Marin IJ Archive

Seems like every time I go to the nursery, there are new things to buy – and I’m not talking about the plants. This is especially true when it comes to soil amendments. Some of these packaged materials are helpful. Worm castings are packed with millions of beneficial microbes. Leaf mold boosts nutrients. Biochar, a charcoal-like
substance, improves soil fertility and carbon sequestration. Aged manure from cows and other beasts conditions the soil, improves drainage, and provides macro and micronutrients. Compost, made from decomposed garden and kitchen scraps, enriches soil structure, aeration, and water-holding capacity. 

These are tried and true, research-backed, science-tested amendments that can make a real difference in the health of your soil and garden. 

But what about the other stuff? The vermiculite? The perlite? The peat? What is that stuff, and do you need it? Is it healthy for the garden – and the planet?

Let’s start with peat. Peat moss is a fluffy, absorbent, lightweight brown material you shovel into soil to increase water retention and acidity. For that reason, it has been a mainstay for gardeners growing acid-loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, and camellias. 

Peat moss comes from peat bogs. These are large wetland areas where decaying plant matter called peat has accumulated extremely slowly – just a millimeter a year – for 12,000 years. For you armchair paleontologists, that’s about the time the last ice age was ending. 

But here’s the kicker: peat bogs comprise just 3% of the planet, but they store a third of the world’s carbon. Incredible! That’s more carbon than all the planet’s forests combined. In fact, only the world’s oceans sequester more carbon than the peat bogs. As a result, they are absolutely critical to the health of the Earth’s carbon cycle – the process that regulates the Earth’s climate and supports life. 

I think you know where this is going. Every time peat moss is harvested, carbon is released, habitat is destroyed, C02 is unleashed into the atmosphere, and the risk of a warmer Earth rises. The salt in the wound is that it takes a few millennia for the peat to regenerate. Bottom line? Peat moss is a non-renewable resource. And the harm that could be unleashed if the bogs were heavily stripped is unthinkable. 

It should therefore come as no surprise that some countries have banned the sale of peat moss. Question is, should you join them? 

That’s up to you, but to help nudge you into making the Earth-friendly decision, please consider some of the excellent alternatives. Coconut coir is fast becoming a peat moss alternative because it provides many of the same benefits. Adding compost, pine needles, and oak leaves gradually increases soil acidity.

Next, let’s take a peek at those sacks of vermiculite, the small brown flecks you often see in potting soil, and perlite, the companion white flecks. Vermiculite is a
mineral that improves water and nutrient retention in soil and enhances aeration, which is critical for healthy roots. Perlite excels at improving drainage, which is good for plants that don’t like wet roots. 

These common potting soil bedfellows sound like they were stamped out of a machine, but they are actually natural materials. Vermiculite is a mica-type mineral that’s heated at high temperatures, and perlite is a naturally occurring volcanic glass. Are they healthy for soil? Yes, they work extremely well together in soils meant for starting seeds. Are they an Earth-friendly choice? 

Perlite is a non-renewable resource, although to date, less than one percent has been mined. Vermiculite, on the other hand, requires significant energy for the mining and processing. I guess you’d have to say it’s a mixed bag, but it seems to me that the benefits outweigh the negatives.

Finally, what about those innocent looking bags of sand? Should you mix it into your clay soil? No. Resist the urge. Why? Because mixing clay soil with sand creates
something akin to concrete. Oops!

By Marie Narlock, July 19, 2025

Bugs are the creepy-crawly critters you find in your garden. Scientists divide them into groups. The largest group is insects, such as butterflies, bees, and beetles, which have three pairs of jointed legs and two pairs of wings. Other groups include spiders (arachnids), sowbugs (crustaceans), snails (mollusks), and worms (annelids). While some bugs damage our plants, many beneficial ones protect our gardens by eating the bad bugs.

Lady beetles are the most widely known predatory insect, both as adults and larvae. They form a pest patrol, feeding on plant-eating insects such as aphids. Aphids suck the juice out of our plants and secrete sweet honeydew that attract ants. Another insect, the green lacewing larva – sometimes called “aphid lions”- is a voracious predator capable of eating up to sixty aphids in an hour. Adult lacewings feed on flower nectar and help to pollinate our plants.

