- Author: Barbara Kissinger Santos
My cold season garden is planted with plenty of broccoli and cauliflower. Last week I noticed holes chewed in the leaves. I looked underneath and sure enough, I have cabbage loopers. It's early in the season so only 3 leaves on 2 of my 12 plants are affected, but clearly if I want a decent crop, I'm going to need to be diligent.
What are cabbage loopers and cabbageworms?
Cabbage loopers are a caterpillar that feasts on Cole crops. Cole crops are a group of vegetables that include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, collards, and kale. Cabbage loopers are green, up to an inch and a half long, usually with a narrow white stripe on each side and narrow, pale lines down the back. They can be distinguished from other caterpillars that feed on cole crops, such as the imported cabbageworm, by their looping movement. They move by arching the middle portion of their body, pulling the rear end forward and then propelling the front end forward. Imported cabbageworms are smaller, have a hairier appearance and often have one faint yellow orange stripe down their backs.
The caterpillar form of the cabbage looper moth is mottled brown or gray color. These moths lay single eggs on the underside of older cole crop leaves. The caterpillars emerge to eat leaves, mostly mature foliage, and eventually spin a cocoon on the underside of mature leaves, in the crown of the plant or in debris on the ground. The moths emerge to repeat the life cycle. Imported cabbageworms are the caterpillar form of the imported cabbageworm butterfly, a white butterfly with one or more black spots on each wing. They have a similar lifecycle to cabbage loopers.
So What's the Problem?
Cabbage loopers and imported cabbageworms eat leaves and will bore holes in developing cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and lettuce damaging the fruit of cole crops and leaving their bodies and frass (or insect poop). Newly planted vegetable garden plants can disappear quickly if caterpillars aren't controlled.
How Do I Control Them?
You can prevent these pests from laying eggs by using floating row covers. If you can't do this, examine plants with leaf damage and pick off caterpillars before they do more damage. If you can't find the caterpillars, look for their frass. Stand still, looking slowly around at your plants, giving special attention to the undersides of the leaves.
If you do this diligently, it may be all you need to do. There may be natural enemies such as parasitic wasps or tachinid flies present in your garden to help reduce pest numbers. If these methods aren't sufficient, you can use a less toxic pesticide called BT or Bacillus thuringiensis. Although this product is organic, always follow directions regarding dosage, when to apply, and safety protocols. For more information visit the following UC IPM pages.
For more information, visit the following UC IPM webpages:
Cabbage loopers https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/loopers.html
Imported cabbageworm https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/importcabwrm.html
Parasites of insect pests https://ipm.ucanr.edu/QT/parasitesinsectcard.html
Barbara Kissinger Santos has been a UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Stanislaus County since 2024.
The holidays are nearly here, and we still have space left in our Nature's Wreath Workshop!
After the colorful autumn leaves fall, the landscape can seem bare due to plants dying back or going dormant. Despite that, much splendor can still be found in nature this time of year. Whether they are deciduous or evergreen, cold weather plants can provide many shapes, colors and textures such as pine cones, rose hips, moss, wooden roses, vines, acorns and dried berries, all of which can be used to make decorative materials.
To capitalize on nature's beauty, come create a holiday wreath for yourself or as a gift for family or friends. The base of the wreath is made from woven grapevines. In addition to nature-provided materials, embellishments such as ribbons and glitter will be available. In addition, this year you can also create a centerpiece on a wooden base, with or without a candle.
The Master Gardeners invite you to join us in creating your own holiday décor using natural materials. Your creations can be as simple or elaborate as you wish. All items will be provided. You just need to bring your imagination to inspire creativity! Invite friends and family to join the fun.
Date: Saturday, November 23
Time: 9:30 am – 12 noon
Location: Stanislaus Agriculture Center, 3800 Cornucopia Way, Harvest Hall Rooms A,B,&C
Fee: $40/person (online payment only)
Link to register: https://ucanr.edu/natures/wreath/2024
Questions? Call (209) 525-6800
Note: space is limited, walk-ins may not be accepted.
The funds raised at this workshop help our program grow. Thanks for your support!
