Our rainy spring weather has been great for our gardens – but may also have encouraged some unwelcome garden visitors, including snails and slugs.
To control snails, slugs and other pests, the University of California recommends that homeowners follow the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) process. IPM is a strategy that focuses on long-term prevention of pests by utilizing cultural, biological, mechanical and physical controls. With IPM, pesticides (chemical control) are used only as a last resort, and when pesticides are used, they are applied in ways that minimize harm to nontarget organisms, humans, pets, and the environment.
Mechanical or physical controls kill a pest directly or block a pest from an area experiencing damage. In the case of snails and slugs, handpicking is an effective mechanical control if it is done on a regular basis. They can be searched out after dark with a flashlight and then either crushed in place or picked up with rubber gloves. Once they have been picked up, they can be placed in a bag and thrown away in the trash, or placed in a bucket of soapy water and disposed of in a compost pile after they are dead. Alternatively, if you are lucky enough to know someone with pet turtles, you can give your snails and slugs to them (as long as they are healthy) -- most turtle owners are happy to receive these pests, which add protein to the turtle diet. Those with backyard chickens may be similarly appreciative, as chickens, too, eat snails.
Copper flashing or copper foil can be used as a physical barrier for slugs and snails. It is believed that copper is an effective barrier because it reacts with the slime of these pests, causing a disruption in their nervous system that is similar to an electric shock. These barriers should be at least four inches wide with the bottom buried in the soil to prevent slugs from crawling under them. Dry ashes or other abrasives such as diatomaceous earth can also be used as barriers for slugs and snails. Such abrasives should be piled about one inch high and 3 inches wide to be effective. However, these materials lose their deterrent value if they become damp, making them not very useful in most garden situations. Another drawback of wood ashes is that they are quite alkaline and can have a detrimental effect on soil pH.
Slug and snail baits can be applied as a last resort, but are most effective if used in conjunction with the IPM methods described above. There are other effective baits, but baits containing iron phosphate are the only ones that are safe for children, domestic animals, birds, fish and other wildlife. Iron phosphate baits are sold under many trade names including Sluggo and Escar-Go. The bait should be placed in moist areas that snails or slugs are likely to frequent. Timing is also important. If the weather is very hot, dry, or cold, baiting will have a limited effectiveness because slugs and snails are least active during these times. Take advantage of snail and slug habits by irrigating before baiting and scattering the bait in the late afternoon or evening.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
It's that time of the year again – Ant Season!
While it is not realistic to eradicate all ants from your backyard, you can effectively reduce the number of ants entering your home by following a 3-Step integrated approach as follows:
1) Identifying the location where the ants are getting into the house. Inspect baseboards, floors, electrical outlets, vents, pipes, drains and walls for any entryways and seal them off (caulk is good for this). Destroy any nesting sites found close to the house. Cut back trees, shrubs or wooded material touching the house and clear away mulch or debris that is next to the house.
2) Clean up food and water sources in the home. All sources of “attractive” food should be removed or securely sealed. Use soapy water to kill ants and eliminate their trails.
Moderate (trails of hundreds of ants) and Severe (several hundred to thousands of ants continue to invade for weeks or months). Supplement steps 1 and 2 above with the addition of bait stations as follows:
3) Install bait dispensers around the outside of the house (UC Researchers have had success using bait dispensers such as KM AntPro Liquid Bait Dispenser). Baits are more effective and less toxic than traditional pesticide treatments for ants. Baits are insecticides mixed with materials that attract worker ants. The advantage of a bait station over an insecticide spray is that the spray only kills the worker ant while the bait station allows worker ants to take the bait back to the colony to feed and kill the colony ants, including the queen ant. When all the queens die, the colony is destroyed. Continue to refill dispensers regularly with liquid borate-based bait until the ant problem ceases. It is critical that you select the right bait/attractant for Argentine ants (liquid baits with 1% or less borate are suggested). Install at least one dispenser on each side of the house, next to structures where ants are trailing (but at least 5 ft. from any nest). Keep ant bait stations out of direct sunlight.
