Posts Tagged: Pests

Extreme weather accelerates nitrate pollution in groundwater

Extreme weather spurred by climate change, including droughts and heavy rains, may increase the risk of nitrates from fertilizers ending up in groundwater, according to a recent study from researchers at the University of California, Davis. The study found heavy rains after a drought caused nitrates to seep 33 feet under farm fields in as little as 10 days. The study was published in Water Resources Research.

“The conventional wisdom was that it could take several weeks to years for nitrates to move from the crop root zones to reach groundwater,” said corresponding author Isaya Kisekka, a professor in the Departments of Land, Air and Water Resources and Biological and Agricultural Engineering. “We found these extreme events, such as California's atmospheric rivers, are going to move nitrate more quickly.”

In this study, different methods were used to measure how much nitrate, a component of nitrogen fertilizer, was seeping down through the soil in a tomato and cucumber crop near Esparto, California. Scientists conducted their research from 2021 until 2023 when California was experiencing periods of drought followed by atmospheric rivers. They measured nitrate during both the growing seasons and the rainy seasons.

Drought can leave more nitrogen in soil

Previous studies have shown about 40% of nitrogen fertilizer used for vegetables isn't absorbed by the plants but remains in the soil. During droughts, crops don't use nitrogen efficiently, leading to excess nitrogen in the soil. This study found that if a drought is then followed by heavy rainfall, that sudden burst of water causes nitrate to seep in groundwater more quickly. The nitrate concentration in the shallow groundwater exceeded the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency maximum contaminant level of 10 milligrams per liter for drinking water.

“In California, we often say we swing between droughts and floods,” said Kisekka. “These extreme events that come with climate change are going to make the risk of these chemicals ending up in our drinking water much more severe.”

Groundwater is the primary source of drinking water for most of California's Central Valley. In some regions, such as the Tulare Lake Basin, nearly one-third of drinking and irrigation wells exceed the EPA's safe nitrate level. High nitrate levels in drinking water can increase health risks, especially for young children. It may also increase the risk of colorectal cancer.

Need for real-time soil nitrate monitoring

Central Valley farmers are required to report to the Regional Water Board how much nitrogen they applied to their field and how much was removed as part of the crop's yield. The study compared different ways of monitoring when nitrate from fertilizers seep into groundwater. Kisekka said the results highlight the need for affordable, real-time soil nitrate monitoring tools to help farmers manage fertilizer use efficiently.

By using conservation practices that limit leftover nitrates in the crop's root zone after harvest, farmers can help reduce nitrate contamination in groundwater.  

This study's data will also help improve a model called SWAT, which is used to track nitrate seepage into groundwater across California's Central Valley. This effort is part of the Central Valley Water Board's program to regulate irrigated farmlands.

Other UC Davis authors include Iael Raij Hoffman, Thomas Harter and Helen Dahlke.

The study was supported by the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service through its Conservation Effects Assessment Project. The national project is designed to assess the effectiveness of conservation practices across different watersheds. The study also had support from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture.

Upcoming Citrus Meetings

Attached Files CRS Annoucement October 2 2024
Local Citrus Round Table Agenda AAIE
Workshop on the Biology and Identification of Phytoseiid Predatory Mites in Agriculture
Citricola Scale Field Day Announcement - September 24 2024
Fall Citrus Meeting at Lindcove

Photo: Wax Scale, Ceroplastes ceriferus

scale Ceroplastes

The Invasion of the Voles

You really do not want voles (also called meadow mice) moving into your garden. They are larger than a house mouse or deer mouse but do not quite reach the size of an adult gopher or rat. Although it is said that they can mature to 5–8 inches long including the tail, they are most commonly on the smaller side of the range. With their charming pudgy shape, beady black eyes, small ears, soft gray/brown fur, and rather short and oddly furry tail, their appearance could be thought of as somewhat cute or endearing. That is, until you experience how quickly they can lay waste to your beloved garden.

When they are not ravaging your garden plants, these rodents spend much of their time hiding in their burrows. They are most likely to be seen during the cooler parts of the day such as dawn and dusk, when they dash from one burrow to another, or scurry from dining on your favorite plant into the safety of their burrows. The burrows have openings that are 1 ½ to 2 inches wide. There are often obvious runways from the burrows where soil is trampled down by their repeated scampering back and forth. Voles will happily burrow into both mulch and soil, and where there are dense weeds or long grasses (a favored habitat), voles will create distinctive tunnels through the vegetation.

 

Vole populations regularly go through cycles of low to high numbers. Their numbers generally peak each 3 to 6 years or so, but don't count on being able to guess when the next vole invasion will occur. These cycles are not predictable. Their numbers can increase to staggering amounts during a population explosion, soaring to as many as several thousand per acre.