Another important garden ally is the nematode - a microscopic parasitic worm - that acts as biological control for many troublesome garden pests. These non-segmented round worms are too small to be seen with the naked eye, but they are a powerful pest management tool. They help control pests like slugs, ants, and beetles that would otherwise devastate your garden. They provide a way to avoid the use of artificial chemicals, such as pesticides. Note, these are not the same as “root knot” nematodes, which are plant parasites that damage the roots of specific plants. 

There are over 20,000 known species of beneficial nematodes. To use them effectively, you must first identify the pest bothering your garden and then choose the corresponding nematode that targets it. You can purchase nematodes online or from your local garden center. Keep refrigerated until ready to use. 

To apply, mix the nematodes with water and apply using a watering can, hose-end sprayer, or pump sprayer. Check the product label for the correct application rates. Quantities can range from the billions to the millions. For example, five million nematodes typically treat approximately 1,600 square feet. 

A common lawn pest is the masked chafer. Its larvae – white C-shaped grubs – feed on grass roots, causing significant lawn damage and dead patches of grass. Even worse, raccoons come to feed on the grubs, tearing up large sections of grass in search of a meal. When beneficial nematodes are applied, they find the grubs and attack, releasing bacteria that kill the pests within 24 – 48 hours. The nematodes then use the grub body as a breeding ground, increasing their population and sustaining pest control.

The best time to apply nematodes is late summer or early fall when the soil temperature is above 60 degrees. Water the lawn before application to ensure the nematodes move through the soil effectively. Apply in the morning or evening for the best results. Keep the soil moist after application to allow the nematodes to establish. Two applications 2 weeks apart stages the life cycle for complete coverage.

Beyond grubs, nematodes can be effective in controlling fleas, cutworms, root weevils, mole crickets, codling moth larvae, thrips, armyworms, and fungus gnats. Each one has specific nematodes that can target these pests.

• Steinernema carpocapsae target cutworms, billbugs, crane flies, and lawn moths.
• Steinernema glaseri and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora target white grubs.
• Steinernema feltiae target thrips

The use of nematodes is safe for people, pets, and plants. Since nematodes are naturally occurring organisms, they do not leave harmful residue in the soil or groundwater.

Remember that certain plants attract and support our garden helpers, so they stick around and do their important job of controlling the bad bugs. Good bugs pollinate our food crops, enrich and fertilize the soil, eat our garbage, and provide food for wildlife. Some give us honey, wax, and silk. The bugs that are food for other animals and regulate the pest populations are our allies in maintaining the web of life in a healthy, earth-friendly garden. 

By Alice Cason, July 12, 2025

There is nothing more relaxing in summer and fall than venturing into the garden to harvest edible greens, herbs, and flowers. In my garden, tomatoes, herbs, berries, and citrus thrive tucked throughout the garden amongst roses and ornamental plants. This year, I have had the fun of planting more edible flowers and Asian greens, all promising vibrant colors and delicious flavors.

Cuisines around the world often favor specific herbs and greens. In that spirit of discovery, I planted a diversity of vegetables and edible flowers readily grown in Marin’s Mediterranean climate. Many edible plants have unrivaled beauty and can be introduced to existing gardens without major upheaval. For example, in a bed of fading bulbs, plant violas, nasturtiums, and scented geraniums, all of which produce edible flowers. Nasturtiums are annual warm-season plants needing a soil temperature of at least 60 degrees to germinate. Blooms are prolific and attract hummingbirds. Both the flowers and leaves of nasturtiums are edible. The peppery tasting leaves make a lovely pesto, and the petals can be added to salads, marmalades, and used as a garnish for bright, eye-popping color effects. Depending on the variety of nasturtium, they can grow in a mound (Tropaeolum minus) or as climbers (Tropaeolum majus).  Next to the nasturtium, I planted violas; sun lovers, tolerating shade but with less bloom. Viola petals are quite flavorful adding sweetness to cakes and appeal to floral ice cubes. Scented geraniums with leaf and bloom fragrances of lemon, peppermint, and rose were planted next. These make lovely additions to baked goods and sugars.  The final addition to the flower beds was calendulas, also known as pot marigolds. These are sun lovers too and tolerate moderate water once germinated. The tallest of this group of edible flowers, calendulas, sometimes grow to 24 inches. Online, you will find recipes for Calendula Confetti Salad, or you can use the petals as garnish.  Calendulas attract bees, bumblebees, and other pollinators, making them good companion plants for tomatoes.

