“Kill your lawn!” has become a popular phrase and landscaping trend in recent years. Whether you are looking to completely remove your lawn or just renovate it, this article will give you useful information to help you decide how best to do away with your existing lawn and prepare for your new design.
There are many reasons someone might be looking to get rid of their lawn.
- Can be costly to maintain (water, landscapers, time, equipment, fertilizers, etc.)
- Aesthetics (desire a different look)
- Create habitat (plants for birds, pollinators, natural enemies, etc.)
- Replace groundcover (plant different grass type, install turfgrass alternative)
- Save water by using drought resistant or low-water needing plants
On the other hand, someone might decide to keep or install a new lawn for many reasons.
- Use by children and pets (soft outdoor area for moving around and playing)
- Can be low maintenance (compared to certain plant selections)
- Aesthetics (prefer the look of a lawn)
Whatever your reasoning for killing your existing lawn or removing sections of it, there are several methods you can use to do so, both chemical and non-chemical. You may also choose to use a combination of both.
Sheet mulching
A low-cost method for killing your lawn is to cover it with cardboard or several layers of newspaper. Closely mow the grass and place 1 to 3 layers of unwaxed cardboard or newspaper on top to prevent sunlight from allowing the grass to grow. Top with 1 to 2 inches of compost and 3 to 4 inches of mulch.
Soil solarization
This method works to “cook” the existing lawn by trapping heat from the sun under a clear plastic tarp. Intense sunlight and high temperatures are required for this method, so it is best done in the summer, in areas that receive full sun. Cloudy or foggy regions, or shady parts of the yard won't be as effectively killed. Dig out or closely mow the existing lawn. Wet the soil in the area that you intend to cover. Tightly cover with a clear plastic tarp. Leave the tarp on for 4 to 6 weeks, and maintain soil temperature below the tarp between 110º to 125°F. For more in-depth soil solarization instructions and information, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Soil Solarization for Gardens & Landscapes.
Hand-digging or machine use
You can remove a lawn manually by digging it out, using a sod cutter, or using a rototiller machine. These methods are more physically demanding so they are better for smaller spaces. Moisten the soil prior to removal to make it easier to dig or cut out. To dig out your lawn, use a flat shovel and dig parallel to the soil to remove the top 1 to 2 inches of lawn. A sod cutter can be rented to similarly remove the top 1 to 2 inches by cutting the lawn into strips.
Herbicide application
One of the quickest and less labor-intensive ways to kill an existing lawn is to apply a nonselective, systemic herbicide like diquat or glyphosate that will kill most weeds and the turfgrass and their roots. It may take up to 7 days after the application for the grass to completely absorb the material and plant damage to start showing. Depending on temperature, it can take up to 2 weeks for the entire lawn to die.
Herbicides that work on contact like acetic acid (vinegar) and ammonium salt of fatty acid (herbicidal soap) are not as efficient as they do not kill weeds and grasses to the root. Multiple applications of the contact herbicide are likely needed as well as hand-removing the plant material.
For more detailed information on lawn removal see Lawn Removal Methods by the UCCE Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.
You've successfully killed your lawn, now what?
If you want to reestablish your lawn and reseed, you'll need to think about irrigation, amending the soil (if needed), and choosing a grass variety that is best suited for your area and goals. To learn more about lawn renovation and how to establish and care for a new lawn, see the UC Guide to Healthy Lawns. If you're considering installing artificial turf (fake grass), evaluate the risks involved by visiting https://gba.org/blog/artificial-turf-fields-health-and-environmental-concerns/.
If you'd like to replace your lawn with mulch or rocks, see our Mulch resource page to learn about this option. Prior to applying wood or rock mulch to an area, you may want to place landscape fabric or sheet mulch (cardboard or paper) over the soil to prevent weeds and grasses from growing.
