I started buying fancy heirloom beans from Napa merchant Rancho Gordo, and my family rapidly became big fans. Besides the flavor and texture they bring to the table, beans are nutritionally dense, packing impressive amounts of protein, complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and phytochemicals.

About the same time I started eating more beans, I learned about the benefits that legumes provide to the soil. Beans belong to the same plant family as peas, alfalfa, runner beans and favas. These legumes have a unique relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria that live in nodules on their roots. The bacteria collect nitrogen from the air rather than the soil, so these plants need a lot less nitrogen fertilizer than many other vegetables.

Last year I decided to grow a few different kinds of shelling beans, both for the pleasure of producing my own supply as well as for the benefit of my vegetable patch. Choosing varieties was pretty simple: I chose beans that we like to eat. We grew flageolet, Christmas limas, tepary, runner beans and black valentine beans, plus an unnamed variety that a friend gave me from seed she had saved.

Just like green beans, shelling beans can be vining or bush types. Although commercial growers let the vines tangle on the ground, I wanted mine trellised for easier tending and harvesting. Since most of the beans I planted did not come from a traditional seed packet but from the specialty bean store, I looked online to find out which ones would climb and which would be bushy.

Beans need warm soil to germinate—at least 60°F, but 75°F to 85°F is better.  In my Napa location, the soil warmed up toward the end of May. I planted beans from May 30 until June 14, placing them about an inch deep and spacing them two to three inches apart in double rows about a foot apart. For the bush types I didn’t remove any seedlings; I thinned the vining types to be four to six inches apart in the rows. I also set up sturdy supports for the pole beans when I sowed them so as not to disturb the roots later on. Seeds germinated within two weeks.

Birds can be a problem at the sprouting stage. I covered the new sprouts with berry baskets to prevent the birds from eating them. You could also use floating row cover until the plants are established.

Beans are not difficult to grow. They require regular watering and perhaps some help in finding their way up the trellis. Snails, slugs and earwigs like them, so be on the watch for these pests.  In areas that get summer rain, beans can succumb to bacterial and fungal disease. Water at ground level to prevent these problems.

Shelling beans can take anywhere from 70 to 120 days to mature fully. In my garden last year, most of the varieties started to dry out in September. For the bush types, when about half the plants were starting to brown, I cut off all the plants and spread them on a sheet to finish drying. I laid them in a warm, sunny spot during the day and brought them in at night so that the dew would not dampen them. When the beans are dry enough, the pods will shatter easily. Placing the pods in a sack and beating it will release most of the beans.

For the vining types, I harvested all the brown dry pods daily and left them in baskets to get thoroughly dry. Guests and grandchildren enjoyed shelling the beans, but I also could have threshed the beans by the bag method.

Once the beans were shelled, I let them dry some more before storing in glass jars. If they are not fully dry, they can rot during storage. By the end of October, all of my beans were harvested and stored.

We have been enjoying those beans all winter. This summer, I’ll grow our favorites from last year and try some new ones, too. After all, there are several hundred types I haven’t tried yet.

Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Container Gardening” on Saturday, May 18, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office (address below). Learn to grow mobile gardens that take advantage of the best sites in your yard or home.  Discover the best containers, soils and locations for your plants to prosper.  Online registration (credit card only) Mail in registration (cash or check only)

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?

Probably I will repeat many of our favorites, but I will also try a few new ones. Which types to choose?  There are so many factors to consider. 

Do I want to try a new variety for cooking and preserving, or for eating fresh from the garden? I have plenty of room for another tomato plant, but those with more limited space should consider whether a variety is suited to small spaces or containers.

Tomatoes are classified as either determinate or indeterminate based on their growth habits. Determinate tomatoes tend to be bushy in appearance. They grow to a certain height, generally three to five feet, and bear most of their fruit within a four- to six-week period. Determinate tomatoes are often chosen for canning since they yield so much at once.

Indeterminate tomatoes grow and bear fruit all summer, until the arrival of frost. These types need the support of trellises, stakes or cages to keep them from sprawling on the ground, where the fruit tends to rot.

Another characteristic to consider is disease resistance. Many hybrid varieties have been bred to resist diseases that plague tomatoes. When shopping for tomatoes, you may notice that the plant label includes the letters V, F, N, T or A. This is a code that indicates whether the variety is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus or alternaria stem canker.  Keep in mind that resistance does not mean immunity. Home gardeners should still practice crop rotation and avoid planting tomatoes or other members of the nightshade family (Solanaceae) in the same location for more than two consecutive years. That family includes eggplants, potatoes, peppers and petunias.