I chose to continue interplanting edible Asian greens under my Japanese maple. Shiso, commonly called Japanese Basil and scientifically Perilla frutescens, was planted amongst my Anise Hyssop and Japanese onions. Anise hyssop leaves and flowers are nice additions to salads. Shiso has ruffled leaves that have an intense spiced flavor, tasting a bit like cinnamon and cloves. The leaves can be green or reddish-purple. On your plate, Shiso pairs well with cucumbers, melons, tomatoes, and sushi. In addition to the leaves, the flowers and seeds of Shiso are very tasty.

Although it is an annual, it freely reseeds itself and has thrived happily in my garden for three years. It makes a great companion plant with tomatoes. Shiso prefers air temperatures above 50°F, consistent watering, and grows to a height of 12 inches. Gorgeous leafy Asian greens have been planted between the smaller Japanese maples. Some varieties can withstand both heat and cold and can be harvested in both winter and summer, including Komatsuna, a scientific name Brassica rapa, which belongs to the Mustard family. It can be eaten much like spinach, raw or cooked. While classified as an annual, plant in spring and in late summer. Komatsuna prefers morning sun and afternoon shade. Its yellow flowers are edible too. To harvest Komatsuna, cut away the outer leaves, leaving the central part of the plant intact, ensuring the regrowth of new leaves. A second harvest is possible, achieved by cutting the stem down an inch above the ground. The stem will re-grow sometimes up to three times. The leaves can be cooked until tender in boiling water, drained, and cooled. Squeeze out excess water and chop the leaves as you would with spinach. Or wrap whole leaves around a filling and garnish with yellow flowers. 

Have some fun this summer and fall planting edible flowers and Asian greens. 

By Anne-Marie Walker, July 5, 2025

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UC Marin Master Gardeners (MMGs) are ready to welcome you to the fair in our new fairground location, new booth, new speaker location (it’s air-conditioned!), and new educational information. We can’t wait to see you!

This year’s Marin County Fair theme is Bug-Tastic! - A theme made for Marin Master Gardeners!  We are all about fostering good bugs and offering exit plans for bad bugs. Visit the MMG booth to learn about beneficial insects and ones that are damaging, and how to deal with those destructive critters. 

We’ve moved to a new location just east of the Veterans Memorial Auditorium in Bug Land! Look for the white and blue Master Gardener banner with the yellow poppy.  

What can you expect to find in the MMG booth?

• Educational elements focusing on good bugs and bad bugs – how to encourage the good and discourage the bad!
• The Beetle Lady (https://www.beetlelady.com/) will have beetle cases on display, providing equal parts education and awe!
• Meet pollinator plants and California natives live and in person. (See something you like? Don’t miss the plant sale from 9 am – 11 am, Monday, July 7th – come early for the best selection!)
• How working together, we can save the planet, one garden at a time. 

Why should you visit the MMG booth?

• Ask a Master Gardener: From 11 am to 7 pm daily, UC certified Master Gardeners will be available to answer your most perplexing gardening questions. Ask us for low-water, earth-friendly, fire-smart ideas. Query us about your garden problems, fruit tree challenges, how and when to prune; we’re here to help!
• Be informed about MMG programs: farmers’ markets, outreach, school gardens, water walks, and more!
• Discover how to attract pollinators to your garden.
• Learn how you can become a Marin Master Gardener!

On Children’s Day, July 2nd, the MMG booth will offer a scavenger hunt – search for hidden items while learning about plants and bugs from 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Looking to chill out while learning good gardening practices? This year, our speakers will be located in the Exhibit Hall, which offers air-conditioned comfort. 