If you wish to replace your lawn with an alternative, like clover or thyme, see the Lawn & Lawn Alternatives resource from the UC Marin County Master Gardeners. For more information about replacing your lawn with flowering plants to attract pollinators and beneficial insects, or reduce water use, visit:
- UC Master Gardeners
- UC Davis Arboretum's Planting Plans
- California Native Plant Society's Native Plant Lists and Planners
- UC IPM Insectary Plants
- CA. Department of Water Resources Water Efficient Landscaping
Keep in mind that none of these methods will absolutely prevent weeds and grasses from invading your lawn or landscaped areas in the future. Keeping weeds out and preventing undesirable grassy areas from regrowing, requires diligence and a combination of control methods. To learn more about weed management in landscaped areas, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Landscapes. For weed management in lawns, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Lawns.
/h2>Fall is the best time to put new plants in the ground. They can establish roots and become accustomed to conditions in their new home before going dormant for the winter, then benefit from the mild spring conditions before the scorching heat of summer arrives. Because we continue to experience serious drought, choose plants that are known to be drought resistant and/or drought tolerant.
The beauty of evolution is its reliance on trial and error, or adaptation. What works, works very well, and allows life in many forms to exist in some of Earth's harshest environments. The climatic conditions of the planet's seven Mediterranean Zones include between five and seven months of zero precipitation, and many days in a row with high temperatures of over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. These are challenging circumstances for any living thing. Yet a wide variety of plants have evolved clever strategies to survive these long, dry, hot periods.
Desiccation Tolerance: To desiccate something is to thoroughly dry it. Tolerance of desiccation gives a plant the remarkable ability to survive almost total dehydration. This strategy is employed by mosses and ferns. Briefly, plants in this category have developed the ability to enter into, and recover from, anhydrobiosis, the cessation of metabolic activity as a result of low intracellular water content. Next time you are hiking in Upper Park or the foothills during the dry months, you can see this phenomenon for yourself. Find a patch of rust colored, crunchy dry moss on a rock, and gently pour a small amount of water on it. In seconds, what appeared to be completely dead vegetation will turn green and supple.
Drought Avoidance: Many succulents employ strategies of drought avoidance. The most common of these strategies is Crassulacean acid metabolism or CAM (so named because this type of metabolism was first studied in plants of the family Crassulaceae). To avoid complete dehydration due to heat and drought, the stomata in the leaves remain shut during the day to reduce evapotranspiration, but open at night to collect carbon dioxide (CO2), from which they are able to complete the process of photosynthesis during daylight hours.
Annuals are the prime example of drought avoidance. When they find climatic conditions too unpleasant, they curl up and die, and let their seeds ride it out until circumstances improve with nourishing rains and milder temperatures. (Fun fact: California has considerably more endemic annuals than any other place on Earth.)
Drought Tolerance: Lastly, there is this catch-all phrase. Plants in this category are just better at functioning during annual drought conditions, due to a number of creative adaptations. Such plants are also called xerophytes; literally “dry plants.” They remain green all year round, but manage to save or store water, often through structural (usually leaf) morphology. Common structural adaptations for water conservation are:
- Thick, leathery leaves with waxy cuticles, which perform dual functions of cutting down on water loss and reflecting heat away from the plant. Our native Ceanothus (California Lilac) is a prime example of this.
- Small, thin leaves, which effectively reduce the surface area from which water loss can occur. The tiny yet highly fragrant leaves of Santolina typify this adaptation.
- Sunken stomata pits, which trap moist air and reduce water loss rates. Pine needles employ this strategy (as well as being small and thin).
- Hairy leaves, like those found on Cyprus ironwort (Sideritis cypria) or Lamb's Ears (Stachys byzantina), which shade the stomata and reduce contact from hot air, protecting plants from extremes of light and temperature.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at (530) 538-7201. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us Hotline webpage.
You've seen these terms often: “drought tolerant” and “water-wise.” For water conservation and sustainable gardening, Master Gardeners recommend plants that are adapted to the long, hot, dry summers of the Mediterranean climate. But what are the characteristics that qualify a plant for membership in the Drought Tolerant Society?