- Author: Denise Godbout-Avant
Spiders usually prefer to hide, however, we often become aware of their presence due to their webs. Spiders who make webs generally do so to catch prey.
Spider Web Material
Spider webs are among the most incredible feats of engineering in nature. Made of silk, they are highly flexible, extremely stretchable, and unbelievably strong, being five times as strong as steel.
The silk is produced from spinneret glands located at the tip of their abdomen. Different species have different numbers of spinnerets, ranging from two to eight. There are different glands to produce threads for specific purposes – for example, a safety line, sticky silk for trapping prey, or fine silk for wrapping their prey. There are seven different silk glands, but no species has all seven.
Variety of Webs
Many spiders are classified by the webs they weave. Here are five common types of webs you may see around your home or garden:
Orb Web – A common, recognizable and often symmetrical web. Primarily associated with the family Araneidae, they are generally known as orb-weavers. Found chiefly outside, orb webs are comprised of a strong external framework which is joined in the center to create spokes. The spokes are linked together with concentric, sticky elastic thread to create a large surface area for capturing prey. Orb spiders have five different silk glands, the most of any group. The spider rests at the center or edge of the web. Since they have poor eyesight, they depend on vibrations to locate prey that has become entangled. The webs are constructed in areas with significant flying insect traffic and can capture upwards of 250 insects per day! There are about 200 species in North America, who are generally non-aggressive. A local example is the Western spotted orb weaver (Neoscona oaxacensis).
Tangle Web/Cobweb – These are often in areas that see little traffic. These disorganized webs tend to collect a lot of dust and dirt, adding to their messy appearance. Generally anchored to the top of a structure with many threads hanging downward, there are sticky droplets at the end of the hanging strings at floor level. When an insect walks across the thread it is concurrently stuck and lifted into the web by a tightening thread to be consumed by the spider. Tangle webs are predominately made by harmless house spiders in the Theriidae family. The Western black widow (Latrodestus hesperus)is an infamous venomous exception.
Funnel Weaver – As the term suggests, this web is shaped
like a funnel. The threads span over a range of distances, meeting in the middle where they form a trampoline-like tubular hole. Insects walk across the mat-like web, getting tangled up. When it senses a vibration the funnel weaver spider rushes out of its concealed hole and quickly subdues its quarry. Often called grass spiders, they are members of the Agelenidae family, funnel weavers can be inside or outside.
Sheet Web – These hammock-like webs are draped over grass, bushes and other structures, with some being very flat over grass and others are dome-shaped. The spider hangs upside down on the web and ambushes any insects that walk below. Flying insects can also hit the threads and drop down to the spider. Unlike most web structures, when these webs are damaged, they are quickly patched up by the spider, so they tend to be permanent constructions. Sheet web spiders are from the Linyphiidae family, which is the largest family of web spinning spiders. Also known as dwarf spiders, most are extremely small and are seldom seen, posing little threat to humans.
Some Other Uses for Spider Silk
Even spiders who do not make webs to catch prey will create silk. Some examples of other uses:
Reproduction: Mature males make sperm webs to move sperm to their copulatory organs, for transfer to female just prior to mating. These are constructed and destroyed quickly. Females make egg sac webs to wrap their fertilized eggs (which can range from two to 1,000 per sac).
Molting Mat - Predominantly created by tarantulas, these thick mats are laid on the ground where the tarantula flips onto its back to molt its exoskeleton which has become too small for its growing body.
Drag Line – Most people have seen a spider hanging down from a drag line. A safety anchor, it prevents a spider from falling too far, allowing it to drag itself up to the previous position. 
Ballooning – A means of mass distribution of spiderlings and small adults. After climbing to a relatively high spot, the spider points its abdomen upwards and pulls out one to several threads. Air or electrostatic currents carry the threads skywards with the spider attached, transporting it long distances. Fall is a prime time for spider ballooning since many species hatch in large numbers this time of year.
