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What's Hot in 2024

January

amaryllis
by Alton Wright

I received a potted amaryllis as a gift last month. It’s finished blooming. Can I get it to rebloom again next winter?

With careful attention, your amaryllis will rebloom indoors next winter. The first step is to remove only the spent flowers. It’s critically important to retain the stem and emerging leaves for the plant to photosynthesize energy for next year’s blossoms. Put the plant in a bright, sunny window, water regularly, and provide a monthly shot of all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Once spring arrives, place your plant outside in filtered light for a week or so, eventually moving it into a sunny location that receives six-plus hours of light. Keep up the watering and fertilizing. Don’t overwater, and watch for pests, especially slugs and snails. Bring the plant indoors in the late autumn, before the first frost, eight to twelve weeks before you want blossoms. Put it in a dark, cool (45-55 degrees) location. Stop watering and fertilizing. Let it dry out and rest. Remove the yellowed leaves. Once you see new growth, place your plant in a warmer, sunny indoor location. Resume watering and fertilizing. With patience, you’ll be rewarded with another display. Alternatively, many people in our area have found success planting their spent amaryllis bulbs outdoors in the spring (after danger of frost has passed), to bloom in the summer. It may be worth a try! Happy Gardening!


February

seedlings
by Alton Wright

I'm starting seeds indoors for my summer garden. I've often had problems when transplanting my seedlings outdoors, and subsequently lost many. Do you have any suggestions for steps I can take to improve my success rate?

There are three primary causes of seedling transplant failure: 1) not preparing the seedlings for the outdoors; 2) excessive root disturbance; and 3) not protecting the seedlings while they become established.

“Hardening off” prepares indoor seedlings for cooler outdoor temperatures, changeable humidity, and increased air movement. The easiest way to harden off is to first put established seedlings (i.e. those that have multiple leaves) in a shaded, protected location outside on successive warm days and bring them in at night. Each day, increase the amount of sunlight the seedlings receive, ensuring that the plants don't dry out. To minimize root disturbance, consider planting your seeds directly into small peat pots. As the plants grow, and when root hairs appear on the pot surface, re-pot the small pot into a larger peat pot. Repeat as needed until your plants reach the size you want. After hardening off, you can plant straight into the garden soil without removing the seedlings from their pot. After planting your seedlings, provide protection from blistering sun and drying wind. An easy way to do this is to fold cardboard into A-frame tents that allow for air circulation. Happy Gardening!


March

eggs
by Jeanne Lawrence

Is it true that you can use eggshells in the garden? What are they good for?

Eggshells are high in calcium carbonate, which is an excellent soil amendment. Tomatoes especially love calcium, and incorporating crushed eggshells into the soil around tomato plants or at the bottom of their planting holes will help prevent blossom end rot. In general, mixing crushed eggshells into your garden soil will reduce its acidity and aid in aerating it. Adding eggshells to mulch is another way for your plants to benefit from calcium, which, like phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, is an essential nutrient which helps plants develop healthy cell walls. Just rinse eggshells and let them dry in an open container, then crush them into fairly fine bits. An easy way to do this is to put them in a sealed plastic bag, then bash them with a rolling pin. A coffee bean grinder also works, and will produce finer particles. So—save those eggshells and let them help out your garden plants!


April

zinnia
by Jeanne Lawrence

I love spring’s warmer weather and the return of lots of flowers, but I also suffer from allergies when spring arrives. Are there particular plants I should avoid introducing to my garden in order to cut down on possible allergens?

Pollen is often the culprit leading to allergic reactions. While all flowering plants produce pollen, those that are dispersed by the wind are the worst offenders. Grasses are major triggers for hay fever, so avoid planting ornamental varieties like pampas grass and miscanthus. Some fragrant plants, like honeysuckle, carnations, Daphne, and sweet Williams, can provoke an attack of hay fever or asthma. Plants in the daisy family, like chrysanthemums, marigolds, and zinnias, may be a hazard. The ubiquitous oleander, too, can be an irritant to allergy sufferers, as can liquidamber trees, which release pollen from their flowering heads. It’s best to do a little research before purchasing new nursery plants, just to be sure they will not cause you health problems down the line.


May

stargazer lily
by Jeanne Lawrence

I went shopping at a big box store and bought a bag of Oriental lilies. On the bag it says to plant in late spring in our area, but online sources tell me they should be planted in the fall. Is it too late to plant them? Will they bloom this year?

You are in luck! While it is best to plant most lilies in the fall for blooms the following spring, Oriental lilies (the most well-known of which might be the deep pink “Stargaze” and the pure white “Casablanca”) can be planted in our area in the spring because they bloom in late summer and fall. If you plant them now, there is still enough time for them to fully develop, though they may bloom a little later than they would if they had been planted in the fall. Lilies do not like being out of the ground, so plant them as soon as possible after purchase. Choose a location where they will enjoy morning sun and dappled afternoon shade. If you happen to have evergreens on your property, a layer of pine needles can provide a useful mulch. Oriental lilies are beautiful and fragrant, and well worth including in the garden; happy lilies will multiply and return year after year. Do be aware that certain rodents, especially voles, mice and squirrels, will snack on bulbs. If your lilies are not successful, rodents may be the reason.

Photo: Tiffany825