Garden Grown Vegetables
UC Marin Master Gardeners

What Edible Gardens Need

What Does an Edible Garden Need? 

Growing a successful edible garden takes planning, correct timing, and a little know-how. But once you have it down it is such a pleasure to eat homegrown produce fresh from the garden. Here's what you need to get started.

Priscilla du Preez, Unsplash
Priscilla du Preez, Unsplash

Plenty of sun

Choose a site with a minimum of six hours of full sun -- eight to ten hours is even better. Southern exposure is ideal. Most edible plants prefer full sun; however, root and leafy crops can tolerate light shade. 
 

Climate that's a good fit for what you're growing

Know your ->climate zone 
Assess your ->microclimate
Be aware of frost dates

Most edibles prefer to be grown during frost-free periods, which vary within Marin’s many microclimates. For a rule of thumb, begin watching for frost around Thanksgiving and consider planting frost sensitive edibles after St. Patrick’s Day. (These dates are derived from 30 years of historical data from the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration). Many cool season crops may be planted before the end of winter frost, including beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, chard and kale. Check seed packets for instructions. 

Rich soil 

Rich soil is a necessity in a vegetable garden. Photo: Gael Perrin
Rich soil is a necessity in a vegetable garden. Photo: Gael Perrin

Edible crops prefer fertile, loamy soil that drains well and holds water on hot days. 

A layer of mulch  

Use mulch to protect against moisture loss, suppress weeds, and keep plant roots cool in hot weather. Learn more.
 

Easy access to water 

Be sure there is an easily accessible faucet and hose near the edible garden. Photo: pxhere
Be sure there is an easily accessible faucet and hose near the edible garden. Photo: pxhere

Be sure a nearby faucet and hose is easily accessible. Use a ->drip irrigation system if possible. 


Ample air flow but not too windy  

Choose a site that has air movement but not high winds.
 

Level topography 

A level garden is the easiest to prepare, plant, irrigate, maintain and harvest. On slopes, consider constructing level terraces or raised beds so that water does not pool or run off. Many edibles can be grown successfully in containers. 
 

Adequate drainage  

Avoid low areas where water may pool or where ground water stands. Poorly drained soils may create anaerobic soil conditions with inadequate air (evidence: stinky soil). Look for moving surface water and correct if possible (evidence: erosion, exposed tree roots, channels in soil). Redirect drainage as necessary. 

Easy access 

A conveniently located edible garden encourages frequent visits for care and enjoyment.  

A well thought out location

Mitigate any potential problems before you plant. Raised beds solve many problems.
Identify limitations above ground: wires, structures, street lamps, trees and structures  that cast shade, eaves, setbacks, and easements.
• Identify limitations below ground: utilities, plumbing, roots, bedrock, groundwater, etc. 
 

Crops growing at the correct time

A planting calendar is a vegetable gardener's best friend. 
 

Safe food growing and handling

Use best practices to ensure your crops are as safe as they are delicious.  


> Visit our Edible Demonstration Garden at IVC Organic Farm & Garden in Novato!

Primary Image
Seed potatoes are nestled into the straw at planting time. Photo: Marty Nelson
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

May 2022: No Digging Needed to Grow Potatoes

May 24, 2022
Growing potatoes in straw may seem like a crazy idea but the success of this method in the Edible Demonstration Garden suggests that this no-dig approach could be an option for home gardeners. It can be especially appealing when working with rocky clay soil...
View Article
Primary Image
Chicken wire is wrapped around the straw bales to hold them together and keep out gophers. Raoul Stepakoff
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

April 2022: Ready, Set, Spring Forward!

March 24, 2022
With the onset of spring, the pace of activity in the Edible Demonstration Garden has picked up. Its time for planning the edibles to grow this spring and summer, preparing the garden beds, and sowing the seeds...
View Article
Primary Image
Choose low chill hour varieties for Marin. Brenda Dawson
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

March 2022: Growing Blueberries

March 1, 2022
Blueberries are the focus of the newest demo garden project. Blueberries grow on long-lived and attractive shrubs and are both delicious and nutritious. They can be an ideal addition to an edible garden or to a home landscape if their growing conditions are met.
View Article
Primary Image
Planting a bare root tree. Photo by Joan Kozlowski
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

February 2022: Getting Bare Root Fruit Trees Off to a Good Start

January 31, 2022
The addition of new fruit trees added excitement to an otherwise routine month of garden maintenance. An enthusiastic group of Master Gardeners planted six organically sourced fruit trees along the garden perimeter in line with the existing plum and pear trees...
View Article
Primary Image
Christian Koepke, Unsplash
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

January 2022: Choosing Bare Root Fruit Trees

December 29, 2021
December was a slow time in the garden. We added a few plants like leeks and arugula but our workdays were limited due to the regular rain that came through our county. No one is complaining though since our drought conditions have eased somewhat....
View Article
Primary Image
UC Marin Master Gardener Stephanie Scarpullo gathering composted straw from our straw bales. L Stiles
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