Protect and Appreciate These Master Weavers
Many people are afraid of spiders, despite the fact most are harmless and avoid humans. They are vital beneficial creatures due to their role as predators of insects and other arthropods. Using pesticides as a means of controlling spiders is generally ineffective unless you see the spider and directly spray it. Better methods of control are reducing places for them to hide. See UC IPM Quick Tips publication, Common Garden Spiders at https://ipm.ucanr.edu/legacy_assets/PDF/QT/qtcommongardenspiders.pdf
Halloween and Spider Webs
It is recommended not to decorate your yards during Halloween with artificial spider webs. Beneficial insects such as bees, praying mantis, and even small birds like hummingbirds, can become trapped in them.
Denise Godbout-Avant has been a UC Master Gardener in Stanislaus County since 2020
References and Resources
Widow Spiders and their Relatives, UC IPM
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74149.html
Spiders, UC IPM https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7442.html
Wikimedia photo attribution - by Stephen Michael Barnett - https://www.flickr.com/photos/httpwwwflickrcomphotostopend/507502408/in/photolist-8ToHtF-fVRNmy-4YTxhz-oQNEFP-apnXxR-5rgDrW-gCS4ex-btgaVP-LR5Mw-KZm9V-awHMdi-KZm8R-KZm92-ogLQj7-oiNCYK-o2jekP-o2kgpK-Vk7K6-bwZcC1-9wi3ax/, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37513886
Some of the pleasures of summer and fall include biting into a moist, fresh piece of fruit, or eating a warm, baked pastry filled with juicy fruit. Adding to the enjoyment would be if the fruit came from a tree in your garden.
Fruit trees are popular in Central Valley home gardens since we have the perfect temperate climate many varieties thrive in. Autumn is the best time of year to plant bare-root fruit trees (dormant deciduous trees with no leaves that are not in pots). However, growing fruit trees can be a challenge and sometimes takes years of learning, hands-on experience and trial and error.
Stanislaus County Library Talks
The UC Cooperative Extension Stanislaus County Master Gardeners' November library talk topic on “Backyard Orchard Fruit Trees” is a perfect way to gain information on how to grow fruit trees. Topics covered include which type and size tree(s) to choose (“right tree for the right spot”), how to plant, irrigation, training your tree by pruning, thinning, maintenance, potential issues (including where to get help), terms such as scion, rootstock, self-fruitful trees vs. self-unfruitful trees, and some of the many possible varieties of fruit trees available. (Note: this talk will not cover citrus trees, that talk will be given in January).
Whether you are growing fruit trees now, have done so in the past, or want to plant a fruit tree for the first time, come to a Master Gardeners talk that will be chock-full of information to learn about the best ways to grow fruit trees. Eventually, you will literally be able to enjoy the fruit of your labors!
- Author: Martha J. Martin
Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, amaryllis, ornamental onion, snowdrops and lilies are all true bulbs. Plants that grow from bulblike organs are corms, tubers, rhizomes, and tuberous roots.
Some bulbs reproduce by a process called annual replacement. In tulips or ornamental onions, the old bulb dies (mother bulb) after flowering and is replaced by new bulbs of varying sizes. If conditions are right, the largest of these will flower the following season. Others bloom in subsequent years. In offsets, the mother bulb grows for two-three years and new bulbs, offsets, are produced alongside the mother bulb and can be removed and planted elsewhere.
Choosing a healthy bulb requires attention to appearance, size and timing. Choose ones that are large, heavy for their size, firm, free of bruises, soft spots, molds, or cuts. Big bulbs like tulips and hyacinth produce larger flowers on taller thicker stems. The largest roots will give you more flowers. If patience is your virtue, purchase smaller ones, which are less costly, and wait a year or two while they mature if planting in the ground.
Each species of bulbs has their own characteristics, heft and feel. Many bulbs are labeled "top size" which means they are the largest commercially available in size. Most bulbs are measured in centimeters (tulips are measured about four 1/2 inches around). When you want top size hybrid bulbs for a smaller setting that is fine. When you want large number of bulbs for naturalizing in a landscape, buy smaller sizes.
Outdoor containers also expand our need for visual beauty and increase our spatial ability. The creative urge accentuates when contemplating the selection of an outdoor container. For best bulb displays, be aware of the following characteristics. Size: choose large deep containers to accommodate your bulbs at the proper planting depth with room to grow. Porosity: containers made of insulating materials; paint clay pots with breathable latex sealant and place thin-walled containers within insulated, decorative ceramic pots to reduce deposited mineral salts. Drainage: To avoid fungal disease, choose those with drain holes or drill them yourself.
