- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Talk about flower power.
When you walk through the UC Davis Bee Haven, a half-acre garden on Bee Biology Road, west of the central campus, you'll see bees and other pollinators foraging on a pink floribunda rose cultivar, “Nearly Wild." It's flamingo pink, quite fragrant and very buzzworthy, providing both pollen and nectar.
This cultivar is aptly named "Nearly Wild." It has five petals, just like wild roses.
The garden, installed in 2009 and a project of the UC Davis Department of Entomology and Nemalogy, is located next to the Harry H. Laidlaw Jr. Honey Bee Research Facility. Director of the haven is apiculturist/researcher Elina Lastro Niño, associate professor of Cooperative Extension, based in the department.
A six-foot long worker bee, the ceramic-mosaic work of Donna Billick of Davis, anchors the garden, as honey bees from the nearby Laidlaw apiary gather nectar and pollen.
But back to the “Nearly Wild” roses.
They remind us so much of the truly wild roses we've seen growing along river banks, roadsides and in fields. Roses (family Rosaceae and genus Rosa) originated some 25 million years ago. Many of today's roses are the result of centuries of breeding.
What's the story behind "Nearly Wild" and what are its characteristics?" The Missouri Botanical Garden website says this is "a floribunda rose ('Dr. W. Van Fleet' x 'Leuchstern') which typically grows 2-3' tall (less frequently to 4') and as wide. It is a dense, shrubby plant which features clusters of mildly fragrant, single, pink roses (to 3" diameter) with center clumps of prominent yellow stamens. Five-petalled flowers are reminiscent of some species roses hence the cultivar name. Flowers bloom continuously from May to frost. Glossy dark green foliage. Introduced by Brownwell in 1941."
The UC Davis Bee Haven is currently being renovated, but you can still visit from dawn to dusk. Admission is free.
![A pink floribunda rose cultivar, A pink floribunda rose cultivar,](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108454.jpg)
![A native bee seeks to join two honey bees in gathering nectar and pollen from a floribunda rose cultivar, A native bee seeks to join two honey bees in gathering nectar and pollen from a floribunda rose cultivar,](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108455.jpg)
![Side view of a honey bee foraging on a Side view of a honey bee foraging on a](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108456.jpg)
![A honey bee foraging on A honey bee foraging on](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108457.jpg)
Nobody wants cockroaches in their home, especially since these pests can cause and worsen allergies in children, transmit diseases and bacteria, and contaminate foods.
If you find cockroaches in or around your home, do you reach for a do-it-yourself spray product? Well, you might not want to waste your money!
New research shows that some common consumer-grade insecticide sprays don't work to get rid of cockroach infestations. The study focused on products containing pyrethroids, which is a group of pesticides commonly found in many household insecticide products. Examples of pyrethroids include the active ingredients bifenthrin, cypermethrin, and permethrin.
In the study, both liquid and aerosol pyrethroid products killed less than 20% of German cockroaches on sprayed surfaces. Even when cockroaches were confined to the sprayed surfaces, most products took 8 to 24 hours to kill them, with some taking up to 5 days.
Research has also shown that frequent use of pyrethroid insecticides for cockroach management had caused the insects to develop resistance to these products.
So, what can you do to effectively control cockroaches?
Identifying the species present is important since some cockroaches live and breed indoors, while others live and breed outdoors. Knowing which cockroach species you have will allow you to focus control efforts on the correct location, using methods that are effective for managing that specific type of cockroach.
Pesticides alone will not solve a cockroach problem. Use pesticides indoors only if the cockroach population is reproducing and living in your home, not for the occasional intruder. Use insecticide bait products in combination with other non-chemical control methods, such as exclusion and sanitation.
Hiring a professional pest control service that takes an IPM approach can be helpful in reducing serious indoor cockroach infestations but can be also be expensive. Professionals have the tools, experience, and knowledge to better address serious pest issues. Infestations in multi-unit housing, such as apartment complexes, can be especially difficult to control and often requires a community-wide effort.
For more detailed management information, see the Pest Notes: Cockroaches.
[Adapted from an article published by the Entomological Society of America on August 14, 2024.]