MMG Exhibit Hall Speakers – noon to 12:45 daily

• July 2 - David Ross and Sharna Brockett will offer Fundamentals of Aesthetic Pruning. They will demonstrate techniques to shape plants in harmony with their natural structure.
• July 3 - Judy Orsini will provide guidance for growing luscious strawberries. She’ll offer tips on recommended varieties, growing requirements, and how to plant, care for, and propagate strawberries.
• July 4 - Are you aware that Monarch butterflies are in danger of extinction here in California? Peter Noras will discuss their life cycle needs and practical steps that we can take to help them survive. 
• July 5 - Want to grow dahlias? Paula Jaffe is the person to give you advice!  Learn how to successfully grow large, strong dahlias in our Marin clay soil. Paula grows more than 80 dahlias on two-thirds of an acre in Tiburon. Her "Dazzling Dahlias” were featured in an eight-page spread in Better Homes and Gardens.
• July 6 - Interested in bird watching and attracting them to your garden? Did you know that more than 500 species of birds have been seen in Marin County? Paul Mauceli is an avid birdwatcher who will offer suggestions to help you build a simple, sustainable, and bird-friendly habitat garden.

We are all about sharing good gardening practice, inviting pollinators and good bugs to your garden, and helping your garden thrive with the least toxic pest prevention products possible. Learn more about Integrated Pest Management (IPM), an approach that helps you solve pest problems with minimum impact on people, animals, and the environment here: https://ucanr.edu/site/uc-marin-master-gardeners/integrated-pest-management.

Marin Master Gardeners are looking forward to meeting you and sharing our knowledge to help you garden with your best bug buddies!

Visit our Marin County Fair website, https://ucanr.edu/site/uc-marin-master-gardeners/marin-county-fair, to learn more about our speakers and see what plants will be on display and available at the plant sale on July 7th.

By Jane Scurich, June 28, 2025

On a warm, dry summer day, the leaves on some of my plants had a sprinkling of light dots. Some were turning an unhealthy, ugly bronze color. The underside of the leaves revealed webbing, indicating that spider mites had infested the plants. Among the most common pests in the garden, spider mites can attack more than 200 plant species. Luckily, there are easy steps to take to control them.

Spider mites are not insects, but members of the arachnid class, along with spiders and ticks. They have eight legs and two body parts (insects have six legs and three body parts). 

Spider mites make fine webbing on the underside of leaves, distinguishing them from all other types of mites and small insects such as aphids and thrips, which can also infest leaf undersides. They spin webbing to protect themselves from natural enemies and the weather. Then they suck cell contents from leaves, damaging plants including roses, fruit trees, vegetables, berries, vines, azaleas, dahlias, tomatoes, houseplants and ornamental plants.

These pests increase during the dry months of June to September. They prefer hot, dusty conditions and are usually first found on trees or plants adjacent to dusty roadways or garden edges. Plants suffering from a lack of water are more vulnerable. 

To the naked eye, spider mites look like slight moving dots. I held a piece of white paper below an affected plant and shook a few leaves so some spider mites would drop off. They scooted around rapidly. They are tiny – less than 1/20” long. 

Spider mites live in colonies; a single colony may contain hundreds of pests. Populations can multiply to huge numbers quickly; a generation can be completed in less than a week under the right conditions: hot weather, low humidity, and dust and dirt on leaf surfaces. 

While a small number of mites isn’t usually a problem, high populations can damage plants, especially herbaceous ones. At first, the damage shows up as a stippling of light dots. As their feeding continues, the leaves turn yellowish or reddish and drop off. Damage may increase if plants are under water stress. 

On ornamentals, spider mites may even kill plants when their populations become very high. Loss of leaves on fruit trees may impact next year’s crop. For annual vegetable crops, the loss of leaves can significantly affect yield and lead to sunburning. Spider mites can cause direct damage to sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked.

To control spider mites, start by keeping your plants adequately irrigated. Water-stressed plants are most likely to become good homes for spider mites. 

Spider mites have many natural enemies that limit their numbers in many landscapes and gardens, especially when undisturbed by pesticide sprays. One of the most helpful is predatory mites. Other insects are also good predators: predatory thrips, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs. 

Cultural practices can also significantly impact spider mites. Dusty conditions often lead to outbreaks. Apply water to pathways and other dusty areas at regular intervals. Midseason washing of trees and vines with water to remove dust may also help prevent serious late-season mite infestations. Forceful spraying of plants with water should reduce spider mite numbers adequately, especially on the underside of leaves. Remove fallen leaves, branches, fruit, and weeds that may serve as a host for spider mites. 

If more control is necessary, use an insecticidal soap or oil in your spray, such as neem, canola, or cottonseed oils. Be sure to test the product on one or two plants in advance to ensure it won’t damage them. If you have a spider mite infestation now, prune out damaged portions of plants and those with significant webbing. 

