What's Hot in 2024
January
I received a potted amaryllis as a gift last month. It’s finished blooming. Can I get it to rebloom again next winter?
With careful attention, your amaryllis will rebloom indoors next winter. The first step is to remove only the spent flowers. It’s critically important to retain the stem and emerging leaves for the plant to photosynthesize energy for next year’s blossoms. Put the plant in a bright, sunny window, water regularly, and provide a monthly shot of all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Once spring arrives, place your plant outside in filtered light for a week or so, eventually moving it into a sunny location that receives six-plus hours of light. Keep up the watering and fertilizing. Don’t overwater, and watch for pests, especially slugs and snails. Bring the plant indoors in the late autumn, before the first frost, eight to twelve weeks before you want blossoms. Put it in a dark, cool (45-55 degrees) location. Stop watering and fertilizing. Let it dry out and rest. Remove the yellowed leaves. Once you see new growth, place your plant in a warmer, sunny indoor location. Resume watering and fertilizing. With patience, you’ll be rewarded with another display. Alternatively, many people in our area have found success planting their spent amaryllis bulbs outdoors in the spring (after danger of frost has passed), to bloom in the summer. It may be worth a try! Happy Gardening!
February
I'm starting seeds indoors for my summer garden. I've often had problems when transplanting my seedlings outdoors, and subsequently lost many. Do you have any suggestions for steps I can take to improve my success rate?
There are three primary causes of seedling transplant failure: 1) not preparing the seedlings for the outdoors; 2) excessive root disturbance; and 3) not protecting the seedlings while they become established.
“Hardening off” prepares indoor seedlings for cooler outdoor temperatures, changeable humidity, and increased air movement. The easiest way to harden off is to first put established seedlings (i.e. those that have multiple leaves) in a shaded, protected location outside on successive warm days and bring them in at night. Each day, increase the amount of sunlight the seedlings receive, ensuring that the plants don't dry out. To minimize root disturbance, consider planting your seeds directly into small peat pots. As the plants grow, and when root hairs appear on the pot surface, re-pot the small pot into a larger peat pot. Repeat as needed until your plants reach the size you want. After hardening off, you can plant straight into the garden soil without removing the seedlings from their pot. After planting your seedlings, provide protection from blistering sun and drying wind. An easy way to do this is to fold cardboard into A-frame tents that allow for air circulation. Happy Gardening!
March
Is it true that you can use eggshells in the garden? What are they good for?
Eggshells are high in calcium carbonate, which is an excellent soil amendment. Tomatoes especially love calcium, and incorporating crushed eggshells into the soil around tomato plants or at the bottom of their planting holes will help prevent blossom end rot. In general, mixing crushed eggshells into your garden soil will reduce its acidity and aid in aerating it. Adding eggshells to mulch is another way for your plants to benefit from calcium, which, like phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, is an essential nutrient which helps plants develop healthy cell walls. Just rinse eggshells and let them dry in an open container, then crush them into fairly fine bits. An easy way to do this is to put them in a sealed plastic bag, then bash them with a rolling pin. A coffee bean grinder also works, and will produce finer particles. So—save those eggshells and let them help out your garden plants!
April
I love spring’s warmer weather and the return of lots of flowers, but I also suffer from allergies when spring arrives. Are there particular plants I should avoid introducing to my garden in order to cut down on possible allergens?
Pollen is often the culprit leading to allergic reactions. While all flowering plants produce pollen, those that are dispersed by the wind are the worst offenders. Grasses are major triggers for hay fever, so avoid planting ornamental varieties like pampas grass and miscanthus. Some fragrant plants, like honeysuckle, carnations, Daphne, and sweet Williams, can provoke an attack of hay fever or asthma. Plants in the daisy family, like chrysanthemums, marigolds, and zinnias, may be a hazard. The ubiquitous oleander, too, can be an irritant to allergy sufferers, as can liquidamber trees, which release pollen from their flowering heads. It’s best to do a little research before purchasing new nursery plants, just to be sure they will not cause you health problems down the line.
