Growing Tree Fruit at Home in the Eastern Sierra

By Rick Delmas
Retired Inyo-Mono Farm Advisor

In general, growing fruit requires adequate water, suitable soil, and an appropriate climate. The Eastern Sierra has long, warm summer days, cool nights, and a relatively dry growing season, which is beneficial for producing excellent fruit.

The main factor that inhibits fruit production on the east side of the Sierra is frost, which commonly occurs during early spring. Most fruit trees need at least 150 consecutive frost-free days, defined as the period between the last killing frost in spring (28°F) and the first killing frost in fall.

The frost-free period must begin early enough to protect blossoms and extend late enough for fruit to mature and for trees to acclimate to winter. In the Eastern Sierra, warm late-winter or early-spring periods often trigger dormancy break, followed by late freezes associated with spring storms. These late freezes frequently damage blossoms or young fruit. Depending on location, aspect, and microclimate, fruit production may be reduced three out of five years.

Planting Plan

Before purchasing or planting fruit trees, carefully evaluate the planting site. Fruit trees perform best in full sunlight and well-drained soil. Ideal soil conditions include fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam at least four feet deep.

Trees can be grown on poorer soils, but this requires more intensive management. Trees planted in partial shade may grow but will produce little fruit. Frost damage is more likely in low-lying areas where cold air settles. Planting on higher ground or gentle slopes (5–10 percent) helps blossoms escape spring frosts. Avoid windswept hilltops.

If your planting site is in a frost pocket, avoid early-blooming fruit trees such as apricots, plums, peaches, and nectarines.

Tree Size and Space Considerations

Standard apple or cherry trees can reach 40 feet tall and 30–40 feet wide, which is too large for many home gardens. Alternatives include:

• Semi-dwarf trees, reaching one-half to three-quarters of standard size

• Dwarf trees, typically 5–10 feet tall

• Genetic dwarf varieties, naturally small (4–10 feet tall), well suited for containers

Another option is multi-variety trees, which have three to five compatible varieties grafted onto a single trunk and rootstock.

Tree Hardiness

Hardiness refers to a tree’s ability to survive winter cold. In the Eastern Sierra, trees must tolerate temperatures ranging from 10°F to –20°F, depending on elevation, aspect, and location. While winters do not reach these lows every year, they do periodically, and trees must survive these events.

In general:

• Apples, sour cherries, and hardy hybrid plums tolerate temperatures to –30°F

• Pears, sweet cherries, and European or Japanese plums tolerate –20°F

• Peaches and apricots may be injured below 15°F if cold persists

• Citrus trees are damaged below 32°F

Microclimates can sometimes allow trees to be grown beyond their typical hardiness range.

As buds swell in spring, trees become less cold-hardy. For example, peach buds showing pink can survive 25°F, but full bloom can be damaged at 27°F, and young fruit may be injured at 30°F.

To assess frost damage, cut shoots after a cold event and place them in water indoors. If the flower center (pistil) turns brown, it is damaged. Only 7–10 percent of blossoms are needed for a full crop.

Pollination

Many fruit trees require cross-pollination for good fruit set. In areas with few nearby fruit trees, check pollination requirements before planting. If cross-pollination is required, you may graft a pollinizer branch rather than planting a second tree. Nurseries can confirm whether a variety is self-fruitful or requires a pollinizer.

Pest Control

Pest control is essential for producing quality fruit. Apples and cherries, in particular, may require four to six sprays per year. For this reason, fruit trees should not be planted near children’s play areas or vegetable gardens. A dedicated fruit tree area is easier to manage and safer.

Fertilization

Newly planted trees usually do not require fertilizer. Dry fertilizers and manure can burn young roots due to high salt content. A water-soluble transplant solution may be used after planting, but it is optional.

Nitrogen is the nutrient most commonly needed. Nitrogen deficiency appears as light green or yellowish leaves and reduced shoot growth. Peach and nectarine trees growing less than 12–18 inches per year may need nitrogen.

Apply ¼ pound of actual nitrogen per year of tree age, up to a maximum of 1 pound per tree. Scatter fertilizer under the canopy and slightly beyond the drip line, keeping it at least 8 inches from the trunk. Fertilize from late fall through early spring, and water thoroughly.

Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can reduce fruit set, delay ripening, reduce fruit quality, and increase winter injury risk if applied after mid-July.

Irrigation

Regular irrigation is essential for tree fruit production in the Eastern Sierra. Uniform soil moisture supports tree vigor, fruit size, and productivity. Proper watering is especially critical during the first year after planting.

Irrigate from spring growth through late September or early October. During extremely dry falls, irrigate occasionally when the soil is not frozen.

Avoid frequent shallow watering. This encourages shallow roots and increases the risk of wood rot. Instead, irrigate deeply every 7–17 days, depending on weather, soil type, and season. Dwarfing rootstocks often benefit from shorter intervals.

Drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or slow hose trickles provide deep watering without waterlogging. Most roots are located in the upper two feet of soil, extending slightly beyond the canopy.

Basins around trees can help with summer irrigation. In fall, level soil around the trunk to prevent water from pooling and freezing.

Mulching

Mulches such as shredded bark, straw, grass clippings, or sawdust conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and reduce weeds. Apply mulch 3–4 inches deep, keeping it several inches away from the trunk.

Remove mulch in early fall to encourage trees to harden off for winter and to reduce rodent damage.

Fruit Thinning

Under favorable conditions, trees may set too much fruit. Overcropping weakens trees, reduces fruit size, lowers quality, and decreases next year’s crop.

Thin fruit when it reaches ¾ to 1 inch in diameter. Remove damaged fruit first. Frost danger should have passed, and natural drop (June drop) should be complete.

Thin more heavily near branch tips and less near the base to prevent breakage. A practical rule for peaches, nectarines, apples, and pears is to space fruit about the width of an open hand (approximately 6 inches) along each branch.

Thinning Recommendations (Average Spacing)

Bibliography

• Strand, L. L., and Flint, M. L. Integrated Pest Management for Stone Fruits. University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3389, 1999.

• Ohlendorf, B., and Flint, M. L. Integrated Pest Management for Apples & Pears. University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3340, 1999.

• Fitzgerald, T. J., Ophardt, M., Van Denburgh, R., and Watson, J. Growing Tree Fruit at Home in Eastern Washington. Washington State University Cooperative Extension Publication EB0932, 2001.

University of California Cooperative Extension – Inyo & Mono Counties.
Weekend Farmer Fact Sheet #2-03 (February 2003). Compiled by Rick Delmas.