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We have endured multiple years of drought, and are probably in store for more. For many of us, it makes sense to replace all or part of our lawn area with less water-intensive plantings.
Step One: observe and plan. What existing trees and plants do you want to keep or remove? What are the sun and shade patterns within your yard? What types of grass grow in your lawn? Do you want any additional amenities, such as paving or a shade structure? How will you irrigate your new plants?
Step Two: kill your lawn. Homeowners can use two eco-friendly methods to kill their lawns: Solarizing or Sheet Mulching. For detailed instructions on solarizing, see UC IPM Pestnote on solarization. For instructions on sheet mulching, see our Real Dirt blog post on Sheet Composting.
Sheet mulching kills weeds by starving them of light. It takes 6 to 10 months and can be started any time of the year as long as at least three months of growing season are included. Sheet mulching works in sun or shade, and is effective on all grasses, including Bermuda grass, and many annual and perennial weeds. It is left in place permanently; over time, the dead lawn, sheeting, and mulch will break down into soil-enriching compost. Sheet mulching should be placed before new plants are installed if being used alone to kill lawn or weeds. It can be placed after plants are installed if solarizing has been completed first. New hardscape and irrigation should be installed before commencing solarizing or sheet mulching.
Step Three: replant. Whichever method you choose to kill your lawn, time it so that you are ready to replant in the fall, winter, or early spring. The cool temperatures and moist soils of our wet season allow drought tolerant plants to develop the healthy roots they need to thrive with little water during the heat of summer. Taking time to thoroughly kill the grass and waiting until the climate conditions are suitable for new plants will ensure the long-term success of a lawn replacement project.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
And it's double delightful with twins!
Such was the case at the Vacaville Museum Guild's recent Children's Party when two-year-old twins Ford and Wyatt Devine were thumbing through "The Story of the Dogface Butterfly," a children's book written by UC Davis doctoral alumna Fran Keller, a Folsom Lake College professor and a Bohart Museum of Entomology research scientist.
The twins, along with big brother, Buck, 7, were among the youngsters fascinated by the book, which features macro images by Bohart associate Greg Kareofelas and illustrations by Laine Bauer, then a UC Davis student.
It was just one of the many attractions at the annual Children's Party, held Aug. 8 in the museum courtyard.
Not many know that the butterfly's most prevalent habitat is the 40-acre Shutamul Bear River Preserve near Auburn, on a Placer Land Trust conservation site; Kareofelas serves as a docent on the Placer Land Trust tours. (See virtual tour on YouTube). The butterfly is there because its larval host plant, false indigo (Amorpha californica), is there.
Are there dogface butterflies in Vacaville? Yes. The butterfly's breeding grounds include Gates Canyon. (See UC Davis emeritus professor Art Shapiro's website.)
Director of the insect museum is Professor Jason Bond, the Evert and Marion Schlinger Endowed Chair, UC Davis Department of Entomology and Nematology, and associate dean, Agricultural Sciences, UC Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
Meanwhile, Bohart scientists are gearing up for their next open house, set for 1 to 4 p.m., Saturday, Sept. 28. The theme is "Museum ABC's: Arthropods, Bohart and Collecting." All open houses are free and family friendly. Parking is also free. For more information, contact bmuseum@ucdavis.edu or access the website at https://bohart.ucdavis.edu.
![A children's book on the California state insect, the dogface butterfly, draws the interest of twins Ford and Wyatt Devine, 2, of Vacaville.The book was displayed at the Vacaville Museum Guild's Children's Party. (Photo by Kathy Keatley Garvey) A children's book on the California state insect, the dogface butterfly, draws the interest of twins Ford and Wyatt Devine, 2, of Vacaville.The book was displayed at the Vacaville Museum Guild's Children's Party. (Photo by Kathy Keatley Garvey)](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108404.jpg)
- Author: Judy Quan
The excessive heat days we have experienced in Northern California in 2024 may have caused us to look at our landscape trees and shrubs and notice that some are not looking so good. What does that mean? What can be done to help them survive and thrive? The answer often lies in the quality of water management for our trees and shrubs. Since water is such an important aspect, we begin this series on landscape trees and shrubs with a discussion on water management. The main focus will be on the watering of trees; however, that information can be applied to most shrubs and other woody plants.