The popular heirloom tomatoes offer a wide range of flavors, colors, textures and shapes. While heirlooms may not be as productive as hybrids and tend to be more susceptible to disease, many home gardeners appreciate their variety. What’s more, heirloom seeds can be saved and replanted, and they will yield the same variety the following year. In contrast, plants from hybrid seeds don’t retain all the traits of the parent plants. 

I generally grow a mix of heirlooms and hybrids so I have the best of both worlds.  One of my favorite cherry tomatoes is ‘Sungold,’ an indeterminate hybrid that produces small golden-orange fruits with a tangy, sweet flavor. It is extremely productive. For a color contrast, I grow ‘Green Grape,’ an heirloom that is green on the inside and chartreuse outside when ripe.  It is about the size of a large grape and has few seeds. It has a spicy sweet flavor and looks beautiful halved in salads.

‘Mamma Mia’ is my favorite variety for sauces, bruschetta and dried tomatoes. It’s the only variety that I grow in multiples because it is so versatile. It is meaty, ripens earlier than most plum tomatoes and lasts in my garden until the first frost.

For sheer beauty, I grow ‘Marvel Stripe’ every year. This indeterminate heirloom produces large multi-colored fruit with streaks of red, yellow and orange. It is a star in any caprese salad.

My best-tasting tomatoes are ‘Japanese Black Trifele’ and ‘Cherokee Purple.’  Both are indeterminate heirlooms with dark fruit and rich, complex flavor. ‘Cherokee Purple’ produces large tomatoes while the ‘Japanese Black Trifele’ is a medium-sized pear-shaped tomato.

Napa County Master Gardeners have compiled a list of 44 favorite tomatoes that grow well in the county.  For more information about these varieties, visit http://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/163307.pdf.  No matter which tomatoes you choose to grow this summer, you will be in heaven with the first bite.

Tomato Plant Sale: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting a tomato plant sale on Saturday, April 20, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Choose from 44 varieties that grow well in Napa County. Come early for best selection. Tomato experts will be on hand to answer  questions. Location: Oxbow Public Market, south parking lot, 644 First Street, Napa. Plan your purchases with this Quick Guide to Tomato Varieties.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?

This month there are some wonderful opportunities to learn about, buy and plant natives. Our wet winters and dry summers are features we share with Mediterranean countries, and Napa native plants have learned to adapt to these conditions.  

Many plants in the wild go dormant in the summer to conserve water, while others have leaves that deflect the summer heat to conserve what moisture they can glean. Native plants are diverse in type, from ground covers to tall trees. They are often water wise and deer resistant.   

Natives can attract pollinators, birds and butterflies; fill difficult areas of your yard; and bring interest, color and even edibles to your garden.

If you are thinking about replacing a thirsty lawn, consider replanting with native grasses or grass-like plants. Native grasses have much more extensive root systems than typical turf grasses, so they are able to dive deep for moisture and nutrients during Napa’s long dry summers.  

Grasses clean the air and sequester carbon deep in the soil. Deeply rooted grasses minimize erosion, soften the impact of rain water on soils and are part of the natural environment for native butterflies and birds.  

To learn more about these underappreciated natives, join Bob Hornback, aka “The Grassman,” on Wednesday, April 10, from 7 p.m.to 8:30 p.m. at the Social Hall at Skyline Park in Napa. This event is sponsored by the Native Plant Society. For more details, call 707-253-2665 or visit www.napavalleycnps.org.

Planting under deciduous oaks or in partial shade can be a challenge, but here, too, natives offer some surprising choices. Consider currants such as Ribes sanguineum, a red currant with a cotton candy-pink flower. I planted several of these currants last year, and they are blooming beautifully in my garden now. Ribes ‘White Icicle’ is a white-blossomed albino currant; R. speciosum (fuchsia-flowering gooseberry) is a gorgeous currant, four to five feet in height, with deep pink, fuschia-like blossoms in spring.

Currants can take full sun, although in hot areas they appreciate some afternoon relief. They do well in partial shade, and some can grow six feet tall. Plant them where they will have room to thrive. Jam and jelly makers: water carefully to maximize your harvest. A mature bush can produce six to ten pounds of fruit in a season. Black currants are generally sweeter, while red and white currants may require a tad more sugar to balance their tartness. All make wonderful preserves.

For spring color, U. C. Davis native plant expert Kendra Baumgartner suggests white, blue and yellow Douglas iris (Iris douglasiana). They are deer resistant and bring color to shadier areas. These tough perennials grow back each year from thick white roots. You can divide them every couple of years to brighten more of your garden or to share with friends. Douglas iris are drought resistant, too.