As the seasons change, with cooler temperatures and rain, spider mite populations should decline rapidly – until next summer. Then, take preventive measures early to keep spider mites at a manageable level.

By Julie McMillan, June 21, 2025

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Leaf miners are just one of the many pests that affect our gardens. The two leaf miner types most often found in Marin are the Liriomyza spp, a mostly black & yellow fly with clear wings, and Phytomyza, a blackish gray fly on top with a cream- colored abdomen. Females of both these genera insert tiny eggs into the leaves of numerous vegetables and ornamentals so that their larvae, when they hatch, can feed within the leaf tissue. The larvae use their mouthparts to rupture plant cells, weaving long serpentine trails called mines through the leaf. Adult female flies also damage plants by piercing into leaves with their ovipositor and sucking the sap. 

Identifying signs that the pest you are dealing with is a leaf miner are the presence of larval mines and, when populations are high, stippling due to females puncturing the leaves to feed and lay eggs. These mines appear as white, gray, or paler in color wavy lines, tunnels, trails, or blotches just under the surface of leaves and soft stems. In most cases, however, leaf miners cause little damage, and control is not necessary. Injuries are mainly cosmetic, so treatment decisions are based on the plant's appearance.

Flies emerge in spring, usually in late April or early May. The females lay their eggs typically around midday. Larvae are active for about two to three weeks. They drop to the ground next to plants to transform into pupae, surviving over the winter as pupae. Many generations can occur each year as the entire life cycle can be completed in three weeks when the weather is warm.

Leaf miners are most often found on seedlings or transplants. Inspect new plants and seedlings for signs of leaf mines before planting. And then, only plant in areas of your garden where you have not had an infestation. If you have had an infestation of leaf miners, prune and destroy any affected leaves on infected plants. Remove old plants at the end of the growing season.  

Avoid pesticide use, as it suppresses parasitoid activity. Almost always, outbreaks are associated with pesticide use, as insecticide applications differentially destroy natural enemies. If the number of leaf mines increases, Spinosad can be an effective option if applied to leaves at times that coincide with periods when egg laying occurs, usually shortly after leaves have expanded in spring. 

Notably, leaf miners are resistant to many insecticides and difficult to spray directly. It is advisable to keep your garden area free of weeds such as chickweed, lamb's quarters, nightshade, and plantain, as this reduces their availability as a leaf miner food source. Even though the mines that leaf miners leave on plants make them easy to identify as the culprit, it is critical that gardeners remember to correctly identify the insect causing the damage before applying any insecticide.

Leaf miners have many natural enemies in California, including parasitic wasps, predatory bugs, spiders, earwigs, and ants. Two of their natural enemies, parasitic wasps and hummingbirds, are particularly good at reducing the population of leaf miners. Other parasites attack leaf miners, but their feeding habits protect them from most predators. Beneficial nematodes attack the pupae of leaf miners in the soil. Birds and insects feed on them.

Plant plants that attract natural enemies or predators of leaf miners, e.g., insectary plants, which increase the abundance and effectiveness of natural enemies that help suppress pest populations. Insectary plants, e.g., fennel, buckwheat, and marigolds, can host alternate prey that will feed the natural enemies and keep them abundant locally. Avoid the use of pyrethroids to disrupt leaf miner biological control.

Liriomyza spp., commonly known as the American serpentine leaf miner, has a wide range of host plants. The measures cited above are a good place to start to prevent or address evidence of leaf miner activity in your garden.  

By Martha Proctor, June 14, 2025

Apple trees are some of the loveliest in the world, as are their close relatives, the crabapples. Their blossoms in spring are intoxicating, and no wonder—they belong to the Rosaceae family, which includes roses and strawberries.

Pollinators like bees and bumblebees are drawn to the fragrant blooms. If a blossom is pollinated, a small apple will begin to form in late spring.

Since most apple trees require cross-pollination, a crabapple tree, being botanically similar, can pollinate an apple tree—and vice versa—if they are planted within 100 feet of each other.

You might be surprised to learn, as I was a few years ago, that Northern California is home to a beautiful native crabapple.