December 2021: Composting & Testing Your Soil

December 2, 2021
November and December are clean up times in the garden, as well as assessing the state of our garden after growing all of those heavy feeder summer vegetables...
View Article
Primary Image
Charlotte Harrison, Unsplash
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

November 2021: Integrating Native Plants in Your Edible Garden

October 29, 2021
In October the EDG team, with inspiration and planning by members of the MMG Native Plant Guild, added a native plant area to our edibles garden. This small garden was installed around a vernal pool that is at the back of our garden.
View Article
Primary Image
Zoe Schaeffer, Unsplash
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

October 2021: Seedling Transplanting Tips

October 21, 2021
At the Edible Demonstration Garden this month, we have been following best practices for seeding our winter garden plants in the greenhouse. These practices were outlined in last months article. This month, we will begin moving some of these seedlings into the garden.
View Article

September 2021: Growing Your Own Plant Starts

Primary Image
Seeds germinating
Body

stella-de-smit-Nt974ZIgqgo-unsplash
The end of the summer is approaching and some of our plants are producing heavy harvests, particularly our summer squash, which are growing in straw bales.  (See our new YouTube video on Straw Bale Gardening.)  We have also cleared some beds and planning has begun for our fall/winter garden.  Some of these plants will be directly seeded into the garden, while others we will start in the farm’s greenhouse.  A planting calendar gives us the information needed to decide when and how to germinate seeds.  (Link to our planting calendar for vegetables and one for herbs.

Growing Your Own Plant Starts

Even with access to a greenhouse, our team is not always successful at producing the number of plant starts that we want.  So, we are paying extra attention to the most important factors that affect germination: sufficient light and warmth, seeding mix composition that provides enough oxygen, and careful watering without disturbing delicate seeds and seedlings. 

 

Ideal Light and Temperature Conditions for Germination

Seeds germinating
Light:  Light and temperature are important not only after sprouting, but also for some plants like lettuce that need light to stimulate germination.  When planting lettuce, lay the seeds on top of the germinating medium and then cover with a thin layer of fine peat moss or vermiculite so that light can reach the seeds.  Most other summer growing annuals do not need light for germination but many flowers do.

After germination, your plant will need to be moved to a bright, airy location.  A window facing south could provide adequate light although the more fail-safe solution is to use grow lights for about 12-16 hours per day. 

Temperature:  The ideal temperature for seeds to germinate is 65°F-75°F.  If your house is cold, particularly at night, a warming mat may be needed.  However, many gardeners find the top of the refrigerator is perfect for this purpose.

 

Seed Starter Mix

The ideal seed starter mix is fine and uniform in texture, well-aerated and loose, free of insects, disease organisms, and weeds, and able to hold moisture and drain well. The farm uses a mixture of about two parts aged compost, one part peat moss, and a one part mixture of perlite and vermiculite.  The peat moss and compost are sifted to get a finer medium.  Also, fertilizers like kelp meal and bone meal are added because once seeds germinate, they require feeding in order to grow well. 

If making your own seed starting mix is too much work for you, then there are commercial seed mixes that you can purchase.  Be sure to check the ingredients to determine if fertilizers have been added.  If not, you will need to regularly apply a half-strength solution of a fertilizer like fish emulsion or a liquid fertilizer for houseplants once seedlings emerge. 

 

Steps for Planting your Seeds
  • Crush any lumps in your mix and then moisten until it feels like a wrung-out sponge. 
  • Fill washed and sterilized (one part bleach to nine parts water) containers to three-fourths of an inch from the top. 
  • Firm mix at the corners and edges so there is a uniform surface.
  • Plant two-three seeds in each unit according to the depth indicated on the seed packet. If no seed packet is available, use the rule of thumb to plant to a depth that is two-four times the diameter of the seed.  
  • After seeds are sown, water using a fine mist spray for small seeds and for larger seeds, use a gentle trickle of water on the surface of the container.  Cover your container loosely (not airtight) with either plastic or a glass sheet.  No further water is needed until seeds have sprouted.
  • Remove cover when first seedlings appear. Lightly water and move your container to the brightest, airy spot you have. 
  • Begin watering regularly when the mix on top feels dry.    
  • Fertilize every other week if your seeding mix does not contain fertilizer.
  • If more than one seed germinates, thin the weaker ones by using scissors to cut the stems.

 

Stay tuned for next month when we will answer this question:  After you have your starts, what is the process for getting them into your garden?

 

UC Marin Master Gardeners
Primary Image
planting tomatoes
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Article

August 2021: Growing Tomatoes and Physiological Problems

August 22, 2021
What are those brown areas on the tomatoes and whats causing the plants leaves to roll up? Often the cause is physiological, which is a fancy way of saying the symptoms are caused by environmental stresses and not by pests or disease.
View Article