For more information on dealing with the various pests that plague your home and garden, attend the workshop on Integrated Pest Management (IPM) May 17, at the Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch. This workshop is part of the Master Gardeners' 2024 Spring Workshop Series. For information about all the workshops, and to register, visit our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Looking for a drought tolerant plant? Euphorbias are one of the most dramatic garden plants, and they happen to do well in our ongoing conditions of drought. The genus is expansive and includes 2000 species of herbaceous perennials, annuals and biennials, as well as evergreen and deciduous shrubs. You might think you are unfamiliar with this plant family, but one tender (and colorful) variety of euphorbia is customarily purchased during the holiday season: the Poinsettia. The poinsettia's red leaves surround a “flower” called a cyathium, which is really a structure that consists of fused bracts that form a cup around the (actual) tiny flowers.
Euphorbia characias is perhaps the most commonly seen euphorbia in our area. The upright stems of this Mediterranean native are crowded with narrow blue-green leaves that form a dome-shaped bush four feet high & wide. Chartreuse or lime green flowers in dense, round to cylindrical clusters appear in late winter and early spring. Characias is very drought resistant and thrives in part to full sun.
Classified as an Evergreen Spurge, the sub-species “Tasmanian Tiger” grows three feet wide and high with bow-tie like flower bracts edged in white. The conical flower heads appear in spring. Prune spent flower heads and stems down to the base of the plant—new ones will form during the summer. This euphorbia provides interest all four seasons in our mild climate.
Euphorbia “Polychroma” is another showy variety that looks especially lovely alongside spring-blooming tulips and other bulbs. It is also known as cushion spurge. Its bright golden flowers sit atop cushion-shaped light green leaves. This versatile plant is useful in edgings, rock gardens and containers. And autumn brings an extra treat: red foliage color. Trim this plant back hard to four inches in early summer to maintain a bushy, compact size.
If your garden is plagued by deer and rabbits, they will avoid euphorbias because the stems of these plants contain milky white sap that can be an irritant to the skin or toxic if ingested. For this reason, it is a good idea to handle euphorbias with gloves to avoid getting the sap on your skin or in your eyes. The sap has a latex base, so it is also good practice to clean your pruners after using them on euphorbias, to help maintain a sharp blade.
Euphorbias make unusually attractive cut flowers that can be incorporated in floral arrangements. To prevent the sap from bleeding, dip the stems in boiling water or seal the stems by holding a flame to them for a few seconds before adding them to an arrangement.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
The current emphasis on water-wise gardening has created an interest in succulents. All succulents are able to store water and food in their leaves, stems and roots. These stored nutrients can be released when needed. This makes them drought tolerant. Succulents require good drainage, deep but intermittent water, bright light, and good air circulation. The soil should be open and airy with low organic matter.
Because many purchased succulents are unmarked, while others are given by friends as cuttings, it can be difficult to know the genus of a particular plant. This is especially the case because the genera of Echeveria, Sempervivum, and Graptopetalum are similar in appearance. However, careful observation will aid in identifying succulents. First, look to see if the succulent is spiky or chubby, and whether it forms rosettes. What is the shape of the leaves? Look at size, texture, and color. Notice if offsets hang from the edges of a rosette, or attach to its center.
Sempervivums are native to Europe. Their value as talismans is reflected in their name semper (always) and vivus (living). This reputation comes from their ability to survive in freezing weather while their leaves stay green. Sempervivums are commonly called Houseleeks or Hen and Chickens. Open rosettes range from one to five inches across and form clumps to two feet or wider. The leaves of Sempervivum are narrower than those of Echeveria, they have pointy tips, andaregray-green to red-brown in color. Small pink, red, or orange star-shaped flowers arise on fleshy stems to 10 inches tall. These succulents reproduce from offsets attached to a stolon (a stem that can take root).The stolon breaks easily, allowing the tiny offsets to roll away before forming roots.
Graptopetalum are native to South America. These succulents are so closely related to Echeveria that they hybridize to form the intergeneric hybrid x Graptoveria. The rosettes are two to five inches in diameter and have gently pointed chubby leaves, noticeably thicker than those of Echeveria. The rosettes grow at the tips of ever-lengthening stems, creating a low cascading grouping about 12 inches tall. Commonly called Mexican Ghost Plant, their leaves are a pale, chalky, ghostlike gold or green. With partial shade and regular water the color changes to a mauve blue. The flowers are star-shaped, large, white-and-red or yellow and one-quarter of an inch in diameter. They bloom in spring and early summer. Graptopetalum reproduces by rosettes that break off and root.
When looking at “mystery” succulents think in terms of leaf shape, color, and thickness. Then look to see if there are offsets. Are the offsets located on stolons or attached to a main stem? Watch for flowers and see if they are bell shaped or star shaped. All of these characteristics will provide information about the genus of the “mystery” succulent.