Generally speaking, there are three major strategies employed by plants to survive annual drought conditions: desiccation tolerance; drought avoidance; and drought tolerance. These strategies evolved through millions of years of adaptation, and are endlessly fascinating in their ingenuity. (Please note that the survival tactics described below, the result of complex chemical and molecular biological processes, are simplified for this article.)
Drought Avoidance: Many succulents employ strategies of drought avoidance. The most common of these strategies is Crassulacean acid metabolism (or CAM), so named because this type of metabolism was first studied in plants of the family Crassulaceae. To avoid complete dehydration due to heat and drought, the stomata in the leaves remain shut during the day to reduce evapotranspiration, but open at night to collect carbon dioxide (CO2), from which they are able to complete the process of photosynthesis during daylight hours.
Another form of drought avoidance is early leaf drop. A good example of this is the buckeye (Aesculus), which occupies a unique ecological niche by being one of the first shrubs to leaf out and flower in early spring, and also one of the first to lose its leaves, well before the onslaught of summer heat and drought. Leaves demand precious nutrients and energy, and without them the buckeye can conserve these resources. During years of drought, and during sustained periods of high temperatures, our valley oaks and blue oaks lighten their metabolic load by dropping some leaves earlier than usual.
Drought Tolerance: Lastly, there is this catch-all phrase. Plants in this category are just better at functioning during annual drought conditions, due to a number of creative adaptations. Such plants are also called xerophytes; literally “dry plants.” They remain green all year round, but manage to save or store water, often through structural (usually leaf) morphology. Common structural adaptations for water conservation are:
- Thick, leathery leaves with waxy cuticles, which perform dual functions of cutting down on water loss and reflecting heat away from the plant. Our native Ceanothus (California Lilac) is a prime example of this.
- Small, thin leaves, which effectively reduce the surface area from which water loss can occur. The tiny yet highly fragrant leaves of Santolina typify this adaptation.
- Sunken stomata pits, which trap moist air and reduce water loss rates. Pine needles employ this strategy (as well as being small and thin).
- Hairy leaves, like those found on Cyprus ironwort (Sideritis cypria) or Lamb's Ears (Stachys byzantina), which shade the stomata and reduce contact from hot air, protecting plants from extremes of light and temperature.
The Master Gardeners Fall 2021 Workshop Series has begun! Upcoming workshops include Garden Guide & Journaling; Propagation; Irrigation & Maintenance; When to Control for Pests; a four-part series on Landscaping for a Future with Fire; Gardening with Chickens; Espalier Gardening; and Tool Care with Rob Fanno from Fanno Saw Works in Chico. Most workshops are in person, following Covid safety protocols, with a limited number of participants. The series on Landscaping for a Future with Fire will be conducted via Zoom. All workshops are free and take place in the morning; none are more than two hours long. Registration is required. You can register and find more information on our website.
By Laura Lukes, UC Master Gardener of Butte County, September 7, 2018
The beauty of evolution is its reliance on trial and error, or adaptation. What works, works very well, and allows life in many forms to exist in some of Earth's harshest environments. The climatic conditions of the planet's seven Mediterranean Zones include between five and seven months of zero precipitation, and many days in a row with high temperatures of over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. These are challenging circumstances for any living thing. Yet a wide variety of plants have evolved clever strategies to survive these long, dry, hot periods.
Generally speaking, there are three major strategies employed by plants to survive annual drought conditions: desiccation tolerance; drought avoidance; and drought tolerance. These strategies evolved through millions of years of adaptation, and are endlessly fascinating in their ingenuity. (Please note that the survival tactics described below, the result of complex chemical and molecular biological processes, are simplified for this article.)
Desiccation Tolerance: To desiccate something is to thoroughly dry it. Tolerance of desiccation gives a plant the remarkable ability to survive almost total dehydration. This strategy is employed by mosses and ferns. Briefly, plants in this category have developed the ability to enter into, and recover from, anhydrobiosis, the cessation of metabolic activity as a result of low intracellular water content. Next time you are hiking in Upper Park or the foothills during the dry months, you can see this phenomenon for yourself. Find a patch of rust colored, crunchy dry moss on a rock, and gently pour a small amount of water on it. In seconds, what appeared to be completely dead vegetation will turn green and supple.
