If you are planning to put some new plants in the ground now so they will be established when spring comes around, consider planting a hedgerow. In urban and suburban areas, fences or hedges are typically used to define property lines, block unsightly views, provide privacy screening, and create windbreaks. However, hedgerows are becoming a popular alternative for these landscape duties. While a hedge is made up of a single plant species placed in a tightly spaced row, a hedgerow is a broad bed planted with a variety of trees, shrubs and forbs (herbaceous flowering plants).
Urban and suburban landowners can reap these benefits by planting smaller trees and large shrubs to establish mini-hedgerows instead of fences or hedges. A scaled-down hedgerow will still attract pollinators, beneficial insects and birds. Hedgerows can also create corridors between wild spaces, allowing wildlife to more safely move through neighborhoods. As landscape designer Rebecca Lindenmeyr says, “Hedgerows can provide a slice of wild on the outskirts of a landscape design.”
If you decide to create a hedgerow, try to choose plants with a variety of heights. Different types of wildlife are adapted to living at different levels above the ground. Also, generally speaking, wider is better when it comes to hedgerows. The wider the planting area, the more room there is for a greater diversity of plants. The greater the diversity of plants in a hedgerow, the more likely it is that wildlife will find a suitable habitat there. Look for plants that provide food for wildlife. Selecting a variety plants that produce flowers, fruit, nuts, seeds, or nectar at different times of the year increases your chances of providing food for the greatest diversity of wildlife species.
Native plants are a logical choice for use in hedgerows. They are familiar sources of food and shelter for local wildlife species, and are well adapted to the local climate and soils. Large native shrubs that are suitable for residential hedgerows in our area include California redbud, toyon, many species of Ceanothus and manzanita, coffeeberry, desert willow and coyote brush. California bush anemone, Cleveland and white sage and buckwheat are more moderately-sized natives that can also be useful in hedgerows. Smaller native perennials include deer grass, California fuchsia, milkweed and penstemon. An added bonus is that, once established, all of these natives are at least moderately “deer resistant.” It is important to recognize, however, that if they are hungry enough deer will eat virtually anything.
For further information on residential hedgerows:
Hedgerows and Integrated Pest Management
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
There are several advantages to planting bare-root trees: they are usually less expensive, easier for gardeners to transport, and they will grow their roots entirely into native soil (rather than having to transition from potting mix into dissimilar native soil). Also, the ideal time to plant bare-root trees is in the winter, when you have a break from the demands of other garden chores.
Once the planting site has been prepared, it's time to select the tree. Trees with a trunk diameter between one-half and five-eighths of an inch usually become established faster than larger or smaller stock. If the root mass is visible, be sure it is well balanced, not “one-sided.” Remove any dead or damaged roots before planting. It is best to plant bare-root trees immediately after bringing them home, but if this is not possible, the roots should be covered with sawdust or compost and kept moist until planting.
Clear an area about 3 feet wide around the tree, eliminating weeds and grasses to keep them from competing with the tree for water and nutrients. To prevent future weed growth and conserve moisture, a layer of mulch 3 to 6 inches thick can be placed around the tree. However, to avoid crown rot, keep the mulch several inches away from the tree trunk. As a final step, remove the top of the tree by pruning back to a single trunk approximately 24 inches tall and paint the bark of the entire tree trunk with white interior latex paint diluted with water (two parts water to one part paint) as a whitewash to reflect excess heat. This prevents sunburn and the resulting invasion of wood-boring insects that can stunt or kill the new tree.
Autumn has finally arrived! We have shorter cooler days, and the leaves are turning brilliant Fall colors. Gardeners with some foresight and planning can use this time of year to plant bulbs for a riot of Spring flowers. With their potential for promised beauty, bulbs are like hidden jewels waiting to rise up when warm weather returns. The very act of planting Fall bulbs demonstrates one's faith in nature's cycles, where life begins anew when, eventually, Spring returns.