Table for identifying Echeveria, Sempervivum, and Graptopetalum:
Characteristics of common varieties |
Echeveria |
Sempervivum |
Graptopetalum |
Origin |
North & South America |
Europe |
South America |
Rosette size |
3/4”-20” diameter |
1”-5” diameter |
2”-5” diameter |
Offset Spread |
spread from a main stem |
clumping, stolon held |
rosettes break off from root |
Leaves |
thick & spoon-like |
narrow & pointy |
thickest & rounded |
Leaf color |
gray-green, bluish |
gray-green, red-brown |
chalky gold or green |
Flower shape |
bell shaped |
star shaped |
star shaped |
Flower color |
white, orange, pink, red |
red, yellow, pink |
white/red, yellow |
Flower growth pattern |
on stem amidst leaves |
on stolon from center |
stem from center |
Common name |
Hen & Chicks |
Hen & Chicks |
Ghost plant |
Table created by Barbara Ott
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
What can you do with a plot of land that's empty and full of weeds? Plant a garden and start composting with your neighbors! St. Timothy's Episcopal Church in Gridley, with the help of generous grants from the Episcopal Foundation of Northern California and California Alliance for Community Composting, has transformed the lot next door to the church at 450 Jackson Street into a garden and composting center for the community: a place to grow food or learn how to garden, a drop-off site for compostable kitchen scraps, and a peaceful outdoor space for people to enjoy.
The idea for a community garden at St. Timothy's began back in 2015 with the Gridley Community Roots Garden, which closed in 2018. In addition to the individual garden plots for rent, the church's relaunch of the garden includes a teaching garden which doubles as growing space for food to give away to the community, a children's garden and mud kitchen (for messy outdoor play), an outdoor sink and potting area, and of course shaded seating and pleasant surroundings for those who gather.
The composting program at the garden is expanding thanks to a grant from California Alliance for Community Composting (CACC) funded by CalRecycle. St. Timothy's currently composts about 75 pounds of kitchen scraps weekly, with the capacity (and goal) to triple that amount, significantly reducing the amount of organic waste going to the landfill. All compost produced at the garden will be used in the garden or shared with those who donate kitchen scraps.
To sign up to bring kitchen scraps to The Garden at St. Timothy's, go to Butte Environmental Council - Composting and scroll down to find the links to Gridley. When you sign up, you can request a complimentary 5-gallon bucket with a lid.
With faith that the grant funds would come through, St. Timothy's began preparations for the garden in July 2022: cutting weeds and clearing rubbish, grading and leveling the ground and solarizing the soil to kill weeds. The church paid for a new chain link fence on the alley side of the garden.
By the fall of 2022, volunteers were digging trenches, repairing existing piping, and installing new in-ground irrigation pipe and sprinkler valves for the watering system. Old lumber left over from the first garden was repurposed to build a potting bench, outdoor sink, and mud kitchen for children.
In March of 2023, new redwood was purchased to construct the garden beds, and many volunteers showed up to tackle the job of filling the beds with soil and compost. Pathways between beds were covered with donated wood chips.
The newest addition to the garden is an 8' x 16' greenhouse that is currently under construction. Other plans include comfortable benches and a small fountain at the center of the garden, espaliered fruit trees, a rainwater recovery system, and a redwood deck at the front garden entrance.
You don't need to be an experienced gardener to get started at St. Timothy's. There are lots of resources and support (everything from tools to seeds), as well as guidance from UC Master Gardeners of Butte County! A recent seed-starting event at the garden attracted a friendly mix of new and experienced gardeners and volunteers who had fun planting seeds in flats (for transplanting outside later this spring). Other recent events included free public talks about composting and the 1,000 Acres More program by Amy Roseman of Butte County Local Food Network.
Butte County Local Food Network has donated a “Free the Food” stand to The Garden at St. Timothy's, so that gardeners can share their produce with the community, and the community can bring food to share with others as well: fresh, whole vegetables and fruits are welcome. The food stand will soon be located in front of the church at 410 Jackson Street.
The Garden at St. Timothy's is growing, thanks to the many gardeners, volunteers, and other folks who have provided ideas, effort, enthusiasm and support. There's plenty of room in the garden and it's always open…come and take a look!
The Master Gardeners' Spring Workshop Series has begun! There will be 15 more workshops on a variety of topics (including composting) between now and May 22. For information about the workshops, and to register, go to our website. All workshops are free, but registration is required.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.