May
I went shopping at a big box store and bought a bag of Oriental lilies. On the bag it says to plant in late spring in our area, but online sources tell me they should be planted in the fall. Is it too late to plant them? Will they bloom this year?
You are in luck! While it is best to plant most lilies in the fall for blooms the following spring, Oriental lilies (the most well-known of which might be the deep pink “Stargaze” and the pure white “Casablanca”) can be planted in our area in the spring because they bloom in late summer and fall. If you plant them now, there is still enough time for them to fully develop, though they may bloom a little later than they would if they had been planted in the fall. Lilies do not like being out of the ground, so plant them as soon as possible after purchase. Choose a location where they will enjoy morning sun and dappled afternoon shade. If you happen to have evergreens on your property, a layer of pine needles can provide a useful mulch. Oriental lilies are beautiful and fragrant, and well worth including in the garden; happy lilies will multiply and return year after year. Do be aware that certain rodents, especially voles, mice and squirrels, will snack on bulbs. If your lilies are not successful, rodents may be the reason.
Photo: Tiffany825
June
Something is eating the leaves of my tomato plants, and I am pretty sure tomato hornworms are the culprits. The problem is that I can’t see them! Do you have any tips for locating hornworms and, once I find them, getting rid of them?
Tomato hornworms are notoriously hard to spot because they blend in so well with the foliage of tomato plants. You can start by looking for black or green droppings left on a leaf by the worm larvae; turn the leaf over, and you may well find a hornworm hanging out there. Hornworms generally start at the top of the plant and work down; check along stems and the undersides of leaves in areas where the leaves have been munched. If you are willing to search at night, go hornworm hunting with a UV flashlight: hornworms glow under UV light, so they will be much easier to spot. Once you have collected some hornworms, squish them, toss them into soapy water, or leave them out in a cleared area for birds to eat. At the end of the season, till the soil thoroughly once you have taken out the dying tomato plants—this should help prevent the return of hornworms next year.
July
For the past several weeks I have noticed a white powdery substance on some of the leaves of my young crape myrtle. What is it, will it harm my tree, and how can I get rid of it?
The problem here is powdery mildew, a fungus called Erysiphe lagerstroemiae. The spores of this fungus are easily spread by the wind and take up residence on plants in warm and damp, humid and/or shady conditions. Crape myrtles, especially young ones or those stressed by heat or drought, are commonly infected. Suckers emerging from the base of the tree or shrub are especially susceptible. The best solution is to plant a crape myrtle in full sun, never water it from above (keep the sprinkler away from it!), remove any shoots or suckers when they appear, and prune the canopy carefully to ensure ample airflow. To combat a current case of powdery mildew, turn to neem oil, which is a safe alternative to chemical solutions and will not harm pollinators or other beneficial insects. Mix 4 teaspoons neem oil and 1 teaspoon castile soap in 1 gallon of warm water, and spray on the infected areas of your crape myrtle every 7 days until symptoms abate.
August
This summer’s heat is taking a toll on my vegetables. Many leaves appear withered and the produce has splotchy, white bruises. What's going on, and what can I do about it?
Summer is the time for spectacular bounty, but too much heat, sun, and dry wind damages growth, lowers yields, and even kills plants. When it's hot and windy, and the soil is dry, plants can experience leaf scorch. Leaf scorch appears as browned leaf margins that eventually become tissue-paper thin. Refrain from removing unsightly leaves. They are still photosynthesizing and providing shade for new growth. Sunscald happens when it's excessively hot, and there's intense solar exposure. Initially, it looks like a lesion on maturing produce and sometimes on large fleshy stems. Over time, the spots become lighter in color and soft.
Once leaf scorch and sunscald occur, it's difficult to reverse the damage; however, preventative measures can reduce further damage. Ample watering before and during spells of extreme heat and wind is a must. Mulching keeps your plant's roots cool and helps them retain moisture. When used according to directions, Kaolin Clay is a non-toxic spray that helps reduce sunscald. Using shade cloth reduces water loss, lowers temps, and lessens the extreme sun exposure that amplifies sunscald. Consider using a knitted cloth with a 30-60% density rating, keeping it securely elevated above your plants. Check the cloth daily to make sure wildlife isn't caught in it. Good luck and stay cool!