The Pacific Crabapple

The Pacific crabapple (Malus fusca), native to the Bay Area up to Alaska, is particularly easy to grow. It is more resistant to disease and tolerant of heavy clay soil. In my garden, I've found it can even thrive in standing water during winter and endure dry conditions in the summer. This shrub can grow up to 30 feet high and 20 feet wide, but can be pruned to a smaller size. Deer might nibble the leaves, and birds enjoy the small fruit, which is about the size of a cherry. Though crabapples are sour, they are edible straight off the tree. With their high pectin content, they make a delicious jelly. Like apples, they are rich in fiber, vitamins, and antioxidants.

Apple Varieties for Marin

Choosing the best apple trees to grow requires some planning. The climate and microclimate must be considered. Apple trees need at least six to eight hours of sunlight, but they also require "chill hours"—a period when temperatures range from 32°F to 45°F. Trees that need a low to medium number of chill hours grow best in Marin.

A good starting apple to grow here is the Gravenstein. This heirloom variety was once the most popular fruit grown in California before grapes took over. Still widely grown in Sonoma, it's known for its satisfying crunch and flavor and makes excellent pies.

Other varieties that thrive in Marin include Anna, Fuji, Gala, Granny Smith, and Jonagold. Be sure to check your local nursery for information on chill hours and whether the variety is suitable for your specific microclimate.

You might want to consider a multi-graft variety if you have a small space. One tree in my garden has three different types of apples. This tree, now over 30 years old, is incredibly productive. Multi-graft trees are more expensive but work well for cross-pollination in smaller gardens.

Growing a Little Apple Tree

Emily Dickinson once said that heaven was an apple just out of reach. Nowadays, it's possible to grow apples within easy reach. Pruning techniques help keep trees small, and you can buy trees grafted onto dwarf rootstock (8–10 feet tall) or semi-dwarf rootstock (10–20 feet tall). A dwarf tree typically takes only two to three years to bear fruit.

Planting an apple tree

In our Mediterranean climate, an apple tree can be planted in the fall, winter, or early spring. Fall planting gets the roots established early. Winter planting means the tree is dormant, and you can find deciduous, bare-root trees that are less expensive and easy to plant. Just remember not to plant in soggy soil. If planting in spring, make sure to plant before the last frost.

Apples are easy to grow, but there are some diseases and pests. Many of these can be avoided by pruning the tree so that it gets good airflow. Another tip is to thin your apples on the branch to one every six inches. This will lessen the chance of coddling moths and give you fewer but larger apples to enjoy.

Visit the UC Marin Master Gardener website for more information on planting, pruning, and maintaining apple trees. 

By Pamela Noensie, June 7, 2025

These living jewels in our gardens give us many gifts besides the joy of watching them in their pursuit of life, drinking nectar from flowers or feeders, nabbing an insect in the air, chasing another hummer from their territory, or flying acrobatics to impress the females. They bring the gift of efficient pollination by visiting hundreds of flowers daily to supply enough energy to support their metabolism. They devour insects for 80% of their diet.

Hummingbirds are mostly very small birds with long narrow beaks and fast wings that beat 60-80 times a second. They can fly forward or hover and excel at flying backward. Their tiny feet allow them to perch or scoot sideways but not to walk. This design eliminates drag in flight. Along with swifts, they belong to the order Apodiformes, meaning "footless". 

Hummingbirds measure about 5 centimeters and weigh about 2-20 grams, and their speed and agility are amazing. These talents may give them the confidence needed to survive in a world so much bigger and, for some, to migrate thousands of miles. The Oholone tribe of Santa Clara Valley named Mt. Umuhnum for the word meaning "resting place of the hummingbird."

The three species of hummingbirds that live or migrate through Marin are Anna's, which are year-round residents on the West Coast; Allen's, which arrive in early winter; and Rufous, which just passes through, spending summer in Alaska and winter in Mexico. 

Anna's hummingbirds are gray on the front and iridescent green on the back. Males have glittering magenta heads, while females have only a few bright patches on their throats. The colors tease, appearing black, magenta, or green depending on the angle viewed. The male Anna's hummingbird is famous for his song, but he also produces a remarkable sound with his tail feathers.

Allen's Hummingbirds have rusty red flanks with green backs. They breed along the coast from Southern California to Oregon. They are closely related to the Rufous Hummingbird and similar in appearance.