The following steps will ensure optimum fertility and soil quality when planting bulbs in a landscape setting. Turn over the soil by breaking any clods removing rocks, roots or debris. Cultivate 12-16 inches deep. Next rake layers of organic compost to cover each bed 2-3 inches. Work the compost into the bed's soil with a shovel until evenly mixed.
Add 4 inches of compost to soil and mix thoroughly. The ideal soil pH for most bulbs is 6.0-6.5. Soils in Stanislaus County average between 7 and 8, so it is helpful to fertilize with a bulb fertilizer to get them off to a good start. The major nutrients plants need are nitrogen, (N) for chlorophyll for the leaves and stems; phosphorous (P) for root development, and potassium (K) or potash for the plant's general vigor. Although bulbs do not require immediate fertilization afterplanting, it's a good time to add it so you don't forget later. Fertilize spring bulbs each fall. Spring flowering bulbs do not benefit from fertilizer during or after blooming. Some experts contend that an all-purpose fertilizer on summer flowering bulbs, when their foliage appears and blooming and then once monthly until the plants are in full bloom, is needed. High nitrogen fertilizer applied immediately after planting may promote fungal diseases. Some bulbs, belladonna lilies and autumn crocus, bloom after foliage has died. Fertilize them while their foliage is green, not while blooming.
Note the planting depth for the bulb species. To be safe, bulbs should be planted 5-8 inches deep measuring from their base. Add 10-10-5 fertilizer and cover with 2 inches of soil. Turn the pointed end of the bulb up and roots and plate down. Plant in its hole. It is fine to plant some bulbs close together like tulips. If you want them to multiply, leave space at least two or three times the bulbs' width. Some need more room like allium bulbs at 13 inches apart. When planting several large bulbs close together, dig one large hole. Backfill over each bulb with amended soil to the proper planting depth. For large areas, it is best to amend the soil when it is prepared for planting.
Check your final planting arrangement after all bulbs have been planted. Relocate bulbs to fill any space or skipped spots. Finally fill the hole with soil gently pressing it over each bulb to ensure good soil contact and eliminate any air pockets.
One cannot forget watering after all this work. Natural rains may suffice for late autumn through spring. After that period, watch the temperature projections and adjust accordingly. Regular watering is required during active growth, usually weekly, dependent on rain showers. For most species, the soil should remain evenly damp or moist. As a dry spell occurs, water overhead evenly. Place plastic cups around plantings to gauge the amount to apply. Test cups should have filled with an inch of water. Dig down about 6 inches with a hand trowel to see if water has penetrated that far.
Work compost into the soil around plantings every year to improve soil structure. Mulching around bulbs helps regulate soil temperature, retains moisture, and hinders weeds. Use organic mulches such as wood chips, fine ground bark, compost, or cocoa hulls. Apply before bulb sprouts appear. Dump and rake mulch, keeping it 4-6 inches from trunks or stems.
Planting singular bulbs is ideal for planting small areas or for as many as thirty bulbs. This allows for a rippling drift in a naturalized garden or for bulb accents in borders. Whether you desire a formal, informal or naturalized garden, mixed plantings are recommended.
For a formal bed, use the same layering technique as used for containers. Excavate the planting hole and plant layers of bulbs. Having plotted your schematic, mark the patterns to be used. Plant the first layer of bulbs, space evenly changing colors between areas, cover the second layer of bulbs until the final top layer.
Voila! Naturalized plantings are stunning, colorful and uniquely creative. They reflect who we are. Whether container gardening, using formal beds or landscape planting, we await the glorious outcome!
Martha J. Martin has been a UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Stanislaus County since 2020.
Photos by Anne Schellman, Program Coordinator.
References
Black and Decker Outdoor Home Landscaping with Bulbs 2002, multiple contributors
Ortho's All About Bulbs, multiple contributors 1999
Bulbs for All Seasons, Firefly Books, Pierre Gingras 2001
Sunset Bulbs, multiple contributors, 1st ed. 1998