September
My bearded irises look shabby after all the heat. They didn't bloom much last spring. Is there anything I can do to revive them?
At this time of year, irises are slowing down and preparing for winter. The lackluster blooming is likely due to overcrowding, and this is the right time of year to divide your plants. Use a shovel or digging fork to carefully lift the clump of surface rhizomes. Using your hands or a knife, break the clump into 2-4 smaller pieces, each with healthy roots. Shake off most of the dirt. Remove any diseased/rotted roots and rhizome parts and trim the tops of the foliage by half (so each piece looks like a fan). Trimming the foliage is important because it directs more energy into necessary root development before winter. Dip the healthy rhizome/root portions in a 50:50 beach/water solution (or use a spray bottle). Replant in a sunny, well-draining area, keeping the rhizomes slightly above the soil and leaving plenty of room between the plants for future growth. Water well. In the late autumn, dust some bone meal around the plants. It will seep into the soil during the winter rains, fertilizing the shallow root system. Plan for a glorious spring show, and remember to divide your bearded irises every three to five years to keep that show going!
October
My lawn looks terrible now, after all the summer heat damage. What do I need to do to revive it?
Fall is the perfect time to revive existing lawn or (better yet) begin the process of reducing lawn size or eliminating it entirely. To restore your lawn damaged by extreme heat, you'll need to weed, reduce thatch, and reseed bald spots. Fertilize with an organic, high-nitrogen solution. Deeply water until the fall/winter rains take over. Given that lawn damage is easy to spot, it's a good time to add sprinkler heads that will deliver more to water to those areas next summer. If the harsh sun scorched your lawn, plant fast-growing, easy-to-manage deciduous trees that will provide filtered afternoon sunlight. If your lawn is beyond repair or you’d like to reduce your workload and use less water, consider replacing all or part of your lawn with a wildflower garden. Select drought-resistant perennials and annuals that thrive in the heat and sun. They will attract pollinators and wildlife, adding more interest to your garden. Seeds planted now will benefit from the winter rains. You might want to include swales or water catch basins in your wildflower garden design. There are many options to explore. Have fun with it!
November
Aside from pruning, what can I do now to improve the health and yield of my home orchard next year?
This is a very timely question, because right now is when our fruit trees need special attention. After you have pruned and leaf drop has occurred, be sure to clean up all debris under the trees. Rake up the leaves and consider disposing of them as green waste rather than composting them, because any present fungal infections might not be killed in your home composting process. Pull back any mulch to allow winter rains to soak into the soil under trees. Once you've completed these steps, apply the first (of three) dormant sprayings to help control leaf curl, shot hole, powdery mildew, and other fungi. Generally, horticultural oil and/or fixed copper should be applied around Thanksgiving, again near the New Year, and finally around Valentine’s Day, before buds open. Take precautions when applying sprays because some trees, like apricots, should not receive sulfur-based chemicals. Remember to wear gloves, masks and protective clothing. (Get detailed information about dormant spraying.) Finally, this is a good time to research and purchase fruit tree fertilizer that should be applied only in the early spring. Wishing you a bountiful crop next year!
December
How can I prepare my citrus ahead of time for the freezing temperatures that are sure to come in the next few months?
If your citrus trees are in pots and can be moved, situating them close to a wall of your house will provide protection and some warmth. Well-irrigated trees are better able to endure freezing temperatures, so whether in a pot or in the ground, keep the soil at the base of the tree bare. It may seem counter-intuitive, but bare, moist soil is better able to absorb and reradiate heat than soil insulated with mulch, weeds, or other ground covers. A light bulb (100-watt, designed for outdoor use), or Christmas lights hung in the middle of a tree can provide frost protection if the lights are the “old-fashioned” incandescent type that actually release significant heat. When a freeze is predicted, covering young or small trees with sheets, burlap, or tarps will provide protection. Remove the covering in the morning after the temperature rises.