Forcing a bulb, tricking it into blooming without a cold period is popular during the winter as it will produce blooming flowers indoors during winter. Paperwhites, (Narcissus papyraceus) with their delicate white and fragrant flowers, are native to the Mediterranean regions and do not need chilling to stimulate bloom and will easily bloom indoors with the right conditions. However, after blooming, what to do with the bulb? Many discard the plant into the compost, yet if you want to take a chance, and are patient, there is a way to produce blooms once again in your garden.

The bulbs of paperwhites forced indoors and planted in soil, can be re-used if planted outdoors in USDA Zones 8-11. For the plant to flower again, the bulb needs time to restore the nutrients that support growth, Once the blossoms have died, trim off the flowering stalks but not the leaves. The leaves are essential for helping the plant to send nutrients that it will need back to the bulb. Do not cut the leaves. If the foliage is allowed to grow until it turns yellow and dies back, the bulb may store enough energy for reblooming. You can aid the process by giving the plant some bloom fertilizer when it is actively growing.

Once the leaves have completely withered and the temperature and ground are suitable for spring planting, plant the bulbs 6 inches deep in soil that has been amended with 1 inch of compost and 2 tablespoons of super phosphate. Water regularly during the growing season and allow it to dry out slightly during the winter. Come spring, the plant should bloom again. If not, continue to care for it. With adequate moisture and sunlight, it should bloom the next spring.

It's that time of year when Seville oranges, Citrus aurantium, can be found at local farmers markets, grocery stores, and in neighbors' backyards. But buyer beware, for these citrus treasures are not meant for casual snacking! Unlike their sweeter counterparts, Seville oranges require a few steps before being enjoyed but are well worth the effort.

Seville oranges are remarkably bitter, but their peels pack a super citrus punch and are prized for their fragrance and flavor. They're excellent when candied, and the juice can be used to replace lemon in savory dressings and sauces. The seeds and pith are high in pectin but don't taste like citrus and so can be used to thicken all sorts of jellies and jams. Perhaps the most popular way to use Seville oranges though, and my favorite, is for marmalade.

As I write, the house is filled with a bright citrus scent from the oranges we sliced and simmered today. With only 8 oranges, (about 3 lbs.), a few lemons and sugar, we canned 5 pints of delicious marmalade. There is nothing like homemade marmalade from fresh, local oranges to add a burst of citrusy flavor to morning toast or scones. It's also great in cakes, tarts, and as a filling for pastries. Preserved marmalade also makes a lovely, homemade gift.

So, keep an eye out for the Seville oranges this season! As Paddington, the famous bear with a penchant for marmalade, would agree, there's something truly special about the process of turning these humble oranges into a delightful spread.

Here's a recipe you can try from the National Center for Home Food Preservation:https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/make-jam-jelly/marmalades/orange-marmalade/

photos by Joy Humphrey

On a stormy day, I find nothing more cheering than looking out at my garden through a rain spattered window and seeing the colorful splash of a pot of primroses (Primula). When many other plants are wrapped in their blankets of dormancy, primroses offer up their astonishing colors for a delightful visual impact. Known as one of the first blooming plants of spring (Primula means “little first one”), there are over 450 species of primrose. Many are wild and can be found growing anywhere from craggy alpine locales to shady woodland paths, returning early every year to herald the new season. But the primroses we commonly find in our nurseries and garden centers are hybrids that are treated as annuals, particularly in areas like Yolo County where the summers are hot and dry.

Primroses are hardy and unfussy. These cool season plants grow best in partial sun or shade, and they like moist, well-drained soil. They thrive in containers as well as the landscape and can even live life as a temporary houseplant provided they have temperatures on the cooler side. Make sure to remove the spent blooms to encourage new growth.  And keep an eye out for slugs and snails as they seem to like these jewel-toned beauties as much as we do.

Don't hesitate to give primroses a try. Whether you saturate a shady spot with a monochrome planting, trick out a container with a rainbow selection, or choose one 4-inch pot to grace a windowsill, it's hard to get it wrong with these showy flowers.

Although Master Gardeners know better, many people focus on summer gardening, especially of tomatoes in Yolo County. However, I find my winter garden at least as useful as my summer one. This is partly because of how I approach it.

My vegetable garden is in raised beds, with one foot redwood sides. Four 4-foot square beds are at the center. These are surrounded by longer, 2 foot wide beds which have perennial edibles in them: an asparagus bed, an artichoke bed, a rhubarb bed, and some herbs (oregano, thyme, chives, sage, and rosemary). These beds require very little work, and allow me to focus my attention on my intensively managed annual vegetables.

Contrary to seed packet instructions, my goal for my winter garden is to plant for daily use, rather than to have a large crop at one time. I also plant for biodiversity. Here is what is in my four beds in mid-February. One bed is non-hybrid Swiss chard, planted from seeds I saved. I pick leaves so I can use my chard plants for months.

A second bed has three crops: beets, carrots (from saved seed) and snap peas, staked. The carrot seeds were broadcast and came up thick. I thin them by eating baby carrots.

A third bed has curly kale planted in a grid with leeks in between. I just planted new kale starts between the existing kale plants.  Half of the bed has romaine and red lettuce which were broadcast. New lettuce seeds are added as heads of lettuce are eaten.

Finally, the fourth bed has broccoli, planted close together. I harvest the heads, then pick the side shoots for months. This small garden feeds me and my guests every day.