Water Management - Critical to the Health and Survival of Trees and Shrubs
Symptoms of stress and disease Wilting or yellowing leaves, early leaf loss, twig and branch die-back, and a thinning canopy are symptoms that a tree is under stress.
When, Where, How Much Water – Direct and Critical Impact on Tree Health Reasons for the decline in the health of a woody plant are many, but water management is the most critical aspect to investigate when a plant seems to be under stress and declining. The amount of water has a direct impact on the health of the plant. Inappropriate soil moisture has an important secondary impact in that it can promote pest and disease problems. Poor water management can predispose plants to infection, leaf and fruit diseases. It can also lead to root and crown rot as well as an active infection of oak root fungus.
Water management takes on many aspects. Proper water management promotes healthy plant growth and development.
Factors affecting how much and when to water
Unfortunately, there is no simple answer to the amount of water to give your trees and shrubs.
How much, how fast and how often to water varies widely, depending on soil type, soil drainage, and moisture demand according to the plant species. The water needs of trees and shrubs are affected by the season and weather such as extended and prolonged drought, more extreme heat, and intense, wet winter storms (atmospheric rivers). Newly planted trees and shrubs, young trees, and mature trees have different water needs, but nearly all, including mature trees, need some summer water.
Useful resources for learning more about factors that impact watering practices include those that address:
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Type of trees - related environment and water needs https://selectree.calpoly.edu/
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Look up the watering needs of specific trees https://canopy.org/tree-info/caring-for-trees/trees-and-water/watering-guidelines/
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Look up watering needs of trees, shrubs and other plants by city or region using the UC Davis California Center for Urban Horticulture “enhanced” WUCOLS (Water Use Classification of Landscape Species) Plant Searchable Database
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Add compost to increase the amount of moisture your soil can hold https://mg.ucanr.edu/Gardening/Vegetable/Preparing/SoilImprovement/
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Mulch https://cealameda.ucanr.edu/?blogpost=50517&blogasset=118849
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Learn about Irrigation 101 for Landscape Trees https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=41260
Good watering practices
Knowledge of the water needs of your plants and monitoring the moisture level of your soil will guide you in determining the amount of water needed and how to water.
8 tips on watering trees
Excerpted with minor modifications from Tips on Watering Trees
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Keep tree trunks dry. Trunks should not come into contact with water from sprinklers or hoses.
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Apply the right amount of water at the right time.
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Water newly planted trees regularly for a full season Many newly transplanted landscape trees die from the soil drying out too much between waterings because their root systems are small and need to be kept moist for a full growing season. Water newly planted trees regularly.
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Water newly planted trees, including drought-tolerant species too. This schedule of regularly watering newly planted trees holds true for drought-tolerant species as well as those that require more water. Once plants become well rooted they should be watered less often but for longer periods of time. Established drought-tolerant trees will be able to go longer between waterings than those trees with moderate- or high-water needs
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Water halfway to the dripline and beyond. Since tree roots spread outward as well as downward, water should be applied from mid-dropline and beyond the dripline of the tree.
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Most established trees need water too. Most trees in California need supplemental irrigation above and beyond the naturally occurring rains, especially in times of drought. Water established trees less often but more deeply to encourage deep rooting and structural balance above and below ground. Be very careful if watering established native oaks since summer water can be detrimental to native oaks.
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Trees need to be watered slowly and deeply. If you use a garden hose, apply the smallest trickle of water slowly, moving the hose every few hours to water the entire area around the tree. The deep watering encourages roots to grow downward and helps prevent sidewalk damage.
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Do NOT water trees on the same irrigation/drip system as those used for lawns and groundcovers. The light, frequent watering every few days that is appropriate for lawns/groundcovers discourages the deep growth of tree roots.
Other tips for watering fruit trees and California natives
Watering fruit trees including citrus and avocados
Watering correctly is essential to the production of fruit and allows trees to keep a natural resistance to fungal diseases. This link https://ipm.ucanr.edu/homegarden/irrigating/ has more specific watering information on different trees including citrus, avocados and other fruit trees.