Rufous Hummingbirds fly 3,900 miles for one of the longest known hummingbird migratory flights from Alaska to Mexico. Other hummers that either fly through or reside in California are the Black-chinned, Calliope, and Costa’s hummingbirds.

Male hummingbirds court females by soaring upwards and then diving at high speed, which ends in a loud squeak produced by spreading their tail. The female is the sole nest builder and caregiver of the babies. She builds a cup-like nest woven with a spider web, plants down and lichen, and lays two eggs about the size of jellybeans. The babies are fed nectar, small insects, and spiders.

To attract these birds to our gardens, we must provide habitat, food, and water. This means growing colorful blooming nectar-producing plants available all year long. Hummers are attracted to red. Provide clean water and do not use pesticides. Feeders can be used year-round but must be kept clean and free from ants and bees. 

Here are some nectar plants that hummingbirds find irresistible. Two Manzanitas, Arctostaphylos desiflora, bloom in fall and winter, and the groundcover A. Emerald Carpet blooms from winter into spring when few plants are in bloom. There are many choices for spring and summer blooming plants: Western Columbine, Aquilegia Formosa, Pitcher sage, Lepechinia fragrans, two Honeysuckle vines, Lonicera hispidula, and the orange spring bloomer L. ciliosa. 

Many salvias bloom in spring and summer. Some that attract hummingbirds are Salvia clevelandii, S. spathacea, known as the hummingbird sage, and S. amistad, which blooms into fall. The plant known as Orange Bunny Ears, Cuphea Strybing Sunset, blooms almost constantly. California fuchsia, Epilobium canum, is a summer and fall bloomer. 

Some succulent blooms hummingbirds appreciate are Fox Tail Agave, A. attenuate, Torch Aloe, A. camperi, Live Forever, Dudleya farinose, and Red Hot Poker, Kniphofia. 

For more plants, go to UC Marin Master Gardeners Hummingbird plants. https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/plants/pollinator_habitats/

By Sara O'Keefe, May 31, 2025

Master Gardeners enthusiastically support finding homes for succulents in your home garden. Once reserved for arid climates, succulents have proven resilient and adaptable. Including succulents in your water-efficient garden makes creating a dynamic, biodiverse, and pollinator-friendly garden easier. The Falkirk Demonstration Gardens include a stunning Succulent Garden showcasing many species and their uses. The garden also features bromeliads, a sub-category of succulents.

Most succulents originate from low-rainfall regions, making them ideal for Marin gardens. Their ability to store water in their thick, fleshy leaves, stems, or roots allows them to survive prolonged droughts, making them perfect for water-wise gardening in California’s Mediterranean climate.

Designing with succulents follows the same principles as planning any garden space. Consider soil, irrigation, lighting, and thoughtful design.

Soil  While succulents are highly tolerant of poor soils, they love a nurturing home like any plant.  Much of our local soil is clay, and succulents do not like to sit in clay.  You can amend your soil with organic matter or plant in raised beds and pots.

Watering Succulents can survive long periods without irrigation, they appreciate occasional deep watering for a lush look. Water deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry between waterings. When integrating succulents with other plants, ensure their neighbors have similar water needs. 

Light Needs Like all plants, succulents have specific light requirements. Aloes and many crassulas thrive in full sun, but too much intense sunlight can burn them. Shady spots suit crassula multicava, haworthias, and gasterias, but not most other succulents.

Design Tips  As you plan succulent placement, ask yourself about colors, size, textures, and contrasts.  You would not want to put a spiky succulent next to where you sit or walk.  The variety of colors in succulents is abundant, so have fun with them. Scale is important.  If you are planting in a landscape, consider larger varieties in the back, medium-sized plants in the middle, and maybe a creeper in the front.  In pots, thrillers (larger or taller plants) go in the middle, chillers (medium-sized plants) go around them, and spillers (hanging plants) go in front so they can drape over.  Smooth or spiky leaves may like a more textured plant next to them to help show them off.

Maintenance Succulents are low-maintenance, but a few tasks help them thrive. The UC IPM suggests removing dead leaves to prevent pests and rotating potted succulents for even growth. If a succulent becomes leggy, prune it back to encourage fresh growth. The best time to trim your succulents to keep a more compact shape is in early spring, so they can quickly restore themselves during summer’s rapid growth.  You can also take a cutting from the stems and create new plants by re-rooting them. 

