut Aeonium, Sedum, Cotyledons and Sansevieria, as follows:
1) For Aeonium, cut the rosette from the stem. For Sansevieria, cut a leaf in sections marking which way is down. For Sedum and Cotyledon, cut sections of the plants with leaves attached.
2) Let all the parts dry out and create a callous where they have been cut.
3) Once they are dry, put the sections into cactus soil.
4) Spray on top of the cuttings regularly but sparingly. Do not soak.
5) They are rooted when you see new growth.
Interested in propagating other kinds of plants as well? Attend the Master Gardener workshop on Propagation, Monday October 9in Paradise. For descriptions of this and all the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
Want some plants propagated by Master Gardeners? Come to our Plant Sale on Saturday, September 30, 9 am till noon at our Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch, 10381 Midway, Durham. For more information, and a partial list of the plants that will be available, visit our Plant Sale webpage.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Many backyard gardeners are familiar with composting, a process which recycles yard trimmings along with vegetable and fruit scraps from the kitchen. Compost, a humus-like soil, results from the biological breakdown that occurs from microbial decomposition of organic material. Composting enriches soil, reduces waste in landfills, and conserves water.
To create compost, oxygen and water should also be balanced (50 percent moisture plus 50 percent oxygen). It is important to consider the moisture content of added material such as food scraps and freshly cut grass prior to adding water. Compost should be about as moist as a wrung-out sponge, moist to the touch but not yielding liquid when squeezed. Turning the compost pile aerates it by incorporating oxygen while mixing the materials. Some compost bins available commercially are designed to turn, eliminating the need to building the pile in layers (and also eliminating the need for a hay fork). Bear in mind that high summer temperatures will dry the pile more rapidly.
The length of time for composting depends on several factors: the density and size of the materials, the carbon and nitrogen content, moisture content, aeration, and volume. If you continue to add materials to your compost pile or bin the process will take longer. Turning the pile or bin on a regular basis is the key to having compost ready for your gardening needs. Various sources state that composting can take as little as two weeks and as long as two years. Finished compost is a dark brown, easily crumbled material with a musty smell. The original volume of the compost material is significantly reduced, as is the temperature. The compost now is ready to be used. It can be screened through wire mesh to sift out any larger pieces that have not decomposed.
Once the compost is ready it may be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and other plants. Compost will help suppress weeds while at the same time increasing moisture retention. It may also be incorporated into the soil to improve soil quality. The nutrients in compost are slowly released into the soil and are more easily available to your plants. Once you have started using your own compost you will be convinced that this method of recycling is beneficial on many levels.
For further information, see Pamela M. Geisel and Donna C. Seaver's UC Publication 8367, Composting Is Good for Your Garden and the Environment (PDF).
To learn more about different methods and techniques for making compost, join our Master Gardener workshop on Composting, October 27. For descriptions of this and all the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
People new to gardening often ask what tools are needed to maintain their gardens. It's easy to become overwhelmed by the scope and variety of garden tools available in stores, online, and in garden catalogues. Even seasoned gardeners may wonder which tools are really necessary to help make their garden tasks easier and their gardens more productive. Since there are as many types of gardens as there are gardeners, there is no magic list of essential garden tools. But all gardeners need quality tools that will perform well for many years.
Deciduous trees and shrubs dictate the need for a leaf rake. The flexible metal or plastic bristles of a leaf rake allow the removal of debris like leaves and twigs without overly disturbing the soil. Leaf rakes have a large, fan-like head of tines and come in a variety of head sizes with long or short handles. Adjustable leaf rakes with telescopic handles that can be lengthened and shortened are a useful option for those with little storage space.
A digging shovel is a staple for garden maintenance. The curved blade shovel is used for many heavy-duty jobs such as digging holes for planting trees and shrubs, turning over compacted soil in beds, and moving soil and organic compost from one area to another. They can be used to dig trenches, cut sod, and create sharp edges to outline a planting area. A curved blade digging shovel is truly the garden workhorse.
Besides the basic tools used to maintain the landscape around your home, there are other tools that are especially useful for particular garden jobs. Whether you are growing flowers or vegetables, working in raised or flat beds, planting in containers, or growing houseplants indoors, adding to your basic tool inventory can save time and help to prevent sore muscles. The following are some tool suggestions for specific garden types.
- Large vegetable garden. Long-handled tools, particularly a spade (longer and narrower than a digging shovel) and a hoe, are kind to the back and help get chores done in a shorter amount of time. Spades are not only good for digging and turning over the soil but aerate it as well. There are many types of hoes, and gardeners often have several favorites, alternating between them depending upon garden chores. Hoes are a foe to weeds and a much better garden defense than chemicals. Wheelbarrows and garden carts are also useful in a large vegetable garden.
- Raised Bed Garden. With beds usually no wider than four feet, this type of garden is becoming popular because of its ease of maintenance and the ability to grow more in a smaller space. A garden fork will turn the soil, aerate, and mix nutrients into the soil. A trowel will handle planting needs. A garden knife (also called a hori-hori knife) has one multipurpose steel blade useful for weeding and digging and can also be used for other garden tasks like measuring planting depths and cutting open bags. A hand plow and cultivator hoe are also helpful in raised bed gardening.
- Flower garden. A rabbiting spade and edger can make life easier in the flower garden. A rabbiting spade is narrow-headed and ideal for placing plants in containers and moving plants and shrubs without damaging the plants nearby. An edger will define flower beds. Don't forget a good quality garden hose and nozzle.
- Container gardens and house plants. Whether in the garden or in the house, plants in containers will benefit from a soil scoop. Transferring soil from the bag to the container with a scoop avoids a potentially messy cleanup. A garden knife is also a good addition, as it can be used in weeding and also for performing other tasks. Misters and watering cans keep plants hydrated and happy.
Rob Fanno from Fanno Saw Works will discuss garden tool selection, care, and maintenance at a Master Gardener Workshop on October 3, 2023. For descriptions of this and all the other workshops in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
