Native Plants For Your Garden

By Ann Dozier Master Gardener

To save water and discourage deer, I’d like to replant some of my flower beds using native plants, but I’m afraid my summer garden will lack color.  Do you have some suggestions?

Carol D., Atascadero

Native plants are great additions to Central Coast gardens, and they are easy to buy and grow here.  However, you’re right in thinking that many are not summer-flowering; often they bloom in spring and are summer-dormant. Still, you can have an attractive, low-water garden year round by choosing a rich blend of contrasting textures, shapes and foliage colors. Several perennials such as penstemon and monkey flower (Mimulus) do bloom into July, while others like California fuchsia begin bloom in August.

If after research you feel you’ll want more color than natives provide, you can add some summer-flowering plants from other Mediterranean climate zones to your mix. When choosing natives for your garden, pick those that like your climate and soil. Natives of sandy, foggy beach areas will have a hard time surviving in North County. While planning, also try to group those plants that like the same amount of water.  Many California natives do not do well with regular summer watering; be especially careful to provide good drainage in clay soils.     

Fall is the best time to plant natives; they will have several weeks to get established before cold weather begins. However, do take time to gather ideas for your plantings. The SLO Botanical Garden and the Cal Poly Arboretum are good places to see plants in groupings that mimic their natural habitat. Most local nurseries also have native plant sections. Online, browse www.slowaterwiselandscaping.com or go to www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu/ and click on “all stars.” Libraries also offer beautiful books about gardening in dry climates.

These sources usually mention deer resistance; unfortunately hungry deer will graze on many natives. Often they take tender leaves and blossoms without killing well established plants. Sages and other aromatic plants are usually avoided. Individual plant protectors are practical deterrents. For more information about managing deer, go to http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74117.html

Acorn To An Oak Tree

By Ann Dozier  Master Gardener

Many oak trees sprout on my property.  Can I transplant them, or is it better to plant acorns in order to grow oaks where I want them? Sid B. Los Osos

In general, you’ll be more successful if you plant an acorn where you would like a tree rather than trying to transplant oak seedlings.  Seedlings quickly develop long tap roots (as you know if you’ve tried to pull them up). It’s difficult to move them without damaging roots.

Acorns from healthy local trees give the best results. We live in a region of micro climates and oaks adapted to Paso Robles may not thrive in Los Osos. You can try planting non-local varieties, but be aware they may not thrive. If you are aiming to start an oak woodland, you should certainly use local acorns.

October into November is a good time to collect acorns for planting; they are ripe when they start turning from green to brown and detach easily from their caps. For best results, pick or shake them from trees rather than collecting them from the ground.  Wash acorns in a bucket of water and discard those that float.  Dry them and put them in plastic bags in the refrigerator for about a month.  After first rains, dig out and replace several feet (if possible) of soil in the planting spot to give tap roots an easy start. Then plant acorns on their sides in damp soil, ½ to 1 inch deep. Seedlings may need some water, but taper off watering as they mature; summer watering can lead to several kinds of fungal disease.

Oaks can also be started in containers. Collect and refrigerate as described and plant acorns in pots. Tall, narrow pots will accommodate long taproots.  Seedlings can grow in pots for up to a year before planting out.  After planting, keep down competing weeds and use barriers to prevent pests from eating young trees.

The University of California offers online tips for growing oak trees. Go to: www.anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu and search publication 21538.

October Chores

By Jim Borland  Master Gardener

It's almost October. The days are noticeably shorter and the first frost may not be too far in the future. Most of the days are still warm and we'll be having some rain soon. Now is the time to plant spring bulbs and divide perennials, and if you have a fruit or vegetable patch, you're mostly busy reaping the rewards of harvest. This is a good time to plant trees, shrubs and perennials to give them time to develop strong root systems before next summer's dry weather. If you wait until spring to do your planting, they will need excessive watering to survive the baking summer. Existing perennials can be divided and/or transplanted. Congested clumps of perennials need dividing in order to encourage plenty of flowering next year and to increase your plant stock. Dig up the whole clump, divide it into smaller pieces and replant in groups. In your vegetable garden, pumpkins and winter squash should be harvested soon and moved into a cool, airy location where they can last for many months. From now on, regularly check your stored vegetable crops and remove anything showing signs of rot or damage to prevent the spread to healthy material. You can plant hardy lettuce crops, spinach, onions, broccoli, beets, carrots and other winter vegetables. Don't forget to aid next summer's effort by making a note of what has been growing, and where, in your summer vegetable garden. Time to clean up your garden debris. Remove all vegetable crop remains and fallen fruit and remove the dead annuals from your ornamental garden. Start raking fallen autumn leaves (be sure to remove leaves that may mat and suffocate your lawn). Start a compost pile with all the refuse. If you have a cool season lawn, fertilize grass in early October and finish your lawn repairs. Reseed the bare areas or lay new turf. Regular mowing should stop soon (raise the height of cut for the winter). Start moving houseplants indoors. Check for pests first and acclimate plants slowly if you can.
If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse, now is a good time to clean it out and wash it down. Getting the glass clean will allow more light through and cleaning the frame will remove pests looking for a good spot to spend the winter.

photo by Lee Oliphant

Artichokes – A Vegetable That Grows Like a Weed

By Lee Oliphant Master Gardener

Want a suggestion for a striking perennial plant that grows in flowerbeds, in vegetable gardens, survives in lean soil with little water, and produces food for the table? The artichoke might just “fit the bill”.

Globe artichokes (Cynara scolymus)are thistle-like plants with deeply lobed silvery blue-green leaves, and bear edible buds (about 3-5 inches). They are believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region where they grow wild. The plant typically grows to a height of 5 feet and blooms prolifically in good garden soil.

Artichoke buds are covered with scales and have a fleshy base, known as the “heart”, and a mass of immature florets in the center called the “choke”. These become inedible as the flower matures. If the bud is left to bloom, it opens to a lovely thistle-like purple flower.
Artichoke plants thrive in the cool humid climate along the coast. Buy rootstock, divide roots, or start new plants from seed. Add plenty of organic matter and slow-release fertilizer to the soil when planting. Provide supplementary water to the soil during the dry season.

Cut off dead leaves with a lopper as they appear at the bottom to prevent damage to developing shoots. When the main stalk has finished producing, cut the plant to the ground, let it rest a few weeks, and then begin watering again. You’ll soon have another beautiful plant that produces unique and unusual vegetable for your dining table.