Another form of drought avoidance is early leaf drop. A good example of this is the buckeye (Aesculus), which occupies a unique ecological niche by being one of the first shrubs to leaf out and flower in early spring, and also one of the first to lose its leaves, well before the onslaught of summer heat and drought. Leaves demand precious nutrients and energy, and without them the buckeye can conserve these resources. During years of drought, and during sustained periods of high temperatures, our valley oaks and blue oaks lighten their metabolic load by dropping some leaves earlier than usual.
Drought Tolerance: Lastly, there is this catch-all phrase. Plants in this category are just better at functioning during annual drought conditions, due to a number of creative adaptations. Such plants are also called xerophytes; literally “dry plants.” They remain green all year round, but manage to save or store water, often through structural (usually leaf) morphology. Common structural adaptations for water conservation are:
- Thick, leathery leaves with waxy cuticles, which perform dual functions of cutting down on water loss and reflecting heat away from the plant. Our native Ceanothus (California Lilac) is a prime example of this.
- Small, thin leaves, which effectively reduce the surface area from which water loss can occur. The tiny yet highly fragrant leaves of Santolina typify this adaptation.
- Sunken stomata pits, which trap moist air and reduce water loss rates. Pine needles employ this strategy (as well as being small and thin).
- Hairy leaves, like those found on Cyprus ironwort (Sideritis cypria) or Lamb's Ears (Stachys byzantina), which shade the stomata and reduce contact from hot air, protecting plants from extremes of light and temperature.
Redundancy is a hallmark strategy for species survival (think two kidneys in human beings); and most plants employ more than one method of beating the hot dry summers of the Mediterranean climate. Now that you know what to look for, see how many of these ingenious biological adaptations you can spot.
- Author: Harold McDonald
When I moved to the wilds of West Chalfant a dozen years ago, I knew that native plants was the only way to go. Because there wasn't much available in local nurseries back then, I turned to the Internet and ordered a big box of plants online from Las Pilitas Nursery. Some have lived and some have died, but the true gem of that box has been a plant I previously did not know—Rhus ovata, commonly called sugarbush. As far as an all-around performer, it may be my very favorite bush.
Rhus ovata is native to chaparral below 4,000 feet, from southern California east to south central Arizona. Though evergreen in its native range, our colder winters can make sugar bush lose its leaves at the very end of the winter. Location can be key. The first few winters were pretty tough on my bushes, and I contemplated removing them. Instead, I cut them back to the ground and relocated them to areas next to the house. What a difference! They have thrived on the south and west sides of our house and generally retain their leaves throughout the year (though the leaves can brown along the margins around February).
As though its good looks weren't reason enough to grow it, sugarbush is incredibly low maintenance. Mine are now close to the house, so they get regular water, but they would do fine without it. On the Las Pilitas website, they say they haven't watered their mother plant in over 20 years! You can prune it however you like or even cut it back to the ground—it will only come back stronger, and unlike the deciduous Rhus species, sugar bush doesn't sucker profusely. The literature suggests wearing gloves when pruning, since, like other sumacs, the sap can cause a rash, but this is not something that has been a problem for me.
The problem, of course, is that I've never seen this plant locally, but look for it on your next trip to Southern California. Here are some native plant nurseries that carry Rhus ovata and a lot of other great plants.
- Theodore Payne Foundation, Sun Valley http://theodorepayne.org
- Tree of Life Nursery, San Juan Capistrano http://www.californianativeplants.com
- Rancho Santa Ana Botanical Garden, Claremont http://www.rsabg.org/grow-native-nursery
- Las Pilitas Nursery, Escondido http://www.laspilitas.com
Links provided for your convenience. No endorsement intended or implied.