For hot, sunny areas, consider Mimulus cardinalis (red monkeyflower). Its bright red flowers attract hummingbirds, and it is drought resistant and care free.

To see these and other natives, mark your calendar for the California Native Plant Society’s spring plant sale on Saturday, April 13, and Sunday, April 14, at Skyline Park. Call 707-253-2665 for more details.  

When you arrive for the sale, stroll around the Martha Walker California Native Habitat Garden to see these beautiful plants in a garden setting. More than 200 native plants thrive in this special garden and are identified with markers. A walk through the Martha Walker Garden will give you an accurate picture of how large that small plant you just bought might grow.

Experts will be on hand to answer questions, and all proceeds go toward maintenance, improvements and educational programs in the park. Admission to both Skyline Park and the Martha Walker Garden is free during the sale.

Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will host a workshop on growing tomatoes on Saturday, April 13, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn about tomato varieties that work well in Napa County. Learn when and how to plant; how to stake, water and feed; and how to handle common tomato pests and diseases. Register through Yountville Parks and Recreation: Mail in or Walk in registration (cash or check only). For fee and additional workshop information, (707) 944-8712 or visit the web site.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?

I bet that if you are reading this column you have already eaten edible flowers. Artichokes, broccoli and cauliflower—all common California-grown vegetables—are actually immature flowers. Perhaps you have tasted nasturtiums, a spicy addition to salads, or a favorite cook has prepared stuffed squash blossoms for you.

Many common flowers are edible. Growing some in your vegetable patch can brighten your meals as well as your garden.

Many plants produce edible flowers. I discovered a comprehensive list on Colorado State University Extension's web site (www.ext.colostate.edu). A short list of edible flowers includes roses, daylilies, most perennial herb blossoms and chrysanthemums.  As these plants are not generally grown in the vegetable patch, I am going to suggest some easy-to-grow edible flowers that you can include among your vegetable.

Before eating any flower, be sure you know what it is. A number of common garden plants have toxic flowers that should not be eaten. When eating a flower for the first time, you may not know if you or your guests will have an allergic reaction to the new food. Introduce new flowers in small doses.

Note that a flower may be edible but not tasty. This is especially true of plants that have many varieties, such as roses. All rose petals are edible, but some taste better than others.

March is a great time to add cool-season flowers to the vegetable patch. Nasturtiums are annuals that grow best from seed and flourish in our spring weather. Sow them now in average soil; if the soil is too rich they won't bloom. Keep them well-watered. When the weather gets hot, they do better in some shade and may stop growing. Both leaves and flowers are edible. The types with variegated leaves are particularly attractive in salads.

Calendulas are also easy to start from seed and have done well in my garden with little attention.  Even during summer, some plants usually survive and bloom. Because this plant self-sows readily, I have had continuous plants in my garden for several years. Only the petals are edible. Use them as a confetti-like garnish for salads, frittatas and rice dishes.

Violas, pansies and Johnny-jump-ups are wonderful cool-weather edible flowers. They come in a large variety of colors and color combinations, and nurseries carry many types for transplanting in early spring. Plant them in moist, rich soil and partial shade. They will tolerate light frosts; I have had good luck growing them in winter.  When the weather gets hot they will fade away. Their flavor is mild, but they add great visual appeal to desserts and salads.

When the weather turns warm, try some flowers that can take the heat. Marigolds are edible but many do not taste very good. However, the Signet marigold (Tagetes signata), also known as Gem marigold, has tasty, citrus-flavored flowers. Some named varieties are ‘Lemon Gem,' ‘Tangerine Gem' and ‘Red Gem.'

You will likely need to start these marigolds from seed, as transplants are not always available. Start seeds now in a pot for transplanting in late April or May, or wait until the soil is warm and start them directly in the ground. The plant grows into a one-foot-tall mound covered with half-inch to one-inch flowers. Give it ordinary garden soil, full sun and adequate water, and it will bloom well into fall. I think the lemony flavor of the blossoms complements fish dishes, and I have used the flowers to garnish tomato platters and lemon cookies.

Another summer plant to try in the cooler parts of the Napa Valley is runner beans. A relative of snap beans, runner beans have much showier blossoms with a mild beany taste. Most varieties are vining types and should be grown on some kind of trellis. Plant from seed in full sun after the soil warms. The plants will produce flowers and beans in a couple of months. As long the temperatures stay in the 80s, they will thrive. Because of their crunchy texture, the blossoms are great to top soups and as a garnish for bean dishes.

Once you start using flowers in your food, don't be surprised if your guests start taking pictures. Your edible flowers will turn an ordinary dish into an extraordinarily beautiful one.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on top navigation - Garden Questions?