If you have voles in your garden, you already know they eat a very wide variety of plants. Unlike rats and mice that are out and about wreaking havoc at night, voles are active both day and night, and year-round. Also, unlike rats and mice who have favorite foods and tend to go after sweet, ripe fruits and the most succulent vegetables, voles are not terribly picky. They will eat a wide variety of plants including zucchini, cucumber, green bean, tomato, and artichoke. Basil, dill and parsley are some herb plants that may be there one day and gone the next. Flowers such as marigolds, cosmos, yarrow, and sunflower are also part of their menu plan.

 

Voles do take an occasional break from their feeding frenzy to breed and can have 5 to 10 litters of offspring each year. They can have 3–6 young at a time. One redeeming quality is their short lifespan of just a few months to a year, and the fact that after a season of super high numbers, the population tends to go back to normal.

There are several effective control methods such as habitat modification (make the area less hospitable to them), trapping (setting many, many mouse traps), and exclusion (creating impassable barriers around your garden, your garden beds, or even individual plants).

Vole management
Habitat modification is an effective way to reduce vole damage in the landscape. Remove weeds, heavy mulch, and dense vegetative cover to reduce their food sources and expose them to predators. Voles prefer not to feed in the open so 4-foot buffer strips of open ground can help protect trees or other plants.

Because of the large numbers of voles that can be present during a population explosion, exclusion is often the most important option. Wire hardware cloth with ¼ inch or smaller mesh makes a good barrier if it is at least 12 inches tall. Make sure it surrounds the plants completely and bury it into ground 6 to 10 inches deep. Metal roof flashing, sold in hardware stores, makes a very effective barrier. It comes in rolls with varying widths. Unlike gophers, who dig deep burrows, voles usually dig down only a few inches. They are not very athletic and don't climb or jump very well like rats can, so barriers don't have to be terribly tall to be effective.

Trapping can be effective if vole numbers are low or they are in a small area, but difficult when the population is high. The key is to use many mouse traps at the same time. For detailed directions on how to place traps, see the link below.

Voles are an important part of the natural food chain. They are prey for a variety of predators including hawks, crows, owls, snakes, raccoons, bobcats, foxes, coyotes, opossums, and domestic cats. They may not keep vole populations adequately controlled near homes because of their reluctance to hunt close to homes.

There are toxic baits available, but care must be taken to ensure the safety of children, pets, and nontarget animals such as the predators listed above. See the link below for more information.

This UC IPM (integrated pest management) link is an excellent source for information on identifying and managing voles:
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/voles/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0

This link will help you determine whether damage to your yard is due to voles, gophers or moles:
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=49119

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (SMH)

Vole damage to root crown and lower bark of a tree. Credit: Jack Kelly Clark, UC IPM

Photo of vole damage at base of a tree

Vole damage to turf showing burrows and runways. Credit: Terrell P. Salmon, UC IPM

Photo of vole damage to turf

Hardware cloth barrier. Credit: S. Hoyer

Photo of hardware cloth protecting a plant from voles

Because they cannot climb the metal sides, your plants can be safe from voles in beds like these. Credit: S. Hoyer

Photo of metal sides protecting veggie bed from voles

Another very effective option is to add an (at least 12-inch tall) metal flashing barrier to wooden raised beds. Credit: S. Hoyer

Photo of metal flashing protecting veggie garden from voles

Lawn-pocalypse! Surviving Drought

Ah, summer! The season of sunburns, pool parties, and… lawn droughts. If your once lush, green carpet now looks like a crunchy brown doormat, you're not alone. Let's dive into why your yard is staging a dramatic death scene and what you can do to...

Bermuda grass and weeds overtaking drought stressed turf grass.

A patch of former lawn, mostly dead, with a few green weeds and Bermudagrass

What To Do About White Grubs in Your Vegetable Beds

It's Spring, and many gardeners are turning with anticipation to their vegetable gardening beds and thinking about summertime harvesting and feasting. If you're one of them, you may find an unexpected surprise of white grubs just below the surface when you start to prepare your soil for planting.

Although we typically think of grubs as being specific to lawns, where their root feeding can cause brown patches, they also show up in vegetable beds. Most of what we call grubs are the larvae of the Masked Chafer beetle. They are whitish with brown heads and legs, and when fully grown are about 3/4” long and c-shaped. This time of year they are just starting to migrate upward in the soil from about 8” deep where they have overwintered.

Unless there is a significant infestation, the best control for grubs is to handpick them from the bed as soon as you see them and leave them for the birds to find. If there are too many for hand-picking, another option is to apply beneficial nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora), which are tiny parasitic roundworms that enter the grub's body and kill it within a few days. Beneficial nematodes are often available at local nurseries.

Beneficial nematodes should be applied in the summer and early fall when the grubs are young, and are most effective when applied to soil that is over 60°F. The nematodes move through moist (not soggy) soil, so it's important to irrigate both before and after application. A second application about two weeks after the first will help with successful control. Keep in mind that beneficial nematodes are killed by light and heat, so it can be a good idea to apply them in the cooler, evening hours.

For more information on beneficial nematodes and how to apply them in your vegetable beds, please see our Pest Note at https://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/innem.html

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (RDH)

 

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