Watering of California natives
The vast majority of California's native plants are well-adapted to California's wet winter and summer dry climate, but even well-established native plants may need an occasional deep watering during hot, dry periods, perhaps one or two deep waterings over the summer. https://calscape.org/watering-native-plants
Tip: Don't water your ceanothus during the summer. Once established, summer watering may kill the plant. There are varieties of salvia that also don't like summer watering. Review watering guidelines by variety.
Watering established native California oak trees
“Even though oaks are known to be drought tolerant, summer irrigation may be beneficial to oak trees, especially during periods of prolonged drought, if water is kept at least 3 m (10 ft.) away from tree root crowns, or applied in the outer two-thirds of the root zone.” https://oaks.cnr.berkeley.edu/summer-irrigation-of-established-oak-trees/
Make sure California Oaks have a chance to dry out between waterings.
Common problems with water management
UC IPM, the statewide integrated pest management program has a very useful and detailed site on environmental disorders that focuses on the water management and pest problems. The information from that site formed the backbone of this section. Too little or too much water, the timing of water irrigation, and the downside of dripping, ponding, spraying water are all covered.
Water deficit
Symptoms: Leaves may droop, yellow, wilt, or drop prematurely. Severe, prolonged water deficit leads to shoot and branch dieback and, in some cases, bark cracking and trunk bleeding may occur. Mild but prolonged moisture deficit results in fewer flowers, fruit, slower growth, smaller leaves and increased sensitivity to pests. Plants stressed by drought are more susceptible to damage from mites, certain leaf-sucking insects, and most wood-boring insects
Management: Deep water your trees and shrubs by trickle watering, watering slowly for perhaps two hours. Water tree away from trunk, midway between trunk and dripline where the leaves end and rain drips off the tree, getting the water down to the roots that are often 12-18 inches or more below the surface.
Even trees that did fine without summer water in past years may need an occasional deep watering every month or two during extended hot weather.
Excess soil moisture
Symptoms: Over-irrigation has symptoms similar to those of underwatering. (See above.) Prolonged exposure to excess moisture results in roots dying, and plants become unable to take up water, resulting in symptoms similar to those of underwatering. Root decay pathogens such as Dematophora and Phytophthora spp. are present in many soils, yet usually become damaging only when excessively wet soil conditions favor them.
Management: Determine the cause of excess water. Soil that holds water too long can be improved by the addition of compost and other organics. The grade that causes water to pool or hold water for a long period can be altered. Change the irrigation schedule to adjust for changing seasons. If flooding of an area happens due to extended rains, drain the area when possible.
Water placement
Water dripping, ponding or spraying near the base of the trunk of a tree or shrub are primary causes of root and crown diseases. Soggy soil around the root collar, where the root and trunk join, promotes. Splashing water spreads fungal spores and splashing wets foliage, promoting leaf and fruit diseases such as anthracnose, brown rot, leaf spots and rust.
Seasonal timing
The seasonal timing of irrigation is important in disease development. Some California native trees may need summer water in drought years, but are sensitive to overwatering. For example, oak root fungus, Armillaria mellea, is present in dead or living roots in many soils, and it becomes active when soils are warm and moist. When people water native oaks frequently during the summer, moist roots and warm soils work together to predispose oaks and many other species to infection and death by oak root fungus.
Resources:
- Center for Landscape and Urban Horticulture
- Canopy - Healthy Trees, Healthy Communities
- Irrigation of trees and shrubs
- Irrigating fruit and shade trees and shrubs
- Landscape Tree Irrigation 101
- Oak Root Fungus
- Online Tools from UC IPM for Plant Problem Identification
- Root and Crown Rot
- Summer Irrigation of Established Oak Trees by UC Oaks
- Tips on Watering Trees
- University of California Integrated Pest Management (UC IPM)
- Water Management and Pest Problems from UC IPM
- Water Use Classification of Landscape Species ( UC Davis WUCOLS)
- UC Oaks - summer-irrigation-of-established-oak-trees/
- Watering Native Plants by Calscape
Have a gardening question? We'll help. You can reach us by:
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Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
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Using our online form.
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By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
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In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.