Botanically, these perennial plants are geophytes, adapted to store their nutrients and energy in underground storage structures. Tulips and daffodils are “true” bulbs (they have fleshy layers surrounding a central bud) and are perhaps the most commonly known. But plants that store their energy and nutrients in corms (bulbs that do not have layers) and in rhizomes (which have long, narrow underground stems that develop parallel to the soil surface) are also geophytes. All geophytes are adapted to produce new growth from these storage structures after periods of dormancy or environmental stress, such as drought or chilling.
Today, in addition to tulips and daffodils, bulbs often found for sale include alliums, fritillaries, snowdrops (Galanthus), snowflakes (Leucojum), grape hyacinths, and anemones. Commonly planted corms include crocuses and Dutch irises. Rhizomatous plants that can be planted in the Fall include peonies (typically planted as bare-root divisions), coral bells (heuchera), and bearded irises.
There are some basic rules to ensuring success with bulbs:
1) Plant at the correct depth, which is often listed on the bag they have come in.
2) Ensure they are planted with the growing tips pointing up and the roots heading downwards.
3) Plant in fast-draining soil, because most bulbs are susceptible to rot if they become water-logged.
4) Amend the planting soil with a mix of compost and, if planting in heavy clay, add some grit.
5) Place a layer of mulch over the area of newly-planted bulbs.
6) If necessary, secure chicken wire or plastic netting on top to keep pesky squirrels from digging the bulbs up. Small pieces of plastic fence netting secured over a planted container is often enough to discourage squirrels. You can adjust the netting in the Spring when new growth emerges. Doing the same in a yard is also possible, but more challenging.
Some gardeners go to elaborate lengths to keep their planted bulbs safe. Judging by the many beautiful displays of daffodils and other bulbs in local gardens each Spring, most bulbs do seem to survive, coming back year after year as “heralds of Spring”.
Mixing in a balanced fertilizer when planting can be beneficial, but there is no real scientific evidence that adding extra potassium to the planting holes will promote better blooms.
A fun planting technique is to toss out a handful of bulbs and plant them where they Fall. This approximates how these plants grow together in more natural settings. You can find special bulb planting tools to help you with digging the holes, often making the work much easier.
Once bulbs have finished blooming in Spring, wait until the leaves have completely dried before removing them. This allows the plant to make the nutrients it needs to store again for the following year's bloom. Some gardeners like to plant fast-growing annuals over their bulbs, or plant bulbs among perennials with Spring growth that will hide the drying bulb leaves and flower stalks.
Blue-eyed or yellow-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium), which grows from a corm, is easy to cultivate and establishes quickly, producing lovely violet-blue or yellow star-shaped flowers atop flowering stems. They are a member of the iris family and will readily spread if given some moisture.
Native bulbs are well-adapted to California's climate and growing regions and are especially beautiful when used in gardens and wildflower meadows that feature native plants.
The main requirements for growing bulbs, corms, and rhizomes include a cool, wet winter with little hard frost, well-drained soil, fairly deep planting and, most critically, total dryness all summer to avoid rotting. Native plant gardeners have had luck growing them in containers as well as the ground but some of these might need several growing seasons before you see your first blooms. If you are planting Fall bulbs to begin with, then you are already a patient gardener!
Planting Fall bulbs isn't simply a garden task, it's a gesture of hope and testament to nature's resilience. You are investing in the beauty of the future. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a novice with a newfound passion for these plants, this simple act of tucking them into the earth, hidden away until they burst forth in Spring, is a connection to nature's cycles of life and renewal.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Each year, the U.S. throws away between 30% and 40% of the food produced for human consumption (over $161 billion worth). Roughly 20% of the total volume of waste sent to landfills is food. If you have tended a vegetable garden, then you are probably well aware of the amount of water, labor and money that is required to produce your food. And, while it is certainly commendable to compost your food and plant scraps, reducing the waste is even better. All too often, vegetable plants are harvested for just one of their many plant parts- whether it be the leaves (e.g. lettuce), the roots (e.g. carrots), the flowers (e.g. broccoli), or the seeds (e.g. beans). But many plants have more than one edible plant part. Grape vines and beetroots are perhaps the best-known examples of such multi-use plants, as the leaves of both are useful edibles.