Join Us for the Succulent Sale! The Marin Master Gardeners are hosting their annual succulent sale on Saturday, June 14, from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. at the Falkirk Cultural Center’s rear parking lot on Mission Street in San Rafael. There will be individual plants, potted arrangements, and bromeliads for sale. Experienced Master Gardeners will be on hand to answer your questions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5uRa4Shya0&t=2s

By incorporating succulents into your garden, you conserve water and create a beautiful, resilient landscape. Whether you're a novice or an experienced gardener, the sale offers a chance to find unique varieties and gain expert advice. We hope to see you there!

By Dot Zanotti Ingels, May 24, 2025

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Is your yard filled with compacted clay soil and just the thought of attempting to grow vegetables and flowers seems daunting? Or perhaps you’re searching for a raised bed to avoid a lot of bending and stooping. Have you considered trough gardening? 

Galvanized livestock water troughs, also known as stock troughs, can be used to create attractive, sturdy, non-rusting, and durable container gardens.  

Advantages of troughs

• Unlike wooden raised beds, no assembly is required, and the galvanized metal will not rot.
• Troughs have metal bottoms to deter burrowing animals.
• Troughs are available in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit your available space.
• Taller troughs are helpful for gardeners with mobility issues, help discourage wildlife from invading, and offer deeper, cooler soil.
• Visualize your landscape filled with multiple circular troughs, or a series of rectangular troughs, or one statement trough. 

Getting started:

• Identify an area in your garden where the trough(s) can be placed. Measure carefully. Consider the amount of sunlight available. Tomatoes, peppers, and many other veggies and flowers require six hours of direct sunlight per day to thrive.
• Identify a convenient water source: will you install drip irrigation or hand watering? Plan to water early in the day to avoid leaf pest problems.
• Level the area for the trough(s). Consider installing a layer of gravel under and around the trough. Elevate the trough slightly with tiles or bricks to facilitate drainage.
• Shop for galvanized troughs at farm stores, garden centers, hardware stores, and online.
• Consider plants you plan to grow and ensure the trough is deep enough to accommodate the roots. Tomatoes, beans, squash, and potatoes need a soil depth of 16 – 18 inches.
• Drainage is absolutely essential! Troughs have one spigot, which will not suffice! Turn the trough upside down on a drop cloth to capture the metal filings. Using a 1/2-inch bit or hole punch, create multiple holes horizontally and vertically across the bottom. Wear protective eye covering and sturdy gloves while drilling. Dispose of the filings in the trash.
• Insert a layer of ¼ inch hardware cloth or screening to discourage soil falling out and/or clogging the holes. 

Soil

• This is the perfect opportunity to start your garden with rich soil – no more frustration with dense, nutritionally barren soil!
• Determine the amount of soil, compost, and optional amendments needed. Bulk soil is much more economical than bagged soil. You can use a truck or have soil delivered. Here’s a quick soil calculator: https://www.inchcalculator.com/soil-calculator/.
• Purchase high-quality, nutrition-rich potting mix. Consider a mixture of soil, compost and amendments.
• Fill the trough to the brim and water well a day or more before planting. The soil will settle dramatically. 

Pest management

• One advantage of elevated container gardening is the ability to get up close and personal with your plants. Take time to observe your garden. Are there nibbling insects on the leaves? Is there mildew?
• Deadhead your plants frequently and clean up any debris that has fallen in the container.
• Don't over-fertilize, as this can encourage rapid growth, which attracts pests.
• If you find insects on your plants, treat them immediately with the least toxic method. For example, you can hose off aphids with a strong stream of water, hand-pick slugs and snails, and dispose of them. You can also hang yellow sticky strips to catch whiteflies and plant yarrow, dill, cosmos, and alyssum to attract beneficial insects.

Additional considerations

• Once in place and filled, large troughs will be quite heavy and may require total emptying to relocate. If you plan to move the container, add rollers to the trough before filling it.
• Container plants require more frequent watering and fertilizing. 

The UC Marin Master Gardener website is brimming with valuable information to get your trough garden off to a fabulous start! Visit https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/ and search under Basics, Plants, Care, and Edibles. Happy gardening!

By Jane Scurich, May 17, 2025