Often times, a recipe will leave you with a heaping pile of scraps. And while you can continually freeze these scraps until you have enough to make a rich broth, this isn't the only option. Apple peels and cores can be simmered with water in order to create home-made pectin. If you are stumped as to how to use the tough ribs of Swiss chard, try making a gratin, or steam and puree the ribs with lemon and tahini for a refreshing middle-eastern style hummus. For a richer snack, leftover potato peels can be fried in bacon grease.
Many of the flowers you may find in your garden are edible. Pansies, marigolds (especially Tagetes tenuifolia), roses, anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), tuberous begonias, and pineapple guava flowers all make beautiful and tasty complements to salads, ice cubes, and butter. Even the pesky dandelions in your yard can be of value: both the leaves and flowers can be eaten raw or cooked (or, for a true culinary adventure, try making dandelion wine!). Elderflowers (the flowers of elderberries) can also be used to make wine, as well as infused vinegars and liqueurs.
Both the leaves and flowers of nasturtiums add a peppery punch to any dish, but perhaps the most impressive use of the nasturtium is the pickling of young seeds in order to make “poor man's capers.”
While many plants have multiple edible parts, do keep in mind that not every part of every plant is edible. Always consult a reliable source before eating anything unknown. And remember, when life gives you lemons… don't throw away the peel!
Learn more about the many alternative uses of plants, specifically plants harvested in the wild, by attending the Master Gardeners' workshop on Wild Crafting (Monday, November 20), the final workshop in the Master Gardeners' Fall Workshop Series. For more information, and to register, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
Do you have an undeveloped garden area you'd like to turn into a landscape that grows native plants and supplies habitat and food for pollinators? Perhaps you'd like to do most of the work yourself, but have no idea where to start? There is lots of information available about planting for pollinators, selecting appropriate native and water-wise plants, and creating a garden space that reflects one's personal style, but it is easy to get overwhelmed and miss the bigger picture.
Once the area is defined, designers can suggest plants that fit your growing zone, water needs and other requirements, your goals for using (or viewing) the space over time as the plants grow, and help you incorporate your “wish list” of favorite plants and/or plants with sentimental associations. For most people, this is where the fun really begins. Visiting nurseries and demonstration gardens, walking around neighborhoods, greenbelts and botanical gardens, even just scrolling through online resources, can inspire and inform.
In addition to starting with plants from nurseries or other sources, consider sowing seeds. There are many benefits to sowing seeds yourself. Seeds for annual flowering plants can provide quick color and interest and attract pollinating flower-visitors the first spring. And seeds are generally inexpensive, easy to start, and, in many cases, will self-sow year after year. Once they become established, you should be able to move some of the plants you've initially grown from seed to other parts of the garden.
Be aware that there can be some difficulties encountered when planting seeds, but none of the potential pitfalls are insurmountable. If the rains don't come often enough, your seeds may need supplemental water to get them started. Do not plant seeds too deeply or not deeply enough (follow packet instructions carefully). Sometimes it is hard to tell a seedling you want from a weed you don't: you can learn to identify your seedlings by sowing some in a pot, labeling them and then comparing them to your garden seedlings as they grow (don't forget to keep these potted seedlings moist as well).
Most flowering plants sown or planted in fall will bloom March through July, giving you beauty and color while also attracting pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
When you are planting an area for more than interest or color but also as habitat, consider plants that produce berries or fruits as well as flowers, and plants that will bloom throughout the growing season and into fall. If you are including trees and shrubs in your plan, consider their location in respect to structures and the eventual shade they will provide as they grow taller and wider, and the upkeep they may require (like pruning or cutting to the ground after bloom time). Here again is where a garden designer can give you guidance from their extensive experience with suitable plants.
Resources:
Climate Appropriate Plants for the Northern California Landscape
CalScape, a website by the California Native Plant Socieity
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
